Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Some track laid temporarily so I can mark where the holes are required for the dropper wires. Once taken up and the afore mentioned holes drilled then the track base area can be painted and the track put back down. Hopefully I will have the basic oval completed within a week or so depending on other jobs the domestic authorities hand out. Until all the base level track is in place I will not be finalising the upper terminus as I may be able to re-position it slightly. I have slightly shortened an uncoupling rail to place it closer to the entrance and also cut the ramp in half so there is not too much available for uncoupling when not needed. Garry 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roythebus Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Many years ago a pal bought a collection of TT locos from another pal. there were some very interesting conversions making the jinty look like GW pannier tanks, an 0-4-2T and the like. i don't know what he done with collection. I must ask him as he went on to marry my cousin. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 (edited) Many years ago a pal bought a collection of TT locos from another pal. there were some very interesting conversions making the jinty look like GW pannier tanks, an 0-4-2T and the like. i don't know what he done with collection. I must ask him as he went on to marry my cousin.It would be interesting to see some of those conversions if you get a chance one day and obviously if they are still around. Garry Edited November 26, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
APOLLO Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Garry, what is the overall length & width of your board shown above ? Brit15. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 (edited) Garry, what is the overall length & width of your board shown above ? Brit15. 4'9" x 2'6" I made it slightly bigger than the original 4 x 2 as I think that was too tight for the incline track and reverse curve although Mike Bryant used flexi track I still thought it was too small. I also want to put some scenery on and have a little more operating potential. Garry Edited November 26, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Here we have the holes drilled for the individual track wires and then our little girl helping paint the "ballast". This is to give a ballast edge to match the track base, hopefully wide enough so the scenery will reach onto it. I imagine only a small area will show at the side of the track as grass, platforms etc will cover the rest. A second coat might be needed but I am only using one of the tester pots from Wilko's as I do not need a large tin. Garry 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 We have started laying the track as a fixed item now and here it is under test. Tri-ang in there wisdom seemed to use two different rail profiles (Dublo did this too) which have needed to be treated with a file to match up to the adjoining rail. One profile has a rounded top and slightly lower in height, the other is a wider flat top and taller. The rear part has not been sorted yet as I need to cut some more shorter rails. One photo shows the wiring under the pointwork which I thing may need a screw in the centre somewhere as there is a slight rise between them. No derailments but a noticeable "jump". The uncoupler shows how it has been shortened. How many times have you tried to couple up only to send another wagon on the ramp due to it's length. It seems to work okay so I will try another, and to get a neater top now I know what to do. There is no platform on the main line but the siding one will be long enough to leave a couple of coaches in while a goods van or two can be collected and added. The two DMU's are recent acquisitions which run quite nicely even though the advert for one said not a good runner, the two car unit will need the roofs painting though but will end up as a matching pair afterwards. I will have to stop buying these as I have another on its way but even though I am a steam man the DMU is a lovely model and runner. Garry 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whart57 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Many years ago a pal bought a collection of TT locos from another pal. there were some very interesting conversions making the jinty look like GW pannier tanks, an 0-4-2T and the like. i don't know what he done with collection. I must ask him as he went on to marry my cousin. In the early years there were a lots of articles on how to convert the limited range of RTR locos into other prototypes. One of the more ambitious was to create an SR O2 0-4-4T from a Jinty and there were the Castles to King, Star, Hall, Manor etc. The joke was that no-one had ever managed to make a Triang Castle look like a Castle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
detheridge Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 In the early years there were a lots of articles on how to convert the limited range of RTR locos into other prototypes. One of the more ambitious was to create an SR O2 0-4-4T from a Jinty and there were the Castles to King, Star, Hall, Manor etc. The joke was that no-one had ever managed to make a Triang Castle look like a Castle. One could argue the same for all those conversions of the Triang OO Princess to Black 5s, Jubilees and Royal Scots.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 The two DMU's are recent acquisitions which run quite nicely even though the advert for one said not a good runner, the two car unit will need the roofs painting though but will end up as a matching pair afterwards. I will have to stop buying these as I have another on its way but even though I am a steam man the DMU is a lovely model and runner. Luckily the BRCW is quite an early DMU (1957) so will fit in fine with the steam locos. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Luckily the BRCW is quite an early DMU (1957) so will fit in fine with the steam locos. The new one that is coming has a nice trailer and centre car but a poor motor vehicle, so, I am in two minds whether to cut the front of the motor car and put on the rear of the trailer to make a single car. That is one option but there maybe someone who wants a poor body to paint blue etc and swap for a reasonable green one. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 In the early years there were a lots of articles on how to convert the limited range of RTR locos into other prototypes. One of the more ambitious was to create an SR O2 0-4-4T from a Jinty and there were the Castles to King, Star, Hall, Manor etc. The joke was that no-one had ever managed to make a Triang Castle look like a Castle. On page 2 is my Jinty conversion to an 0-4-4 LMS tank. One big problem with the Castle is the firebox shape, it was made flat sided to get around the motor at the time. It also seems to have a slightly small smokebox but that could be an optical illusion due to the firebox and chimney which looks wrong. Here is my modified Castle with more copper to the chimney and brass beading to the splashers. Other Castles need to be done the same one day. This one is fitted with Romfords and an XT60 motor. Garry 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hroth Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 As an aside, I'm using a Triang TT diesel shunter and wagon in one of my Cakebox Challenge entries. TT3 is just the right size, big enough to see, small enough to get it all in! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 (edited) While technically the window spacing on the saloon section wouldn't be 100% pukka, the single car conversion, with a little bit of cab window enlargement, would make a fair representation of the original Derby Lightweight singles. More convincing than a Triang Castle! Edited November 27, 2017 by BernardTPM 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 On page 2 is my Jinty conversion to an 0-4-4 LMS tank. One big problem with the Castle is the firebox shape, it was made flat sided to get around the motor at the time. It also seems to have a slightly small smokebox but that could be an optical illusion due to the firebox and chimney which looks wrong. Here is my modified Castle with more copper to the chimney and brass beading to the splashers. Other Castles need to be done the same one day. This one is fitted with Romfords and an XT60 motor. Garry It certainly looks better! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) Regarding the 2 DMU's mentioned earlier I have now re-painted the grey part of the roofs quite a bit lighter than the originals. I did have to do it freehand by brush as I could not get the masking tape in properly above the top yellow line but it will do. The greens are the same, just one is closer to the flash. When summer comes back I will most likely varnish the sides like I did with the other units this year. That removes most of the "wear" that seems to happen on most DMU's but not other locos for some reason. The two cars here did come from separate sources, one as a full 3 car set and the other I did have to win all 3 units. At least still a lot cheaper than a poorer example went for this weekend. Garry Edited November 28, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 A start has been made on the wiring. 3 meters of lighting wire was stripped and two complete circuits of these were fastened under the baseboard with the aid of holes drilled in the cross members and drawing pins which will keep the wires from touching and shorting out. A couple of extra lengths were used for the isolated sections then the wire from each piece of track soldered to the copper. It certainly paid off using colour coding. Only two wires needed to be extended/joined as each piece of track only had 3" wires soldered to it. So far on test everything works well so hopefully in the next few days I will get all the lower level finished, just need to sort some switches out now. Garry 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 (edited) Decisions, decisions. I recently bought this Britannia as stated "for spares or repair" quite cheaply, the tender was quite grubby as can be seen from the advert photo and the loco body was fit for the dustbin. It arrived today and is a lovely runner (also fitted with a smoke unit) and the tender washed up nicely. As described I wanted the chassis and tender for a Standard 5 kit I have, now, as they are as good as they are do I 1) fit a reasonable spare Britannia body on that practically matches the tender 2) use the loco chassis under a closed spoked Britannia then use its chassis for the Standard 5 3) use as was my intention for the Standard 5 I wish I did not have the other Brit body as it puts my back to square one with the standard 5 Garry Late flash, I have just found an old Brit chassis without the rear pony truck that will do for the Standard 5 which just leaves me with a tender required for it, plus, I have another Britannia which I would not normally have bought. I will have to rename her though. Edited November 30, 2017 by Golden Fleece 30 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted November 30, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 30, 2017 You cannot ever have enough spoke wheeled Brits ! Option one for me . The std 5 will look good - get a long range Tender and do a southern green one if you dare... Have fun Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 You cannot ever have enough spoke wheeled Brits ! Option one for me . The std 5 will look good - get a long range Tender and do a southern green one if you dare... Have fun Robert Hi Robert, Here is the chassis with the reasonable body, it may need a clean first with the tender getting new crests. I already have a Standard 5 in green to finish so the 3rd one has its colour undecided at the moment. If I get a Brit tender chassis only I may make the larger version tender body like the 9F one I made. Garry 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Going through my "bits" box I came across a couple of Britannia tender bodies, one of which is in very good condition so I have swapped it for the original. Not only that but the spare I found has both crests facing forward which is always my preference. I know not correct after 1955 (ish) but I am never keen on the correct lion facing to the left on the fireman's side. The old tender body will now be used as intended behind the Standard 5 when I get a chassis. For those who did not know the initial BR crest with the lion on the wheel was always left and right without any issue. It is only when the later style came out BR was told they were only allowed one heraldic crest after using two as previously. The initial crest never had a crown used which is why it was always acceptable. Garry 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 It would be 1956. They were only allowed the one they submitted to the College of Arms, which faced left. Those see-thorough wheels on the Brit look very nice, making it so very like its 00 big brother (and I know very early 00 ones had solid wheels too). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 (edited) It was nearly three years before they woke up to the error however and I can't recall any great rush to correct it even then. (Some transfers to use up?). The cycling lion was not a heraldic emblem so the LH/RH question did not arise. I always thought the ferret lion looking backwards was ridiculous. Edited December 1, 2017 by Il Grifone 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 I always thought the ferret lion looking backwards was ridiculous. It was only doing what we do on this part of the forum every day................... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted December 2, 2017 Share Posted December 2, 2017 TRACK ISSUES One photo shows what I mentioned earlier about the different rail profiles used and you can clearly see how much rounder/thinner one is to the other. The other photos show why I have found a couple of locos "jumping" on a corner. The curve in question has a gauge of only 11.41 at the end, in the middle it is 11.96 and at its other end 12.05mm. The vernier is not at an angle as the photo makes out but if it was then placed more squarely the gauge would be narrower still. The locos in question so far are both open spoked wheels which on measuring are 10.16 and 10.2 back to back as opposed to 10.00 on the solid wheel sets, so the wider wheel and narrower gauge are giving a hic-cup. I will see if I have another to replace it with which I should have somewhere. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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