Airbrush virgin + Vallejo Model Color

[spikey]

My shiny new airbrush kit should be here Monday and although I've done my homework here and on YouTube, there's one thing I'm completely in the dark about.  I'll be using Vallejo Model Color (i.e. not the ready-to-spray Model Air), and I have no idea how to thin it.  Given that however thoroughly I shake my paints (each with an M5 stainless nut in the container), the consistency varies somewhat between colours, how do I arrive at the correct consistency for airbrushing?  And how will I know when it is thinned correctly?

 

 

[smiths park]

I'm sure this is wrong, and I would never put myself up as an expert, but with about 10 drops of Vallejo Model Colour I use 1 drop of Winsor and Newton flow improver at about 20psi. Goes on lovely for me.

[Mick Bonwick]

Don't just shake it, give it a good stir as well. And then do it again. Whatever the consistency out of the container (jar, tin, pot) you should aim for something like semi-skimmed milk for airbrushing. There's no absolute percentage to stick to because there are several factors to take into account - airbrush, compressor, spraying pressure and you. Experimentation is the order of the day, on scrap sheets of plastic card, until it comes out right.

[ELTEL]

I followed George Dent’s suggestion in hi book and always where possible use the same manufacturer thinners as the paint I’m using.

 

As you get more experience you can try alternatives.

 

I also always spraying when spraying with acrylics add a few spots of Airbrush Flow Improver (AV Vallejo product) this helps to prevent the paint drying on spray nozzle of your Airbrush

 

 

Good luck and take your time, and practice on old wagon, coach and locomotive bodies (ready supplies at most swap meets)

 

Eltel

[spikey]

Thanks gents - but as this is completely new territory, I can't help wondering how one knows when a problem is due to paint consistency.  Assuming a correctly set up airbrush running at the right pressure, I guess that if it's too thin, I'll simply get poor coverage at full paint flow.  But what happens if it's too thick?  How will I know it's too thick?

 

Come to think of it, might it be an idea to simply get myself some Model Air and try to match the consistency of that until I get the hang of it all?

[Rob Pulham]

I too use Vallejo model colour paints and having had the odd one curdle when trying other people's make of thinner I now use Vallejo thinner for vallejo paints. As Mick says the consistency of milk is about right.

 

What I have found is that the cheap plastic glue spreaders (such as those advertised by HobbyCraft below - image copyright Hobbycraft just used for illustration) that are sold in pound shops etc for children to spread glue with, are ideal as paint mixers I use them along with disposable medicine cups. the flat edge of the spreader allows you to make sure that all the pigment is mixed with the thinner.

 

[Vecchio]

you will get thicker paint particles- like little blobs - if the airbrush sprays at all. They may lead to a rough surface. 

But just try it on a piece of paper first - you can always thin it down if you are not happy. 

And: nobody is born as a master sprayer. Trial and error will bring you there. 

[Quarryscapes]

Vallejo airbrush thinner and lots of it, Model colour is more like a thin gel! 

 

Smaller airbrush needle size = thinner paint. 

 

THinner paint = lower pressure to spray. 

 

There are no absolute values for anything, it's all a thing you have to get a feel for. 

[Ross34]

Just curious but is it a single or double action?... and what are you using for air?

 

Oh and if you haven't already - fit a moisture trap.

 

I have a double action Iwata Neo which I'm still getting used too .. I must admit setting up & cleaning down is a bit of a faff but the effects possible with an airbrush make it worth it.

 

One last tip . I use my brush in a garden shed which at this time of year can get a bit nippy - I noticed letting the paint (and airbrush to a certain degree) get a bit too cold had an effect on performance - flow, mixing of the paint, and drying etc..

[phixer64]

As an airbrush user, I've listened to lots of comments and watched lots of youTube videos, on this matter, and read articles on here , and other websites online.

 

I myself use Vallejo paints, with the their thinners and cleaners.

 

Yes, consistency varies somewhat between colours, myself finding darker colours need a little bit more thinners. I tend to use about 7-10 drops of paint, and slow add thinners, and mix with back spray (hold finger over nozzle and pull back trigger to mix) - On a double action. 

 

p.s.i. of airbrush, depends on what I'm spraying, and colour, but I don't  spray any higher then 20psi. With my compressor, which has an air reservoir, set on this pressure, the compressor doesn't use up all the thank in one go, which means it will kick and and make more air. This helps in prolonging the life of the compressor.

 

Regular cleaning, with all the correct brushes and thinner, and cleaners (water down windex is not bad).

 

If your a first starter, try on some unpainted Dapol bodies, to teach yourself techniques, if you make a mistake, it won't cost a lot, and also, you can strip and respray as many times.

 

Practice is a must, and given time, you'll find your own techniques on spraying, paints and pressures etc.

 

 

Regards Jeff

[spikey]

Just curious but is it a single or double action?... and what are you using for air?

Double-action, compressor with tank and trap.

 

Thanks once again, gentlemen.

[Ross34]

Double-action, compressor with tank and trap.

 

Thanks once again, gentlemen.

Same here Spikey.. double action maybe a bit trickier at the beginning but I find they are much more controllable.

[Paul-H]

Another vote for Vallejo's own thinner for their paints

 

And if you fancy trying Tamiya paints 70% rubbing alcohol does the job, and talking of Tamiya don't try brush painting with them, they are best airbrushed.

 

Paul

[spikey]

And if you fancy trying Tamiya paints 70% rubbing alcohol does the job ...

Ah.  In the UK, "rubbing alcohol" can be either surgical spirit or isopropyl alcohol. Anybody know for sure which one works with Tamiya acrylics?

 

ETA - just been reliably informed that IPA works, as does Wilko's concentrated screenwash, apparently!

Edited December 10, 2017 by spikey

[Paul-H]

It's the isopropanol & water mix

 

Paul

[CME and Bottlewasher]

I dont know if this is too late, Im no expert, yet I have found that 'Ultimate Airbrush Thinner' and associated products work well with acrylics. Let paint down to approximate consistancy of a thin milk.

 

ATVB

 

CME

[70021 Morning Star]

MOST IMPORTANT is getting the paint thoroughly mixed in the tin. That's before you add any thinner.

 

Due to recent health and safety changes, all the manufacturers are having problems getting their paint components to blend nicely. That means YOU have to invest far more time and effort in ensuring your paint is thoroughly mixed in the tin before thinking about anything else.

 

Two steps:

1) use a plastic spatula (like those illustrated in a previous posting) to pull all of the thicker residues off the base, sides, and corners of the tin.

 

2) buy one of those little battery powered electric coffee frothers. They're the best thing ever for really mixing the components of the paint back together after they've settled in the tin.

 

Once your paint is thoroughly mixed, you'll avoid surprises when you try thinning it for airbrushing or brush painting. In my experience, most paint problems reported on RMweb are down to the paint not been mixed as thoroughly as had been though. ...believe me, I've been there.

 

Have fun,

Rick

[CME and Bottlewasher]

MOST IMPORTANT is getting the paint thoroughly mixed in the tin. That's before you add any thinner.

Due to recent health and safety changes, all the manufacturers are having problems getting their paint components to blend nicely. That means YOU have to invest far more time and effort in ensuring your paint is thoroughly mixed in the tin before thinking about anything else.

Two steps:

1) use a plastic spatula (like those illustrated in a previous posting) to pull all of the thicker residues off the base, sides, and corners of the tin.

2) buy one of those little battery powered electric coffee frothers. They're the best thing ever for really mixing the components of the paint back together after they've settled in the tin.

Once your paint is thoroughly mixed, you'll avoid surprises when you try thinning it for airbrushing or brush painting. In my experience, most paint problems reported on RMweb are down to the paint not been mixed as thoroughly as had been though. ...believe me, I've been there.

Have fun,

Rick

Good advice, well made....paints have changed a lot in recent times.

[The Fatadder]

I have taken to using a spatular (or a rectangle of plasticard) mounted in a cordless drill as a paint mixer. Mixing paint in a plastic shot glass (bought in bulk from a pound store). It works so much better than the results I was getting mixing by hand

[MikeTrice]

I am a bit late with this but you might be interested to read: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/96995-vallejo-acrylic-paints/ and various experiments carried out.