Metropolitan Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Edited Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 fitted their own buffers??? Why, I can't say. Could be as simple as to make sure spares were available easily in case of rough shunts. That way a loco wouldn't be side lined for the sake of one buffer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Perhaps they were worn out , wrong size for the coaches when transfered or they were a rubbish design ??????????? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 I take it you've just received your extra bogie, then, John? I hadn't even noticed I was one short. I expect you'll now build this in 20 minutes and mine will still be in the pile 10 years hence. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 ...I expect you'll now build this in 20 minutes... Nah, he'll do it in 15 this time - remember he more or less designed the kit, so builds can only get quicker! There must be a category in the Guinness Book of Records to cater for things like this! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Edited Metropolitan, will you put something back into message No.1, as not having anything there makes the other messages a bit disjointed. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted May 28, 2010 Author Share Posted May 28, 2010 I am making progress. A couple of general snags may be of interest: - The Markits milled crossheads are sublime things! They come with a tube to fit into the cylinders in which the piston rod runs. On this loco there is an extension to the piston rod so I soldered one onto the end of the tube. On oiling the rod I found that it did in fact act as a piston so close is the fit!!! I therefore had to drill a small hole at the forward end to let the air out. - I fitted a 1420 Mashima fat-ways-on- in- width to a simple Highlevel Roadrunner gearbox because of cost and the ability to remove the motor without the need to strip down the entire chassis. This snagged the OO wheels but I found that there is sufficient meat on the motor casing to allow it to be filed down to give sufficient clearance. The casing on a 1420 must be at least 1.5mm thick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted May 29, 2010 Author Share Posted May 29, 2010 Valve gear now installed. This is the thing that puts people off building a loco. In fact it's so easy if the kit is well designed. -Use steel rivets if you can get hold of them. Drill the holes out to suit the rivets. If there 'ain't enough meat to do so then send the fret back and demand a replacement. Have a selection of rivet lengths to hand and use a 1oz hammer. I like to rivet the gear up nice and tight. Then I DW40 the gear and get it going with plenty of 'Hand of God'! The motion will be stiff and the motor will get too hot to touch! Run it in for an hour each way by which time the motor should be running cool and the whole thing will have freed up. If it isn't, you've got a problem. If all is OK I rinse off the WD40 with Fairy Liquid and re-oil. This gear is so smooth I'm getting a revolution time in excess of 30 seconds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 This one hasn't been at all quick!! I'd just finished the body and was taking it out to the garage for a pre paint clean-up when a Seagull flew up in front of me and I dropped it onto a concrete path!! It landed on the smokebox which was crushed to nothing before bouncing over and wrecking the coal bars and back end! Hence the lack of updates whilst I tried to mercilessly hunt down and torture to death the offending Seagull!! Nevertheless, once I had to some extent recovered and stopped screaming I proceeded to repair the job the best I can: The smokebox is basically a sculpture of Milliput. Pugsley of this Forum very kindly agreed to weather it for me and I am very grateful to him for the superb job he has done! Luckily, the chassis was undamaged so it runs very well and, thanks to Martin, doesn't look too bad to boot! Boiler fittings and other sundries are mainly by Markits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Very pleased to see this finished, John. I'm looking forward to having the time to build mine. I'm a little surprised to see her weathered; has someone persuaded you over to the Dark Side? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 I like to rivet the gear up nice and tight. Then I DW40 the gear and get it going with plenty of 'Hand of God'! The motion will be stiff and the motor will get too hot to touch! Run it in for an hour each way by which time the motor should be running cool and the whole thing will have freed up. If it isn't, you've got a problem. Why are you rivetting the gear so tight ? It achieves nothing and you are very lucky you are not burning the motor out! You will damage the motor with such practice. A very expensive idea !!If you use the right length of rivet if should leave you with a nice free moving joint. Locos look very nice well done Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 Hi Mick I like to get my rivets nice and tight to begin with so the motion doesn't wobble and flop about with age. They soon loosen up to a perfect fit with a bit of running in. Yep, the motor runs hot for a while but runs cool onnce evrything has setlled down. An hours running in does the trick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 I like to get my rivets nice and tight to begin with so the motion doesn't wobble and flop about with age. If you get the tolerances right and then lubricate properly the motion should remain properly set up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 If you get the tolerances right and then lubricate properly the motion should remain properly set up. I agree !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 If you get the tolerances right and then lubricate properly the motion should remain properly set up. What tolerances? I don't allow any tolerance in the riveted valve gear?? Am I missing something? Any play whatsoever means slop, jerk and wobble? What tolerance do you allow for your riveted joints? I'm baffled. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 The tolerance is a "moving" fit between the valve gear parts rivetted together . This means without slop or too tight to move easily. If its rivetted properly there is no reason for this to change after running in and in normal use. The parts are not under any kind of excess load , stress to parts or motor , friction or anything else people would like to call it Simples Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 What tolerances? I don't allow any tolerance in the riveted valve gear?? Am I missing something? Any play whatsoever means slop, jerk and wobble? What tolerance do you allow for your riveted joints? I'm baffled. Yes you are missing something! Play is 'slop' but without any 'slop' things don't move - there's an engineered degree of slop on your car's gearbox for example. The way you're assembling things tight and then forcing them to move is far more likely to cause damage in the long term (excessive slop and wobble) because they will have to find their own clearances and movement rather than you allowing for it. The way you have done things with WD40 proabaly hasn't achieved anything; WD40 is used for getting seized mechanisms moving but remember these will have had a degree of tolerance in the first place. If valve gear is stiff you'd be better using a cheap, abrasive toothpaste. Old style model valve gear is more suseptable (sp?) to wobbling in motion; better engineered motion with proper joints goes along way to aleviate this whole effect. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 James Ah!! I think we are singing from the same hymn sheet. What I do is this: I only use steel rivets and tap them up so that they just nip up the parts. (When I said 'tight' I didn't mean locked solid!!) Once the gear is assembled I then squirt with WD40 and wiggle it by hand before fitting to make sure its a runner. Once installed my gear is a bit tight I'll admit. I prefer it that way. I've never burnt a motor out and invariably the motion frees up to smooth running within minutes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 John, I think you understand the ideas behind it, but just didn't report them in an 'engineering' manner if you know what I mean! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Maybe John aren't an engineer James...! Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metropolitan Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Maybe John aren't an engineer James...! Dave. Ain't that the truth Dave!! Nevertheless, I'll stick to my original method and nip up the joints so they just bind (I'll challenge anybody to do otherwise without any slop!) and run them in to a smoooooooth fit. The point being it's easier to ease a tight fitting joint than rectify a sloppy one. Also, it's likely I'll get more life out of my gear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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