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Hinton Road Engine Shed


GWR57xx
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  • RMweb Gold

I've ordered some tube and I-beams to try to represent the water pipes and roof beams seen at Didcot:

DSC01863.JPG.71b8b02e91834d2e05f2c738bd8421c7.JPG

 

DSC01867.JPG.af066c075585959ca2341f3bc3710a61.JPG

 

I might also try to conjure up some of those coal tubs, as I'm not aware of anyone making 7mm kits for them?

Does anyone know the dimensions of the tubs?

I'd pay a visit to Didcot to measure up, but I believe the coal stage is off-limits at the moment due to the major works being undertaken to restore it. Unless anyone knows different?

 

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1 hour ago, B15nac said:

Looking really good. What engine shed are you going to have?

 

Regards Neil 


It will be based on the two-road shed that was at Stratford on Avon.
I’m not sure there are any suitable 7mm kits available, so I was planning to scratchbuild something.

 

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1 hour ago, GWR57xx said:

I've ordered some tube and I-beams to try to represent the water pipes and roof beams seen at Didcot:

DSC01863.JPG.71b8b02e91834d2e05f2c738bd8421c7.JPG

 

DSC01867.JPG.af066c075585959ca2341f3bc3710a61.JPG

 

I might also try to conjure up some of those coal tubs, as I'm not aware of anyone making 7mm kits for them?

Does anyone know the dimensions of the tubs?

I'd pay a visit to Didcot to measure up, but I believe the coal stage is off-limits at the moment due to the major works being undertaken to restore it. Unless anyone knows different?

 

I've asked modelu to scan them an they said they will next time there at Didcot. The stage is open again now after the tank restoration etc 

 

Regards Neil 

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Small diversion from the interior walls.

Thinking of the coal tubs, I thought I'd make up the coal drop part of the Intentio kit as this would give me a good idea of the tub size.

Quite chuffed to discover that the coal drop is functional, wasn't expecting that. What a great kit!

 

DSC04033.JPG.2ab9b0d2899ce9be482711a54315a306.JPG

 

DSC04034.JPG.ce1e651913ca63194e3d547937aa3bf4.JPG

 

And the real thing at Didcot:

DSC01868.JPG.02b4823322453ff57d5507d567f9b764.JPG

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Pointing of the brickwork has begun.

This is another task that I've been putting off for fear of ruining the acrylic paintwork.

On a previous build I did this step too soon after painting and clear-coating, not giving them enough time for them to dry properly, and the pointing smudged the paint.

This time I've given the paint and clear coat plenty of time to thoroughly dry before pointing it.

A comparison of pointed vs unpointed (sorry about the reflections):

DSC04035.JPG.1cb8249843149d19c049a5c096fcfe43.JPG

 

Here's the lower piece from the photo above after pointing:

DSC04036.JPG.589c7d949cf2d0d843d12394d4fe50fc.JPG

 

Tones down the colours nicely IMO.

 

For the "mortar" I used a method that I first saw in one of @47606odin's videos, slightly modified.

I used "No Nonsense Lightweight Filler", very slightly moistened and rubbed over the bricks into the mortar courses with a finger.

Works a treat. (I tried the cream paint technique previously but failed miserably).

 

Still lots more wall pieces to do...

 

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Had a go at guesstimating the dimensions of a coal tub then made an origami mock up:

DSC04037.JPG.190e8c2d3ac3ef13309bd1a637f52d8f.JPG

 

Doesn't look too far off size-wise to me, but will need some work to make it look half decent.

There are some super looking 3D printed versions appearing on a couple of other RMWeb threads - I'm quite envious. Perhaps that's another technology I need to embrace at some point in the future...

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi @steve fay, thanks very much for that link.

Unfortunately I've been out this evening to the local Thai restaurant for a very nice meal and it appears that the O gauge version is already sold out.

I've messaged the seller to express my interest, so hopefully I'll be able to buy a few.

As it happens the dimensions of the tub given in the eBay listing are an exact match to the ones I guesstimated so that's quite pleasing as they'll be a great fit with the Intentio coal stage.

 

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  • RMweb Gold

I wasn't happy with the front wall windows so decided to re-do them with much thinner outer framing, to better match this one seen at Didcot:

DSC01870.JPG.11326c0c93929ce9501bc440c33fbccb.JPG

 

I've also now made up the other three internal walls, which are ready for painting.

 

The kit has a cleverly designed outside staircase that can easily be reversed, allowing it to go on either the left or right hand side of the building. The left and right hand walls are also easily interchangeable, so I had to decide which way would best suit my layout before I could build the stairs. These are now half built. Getting there slowly...

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Progress continues at my usual glacial pace.

Now that the building is coming together I decided to see what it looked like beside an engine for the first time.

DSC04284.JPG.d6d5978ac1b93e5c0041246e5e71669a.JPG


I think it looks a little undernourished?
Or maybe:

 

 

I wanted to add lights inside and outside the building, but haven't been able to find anything suitable ready-made so decided to have a go at knocking something up, shown above poked into a convenient hole just for evaluation.
I'm not sure? 
I've since found a couple of potential candidates at Kytes Lights:

 

KytesSwanNeck.jpg.3142a5b6f760c6a164a20039c7682ab9.jpg

 

KytesWallLamp.jpg.fef08c3c8efaef5e565917d9bbec1c22.jpg

 

Has anyone tried these?

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I've had another attempt at the lamp. This one is not glued up yet, but looks a bit more promising I think?

A couple more shots with 4871 for size.

 

DSC04285.JPG.158ea58f7cc6b0960455c1c5ddaab2ad.JPG

 

DSC04286.JPG.8ea4271dea734fbd4b0da9b2d34eb035.JPG

 

Lengthwise and widthwise the coal stage is perfect for a small Churchward model, but I thought it maybe looked a bit vertically challenged. The coal platform would interfere with the loco cab when lowered, but comparing with Stratford on Avon's coal stage I'd say it was about the same?

 

https://warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/gwrsa496.htm

gwrsa496.jpg.e0bfee1d405ba3efd427562ca7508dcc.jpg


Didcot's large coal stage has the platform 14' above track level (well above the GWR loading gauge), which results in quite a bit longer drop for the delicate welsh coal but means there's no danger of a mishap with a moving engine destroying the platform.

 

NB. The brick finger edges of the Intentio kit are a very good interference fit and I don't want to keep undoing them as they'll likely break off eventually, so I'm waiting for the final build before locking them together again. All the walls are just loosely fitted at present until everything is ready for final assembly.

 

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I was initially fairly pleased with my attempt at creating a working lamp, until I saw it in the photos above.

I thought I could (and should) do better.

This is my latest attempt, which I think looks a bit more passable as an early 20th century gas lamp that could still have been in place in my 1920's/30's timeframe:

 

DSC04287.JPG.2ee89e399aabb90c3b147b5f42fc1b20.JPG

 

DSC04288.JPG.ba0a913fef38729a4bcef8a9c7091e4f.JPG

 

DSC04289.JPG.0ddd22fca7f54325eb549b050ac4c04d.JPG

 

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On 20/10/2022 at 09:10, GWR57xx said:

Pointing of the brickwork has begun.

This is another task that I've been putting off for fear of ruining the acrylic paintwork.

On a previous build I did this step too soon after painting and clear-coating, not giving them enough time for them to dry properly, and the pointing smudged the paint.

This time I've given the paint and clear coat plenty of time to thoroughly dry before pointing it.

A comparison of pointed vs unpointed (sorry about the reflections):

DSC04035.JPG.1cb8249843149d19c049a5c096fcfe43.JPG

 

Here's the lower piece from the photo above after pointing:

DSC04036.JPG.589c7d949cf2d0d843d12394d4fe50fc.JPG

 

Tones down the colours nicely IMO.

 

For the "mortar" I used a method that I first saw in one of @47606odin's videos, slightly modified.

I used "No Nonsense Lightweight Filler", very slightly moistened and rubbed over the bricks into the mortar courses with a finger.

Works a treat. (I tried the cream paint technique previously but failed miserably).

 

Still lots more wall pieces to do...

 

I've been failing drastically to point some bricks on an engine shed.    I am near despair.    I hope to follow your lead here.

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6 hours ago, bluestag said:

I've been failing drastically to point some bricks on an engine shed.    I am near despair.    I hope to follow your lead here.


I use acrylic paints these days. I found it was critical to allow the paint to dry thoroughly before sealing with spray coat varnish, then allowing this to properly harden before trying to do the mortar courses.

I just made a mess trying to use paint for the mortar, but found the filler method quite easy. Don’t make the filler mix too wet/watery. I found a consistency like toothpaste works well.

This is on mfd and ply though, I haven’t tried it on card.

Have you found the painting guide on the LCut website?

They recommend sealing the card with spray yacht varnish before and after painting, before doing the mortar. This should harden the card and provide some waterproofing too which should prevent the card breaking up later.

Good luck 🙂.

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12 hours ago, GWR57xx said:

 

Have you found the painting guide on the LCut website?

They recommend sealing the card with spray yacht varnish before and after painting, before doing the mortar. This should harden the card and provide some waterproofing too which should prevent the card breaking up later.

Good luck 🙂.

It's an LCUT engine shed that I'm working on now.   I don't know where to buy "yacht" spray varnish.    I did have trouble with the surface getting wet and breaking up.    I'll heed your advice to wait for the paint and varnish to set.   And then try the filler.   You are getting good results there.

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3 hours ago, bluestag said:

I don't know where to buy "yacht" spray varnish. 

 

Doesn't need to be "yacht" varnish - that's just what LCut recommend.

I'd say whatever you use now as a lacquer/varnish, as long as it has some waterproofing property when it's hardened off.

 

This is what I'm currently using:

PlastiKote.jpg.3f1ceb33d0309fdc4785781e54412c3b.jpg

 

 

PlastiKote Quick Dry Clear Lacquer Matt. It's acrylic though. I think you  said you use enamels, so don't know if it would be compatible.

 

Toolstation is a UK nationwide hardware store - hopefully you have something similar local to you?

 

 

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22 hours ago, GWR57xx said:

 

 

 

PlastiKote Quick Dry Clear Lacquer Matt. It's acrylic though. I think you  said you use enamels, so don't know if it would be compatible.

 

Toolstation is a UK nationwide hardware store - hopefully you have something similar local to you?

 

 

I'm not sure that a paint can be both lacquer and acrylic.   And I have a massive home builder's supply three miles away.    I need to get back to the engine shed, but I'm painting and ballasting my track just now, and finding it a very time consuming and tedious business.

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On 20/10/2022 at 18:10, GWR57xx said:

Pointing of the brickwork has begun.

This is another task that I've been putting off for fear of ruining the acrylic paintwork.

On a previous build I did this step too soon after painting and clear-coating, not giving them enough time for them to dry properly, and the pointing smudged the paint.

This time I've given the paint and clear coat plenty of time to thoroughly dry before pointing it.

A comparison of pointed vs unpointed (sorry about the reflections):

DSC04035.JPG.1cb8249843149d19c049a5c096fcfe43.JPG

 

Here's the lower piece from the photo above after pointing:

DSC04036.JPG.589c7d949cf2d0d843d12394d4fe50fc.JPG

 

Tones down the colours nicely IMO.

 

For the "mortar" I used a method that I first saw in one of @47606odin's videos, slightly modified.

I used "No Nonsense Lightweight Filler", very slightly moistened and rubbed over the bricks into the mortar courses with a finger.

Works a treat. (I tried the cream paint technique previously but failed miserably).

 

Still lots more wall pieces to do...

 

 

Hi Peter, that looks very good. Thanks for pointing out this method, I hadn't heard of it before. Something to try out.

 

 

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