Grovenor Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Nice looking frames Hugh, dare I ask whose they are? La Scala wrote: So here it is after a good session. David Andrew's frame, Slaters wheels and bearings, Griffin brakes. In the post above Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 La Scala wrote: In the post above Keith Yes Rob, They are David Andrew's. His web site says that bits are not available separately but he took pity on me because Premier had produced nothing in 10 months, not even replied to mail or answered phone. I bought two sets (and forced myself to make the similar O4/6) because having got him on side I did not want to waste the favour! The N/S frames are an absolute joy to work with apart from the boredom factor reaming the bush holes. They are dated 2008 so have the benefits of CAD design. Nothing really wrong with the laminated brakes provided but I had decided from the start to use Laurie Griffin shoes. They are superb but a bit of a pain to drill out and fettle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 La Scala wrote: In the post above Keith Now how did I miss that - too busy thinking about Premier..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 Progress today with dummy motion and brake linkage. Yes, that is a cocktail stick in position of RH valve rod! Effectively none of this is visible once boiler is in place, so working gear would be superfluous in my view, even if I felt up to it......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 Springs on (only 24 laminations) primed and time to put it aside and tackle footplate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Pushing on with O4/6...... Valances next, then splashier tops. So far much easier than first time round Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 One splasher in place but have run out of brass of right size to continue. Obviously boiler only blue tacked for sense of achievement..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Two week hiatus caused by house guests and inability to get to hobby shop to buy brass. Valance and main splasher tops now done bar a bit of cleaning. Front frame extensions also done but tacked only. The front splasher tops are a treat to come followed by buffer beams. Fits chassis well. A bit of conflict between Isinglas shape of splashers and Andrews chassis resolved with cutting disk to chassis. Might consider removing all of the top section behind main splasher as the under scale frame width is betrayed by the correctly dimensioned splasher top. Short of narrowing firebox, there is no easy way out of this compromise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 Long hiatus caused by total hip replacement. Yes I know hips don't play a big part on the WB..... Pain has been a bit too much for long periods concentrating. A few things done any way. Mashima fitted so as to miss backhead, splashers completed, front frames and buffer beam, cylinders formed. Next are side bars, rear sandbox. Then cleaning uo and lots of detail to add. Yes I know buffer is drooping, it's just siting there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 Slow night at W/B resulted in this WIP on cylinder. Much burning of fingers. I cut bars from solid for this one. Used laminates for ROD. I think these are better but it took ages cutting them out.Should have soldered slide bars together at correct distance before sliding into cylinder rather than fixing only to inside of cylinder whilst gripping with long nose pliers. Cruel close up of course highlights a gap in end cover. Still needs a couple of bands and link for drain cocks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 Had better luck fixing slidebars together and trapping a suitable tube for pushrod before fitting to cylinder. This way the sub assembly just slides into cylinder already square and with pushrod moving freely. The scraps of brass on either side make for a solid unit. The drain cocks also conveniently facilitate the fixing of the lower slide bar in position. Their holes through bottom of cylinder provide a guide to fixing them straight and with plenty of flux, a good way of really fixing the bar a bit more at the same time. Pic shows rough fixing of assy. Seems to be very solid even without fixing cylinder to frame extension. Self rusting wheels all too evident........... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 An experiment with Archers on the front buffer beam. I did use them on the ROD but found then a bit too delicate at least for the reasonably chunky rivets on the buffer beam. Even accounting for the 1:48 Vs 1:43.5 difference I reckon they were still quite a bit too small. This time I used "O Scale" on the footplate top but "G Scale" on the beam. For the rivet counters, I think I have to correct number if not the spacing. Worth the effort I think, almost as good as GW rivet press (which I don't have) at least where you can use the smallest of the Archers predetermined spacing. Had to use solvent to squeeze up the spacing from top to bottom. Very easy to knock off hence cursory spray of primer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Martin Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hi, I started reading this thread because of my long-standing love of all things GCR, but it turns out that you're using something I've been thinking about for my n gauge modern wagons. The Archer rivets: you seem to have had some problems with adhesion, do you think this is because you're laying them directly on to brass or is it a more general issue with the product? I was considering using them on some styrene wagons (steel coil carriers) but they'll be quite exposed and I don't want them dropping off! I'd be interested in your thoughts on this Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 It is coming on well. I was wondering why you were using Archers rivets instead of embossing them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 It is coming on well. I was wondering why you were using Archers rivets instead of embossing them? Two reasons, I don't own press and I figured the spacing would be superior using the transfers. I did emboss the smokebox on the ROD, refer posts 35 & 42. The thought of over 60 on the buffer beam alone defeated me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hi, I started reading this thread because of my long-standing love of all things GCR, but it turns out that you're using something I've been thinking about for my n gauge modern wagons. The Archer rivets: you seem to have had some problems with adhesion, do you think this is because you're laying them directly on to brass or is it a more general issue with the product? I was considering using them on some styrene wagons (steel coil carriers) but they'll be quite exposed and I don't want them dropping off! I'd be interested in your thoughts on this Jim Thanks for looking Jim. I was born in High Wycombe so have an excuse for having these two similar but subtely different beasts "on shed". As I mentioned previously, I would have been better off with two David Andrews kits from the word go. The thread will have it's third birthday soon so it has not been a fast build. Have learnt plenty though. I think the adhesion is down to not priming first. I did not want to wait until the last minute to tackle the hundreds of rivets. With a waft of primer they are fine. Cutting the sheet close to the rivets is essential and a very quick dunk is all that is needed to get them mobile. The ones on the top of the footplate will be all but invisible but I know they are there! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 Next to no progress with this pair due to being busy at real work and a holiday in N Wales.Have solved an annoying short with the ROD due to lack of spacers on front driver. I had wanted to leave as much movement for obvious reasons but it resulted in shorting brake shoes. A single spacer has done the trick. I was so pleased I did not put back con rods, so here she is in iPad captured motion. Extra pick ups on tender still to be wired up.The O4/6 is just about to have pickups fitted and that body is tantalisingly close to joining 3015 on the glorified plank. Conrods back on and tender given pickups and sound Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 Here is the O4/6 running on straight DC. Had an annoying short or two to cure before fitting decoder. This one has Markits 40:1 G/B whereas the ROD has the integrated Slaters set up. THey both use the same Mashima motor. The tender is not connected properly, nor are the con rods on but so far so good with slow running. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Hi, I started reading this thread because of my long-standing love of all things GCR, but it turns out that you're using something I've been thinking about for my n gauge modern wagons. The Archer rivets: you seem to have had some problems with adhesion, do you think this is because you're laying them directly on to brass or is it a more general issue with the product? I was considering using them on some styrene wagons (steel coil carriers) but they'll be quite exposed and I don't want them dropping off! I'd be interested in your thoughts on this Jim Hi Jim and La Scala, I always leave the rivet transfers until I have put the primer on and then mist a light coat of acrylic gloss varnish on to aid adhesion. Lots of decal setting solution to say goodbye to the carrier film and it works a treat! A second light mist of primer and they are NOT coming off... My efforts with my CORAL A on Little Didcot illustrate the process. I hope this helps! All the best, Castle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Both locos are looking fine. I know very little about the two you are making. But the older eight coupled always look impressive to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Got the con rod on and coupled tender up properly. Now for the steps, lamp irons and rear sand boxes. I must order a decoder for this and the 45xx. I realised my output for the last three years was little more than this line up. About a long weekend's worth for Jazz. What did someone say about "mojo"? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 Limping to the completion, here is 5015 supposedly as in 1934 after being downsized Needs some serious weathering Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted July 19, 2013 Author Share Posted July 19, 2013 And now a little dirtier.......... Still needs balance weights, safety valves, injector overflows, whistle and splasher sand box lids Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Look at the bulk of the O4/6 - lovely. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 Still a few bits short like whistles but here are the pair caught in evening light. Not sure about the headcode for the ROD though............... Have found it very hard to work out where the injectors live and more particularly their overflows. Although I must have looked at dozens of pics, none show the layout or there's a puff of steam to spoil things. Several conflict . The Gladiator & DA kits seems to ignore them as does the Bachman 4mm version. Any clues? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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