Priory Road - North East Essex in BR days

[Izzy]

 

A class 16 pt 2

 

Since I only have a fairly small portable workbench, an old metal frame computer station on casters originally bought in the ‘80’s for my son to use as a workbench on which he built planes, when I want to use my little lathe I have to clear it. As this also involves getting the lathe out from it’s storage space on the floor under a built-in desk I try and only use it when absolutely necessary or when I have several bits to make. So until I do get around to using it I have been plodding on with the body for the class 16 in between other jobs.

 

The basic carcass wasn’t too involved or difficult to make from 10thou brass sheet, indeed you can understand why those not enamoured with diesels often refer to them as ‘boxes on wheels’ because that is pretty much what this looks like, but the cab has been a slightly different matter.

 

 

I decided to make it in much the same way as I had with the class 15, indeed the whole body construction is much the same, in that it is separate and will plug into the body once all has been painted so that the cab can be glazed and interior and driver added etc. None of this would I estimate be possible if it was made as part of the body due to the narrow nature of the loco. Being able to gain sufficient access after painting to undertake what would be needed.

 

My first attempt used 10thou for the front and back with a 5thou ‘wrap-over’ roof and sides.

 

 

 

All went well until I made all the holes for the windows. This proved to weaken it to the point it started to fall apart at several joints and I couldn’t rescue it.

 

 

 

So with three days work down the drain I resolved to use 10thou for the wrap-over with the second one in the hope it would give more strength. I don’t recall having any great issues with the class 15 but perhaps I used 10thou to start with, I can’t really remember. It was also more straightforward in that the front/back were flat, which with the 16 are not, they are angled. And just to add another little twist one cab handrail is recessed and between the windows…….

 

Thankfully the second attempt seems to have worked. Bending the wrap-over proved time consuming. I don’t like annealing brass as it makes it too soft so it was slow work with brass rod of different sizes just bending here, bending there, slowly trying to coax the right shape out of it. Once I’d got there the windows were again made by initial drilling and then sized with needle files.

 

 

 

When it all stayed as one piece I then faced another tricky problem, the recessed handrail slot. This is just about 1mm wide. How to make it? Chain drilling a vertical slot with a 0.55mm drill and opening it out was done with broaches but for a while I got stuck how to open it out further to the correct size easily. Without making a mess of it and ruining the whole cab. I didn’t want to have to start again….

 

 

 

So I got out all my needle files and sought out a flat one that was past it’s best, a CK. Then I got my wheel grinder out of the shed and ground one face and the edges off to give a short initial length of around 10mm down to about 0.5mm thick.

 

 

With this and the single cutting face I was able to gently open out the slots to the required width.

 

 

 

 

 

Now I can back the slots with some 5thou and add the window frames, handrails, and rain strip. More fun!

 

Bob

[John57sharp]

We’ll done! Good to read about ingenious solutions. My lathe is also inaccessible for the time being, though I can see it now, just a sofa to remove from the garage and I my be able to use it!

 

John

[Izzy]

3 hours ago, John57sharp said:

We’ll done! Good to read about ingenious solutions. My lathe is also inaccessible for the time being, though I can see it now, just a sofa to remove from the garage and I my be able to use it!

 

John

These days I could do with the dinky little Proxxon FD150 at just 4.5kg but the prices are just plain silly for what it is. I feel really sorry for anyone looking for a lathe these days. The Unimat 3 stands head and shoulders above others, perhaps why they command such high secondhand prices when they become available.

 

Bob

 

 

[D-A-T]

Try looking at the price of a second hand Cowells lathe. Eye watering, especially if they have a good range of accessories. A Watchmaker’s Cowells lathe with minimum accessories just sold on eBay for £1800. Starting price for a Cowells ME lathe seems to be £1000 with just a 3 jaw chuck. I continue to dream….

[Izzy]

5 hours ago, D-A-T said:

Starting price for a Cowells ME lathe seems to be £1000 with just a 3 jaw chuck. I continue to dream….

 

Having a larger lathe (Hobbymat) - along with it's companion mill/drill - in a shed outside and the little Sieg baby O indoors, I suppose wanting something even smaller is being a bit picky but results from just getting old and health troubles coping with bigger and heavier equipment now.  Standing up for any considerable length of time etc.

 

Since the subject was brought up recently I've been re-reading the articles written by Nigel Cliffe on the 'Fonely' lathe on the 2mm website, wondering if the cheap bead turning 'mini' lathes on the likes of ebay etc. could form the basis of one. Add a tailstock drill and a cross slide somehow. Using simple parts and construction so the basics of turning and drilling could be accomplished. That's all that many would need and could be helpful since the 2mm wheel turning service ceased.

 

Bob

 

[John57sharp]

The Taig/Peatol is still good value. I have had good use of mine. Link to supplier

[Izzy]

A class 16 pt 3

 

The cab has been done, frames in 36swg pb wire, handrails in 9thou steel guitar wire.

 

 

So I’ve now tackled the roof. Again as with the class 15 this is layers of plasticard, 2 x 40thou + 1 x 20thou, glued into place with cryno and then shaped to the profile.

 

 

As with that I made up a profile gauge from some 10thou brass.

 

 

 

The difficulty is of course getting the roofs to match up with the cab so they all seem the same. As there was so much material to remove, much more than I seem to remember with the 15 I used a sheet of grade 80 aluminum oxide paper on which to rub them.

 

 

Without the cab in place so it didn’t get damaged, just fitting it near the finish to judge the fit and match and removing it between any further rubbing. It was one of those jobs where it's slow and patient work so it doesn't go too far. Once it's off it's hard to put back on if too much is removed.

 

 

 

It’s slowly coming on. Next up is all the other body detail, vents, louvres etc. How it will all come out is anyone’s guess. Sensible people with the skill to do so would have etched it all up no doubt, but that’s not my style, so it will just be ‘representative’ rather than looking accurate. It’s funny but I read somewhere that the major issue with these locos was overheating through lack of ventilation, the engines being the same Paxman units as in the class 15’s. I can’t really understand this as they have masses of vents compared to the latter which means a lot of scoring of brass. Still, it’s another little challenge and stops me getting bored through nothing to do……..

 

Bob

[Izzy]

A class 16 pt 4

 

I've had a bit on lately so progress on the class 16 has been periodic. However I have managed to make the handholds in the frame and add the main body detailing, the ventilators etc. The handholds required another needle file adapting to be able to slot it, strange that I've had to do this twice now for this particular loco. Luckily I had one already narrowed so it's just required thinning. Doing this is much cheaper than getting silly-expensive escapement files, which wouldn't mostly be the right size needed anyway although of course of lovely quality.

 

 

Wire was soldered in place behind and then a backing piece of brass sheet to try and give the impression of depth, that a hand could be wrapped around the grab handle. Hopefully they won't get too filled-in when the loco is painted. This is a problem I seem to come up against in 2mm. Paint thickness can obliterate finer details if too much is applied. Yet these days the paint quality is such that thicker coats seem needed to ensure decent coverage.

 

The body parts proved a challange to keep the different ones in the right order, so eventually I used the drawing to stick them to with d/s tape so I didn't end up putting them all on in the wrong places. They look similar but are anything but when you study the drawings and photos and it got rather confusing at one stage leading to the method I used.

 

 

These were all fixed in place with cryno. Very low-viscosity stuff, like water, so it ran easily into the joints. This I have found can be obtained from most builders merchants cheaply, a couple of pounds for 20g bottles. It's usually used for fixing plastic trim around UPVC windows etc. when they are installed. Solder construction has pretty much finished with the fitting of the plasticard roofs but might be attempted when the grab handrails and door handles are next fitted, we'll see.

 

 

Anyway this is where it's now up to. Just beginning to look something like a class 16. There is of course a long way to go but it gives hope.

 

Bob

Edited February 17, 2023 by Izzy

[Caley Jim]

2 hours ago, Izzy said:

 

Hopefully they won't get too filled-in when the loco is painted. This is a problem I seem to come up against in 2mm. Paint thickness can obliterate finer details if too much is applied. Yet these days the paint quality is such that thicker coats seem needed to ensure decent coverage.

 

 

I always apply multiple coats of thinned paint to overcome that problem.

 

As most folk will know, I'm not a fan of motorised biscuit tins, but that's coming along nicely, Bob.

 

Jim

[Izzy]

14 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

I always apply multiple coats of thinned paint to overcome that problem.

 

As most folk will know, I'm not a fan of motorised biscuit tins, but that's coming along nicely, Bob.

 

Jim

I’ll try the multiple thin coats method and see what success I have. Thanks for the suggestion. Also for the comment. For something that is just really a brass box on wheels, not like some of the more complex shape diesels, it’s surprising the amount of effort involved. 
 

Bob

 

 

[TomE]

‘Biscuit tins’ or ‘Kettles’, anyone who can take a sheet of brass and other assorted materials and make them in to a working model gets my admiration, plus always good to see more 2mm FS D&E content! 
 

Super work Bob, looking forward seeing more progress! 
 

Tom. 

[Izzy]

3 hours ago, TomE said:

‘Biscuit tins’ or ‘Kettles’, anyone who can take a sheet of brass and other assorted materials and make them in to a working model gets my admiration, plus always good to see more 2mm FS D&E content! 
 

Super work Bob, looking forward seeing more progress! 
 

Tom. 

 

Thanks Tom, yes it's surprising in many ways to both realise that diesels have been around for well over 65 years in the UK in mainstream use yet there is still this clear divide between them and steam. I think I'm a bit unusual in that I like and build both, although I've a way to go to equal what I've made in steam over the decades, and especially as I'm still making them!

 

As for electric, well, that's even worse, with just two EMU's made and none really on the horizon. Just as an example of how old they are here's something I found wandering around in the Swiss transport museum in Lucern back in the '90's when my son used to live there, working as a top chef an hour down lake Zurich and we use to pop 'over the top' to Lucern for a ride out when he was otherwise engaged.

 

 

Always thought those models using pancake motors weren't as far out as many thought after seeing it. I like the range of tools, spanners etc. for when it broke down.....! A real DIY kit.

 

Bob

Edited February 18, 2023 by Izzy
spelling!!!

[Izzy]

 

There have been a couple of visitors to Priory Road over the summer, their visits occurring at the same time almost as if they were planned .......

 

When BR re-built Royal Scot 46100 appeared in Clacton on a summer excusion from the Midlands in late morning and was found to be spare for some time before taking the train back in the early evening the crew were persuded to fill in on a local turn to Colchester town to help out with a loco shortage due to failure.

 

 

 

On arrival they were quite surprised to find a Jinty acting as station pilot, another loco making a short visit to Cochester shed and being put to use whilst there.

 

 

Not wanting to run tender first for the 16 mile return trip, after being released from the train by the Jinty the Scot was sent to reverse on the triangular junction just the other side of the overbridge, and by which the station is joined to the Colchester to Clacton/Walton branch.

 

 

 

 

 

A 7P loco on a local working was something a bit different for regular travellers although in later times just before electrification  Eastern Region B1's and B17's became quite common.

 

 

 

Not having the triangular junction the decision I made to convert the folding sector plate to be able to rotate through 360 degrees has proved quite useful for turning locos and such like.

 

 

 

Bob

 

[Izzy]

Where to start?

 

Circumstances have been such that I haven’t undertaken any 2mm modelling since the last week of February. At that time I had three projects on the go along with several others being developed. When things come to an unplanned abrupt stop and have to be put to one side it subsequently then becomes quite difficult to know where to restart. Trying to remember where you had got to, and which one to deal with first. This is the situation I encountered with the three projects, the Thompson non-corridor coaches, J15, and class 16 when I was recently able to resume.

 

In truth all had actually stalled in respect of needing parts. The J15 needed them producing on the lathe, all the boiler fittings and more, the class 16 2FS wheels either bought and/or again made on the lathe to progress the bogies, while the coaches needed a mix of re-working and completing to get them all to a reasonably accurate and consistent state. Since it turned out I still needed to order further parts for both locos and the Thompson coaches were the initial project to be started, finishing them first seemed to be the best choice as I already had locos they could be used with, the N7/3 and the 2MT.

 

 

Thompson non-corridor coaches in 2mm – pt 3

 

When I had stopped the brake third had been finished apart from the need to replace the roof ventilators with the correct type, having wrongly used shell ones. Due to the issues that had been raised I did consider whether I should start again with these coaches but eventually I came to the conclusion that getting them finished to as good a state as I was able was overall the best route for me even if they weren’t as truly accurate as they should be.

 

With that decision out of the way I thus dealt with the roof ventilators on the brake, fitting the very nice 3D printed ones now available from shop 4 that had arrived. Then I made the lavatory compo in the same way as I had the brake third, replacing the floors, solebars, and footboards with ones cut from brass sheet. I had actually cut all the parts for all three coaches at the start when I realised they were needed, so it was fairly quick work. Adding the door and grab handles was equally easy as I had also made all of those in the beginning. I found myself glad that I had done this as it made sure all these parts were of consistent sizes. I’m not sure I could have remembered what those sizes were and exactly how I bent them up if I’d done them in separate batches. As it was all I had to do was solder them into place using the simple little jig I’d also made from a piece of scrap etch.

 

 

 

However one issue has come to light in that I made the brake third interior out of some black plasticard and over the time since it had distorted and curled up pushing the roof up at both ends. I’ve not had this problem with the interiors made for the two 309 units but to ensure I didn’t have any further problems I ditched the interior and have made new ones out of 200gsm black card stock instead.

 

 

That just leaves the 6 compartment brake composite to make. This is actually very slightly different from the other two coaches in that they were produced late on in response to requirements for less 1st class seating and at this time rounded corners to windows were used instead of square cut. So two brakes with slightly differing styles and helping to make an interesting local passenger set although of course these coaches were used on quite long distant cross country trains such as those from Colchester to Cambridge via the Stour/Colne Valley. These short coaches seem ideal for smaller layouts and I’m really glad I decided to have some.

 

 

My basic idea is that they can be used on Priory Road to represent said Colchester to Cambridge service when composed of all three, brake third, lav compo, brake compo, and as the Brightlingsea service with just the two brakes. The J15 was envisaged as the engine on the latter service and the 2MT on the Cambridge one. An E4 for this would be nice but is perhaps a case of getting a bit ahead of myself since two other locos are other projects to be done first. But then again that might change if the fancy takes……. However, best get the brake compo done first and then the J15!

 

Bob

[PaulCheffus]

Hi

 

When I am building things I tend to make notes so that if I come back to do the same thing again I can refresh my memory. I also tend to make more parts than required so again if I want to build the same item in the future I already have some of the parts.

 

I tend to build in batches of no more than two of an item at once otherwise I find I get bored and tend to rush things. There have been a couple of exceptions to this, these being two sets of five Freightliner wagons and a rake of eight BOC tankers. The BOC tanks aren’t quite finished as I need to get the transfers printed.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Izzy]

Thanks Paul, I do think I should follow your good example and start making notes. I’ve always done this with layout wiring, produce a schematic to refer back to but never for anything else. I also find multiple builds draining and especially as anything seems to take me an age to do in recent times. In the past once I’d gathered all the info together - which I often find can be the major part  - the actual build has been done in one go relatively quickly. Now I tend to dip in and out of different projects to give me a refresh on the change is as good as a rest basis.

 

Bob

[Izzy]

Thompson non-corridor coaches in 2mm – pt 4

 

Well the coaches are now finished. Or as far as I can take them at present. The bogies have been hand painted with Revell matt black and DG’s fitted but the bodies need spray painting and this will now have to wait for spring and better and warmer weather. I won’t spray indoors with the Halford rattle cans at any time and use only them for primer even if the top coat is enamel via the Neo. But the top coat will be Halfords as well as per my other hand made ones so they have a similar colour finish.

 

 

I’m not sure if the window difference between the Brake Third and Brake Compo are that visible at normal viewing distance but the latter just seems to somehow look more modern with them.

 

 

The two together as a 2-coach branch set looks okay with the lav compo added certainly giving the 3-coach set more ‘presence’ if you know what I mean. Yet together they are only just slightly longer than a couple of Mk1’s. So ideal for smaller layouts such as mine are.

 

Bob

 

[Izzy]

 

Using DG's manually

 

I've mentioned a few times in various writings that I now use DG's manually and the question has been asked as to why, and how. So let me explain.

 

When I first returned to 2mm modelling in 2010 I spent a while trying to work out what would be the best type of auto coupling to use. Already beginning to struggle to use 3-links in 4mm as I had got older it was obvious auto couplings would be a basic requirement. Eventually I came to the conclusion as many other have that DG’s suited my particular needs best. Being able to be fitted to all rolling stock and able to couple and uncouple anywhere i.e. on straight or curved track, which not all can do. And also cope with quite tight radius if required.

 

However while they have proved to be fine as far as coupling up goes it’s been a different matter when it came to uncoupling. Now I don’t know if it’s just me but I found I wanted uncoupling points all over the place. Far more than the idea that only one or two well placed ones were all that is needed with delayed action couplings.

 

With a couple of early test layouts I made I tried both electro-magnets and under-baseboard neodymium ones raised and lowered using servos. But with just a few I seemed to spend too much time shunting back and forth in a most unprototypical manner just to get stock either split or joined. It both looked and felt wrong and not at all what I was used to.

 

So I looked at the problem afresh. What I wanted was the ease of using automatic coupling with the flexibility of 3-links, where as with the prototype stock is uncoupled exactly where it is stopped wherever it is. With models where 3-links are used then manual intervention is used. I have no problem with this, the so called ‘Hand of God’. Then it occurred to me that this was what was needed. So it is what I have adopted. No magnets of any description are thus needed keeping it all very simple.

 

When stock is where uncoupling is required I just move those to be parted slightly apart, (which is where locos that can ‘creep’ just the odd millimetre are crucial), and then ‘lift’ the loops using a tool with a thin wire which slips between the couplings so they fall back onto the delay latch, then move the loco/stock away.

 

 

 

 

 

As this is now the only way I part stock, (I first started doing this in the fiddle yard to part stock, moving them there by hand obviously, before the penny dropped),  I’m actively considering whether I could modify my DG’s and eliminate the ‘tails’ attracted by the magnets since they are no longer needed. 

 

Bob

 

 

[yaxxbarl]

Bob,

 

I've actually tried this myself with DGs many years back when running my DG-fitted freight stock on a non-magnet fitted club N Gauge layout, in this case I used a dental scraper type tool that I'd acquired from Eileen's or similar originally for the purpose of lifting standard N Gauge couplers, and with care this could be used with the DGs. I think one with a longer bit of wire turned at the end would have been better for DGs.

 

Cheers,

 

John

[Caley Jim]

I do something similar with AJ's sometimes, using a piece of wire to push one of the pair down. You have to be careful, though, and do it gently so that you don't upend the wagon in the process. 

 

Jim 

[Izzy]

1 hour ago, yaxxbarl said:

Bob,

 

I've actually tried this myself with DGs many years back when running my DG-fitted freight stock on a non-magnet fitted club N Gauge layout, in this case I used a dental scraper type tool that I'd acquired from Eileen's or similar originally for the purpose of lifting standard N Gauge couplers, and with care this could be used with the DGs. I think one with a longer bit of wire turned at the end would have been better for DGs.

 

Cheers,

 

John

 

4 minutes ago, Caley Jim said:

I do something similar with AJ's sometimes, using a piece of wire to push one of the pair down. You have to be careful, though, and do it gently so that you don't upend the wagon in the process. 

 

Jim 

 

Yes, it does take a steady hand or, oops.....!

 

I suppose I should have mentioned the little tool I currently use in case it's of interest. A small torch with a length of 0.9mm wire taped to the barrel. 

 

 

Here's a quick shot of it in use, well nearly. You'll have to forgive but there's a Mk1 horsebox on the go on the workbench today but you can see the pool of light it gives in just the right place if the light levels aren't good enough to see clearly. 

 

 

The torch was actually part of a pair of twezzers by Rolson, a kind Xmas gift from a fellow 2mm modeller one year. I believe they are still around in outlets such as the Range, QD etc.

 

 

It uses those little button cells and when I found it just unscrewed from the frame it seemed ideal for this job.

 

Bob

 

[Izzy]

 

Well the BR Mk1 horsebox seen in the previous post is now completed, and has joined the Thompson NC's in the queue waiting for spring and painting .......

 

Another nice kit from Chris Higgs Masterclass models via Shop 4 sadly now WSL. I thought it would go nicely with either the Thompsons or the other 2mm etched NPCS I have. Although I have a good mix of converted N and 2mm I try and make as much as I can to the latter. But then I also just like making stuff whatever it is even if my standards aren't wonderful.

 

Bob

 

[Izzy]

 

A class 16 pt 5

 

With the Thompson coaches awaiting painting attention has now turned to the class 16. This seemed initially to be the loco with the least work to do to reach a finished state compared to the J15 but now I wonder….

 

Having fitted the plasticard bonnet tops I did consider further soldering unwise when work stopped, but looking at all the door handles and panel grabs required on the sides I decided to see if I could make and fit them in the same way I had for the Hunslet 05 and the Thompson coaches, soldered into place from the rear. With a medium sized chisel tip on the 15w Antex this did prove possible, the heat produced not being excessive enough to affect the plastic thankfully. However with the spacers for attaching the chassis at the ends I couldn’t get the iron in to solder the end foot steps and hand rails in place. So these had to be fixed with the runny cryno I mentioned in a previous post. This was of course essential with those at the bonnet end that fit into the plastic roof anyway.

 

The top of the bonnet has a pair of access panels, exhaust ports, and a fan grill with a walkway grill over it to be able to get to the access panels, well that’s what I presume it is for. The panels and ports are bits of plasticard while the grills were made up from some mesh I had that seemed suitable. I was able to solder on a ring of brass cut from tube for the fan grill and pb wire for the walkway legs. I worry that the grill bits are a bit over scale, the mesh a bit too thick and heavy looking. I have no alternative finer mesh for comparison to judge what may look right and haven’t found any prototype shots showing the roof detail from which to make a judgement, all shots being from ground level. These grills will be added after painting so they could be replaced at any time if they prove to be too over scale.

 

 

 

The bogies have been converted to 2FS using 7mm plain disc carry wheels. These Bachmann American diesel bogies differ in design to the UK diesel ones so using the 2mm drop-in wheels made for Farish diesels isn’t possible. These locos were actually one of those early diesel classes that used spoked wheels – I don’t know if this was a carry over from steam construction times - but given the cost of the Mk5 carry wheels I want to make sure conversion was not only possible but that the spokes would been seen before getting some. As the bogies use ‘back scrapers’ for current collection I don’t know how they would work with spoked wheels either so it’s a case of one step at a time.

 

The original wheels are a shouldered stub axle type fitting into a plastic geared muff with the shoulder being 2mm dia and the stub 1.2mm. As the 2FS plain disc wheels have the standard 1.5mm stub axle some modifications were needed. The muffs needed drilling out to 1.5mm and some brass sleeves of 2mm OD/1.5mm ID fitting on the stub axles. As luck would have it I had some brass tube of the right size to use. It sometimes strange to compare the 2FS replacement wheel sets and consider that while they look completely different the diameter and flange depth is exactly the same. Since this was all a bit of an experiment I was grateful I had a spare set of these gear muffs to attempt the drilling out to 1.5mm. These were in the original white Delrin while the latest versions use black. (I presume it’s Delrin as it looks and drills like it is).

 

 

 

 

With the class 15 I made new outside bogie frames in brass and nickel silver with just some details in plastic. This was required because the frames were much narrower than the N gauge originals. The class 16’s bogies appeared quite different and wider overall so I thought that perhaps I could use the original frames with the outside details just filed off and new ones in plasticard overlaid onto them. This I judged would be much quicker and easier. With hindsight this was a mistake. It still took me a couple of days to slowly fabricate them using 5thou and 10thou Evergreen sheet. They didn’t look brilliant when basically done, but I hoped that a splash of paint and a few more details would help them pass muster.

 

 

However… within just a couple of days it became clear that they were too fragile. The 5thou exposed edges started crumbling away and they just looked really poor. Partly I put this down to the very soft plasticard Evergreen supply, Slaters is a much harder grade but not available these days in 5thou.

 

 

 

So they have been junked, the basic outer frames cut back as with the class 15 and I have started over with making them again this time in brass. This will take much longer to do – the 15’s were each composed of around 30 individual parts - but should produce ones that are more robust and hopefully will look better when done. It has to be remembered that these outer frames clip into place to retain the wheel sets so have to be strong enough to cope with the flexing involved in clipping and unclipping them. This was something I had failed to take into account when deciding to take the easy route. I am reminded of a saying from my dear old dad, a sailor in his early working life, never spoil the ship for a ha'p'orth of tar….

 

After 3 days this is the result so far, each bogie composing of 28 separate bits with more to be soldered into place before I can consider super-gluing them to the outer frame and adding any final details. But I do think they are better. Certainly more robust.

 

 

Bob

[Chris Higgs]

On 02/12/2023 at 13:47, Izzy said:

 

Well the BR Mk1 horsebox seen in the previous post is now completed, and has joined the Thompson NC's in the queue waiting for spring and painting .......

 

Another nice kit from Chris Higgs Masterclass models via Shop 4 sadly now WSL. I thought it would go nicely with either the Thompsons or the other 2mm etched NPCS I have. Although I have a good mix of converted N and 2mm I try and make as much as I can to the latter. But then I also just like making stuff whatever it is even if my standards aren't wonderful.

 

Bob

 

 

As I think I have another bag of these lurking somewhere I think WSL in this case might be for rather a long time. The etch got somewhat supersede by first the NGS plastic kit and then the Farish RTR version. Sadly none of the three options came with with either opening doors or plastic horse. 

 

Chris

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235302016923?_ul=GB&abcId=9300867&campaignid=17218284410&chn=ps&device=c&googleloc=1006622&itemid=235302016923&merchantid=115018954&mkcid=2&mkevt=1&mkgroupid=142217514411&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkscid=101&mktype=pla&norover=1&poi=&rlsatarget=pla-1405537545018&targetid=1405537545018

 

Edited December 14, 2023 by Chris Higgs

[bradfordbuffer]

On 02/12/2023 at 13:47, Izzy said:

 

Well the BR Mk1 horsebox seen in the previous post is now completed, and has joined the Thompson NC's in the queue waiting for spring and painting .......

 

Another nice kit from Chris Higgs Masterclass models via Shop 4 sadly now WSL. I thought it would go nicely with either the Thompsons or the other 2mm etched NPCS I have. Although I have a good mix of converted N and 2mm I try and make as much as I can to the latter. But then I also just like making stuff whatever it is even if my standards aren't wonderful.

 

Bob

 

Don't paint it....put it in a frame...bloody lovely all in 2mm great work