Priory Road - North East Essex in BR days

[Izzy]

 

 

A Hunslet 05 in 2mm – pt 14

 

Work has been progressing on building the new chassis. Indeed it’s all finished, runs well, and has been painted, well mostly. The general construction follows that for the original one as related in earlier posts. The difference is the frames themselves have been made using 1/64” x ¼” K&S brass strip. Although still quite thin this is half as thick again being 15.6thou. It might not seem a huge difference but in reality seems it. I did consider using 1/32” strip and dispensing with the bearings but this would necessitate using the narrower 6.4mm PCB frame strip the association supplies rather than the 7mm size. But with the latter and 1/64” strip the overall width is about 7.8mm and allows just a modicum of wheel-set side-play. It’s also less effort to drill correctly by hand. As I don’t possess a suitable small vertical drill or mill to assist with this job all drilling was carried out using my small hand held drill, so slow and patient work. Indeed marking out was done slowly and checked and re-checked to try and ensure all was as accurate as possible to avoid any mistakes. I’ve also used this strip size with my scratchbuilt N7/3 so I know it works okay and produces a strong enough chassis for my needs.

 

I spot drilled the bearing holes 0.5mm and slowly enlarged the size to 1.6mm. Then used the round file to open them up to the required size for the bearings to fit. I wound a bit of masking tape around the file at the correct size to save constant size checking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the old bearings from the mk1 chassis have been saved in case they come in handy sometime. As before the new ones were turned into slots using mostly the round file. The wheels, coupling rods, flycranks, and muffs/gears along with the motor have been reused in the mk2 version. So the new chassis has new spacers and PCB, the latter being partitioned slightly differently this time. I also took the opportunity to re-site the brake hanger holes – again drilled 0.3mm – further away from the wheels to save the hassle of bending them. In addition I made new brake hangers from scrap etch and fitted the brake shoes on them. This all gave a bit more distance from the wheels, something I wondered might have contributed to the poor running of the mk1 version, not enough clearance.

 

 

 

 

 

The wheels were fitted with the alternative crankpins. I found they were slightly less than 0.5mm and a rather loose fit in the bores which I’d had to open up to 0.55mm for the original flanged ones. I also discovered part of the flange on them had to be filed away to seat properly into the rear of the wheels as the bore is right up against the boss on the rear of the wheels being as they as of a small diameter.

 

 

 

Whether it was because they were a loose fit or something else I’m not sure but I could not get them to fix securely in place with cryno, they kept coming loose. Although I’ve read that you can’t solder these in place with the new stainless steel mk5 wheels that’s exactly what I did, and it worked okay as it had done with those I’d fitted to my N7/3. I don’t know why, just luck I suppose, or something I do differently. I do use a fairly strong 20% phosphoric acid solution as flux so that might make a difference.

 

 

 

It is pleasing to find that the running is now satisfactory, the basic standard I expected it to be in the beginning with the original chassis. What is better is that the chassis now also clears the footsteps. With the revised crankpins the over-width figure is now around 13.3mm so fitting the steps back in their original position proved possible. I did look at moving them out very slightly, just in the front of the half etch rebates they sit in, but those rebates do help seat them firmly on the footplate so I was pleased to find it wasn’t necessary. Shame I had to take them off and then put them back in hindsight. But it’s all part of the learning curve.

 

I’ve decide based on my experiences with the Lenz decoder with the mk1 chassis to obtain a Zimo MX615. I have tried it again with the mk2 and also compared it to a Zimo MX600 and I just couldn’t see any reason to continue on with it. Just a further waste of time and effort because I’d soon get fed up with the below par performance compared to Zimo/CT. I did just doing the tests. You will therefore see that the chassis PCB has been fitted with a couple of temporary bridging wires to allow running on my length of test track under DC for testing. Priory Road is only DCC and cannot run DC even for testing purposes. It did originally before I installed the hacked servos for point control but no longer.

 

At this stage I must pay tribute to a fellow 2mm association member who upon reading of the demise of the CT DCX76 immediately offered me a replacement he had to hand. This kindness and generosity exemplifies I feel the friendliness of the 2mm association and the willingness to help one another and I would encourage anybody interested in 2mm/N to become a member. The area groups if you can attend them are of great help and assistance quite beside the sterling efforts of all who run the shops and produce the parts sold through them.

 

Now that the body and chassis are completed all that remains is painting, well the body anyway, the chassis having been done, and adding the glazing and decals, weathering etc. But nearly there now nonetheless. Sadly, with the weather having started to get colder, unless we get a warm spell again I have a feeling this will now have to wait until spring. I prefer, where possible, to use Halfords spray cans for basic painting but this is only undertaken in an outdoors shed during warm weather as I have found that in colder weather the paint doesn’t key too well and can lift at times in addition to being a thicker coat.

 

 

 

 

So it may remain in the erstwhile North Somerset Light livery for the winter - with due apologies to Jerry (Queensquare). It’s rather nice to see all the detail in this state, much of which will become nigh on invisible under a coat of black, although weathering will hopefully lift some details. The downside is it develops a patina of stains which doesn’t show it in the best light. These last shots were also taken in what can only be described as not the best of weather, it’s been like it all week, raining as they say cats and dogs all day and night and seems set to remain that way for the foreseeable future.

 

Bob

 

[bradfordbuffer]

28 minutes ago, Izzy said:

 

 

A Hunslet 05 in 2mm – pt 14

 

Work has been progressing on building the new chassis. Indeed it’s all finished, runs well, and has been painted, well mostly. The general construction follows that for the original one as related in earlier posts. The difference is the frames themselves have been made using 1/64” x ¼” K&S brass strip. Although still quite thin this is half as thick again being 15.6thou. It might not seem a huge difference but in reality seems it. I did consider using 1/32” strip and dispensing with the bearings but this would necessitate using the narrower 6.4mm PCB frame strip the association supplies rather than the 7mm size. But with the latter and 1/64” strip the overall width is about 7.8mm and allows just a modicum of wheel-set side-play. It’s also less effort to drill correctly by hand. As I don’t possess a suitable small vertical drill or mill to assist with this job all drilling was carried out using my small hand held drill, so slow and patient work. Indeed marking out was done slowly and checked and re-checked to try and ensure all was as accurate as possible to avoid any mistakes. I’ve also used this strip size with my scratchbuilt N7/3 so I know it works okay and produces a strong enough chassis for my needs.

 

I spot drilled the bearing holes 0.5mm and slowly enlarged the size to 1.6mm. Then used the round file to open them up to the required size for the bearings to fit. I wound a bit of masking tape around the file at the correct size to save constant size checking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the old bearings from the mk1 chassis have been saved in case they come in handy sometime. As before the new ones were turned into slots using mostly the round file. The wheels, coupling rods, flycranks, and muffs/gears along with the motor have been reused in the mk2 version. So the new chassis has new spacers and PCB, the latter being partitioned slightly differently this time. I also took the opportunity to re-site the brake hanger holes – again drilled 0.3mm – further away from the wheels to save the hassle of bending them. In addition I made new brake hangers from scrap etch and fitted the brake shoes on them. This all gave a bit more distance from the wheels, something I wondered might have contributed to the poor running of the mk1 version, not enough clearance.

 

 

 

 

 

The wheels were fitted with the alternative crankpins. I found they were slightly less than 0.5mm and a rather loose fit in the bores which I’d had to open up to 0.55mm for the original flanged ones. I also discovered part of the flange on them had to be filed away to seat properly into the rear of the wheels as the bore is right up against the boss on the rear of the wheels being as they as of a small diameter.

 

 

 

Whether it was because they were a loose fit or something else I’m not sure but I could not get them to fix securely in place with cryno, they kept coming loose. Although I’ve read that you can’t solder these in place with the new stainless steel mk5 wheels that’s exactly what I did, and it worked okay as it had done with those I’d fitted to my N7/3. I don’t know why, just luck I suppose, or something I do differently. I do use a fairly strong 20% phosphoric acid solution as flux so that might make a difference.

 

 

 

It is pleasing to find that the running is now satisfactory, the basic standard I expected it to be in the beginning with the original chassis. What is better is that the chassis now also clears the footsteps. With the revised crankpins the over-width figure is now around 13.3mm so fitting the steps back in their original position proved possible. I did look at moving them out very slightly, just in the front of the half etch rebates they sit in, but those rebates do help seat them firmly on the footplate so I was pleased to find it wasn’t necessary. Shame I had to take them off and then put them back in hindsight. But it’s all part of the learning curve.

 

I’ve decide based on my experiences with the Lenz decoder with the mk1 chassis to obtain a Zimo MX615. I have tried it again with the mk2 and also compared it to a Zimo MX600 and I just couldn’t see any reason to continue on with it. Just a further waste of time and effort because I’d soon get fed up with the below par performance compared to Zimo/CT. I did just doing the tests. You will therefore see that the chassis PCB has been fitted with a couple of temporary bridging wires to allow running on my length of test track under DC for testing. Priory Road is only DCC and cannot run DC even for testing purposes. It did originally before I installed the hacked servos for point control but no longer.

 

At this stage I must pay tribute to a fellow 2mm association member who upon reading of the demise of the CT DCX76 immediately offered me a replacement he had to hand. This kindness and generosity exemplifies I feel the friendliness of the 2mm association and the willingness to help one another and I would encourage anybody interested in 2mm/N to become a member. The area groups if you can attend them are of great help and assistance quite beside the sterling efforts of all who run the shops and produce the parts sold through them.

 

Now that the body and chassis are completed all that remains is painting, well the body anyway, the chassis having been done, and adding the glazing and decals, weathering etc. But nearly there now nonetheless. Sadly, with the weather having started to get colder, unless we get a warm spell again I have a feeling this will now have to wait until spring. I prefer, where possible, to use Halfords spray cans for basic painting but this is only undertaken in an outdoors shed during warm weather as I have found that in colder weather the paint doesn’t key too well and can lift at times in addition to being a thicker coat.

 

 

 

 

So it may remain in the erstwhile North Somerset Light livery for the winter - with due apologies to Jerry (Queensquare). It’s rather nice to see all the detail in this state, much of which will become nigh on invisible under a coat of black, although weathering will hopefully lift some details. The downside is it develops a patina of stains which doesn’t show it in the best light. These last shots were also taken in what can only be described as not the best of weather, it’s been like it all week, raining as they say cats and dogs all day and night and seems set to remain that way for the foreseeable future.

 

Bob

 

Stunning modeling.....until the picture next to pound coin, it then becomes stunningly fantastic modeling....wow

[Izzy]

A Hunslet 05 in 2mm – pt 15

 

Just seemingly days after saying it probably wouldn’t be painted and finished until spring it has proved possible to do just that. The rain stopped, it got quite a bit warmer, silly temperatures for early November, and I was encouraged to squirt paint all over the body. After a day to rest it I was relieved to find that it had gone well. And that contrary to expectation the detail still looked quite visible. I think the worst aspect I had with this was the two stages of masking. Firstly the DG’s for the primer, which wasn’t too bad, and then the addition of the bufferbeams, which was both difficult and time consuming. I’m not quite sure why, perhaps because normally the DG’s wouldn’t be fitted, they’d usually go on the chassis but because of the deep beams had to be fitted during construction of the body.

 

 

 

Choosing the early black livery while done to match the period and other stock it will be used with as well as being fairly easy and simple to apply also had another bonus in that none of those stripey ends were involved. I really have no idea how I would have done this if I had chosen the later green livery, getting around all the detail fitted.

 

The bufferbeams were of course hand painted. Study of photos revealed that the Hunslet nameplate adorning the radiator top was painted red to match the rods/cranks/beams. What I couldn’t quite ascertain was whether the letters were picked out in black or polished. In the end I went with the former by ‘blacking’ the plate before flooding the red into the recesses. I then rubbed the plate with my finger/thumb to remove any that had covered the raised lettering. This worked well and I’m pleased with the result.

 

 

On the cab sides the early BR crest was used because the later one wasn’t applied until the later green livery. But the numbering was changed before this occurred, mainly with a small ‘D’, only later being the same size as the numbers, again when the livery changed to green. So I had to decide what numbers to actually apply. The original, 11140, or the later one, 2554 with the small D. Since the locos got renumbered in early 1959 the latter was deemed appropriate. I actually found a photo of D2550 at Stratford after being renumbered and with the small ‘D’ in front of the larger numbers. Just patch painted under the new number, well over the old one. The crests came from Fox, the numbers from an old NGS sheet I had to hand. I’d not used Fox transfers before but will in future. Well printed and sent in just a couple of days. I think the numbers are a bit pale, the same cream colour of steam stock while in colour shots I’ve seen the early diesel numbers – which these were supposed to be – were quite yellow, the same deep colour as the crest. Ah well, with a bit of weathering perhaps it will look okay. Not much I can do about them now. They were sealed with a thinned wash of matt varnish.

 

At first I intended to scrape the paint off all the window frames since they came brightly finished on arrival from Hunslet. But close study of photos revealed that as time past only the sliding side cab windows remained this way, with most of the others, back, front, cab doors, becoming dark if not painted black. So I just did the side cab ones. Glazing was acrylic sheet glued into place. I have lots of this of various thickness and colour, both clear and with a slight blue tint, salvaged from packaging. Lots of craft goods my wife gets comes in clear glazed flat packs.

 

 

After the painting had been done but before the transfers were applied as I had to wait on arrival of the Fox transfer sheet with the early BR crests since I had none, the Zimo MX615 decoder arrived from Youchoos. Luckily they had them in stock when no one else did. Excellent quick service from John Gymer as usual.

 

It’s very small. Just what was needed. As it came attached to an 8-pin socket this needed removing, the wires shortening, the lighting wires removing as not required, and those for the stay-alive adding. I filed up a new Antex 1mm tip for my 15watt iron with a small flat to help ensure easy and quick soldering. I take my hat off to those that can do this kind of work with larger and more powerful soldering irons, I just couldn’t even attempt it. I wouldn’t even want to try, it would just scare me silly.

 

 

 

My routine these days to try and ensure there are no disasters is to test the decoder via my Sprog/JMRI/Decoder Pro at every stage via the program track. I’ve made up a simple arrangement with an 8-pin socket and a Mitsumi motor to test decoders before installation. I have acquired 6-pin to 8-pin converter leads to assist here as well as spare sockets for wired decoders with no sockets although most now come with one or the other on the end of the leads for testing purposes. So on arrival to make sure it’s okay as received, (in the past I’ve had a batch of 6 Zimo MX600’s that were all DOA), tested again after removing the white/yellow lighting wires, and again after adding the blue positive and white ground wires to the relevant solder pads with the stay-alive attached. The decoder comes with the blue positive wire already attached. This actually fell off just before I started work on the decoder which was handy as I had to remove it anyway to attach the one already soldered to the stay-alive pack. Thankfully all the other wires seemed well soldered in place. Unlike many other decoders Zimo’s can be programmed quite okay with a stay-alive attached both on a program track or via POM.

 

 

 

These days most Zimo’s come configured by default to automatically adjust for most motor parameters and testing the loco on Priory Road proved it was okay, but perhaps not quite as good as it could be. I wanted to get it’s performance as close to the CT decoder locos as possible, which all of the shunters have. So they react in a very similar manner. Run at the same speed for a particular speed step etc. I try and do this with all my locos in actual fact.

 

To do this and also improve the running quality a little bit further to better suit the coreless motor I set CV9 to 51 and CV56 to 133. These are the base settings Zimo have recommended for coreless for some time now in their small decoder manual and seem to work well. A more consistent performance than the auto adjustment mode. Then I set acceleration and deceleration CV3 & CV4 to 40. And finally the start, mid and max values CV2, CV6, CV5 for a simple three point speed curve to 0, 95, and 255. Getting the MX615 was very beneficial, the difference between Zimo and all other decoder makes being like chalk and cheese in my experience.

 

 

 

I am very pleased with the final result, the loco and the way it now runs, the time and effort spent on it’s construction being well worth it. If I can I’ll try and post a video of it running sometime. Here it is in it's final state after some basic weathering with Rowney pastels.

 

 

 

This is a cruel shot of the windscreen wipers. Looks like they could do with being used!

 

 

I must thank those that encouraged me to build this loco in one way or another because I’d often considered it but never got past that point. Lastly but by no means least I should also thank Michael Edge for producing and supplying these etches in 2mm through Judith Edge kits. They are nicely etched, go together well, and are tremendous value for money.

 

Here it is on Priory Road.

 

 

 

Anyway that’s it and I hope the details of how I constructed it will be of help to anyone deciding to make one for themselves.

 

Bob

 

 

 

Edited November 13, 2022 by Izzy
correction

[bécasse]

Very nice!

 

A couple of comments, firstly all the references that I have been able to find suggest that the pre-1956 numbering on BR locos, whether steam, diesel or electric, was white as applied - but that it quickly (as within a few weeks if not days) weathered to a creamy off-white, probably as a result of the oily-rag treatment, so pale cream is undoubtedly best for a model. Secondly, more study of the photographs of diesel shunters than might be good for me suggests that the red buffer beams weathered quickly and were rarely, if ever, cleaned so those on your model do need rather more weathering. Incidentally, red coupling rods could weather so fast that it was sometimes difficult to tell that they were red.

[Izzy]

3 hours ago, bécasse said:

Very nice!

 

A couple of comments, firstly all the references that I have been able to find suggest that the pre-1956 numbering on BR locos, whether steam, diesel or electric, was white as applied - but that it quickly (as within a few weeks if not days) weathered to a creamy off-white, probably as a result of the oily-rag treatment, so pale cream is undoubtedly best for a model. Secondly, more study of the photographs of diesel shunters than might be good for me suggests that the red buffer beams weathered quickly and were rarely, if ever, cleaned so those on your model do need rather more weathering. Incidentally, red coupling rods could weather so fast that it was sometimes difficult to tell that they were red.

 

Thanks. 

Yes, I thought the same until I came upon this colour shot at rail-online.

https://www.rail-online.co.uk/p580086503/h270888A6#hb0826ee

I must admit it's the only colour shot I've seen of these in the BR black livery, and some aspects could lead you to conclude that the film stock repro might be suspect, but the other shades seem correct i.e. the Class 31 behind. So I kind of wondered if the early diesel shunters like these received a different shade of numbering, or if it was a local shed one-off. This was Norwich in apparently '62. The crest is certainly a funny colour as well. And the D is the same size as the numbers. Quite late for one of these to remain in the black.

 

I do hope to deal with the bufferbeams and rods similar to this one at some stage. Weathering isn't a strong point of mine these days in this scale, I tend to do an overall look and hope for the best!

 

Bob

 

[Bryn]

Outstanding work Bob, from beginning to end! I've really enjoyed this build and I fully appreciate the effort to write this up as the build progressed. Thank you! 

[Izzy]

13 hours ago, Bryn said:

Outstanding work Bob, from beginning to end! I've really enjoyed this build and I fully appreciate the effort to write this up as the build progressed. Thank you! 

 

Thanks Bryn, it's been more of an effort than I realised to do it alongside the build, probably the greater amount of time, so I’m grateful you feel it's been worthwhile.

 

Bob

Edited November 14, 2022 by Izzy
spelling!

[bécasse]

2 hours ago, Izzy said:

 

Thanks. 

Yes, I thought the same until I came upon this colour shot at rail-online.

https://www.rail-online.co.uk/p580086503/h270888A6#hb0826ee

I must admit it's the only colour shot I've seen of these in the BR black livery, and some aspects could lead you to conclude that the film stock repro might be suspect, but the other shades seem correct i.e. the Class 31 behind. So I kind of wondered if the early diesel shunters like these received a different shade of numbering, or if it was a local shed one-off. This was Norwich in apparently '62. The crest is certainly a funny colour as well. And the D is the same size as the numbers. Quite late for one of these to remain in the black.

 

I do hope to deal with the bufferbeams and rods similar to this one at some stage. Weathering isn't a strong point of mine these days in this scale, I tend to do an overall look and hope for the best!

The loco in this photo was delivered from Hunslet in green so it has to be green in the photo*. It was renumbered at Melton Constable, presumably by a signwriter who wrongly used yellow paint, the large D could be, and was sometimes, used where it would fit on a cabside. The yellow paint colour is a red herring as far as you are concerned as your loco remains in its original black even though it has been renumbered (at whatever its depot was at the time - Parkeston?).

 

This photo (penultimate thumbnail), which actually shows an 03 in green at Pickering, gives an excellent impression of how the buffer beam and casings (and also coupling rods) should be weathered on a loco that hasn't been repainted (or overhauled) for years. I would use a very diluted wash of black paint, doing each surface laid horizontally at a time and allowing the paint to dry before moving on to the next, then when all four are dry I would give each a dusting of a dark coloured powder.

 

I imagine that you have seen this photo (second thumbnail) which depicts your prototype in black before it was renumbered in 1959. The renumbering would have to have been done at a depot for it to remain black but that wasn't uncommon. The electrification flashes were added (normally) at depots in mid-1960.

 

* You are not alone in making this mistake, a similar error (in respect of an 08) can be found in this month's Model Rail.

Edited November 13, 2022 by bécasse

[queensquare]

2 hours ago, bécasse said:

The loco in this photo was delivered from Hunslet in green so it has to be green in the photo*. It was renumbered at Melton Constable, presumably by a signwriter who wrongly used yellow paint, the large D could be, and was sometimes, used where it would fit on a cabside. The yellow paint colour is a red herring as far as you are concerned as your loco remains in its original black even though it has been renumbered (at whatever its depot was at the time - Parkeston?).

 

This photo (penultimate thumbnail), which actually shows an 03 in green at Pickering, gives an excellent impression of how the buffer beam and casings (and also coupling rods) should be weathered on a loco that hasn't been repainted (or overhauled) for years. I would use a very diluted wash of black paint, doing each surface laid horizontally at a time and allowing the paint to dry before moving on to the next, then when all four are dry I would give each a dusting of a dark coloured powder.

 

I imagine that you have seen this photo (second thumbnail) which depicts your prototype in black before it was renumbered in 1959. The renumbering would have to have been done at a depot for it to remain black but that wasn't uncommon. The electrification flashes were added (normally) at depots in mid-1960.

 

* You are not alone in making this mistake, a similar error (in respect of an 08) can be found in this month's Model Rail.

Can we not just celebrate the fantastic job Bob has done on this and, more importantly, the not inconsiderable amount of work he has undertaken to write up the build rather than this constant need to find fault. It is unnecessary and frankly just dreary.

 

Jerry

[Matt.S.]

Lovely work Bob - it's been good to read along the trials and tribulations that are usually overlooked in build threads. 

[Ian Morgan]

12 hours ago, queensquare said:

Can we not just celebrate the fantastic job Bob has done on this and, more importantly, the not inconsiderable amount of work he has undertaken to write up the build rather than this constant need to find fault. It is unnecessary and frankly just dreary.

 

Jerry

 

I don't think the model was being critisised. He was just pointing out that the photo on the rail-online site was, in fact, in green livery rather than black.

 

 

[Chris Higgs]

20 hours ago, bécasse said:

The loco in this photo was delivered from Hunslet in green so it has to be green in the photo*. It was renumbered at Melton Constable, presumably by a signwriter who wrongly used yellow paint, the large D could be, and was sometimes, used where it would fit on a cabside. The yellow paint colour is a red herring as far as you are concerned as your loco remains in its original black even though it has been renumbered (at whatever its depot was at the time - Parkeston?).

 

This photo (penultimate thumbnail), which actually shows an 03 in green at Pickering, gives an excellent impression of how the buffer beam and casings (and also coupling rods) should be weathered on a loco that hasn't been repainted (or overhauled) for years. I would use a very diluted wash of black paint, doing each surface laid horizontally at a time and allowing the paint to dry before moving on to the next, then when all four are dry I would give each a dusting of a dark coloured powder.

 

I imagine that you have seen this photo (second thumbnail) which depicts your prototype in black before it was renumbered in 1959. The renumbering would have to have been done at a depot for it to remain black but that wasn't uncommon. The electrification flashes were added (normally) at depots in mid-1960.

 

* You are not alone in making this mistake, a similar error (in respect of an 08) can be found in this month's Model Rail.

 

Yeah, green it is, you can see that where they have cleaned around the numbering. The rest basically might as well be black, it appears just to be covered all over in grime.

 

Nice Stratford 'skinhead' 31 behind! Perhaps your next task?

 

Chris

Edited November 14, 2022 by Chris Higgs

[Izzy]

3 hours ago, Chris Higgs said:

Nice Stratford 'skinhead' 31 behind! Perhaps your next task?

 

Already done Chris, a white-roofed Stratford job which can be seen in the Blue running sequence a few pages back now.  I do have another project on the go though, still steam era related, but I won't be doing a build sequence on it/them, too much involved. As Jerry intimated a huge amount of effort involved, I ended up taking over 300 shots for the 05. Easy with digital  .... but it's the rest of it that takes the time.

 

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

[Izzy]

Here's a video of the Hunslet 05.

 

 

Bob

Edited November 14, 2022 by Izzy

[bradfordbuffer]

34 minutes ago, Izzy said:

Here's a video of the Hunslet 05.

 

 

Bob

As smoth as a cold can of fosters after been in the outback all day!.....

(all CAMERA members calm down! Other beverages are available.....just a saying 🤨 can feel there warm half pints of rusty ferret quivering in there clenched fist...)

[Sithlord75]

No one in the Outback drinks Fosters.  We send that p*** over there!!

[bradfordbuffer]

6 minutes ago, Sithlord75 said:

No one in the Outback drinks Fosters.  We send that p*** over there!!

upset the corduroy camera members and the southern hemisphere 🤨

Suppose I couldent give a XXXX! YELLOW CAN RED LETTERS....before I get a ban! It was advert for wife beating juice from 90s🤣

[Roy L S]

I really enjoyed watching the build, truly inspiring work and such incredible skill especially given it was all done with hand-tools, 

 

I am an N gauge modeller and it is work like this that really illustrate the difference between it and 2mm scale.

 

Roy

[Izzy]

9 hours ago, Roy L S said:

I really enjoyed watching the build, truly inspiring work and such incredible skill especially given it was all done with hand-tools, 

 

I am an N gauge modeller and it is work like this that really illustrate the difference between it and 2mm scale.

 

Roy

 

Thank you Roy, that's nice of you to say. I was rather hoping that by just usng a few basic tools for the build it might encourage others to give it a go, making a 2mm loco. That it doesn't always require expensive machine tools to model in this scale when making a piece of rolling stock such as a loco. Useful to have, but not essential, and especially with the range of parts the 2mm association produce with the aim of making it unneccesary.

 

Bob

 

 

 

[Clive Mortimore]

On 14/11/2022 at 21:56, Izzy said:

Here's a video of the Hunslet 05.

 

 

Bob

Wow.

[2mm Dabbler]

8 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Wow.

Succinctly put Clive. Zero hesitation, smooth as silk and steady as a rock. Detailed to "what's the scale again?" Says a lot about Bob's trackwork too. 

 

Michael

[bécasse]

Just to provide a reference for someone tempted to follow in Bob's footsteps, here is a clipped ColorRail shot of 11167, a slightly later 05, in its original green. I reckon that, at most, no more than seven 05s were delivered from Hunslet in black, what became D2554 being one of them, of course. The colour rendering of the slide is probably over emphasising the yellows, note the tail lamp which would have been dirty white, but the painted number is undoubtedly cream rather than white; the black locos would have had painted numbers in white though.

Edited November 17, 2022 by bécasse

[Izzy]

@bécasse That's interesting. I must confess I never realised that the first batch of these 05's were delivered in anything other than black. I've always worked on the basis that the early crest was applied to black diesels and the later to green. I believe many others thought the same. All the photos I've seen up to now seemed to support that. Obviously we were wrong! Not sure I like them at all in this shade of plain green - if it's in any way accurate, I suspect not as you say.  So I'm glad I stuck with the black.

 

Bob

[Nigelcliffe]

4 hours ago, bécasse said:

Just to provide a reference for someone tempted to follow in Bob's footsteps, here is a clipped ColorRail shot of 11167, a slightly later 05, in its original green. ......The colour rendering of the slide is probably over emphasising the yellows.....

 

And here's the same image after I put it through my attempt at colour correction (Hue-Saturation inside GIMP). 
I may not be correct, but it looks a lot closer to what I'd expect to see (lamp colours, woodwork around cab door window, aluminium window trim, likely shades of red (may be slightly under on the red), etc.. : 

 

 

Thanks for posting the colour image, its very useful to know that many of these arrived in green with the old lion-on-unicycle, rather than painting everything black !

 

- Nigel

 

 

[Izzy]

A steam era Branch set

 

Now that the Hunslet 05 is completed I’ve been further considering how to portray the late steam era. Still puzzling out how to concoct a running sequence that seems logical and plausible. At this stage the Brightlingsea branch was of course still open as it was during the early DMU years. It occurred to me that having a steam era branch set to run, one that could also alternatively represent the service to Cambridge might be a good idea, a winter project which I had originally thought the Hunslet would be.

 

After studying lots of photos of the period I’ve settled on making a set of Thompson non-corridors, a brake composite, semi-lavatory composite, and 4-compartment brake third. Something different to Gresley stock. These will be produced from Worsley Works etches with 2mm association bogies etc. For the loco it was a toss between an E4 and a J15. In the end the latter won as I don’t believe E4’s ever worked the Brightlingsea line while the J15’s were seen on all the branches in the area. This will be scratchbuilt using spare Farish wheels I have to hand, a bit of an experiment, a challenge to see if I can re-rim them. If not then mk5’s will be on the cards always assuming I can make the rest of the loco. If the loco doesn’t work out then the Thompsons will go quite nicely with the N7 as an alternative Clacton/Walton line set. They featured a fair bit in photos at St Boltophs and along the branches. I’ll post the odd update as things progress.

 

To start the updates here’s where I’m up to with the J15. Not having actually built a tender loco in 2mm before I thought it best to begin with the tender. This is because the GE 2,640gal one used with the J15’s has a challenge with regard to the flared tender top in that the rear corners are rounded. If I couldn’t get that done there wouldn’t be any point going any further. I also wanted to sort out in my mind how the motor would fit and the type of UJ joint used, and whether I would once again need to use one of the Zimo MX615’s as space in the small tender seemed to indicate no other could fit.

 

I’ve managed to make the basic tender including those flared corners and while the jury’s still out regarding the UJ’s it seems an MX615 will be needed. With twelve wheel current collection however I don’t envisage the need for a stay-alive, so there is some space to add some weight.

 

 

 

 

 

I've sat the motor higher than I originally though so the drive shaft goes through the tender coal hole. Sadly however the wheel size and placement means the tender can’t hang on the back of the loco to aid traction, the leading wheels would foul the bodywork if raised beyond the axle centreline as there’s minimal clearance to start with. Bit of a shame really but never mind, I’ve just got to stuff as much lead in the loco as I can!

 

Bob