Chippenham - The Work Bench

[wagonman]

PS: The Radstock Coal Co also had a depot at Chippenham though no locally branded wagons (they didn't do that sort of thing) and nothing from the Gloucester company. The area was a bit of a blank in the GRC&W sales map – there were a couple of customers on the Carne branch but of them Neate emigrated to Australia in 1912 and Pinniger had given up the coal business by 1920ish.

 

Cunning ploy – if you want to know about the Radstock Coal Co wagons I'm afraid you'll have to buy the book on Somerset PO wagons too! As coal from Somerset collieries was sold at Chippenham that may not be a bad idea anyway, except that there weren't many Gloucester customers there either.

[Compound2632]

3 minutes ago, wagonman said:

As coal from Somerset collieries was sold at Chippenham that may not be a bad idea anyway, except that there weren't many Gloucester customers there either.

 

But there are a couple of kits from Cambrian for the indigenous Wheeler & Gregory wagons - of rather antique appearance but still in traffic in the twenties I should think?

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Thank you I have these already made up, using pictures of Chippenham station and the Calne Branch for reference of owners. All are solid spoke which is why it had suddenly occurred to me that they probably should be open spoke although now looking at the models it seems that it is near impossible to notice open or solid once in place and especially running.

 

Edited January 29, 2022 by Bluemonkey presents....
Add the picture

[wagonman]

Ah yes, looking good, though I repeat my remark about Walter Neate having emigrated ...

 

Stephen (Compound2632) has already mentioned the Wheeler & Gregory kits available from Cambrian. You were more likely to bump into one of their products than anything from Gloucester. Though W&G went bust in 1904, the works were taken over by the British Wagon Co who continued to produce wagons to the same design for a few years longer – definitely plenty around in the 1920s.

 

Any more than that you'll have to cross Mr Lightmoor's palm with silver.

 

 

Edited January 29, 2022 by wagonman

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Thank you everyone for your knowledgeable comments and assistance. I have taken everything on board and will get that pending order in.

 

My layout is to be based in the 20s for track plan and buildings mainly but I have stock from a very wide time frame from late 1890s to 1940s so hopefully this allows for all the companies to be modelled. I have a few items that will have to be 'licensed' but they are things I would like to see running on my future layout. However there are many aspects that are exact references to what ran or would be expected to run through Chippenham.

 

Thank you all once more for your assistance it is very much appreciated.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Here's the single plankers for the stone quarry mid build. Was planning on adding the transfers before putting the planks onto the chassis but after reviewing the painting and decided I would potential destroy the transfers through additional handling so went the standard way and do the paint job prior to transfers.

 

 

Whilst checking stock of wheels I came across a pair of plastic Mansell coach axles that I had been holding for the fish wagons. Once I had completed the open 6 wheeled fish wagons I tested them against some random point work and they consistently derailed. Could not work out why this would happen except maybe the 6 wheel arrangement was causing a little trouble. Remembering I had some plastic sets from the siphon C builds I grabbed a couple and put them to one side for problem solving (hopefully). Found them now and the flange is to be removed and replace the metal central axles hoping the wheels will now act as a standard 4 wheel wagon with a flangeless central set. Fingers crossed this alleviates any future problems when (if) I get my layout under construction.

 

 

Filing and shaving with the knife edge certainly gives you sore fingers even for just the four wheels.

 

Decided to use individual medium chain links for the tethering hoops of the WW1 military horse open wagon. This and the manure tarp to complete the outstanding builds before the breakdown project.

 

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Plastic, reformed Mansell wheels are in and look convincing on a flat [piece of track. Will have to be tested if/when I get to lay some track but that will not be for some time I guess.

 

Couldn't find the motivation to start the scratch build project so I turned to something I had tried to squeeze in over Christmas and failed. Whilst ordering the transfers for the riding coaches I noticed a set of J S Fry's transfers for a Tevan wagon, albeit having a different running number to that of my source picture. Spotting a decide and very reasonably priced Parkside kit on 'that site' I decided to have a go. The kit weeks to arrive due to postal delays so effectively missing the time slot I had in between plans. I left it on the bench in full view in order to maintain intrigue and interest. This worked, as I am waiting for the final transfers for the WW1 open horse wagon and a lack of 'push' for the riding coaches I dived in. Should be a nice weekend little conversion I thought! With that the decades switch and we have gone from discussing the finer points of open spokes verse solid spokes in the late 1800s/early 1900s to a conversion of 1930s of a late 1920s prototype.

 

The prototype runs on Mansell wheels, luckily enough I have a pair. This does raise the riding height of the wagon but not enough for me to worry about major chassis surgery. I have used my trusting piece of track and some of the recently 'finished' wagons to judge this.

The picture shows the V hanger and DC brake levers in completely different places to the kit. A little slice here and there and those details are moved. This actually make the build a little more straight forward than the original kit plans for the gear. The vacuum cylinder is also different being central rather than off centre as per kit. Again an easy repositioning. The important bit is that all the repositioned pieces work together and any cross rigging will not be impeded. I have left this over night for the cement and softened plastic to reform and go off before adding any of the brake rigging.

 

 

What really cut against the grain was the removal of the lovely moulded details as cast by the kit manufacturer and the filling of all the locating points for the addition detailing i.e. roof vents, hand rails and end steps. This Tevan Chocolate wagon is a converted Mica B and generally a much simpler version of the vehicle. Although the removal of the door handles to be replaced with brass wire is a must (and not difficult or dangerous to the existing detail), something I regret not doing on my previous Mica build. I built this to the instructions as I did not have the confidence to adapt things at the time. However please don't get me wrong I am really happy with the Mica and certainly would not change it now or even consider replacing it.

The mouldings were removed carefully skimming a scalpel blade under each at plank level and lightly sanded. All the locating holes in the ends and roof filled using a plastic filler, sanded back, filled again. A final sanding before spraying in primer to highlight any high/low areas or anything else that needed attending to.

The sides had the same treatment but the planking groves required opening out where some had filler as the holes were located mid-point of the grove or where mould plate detail sat across two planks. Again the use of primer to highlight these are prove invaluable.

 

 

Further inspection identified the need to remove the buffers and replace with non-ribbed housing. I must remember screw couplings and vac pipes. I have been resisting the remove of the moulded door bangs but I feel this is more laziness shrouded in concern over the planking finish and how to add new ones than any real modelling concerns. So a new day brings fresh eyes, there are to be removed from the base of the wagon sides and new ones fashioned in the correct locations as per picture (I should have shown this first really, I guess);

 

   Source; J H Russell's Great Western Wagons Appendix, Oxford Publishing Co.

[Mikkel]

Another interesting project Matt. A chock absorbing van 

 

1 hour ago, Bluemonkey presents.... said:

I left it on the bench in full view in order to maintain intrigue and interest.

 

Ah, nudging for modellers. Funny how we learn to manipulate ourselves!

 

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Had another go at the some of the plank gap detail as I felt I had removed too much filler and the holes started to be visible once more. Removed the moulded buffer housings drilled out locating holes for the new details.

 

  

 

Added the whitemetal brakes that replace the central single brakes to the double shoed ones. Got a little nervous soldering the brass rigging to the whitemetal but made a decent effort I guess. Well it is going to be completely black and under so it will do. I dont know much about brake rigging (well much about railways in general) so workign blind from the picture I have.

 

 

I am having to use Smiths couplings this time round rather then my preferred Slaters couplings as I need screw not 3-link. This example is of the unassembled screw couplings. The 'screw' is a brass pin that once pushed through the central thingy has to have the end flatted to keep it secure. The shackles required shaping as a U and then located to the pips on the centre thingy with the brass spin. Then whacked onto the hook. The shaft of the hook is much larger than the Slaters type but more importantly the hole on the kit, so this needs to be widened in order to push the assembled coupling through. Best done at this stage rather than trying to open up the holes when nicely painted as the drill and/or knife is bound to slip. Nice end result for the coupling though.

 

[Graham T]

That does look good, but I think I'll go for ready assembled ones, thanks very much!

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Here we are then the completed Mica to Tevan conversation;

 

 

Now for the pair a Mica B I built from the same kit as per instructions compaed to the Tevan conversation from a picture reference. Not keen on how the varnish has yellowed on the original compared to the new wagon. 2 years ish and stored away from any light let alone direct light, bummer. Ride height is not too far out which is decent.

 

   

[Bluemonkey presents....]

And so it begins. Been a long time since I scratch built anything other than parts for kits. Here's my bundle of parts for the project.

 

 

Looks like a nice day for modelling  

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Slow start, as with most plans (modelling at least) else got in the way. Thought I could bend the ends for the unwanted length to make buffer beams rather than cut it off.

 

 

Spent far too long trying to work out the brake gear rigging and finally ended up with this currently half made up. Very fiddly to solder those little pulley things, wire and cranks, next time I certainly would go for the glue not solder and a pair of binoculars. Extra cross braces through the middle to support the brass where the push outs have been removed.

Seems the idea about using the extra length as the buffer beam may not work as I have to drill out the buffer locating holes and the coupling slot. This will be easier with a fresh piece of brass to then solder in place.

Decided to remove the flaps on the body side of the chassis. These are normally used to locate sides of the coach (I think) but as my wagon/coach sits directly on the top I need the space the folds are taking. After removing them I cleaned up the edge, reduced the length and soldered them back close to where they started. These will be used to locate and fix the body against something instead of just fixing to the chassis. This should create a better and more robust anchor point.

The instructions do tend to presume the builder as some pre-existing knowledge so basically from here I am making it up as i go along as I have no idea. Bit messy but all will be hidden anyway. The rest of the vacuum detailing will have to be glued, as I am unable to get the iron close enough to the whitemetal detail parts to fix them.

 

  

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Decided to take the plunge and drill out buffer and coupling locating points rather than add an extra piece of brass. A gentle bending after freeing the solder joint with the iron and hey presto holes drilled/cut and a more bending back and reapplying the solder joint we have ends.

 

  

 

White metal detailing added and the bogies folded and soldered, just need to add the shoes to the brakes and to work out what to use for the clearance between the bogie centre and the chassis. This can be thought about whilst moving onto the body. 

 

[MrWolf]

You can buy very thin brass shim washers in BA sizes and different forms, such as an oversized O/D which can also be used to shim the buffers to the right height.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Horse transport wagon now complete, just needs the final coat of varnish and couplings. Hopefully will be tying down the manure wagon tarp to complete this tonight.

 

 

Chassis of the bogie riding wagon/coach is now finished. the bogie nuts soldered in place (this I normally foul the thread with solder). Spacers on located between the bogie and chassis  6mm high! I used some plastic tubing for now but in the future will have to find something more suitable, probably a couple of brass fly wheels  

 

 

Just need to prime and paint black. Next bodywork. 

[Mikkel]

Hi Matt. You never rest, do you! 

 

Very inspiring conversion work and detailing - as usual. The horse transport wagon is my favourite. What does the roping on it do? I had a look but don't think you have mentioned that before.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

49 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

Hi Matt. You never rest, do you! 

 

Very inspiring conversion work and detailing - as usual. The horse transport wagon is my favourite. What does the roping on it do? I had a look but don't think you have mentioned that before.

 

Thank you, brain doesn't but my hands are lazy. The rope is for the horses, the lead rope and to secure them whilst in transit. I really should have pictured this as well but forgot. The interior doesn't really show that well from the outside unless looking down on the wagon, probably due to the raise height of the sides.

 

[Mikkel]

That last photo really triggers the imagination, including all the things that could go wrong! 

 

Nice painting of the horses. The hay at the bottom is a nice touch, makes a big difference.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Thank you @Mikkel I know what you mean. I think the horse would have been really squashed in to help reduce risk factors and to carry maximum loads. Each side of the wagon has 8 tying points. I Also think they may have been in side ways facing, as if looking out a carriage window, again to achieve maximum capacity but I could not model this with the access I had inside the wagon.

I have not found any evidence of this but does seem the most logical approach.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Flipping over to the completion (ish) workbench and here's the Dia R manure wagon sheeted and roped ready for couplings and storage. A pleasing result but glad not many in servcie.

 

  

[MrWolf]

That's an inspiring and unusual model, have to say you've made a cracking job of it, even if what's under the tarpaulin looks like a load of shi......

[Bluemonkey presents....]

8 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

That's an inspiring and unusual model, have to say you've made a cracking job of it, even if what's under the tarpaulin looks like a load of shi......

 

Many thanks I appreciate your thoughts. I have always said my modelling is sh!te now I have proof.

[MrWolf]

Really good sh1t in fact.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Chassis finished. Just a teaser with part of one of the resurrection wagon sides to see if all works nicely. Think so.

 

 

As you can see work has started on the wagon/coach body. My lack of computer skills evident here