Bridport Town - Carrying On

[DLT]

At Warley we had an electrical problem appear, with the big toggle switches starting to fail.  I was pleased to find you could still get the same item, but when the "new" ones displayed the same problem, realised the quality must have dropped off in the intervening years.  Going over to miniature toggle switches would have meant a whole new panel, as the holes were too big.  So (no I haven't gone DCC) I've replaced them all with slide-switches.

 

They are going to need a spot of bright paint on them to assist seeing their position.

 

 

[DLT]

Whilst everything was dismantled to access the control panel, I decided to sort out something else that had been bugging me for a long time.

Having raised the height of the loco shed & works to allow taller locos in, I hadn't done anything about the doors.  Consequently they were clear of the ground by about a scale foot.

 

Now fabricating replacements from plasticard, I scribed a piece of 1mm on both sides (long enough to make four doors) to represent 6-inch planks. 

Now building up the internal framing with Evergreen strip, 1mm x 3.2mm (1/8 inch)

[Stubby47]

An alternative to new doors could be a rubber flap at the base of the original doors.

[jamest]

Hi David,

 

What tool do you use to scribe your lines, they look clean and effective. Whenever I try that I find a scalpel, or blade, cuts well along a ruler but tends to be a very narrow relatively deep cut. If I use a tool that is more of a ‘vee’ it creates a wider notch but is more difficult to control.

 

I’m guessing there is no magic solution and you have to be careful.

 

And skillful!

 

Regards

James

[Tim Dubya]

5 hours ago, jamest said:

What tool do you use to scribe your lines

 

I use one of these myself.

 

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/plastic-scriber-ii-tamiya-74091-p12642

 

@MrWolf also used to score thicker sheet plastics before snapping to get a nice clean line on the material 👍

 

Edited February 16 by Tim Dubya
Image

[RodneyS]

I have an Olfa cutter which is similar.

The blades actually remove a little 'curl' of plastic with hardly any pressure needed.

Rodney

[DLT]

Thanks very much guys, I will describe my method later.  Off to the beach with the dog now.

[DLT]

First things first, when scribing plasticard I never use a knife.  As has been said, it cuts in and forms ridge on each side.  Great for cutting-out, but not for scribing.

I start by ensuring that the edge of the sheet is straight and square, and then the first scribe is done using the jaws of my digital caliper gauge held against the edge, and pulled left to right.   

Advancing the gauge by your desired plank width each time (3.5mm in this instance) ensures consistent planks.  (This is WAY quicker and easier than measuring, marking, and cutting against a straight edge)

 

 

This actually cuts away the surface, rather than forcing it aside as a knife does.  This will throw up burrs and swarf, so then I push some form of scraper over the surface (6-inch rule in this case) which clears off some burrs and/or pushes the rest back into the groove.

 

Then its time for the Olfa cutter/scrawker (as mentioned by Rodney and Tim) to be drawn GENTLY along the groove (we are not trying to cut through)  This will clear out the remaining burrs and cut slightly deeper.

 

If you've still got some burrs, it can be used at an angle to clean off the edge of the groove.

 

 

Finally some form of sanding/emery-board etc, for a final clean up and to get rid of the shiny surface.  A coarser one could give you a bit of grain effect as well.

 

Whatever you do, you want a groove without a raised ridge on each side.  Here's a comparison between finished grooves and freshly scribed with the caliper.

 

That all sounds a bit long-winded, but I assure you it isn't, you get pretty quick at it.  Also you don't HAVE to go through all these stages, its whatever works for you.

I really recommend the digital caliper to start with, SO much easier than measuring, marking, and cutting against a straight edge.

Hope this helps!

Cheers, Dave.

[Tim Dubya]

Digital caliper for me from now on! 

[DLT]

With the doors cut to width, but left over-length at the bottom, hinge pins were added.  These are just right-angled bits of brass rod, a push-fit into a hole drilled horizontally into the door from the edge. 

Measuring from the top, the new doors match the old, so should fit the shed without any adjustment.

 

 

The other part of the hinge consists of a vertical short length of brass tube, with two horizontal bits of rod soldered to it.  These are then a push fit into horizontal holes in the doorframe.

The hinge-pins on the door then just drop into them.

 

 

Finally the bottom of the doors are carefully trimmed, a little bit at a time, until they are just clear of the railhead.

 

 

And structurally, that's about it.  Its all detailing now, hinges and other metalwork on the doors, a bit of graining and distressing, and building up the threshold and shed floor.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited February 17 by DLT

[MrWolf]

That looks so very precise Dave, as much engineering as modelling.

I hadn't thought to use my digital calipers to scribe with. I have some cheap and cheerful 150mm ones on the modelling bench, ( Genuine Snap-Off tools...) I'll give them a go. I'll be leaving the calibrated Mitutoyo ones down in my workshop though!

 

Another tool you may be aware of is the "Odd leg" or "Jenny" caliper. I've used them for sheet metal work for years and they're remarkably accurate, plus on plastic, they will plough out a groove rather nicely.

 

https://www.machine-dro.co.uk/moore-and-wright-125mm-5-jenny-odd-leg-hermaphrodite-calipers-341r

[jamest]

Hi David,

 

Thanks very much for taking the time to explain your process so clearly. A few really good common sense tips there.

 

I’ve seen those ofla cutters mentioned before and have one…..just never really had much luck with it. Your method makes sense…..I’ve been trying to do it all with the ofla.

 

Thanks again….and great work on those doors….including hanging them!

 

regards

James

[DLT]

19 hours ago, MrWolf said:

Another tool you may be aware of is the "Odd leg" or "Jenny" caliper.

Thanks for that Mr.Wolf.  I have used an Oddlegs before, but I don't have one now.  The can get into spaces where the caliper can't.

Also, my caliper is one like this:  on Amazon  and certainly not a top-quality Mitutoyo product.  Just as well too, as I spilled Mekpak over it a while back...

[DLT]

8 hours ago, jamest said:

I’ve seen those ofla cutters mentioned before and have one…..just never really had much luck with it. Your method makes sense…..I’ve been trying to do it all with the ofla.

Hi James,

Yes I start with the caliper, and then continue with the Olfa.  If you are careful the Olfa will follow the scribed line.

 

Of course, this method only works with plasticard.  When I use cardboard for fixed door on buildings I scribe them with a knife.

Edited February 18 by DLT

[MrWolf]

25 minutes ago, DLT said:

Thanks for that Mr.Wolf.  I have used an Oddlegs before, but I don't have one now.  The can get into spaces where the caliper can't.

Also, my caliper is one like this:  on Amazon  and certainly not a top-quality Mitutoyo product.  Just as well too, as I spilled Mekpak over it a while back...

 

My caliper is a "Raydou" (No, I've never heard of them either...) Cost two fags and a balloon from eBay. It's accurate enough for the modelling bench.

My other one was a real bit of luck. I was working for that little firm who make everything from Vauxhalls to Cadillacs and asked if I could get my personal set calibrated. They failed dismally by their standards* and I was given a brand new pair from the tool stores on the understanding that I put my old ones in the vice before they went in the bin!

 

 

*I suspect that some bright spark had used them for an adjustable spanner.

[DLT]

Tools for adding hinge/metalwork details.  60x10thou (1.5x.25mm) Evergreen strip is embossed using screw dividers set to your desired bolt spacing.

 

 

 

The resulting curved strip is straightened by drawing it though your fingertips, and then fixed to the door with Mekpak.  Whilst holding it with fingers, use a MINUTE amount of solvent, just enough to hold it in place without gluing your fingers and leaving a massive melted fingerprint in the door....  Then add more solvent and align it with a straight edge or set-square.

 

I have already done a bit of texturing, adding graining with some light scribing, and/or coarse sandpaper.  Also a bit of distressing along the bottom of the doors where damage might occur, or the planks would rot. 

How far you take this depends on how old and decrepit you want it too look.

[DLT]

Progress on the shed entrance, with "threshold" and steps down to the concrete floor.  All done with stripwood, one I found some the right size.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now need to subtly build up the ground/ash level around the entrance to hide that step up.  And try not to make it look too contrived.

The doors haven't fitted perfectly, as the shed has acquired a somewhat prototypical lean over time, and the entrance isn't square.

[MrWolf]

That's a very thorough and well thought out job and there's no reason to think that raising the ground level up to the threshold of the shed would look contrived, as it would prevent water running into the building. Even a section of concrete with diagonal run off grooves cut into it if it's a posh shed!

 

As for the lean, perhaps a prop or two might be needed?  

 

 

Photo: Bishop's Castle Railway Society.

[DLT]

Many thanks Mr.Wolf.  There's "ramshackle", and then there's "Bishops Castle"....

Bridport is meant to look cheap, but not TOO cheap.  The loco depot is based on the original shed layout on the Vale of Rheidol, but it's grown a few extensions to make it a bit more substantial.

Edited February 25 by DLT

[MrWolf]

A shed is never big enough, you always need extensions and lean tos (or lean aways in the case of the Bishop's Castle) 

Perhaps they could be classed as a "sub shed"? 

It certainly makes the building more interesting and typical of such facilities.

 

As for the BCRly, I'm surprised that Tacitus didn't mention it in The Germania. 😆

[DLT]

Painted the doors and built up the groundwork.

 

 

 

Looks ok, but I think I've overdone the weathering on the doors.  I'll have another go at it.

[GWR57xx]

The weathering looks excellent to me, in keeping with the state of the green wriggly tin and the rest of the scene.

[Jon Gwinnett]

If I can make a suggestion, the doors don’t look overdone to me, but I wonder if each might not be more chipped where they are slammed into the posts?

Edited March 4 by Jon Gwinnett

[DLT]

Thanks guys, here a comparison between old and new:

 

 

The overscale functional hinges cause a large gap where the doors meet the frames.  However they spend most of the time open so this isn't obvious.

[steve45]

Hi Dave, 

 

I've sent you a PM about an exhibition invitation, not sure if you have read it?

 

Regards

 

Steve