DrDuncan's 3D workbench

[Andy Keane]

30 minutes ago, drduncan said:

Yes, I’d been thinking along similar lines. I intend to try printing windows in clear resin too, just to see what the results are like.

D

I suspect laser cutting will be way cheaper if you do batches and also thinner and clearer? But interesting to see. 
The other thought is painting bolections - might it be worth printing them separately to aid painting?

Edited April 18 by Andy Keane

[stevel]

55 minutes ago, drduncan said:

Yes, I’d been thinking along similar lines. I intend to try printing windows in clear resin too, just to see what the results are like.

D

Look forward to seeing the results of clear prints, the other method I want to try is using microscope glass, making a slot inside to hold it in place.

[drduncan]

8 hours ago, Andy Keane said:

I suspect laser cutting will be way cheaper if you do batches and also thinner and clearer? But interesting to see. 
The other thought is painting bolections - might it be worth printing them separately to aid painting?

In 4mm they will be too small to print I’m afraid. It might work in 7mm but they would be very fragile. 
D

[Slanjonok]

For clear resin I would recommend ResinOne G217. It’s expensive, but you won’t use it for so many parts.

I tried other ones before. Beside a lot of printing issues, I have noticed that the resin turns yellowish during final curing. There are different recommendations to redo this by further treatment, but I just did not use these resins further for glazing.

I don’t have any issues with a-m one.

Generally, all clear resin become like frosted glass after washing. Again, there are different recommendation how to solve that, but my way is to paint the parts with transparent acryl paint. However, there are cases where the frosted glass comes handy – street lanterns for example, or if the motor is arranged just behind glazing.

[tom s]

After noticing how superglue retains the reflective finish of microscope glass on a failed project, I wonder if there is a potential to use them to create a glassy finish on clear prints.
Sandwich a dot of resin between the print and a slide, cure it, then pop the glass slide off and clean the edges?

[Andy Keane]

6 hours ago, drduncan said:

In 4mm they will be too small to print I’m afraid. It might work in 7mm but they would be very fragile. 
D

I was thinking of printing the whole set of bolections as a single strip to go in after painting?

[Harlequin]

9 minutes ago, Andy Keane said:

I was thinking of printing the whole set of bolections as a single strip to go in after painting?

Yes, I've been thinking about that kind of solution to bolection painting as well:

1. Print the bolections as one piece with a support framework to give them strength and to hold their relative positions accurately.
2. Paint them.
3. Glue the whole painted print to the glazing plastic.
4. Cut away the framework.
5. Fit to coach.

 

Edited April 19 by Harlequin

[Andy Keane]

13 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

Yes, I've been thinking about that kind of solution to bolection painting as well:

1. Print the bolections as one piece with a support framework to give them strength and to hold their relative positions accurately.
2. Paint them.
3. Glue the whole painted print to the glazing plastic.
4. Cut away the framework.
5. Fit to coach.

 

Indeed - this seems like a great plan.

Andy

[drduncan]

A broad gauge ballast spreader to take some of the ballasting pain away following the less than successful use of wood ash.

 

Duncan

[stevel]

7 hours ago, drduncan said:

A broad gauge ballast spreader to take some of the ballasting pain away following the less than successful use of wood ash.

 

Duncan

Very neat spreader 👍

[drduncan]

So I’ve been experimenting with the art of the possible. I’ve been wondering about sheeting rings and hooks for wagon sheets and the reproduction of them in 4mm.

 

I found these rather small eyebolts via Cornwall boats.

 

They are probably slightly overscale but I was thinking of adding a 0.5mm diameter ring from 5amp fuse wire.  Alternatively the etched eye could be rotated and bent up/down as needed to represent the ring on a much smaller eye bolt…

 

 I also bent up a tiny sheet hoot from 0.3mm brass wire. I actually made three hooks and lost 2… And of course modified the CAD of one of my wagons to provide mounting sockets…

 

So does the body of the church approve and would they want this included with future wagon prints (and existing CADs for prints revised in due course)? Or is the juice not worth the squeeze? 
 

All options and suggestions gratefully received!

 

Regards

 

Duncan

[Andy Keane]

I think the little hook would be my choice - I think the eye bolt is a bit too noticeable.

Andy

[Schooner]

30 minutes ago, Andy Keane said:

I think the eye bolt is a bit too noticeable.

In 4mm, from 2' away?! Your eyes are better than mine young man!

 

@drduncan, I think updating the prints would be worthwhile: those that don't care won't care; those who go in for that level of detailing anyway will appreciate the aid; and muckers like me on the slippery slope will be persuaded to at least have a go.

 

Fitting an off-the-shelf eye, with the source detailed in the instructions, into a pre-marked hole is no harder than fitting buffers or a coupling hook (so I tell myself!). Easier in some ways, as there is a degree of assumed knowledge around such things among kit manufacturers. Attaining this knowledge for those of us not members of a club etc is currently the highest hurdle to clear on the journey from RTR-only to kit building, I've found.

 

So from that PoV both eye and hook mounting sockets (even if just a divot to drill out) would be welcome in this quarter.

 

Apart from all that - the wagon looks ace! Looking forward to seeing it service :)

 

 

[MikeOxon]

Small details in 4mm scale are, in my opinion, always difficult to manage.  Such things are often better if 'suggested' rather than faithfully scaled - bearing in mind that an inch in the real world is only 0.33 mm in 4 mm scale.

 

Having said that, I'm not sure what size the real rings are, since I'm in the 'impressionist' camp 🙂

[Schooner]

I was just thinking along this lines @MikeOxon, and think that my position is that scale would unusable to most, whereas these (I suggest, on the evidence only of that one pic) both look at the part and are the part.

 

It's always a compromise, and we'll all have our spot on the spectrum, but I've a soft spot for 'real, only smaller' rather than 'beautiful scale recreation', which will be at work here.

 

A potential challenge to @Compound2632's reasonable view that the wagon and load are one, perhaps!

[billbedford]

1 hour ago, drduncan said:

So does the body of the church approve and would they want this included with future wagon prints (and existing CADs for prints revised in due course)? Or is the juice not worth the squeeze? 
 

All options and suggestions gratefully received!

 

 

Sheeting rings were about 4-6 in diameter and were held in place with an eyebolt whose hole was only slightly bigger than the wire thickness of the rings. They were arranged so that the rings hung down below the eyebolt parallel to the timbers they were fixed to. 

This was usually the solebar, but on iron framed wagons the curb rail was used. 

[drduncan]

1 hour ago, Andy Keane said:

I think the little hook would be my choice - I think the eye bolt is a bit too noticeable.

Andy

Ah but the hooks go on the end and the rings on the side…

D

[billbedford]

But if you bend the stem of the brass etchings through 90º and mount them on the wagon with the stem at the top, you would get a good representation of a sheeting ring. All it would need is a tiny spot of glue at 12 o'clock to represent the real eyebolt...

[drduncan]

I have been looking at as many clear close ups of 3 planks I can find (not as many as I’d like to be honest). So my rough conclusions are that sheeting rings and hooks were random in their application - there were 3 per side or end, but whether they were rings or hooks (or a mix) is the random aspect. 
 

I do, however, have an idea for a bending jig that may make the production of the tiny hooks a bit easier. I hope that this afternoon I’ll get some time to CAD it.

 

Regards

 

Duncan

 

Edited May 5 by drduncan

[drduncan]

So I have continued with the experiment of adding stupidly small and fiddly details…

 

I have added all 3 rings on one side

You’ll also note the horse hook at the left hand end which I will definitely make a jig for as it took 6 different sized staples mage up of 0.3mm wire.

 

Here is sheeting hook option one. It is bend you from the unused/excess leg of the sheet ring. I made a jig for it and you only need three hands to manipulate it. It is now superglued to a corner of DrDuncan’s patent one man portable workbench so that those not blessed with an extra hand (myself included) can use it without dropping it about 12 times.

 

And here is option 2 for a sheeting hook. Bent up using 0.3mm brass wire

 

And finally option 3 for sheet hooks: bent from 5amp fuse wire using the aforementioned jig:

 

Views, comments and suggestions? I think the 5 amp is the best looking hook, but also is the one most likely to succumb to over enthusiastic roping, The 0.3mm won’t bend out of shape but is a swine to bend up even using the jig.

 

Duncan

Edited May 18 by drduncan

[Mikkel]

I would go with the 5 amp, for the looks - and because bending up small bits that resist bending is frustrating.

 

But I forgot - you intend to supply all these lovely details already bent up, yes? 🙂

[drduncan]

14 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

I would go with the 5 amp, for the looks - and because bending up small bits that resist bending is frustrating.

 

But I forgot - you intend to supply all these lovely details already bent up, yes? 🙂

Thanks. 

 

And no I won’t be unless you pay a substantial premium!

 

D

[Schooner]

4 hours ago, drduncan said:

...likely to succumb to over enthusiastic roping...

Surely not, as the wagon sheet is clearly neatly folded in a corner....otherwise the rings would be rotated by 180, pulled up on their fastenings by the tension of the sheet lines, right?!

 

I agree, smallest (5A wire) looks best. Gently suggest small items like the hooks can be formed in the end of a longer wire to form the angle and then cut down to size...? % wastage may be high, a couple mm is still just a couple mm!

 

Seems like the jig is really the crucial bit. What it gets used for sounds like a problem for the customer :)

[drduncan]

52 minutes ago, Schooner said:

Surely not, as the wagon sheet is clearly neatly folded in a corner....otherwise the rings would be rotated by 180, pulled up on their fastenings by the tension of the sheet lines, right?!

 

You just bend the ring up, not down and then get busy with the tweezers and thread…

D

[stevel]

These little details are the making of a great model. The only way I see to bend the hooks, is to do them oversized and cut the excess off.

 

Stephen