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Long Lane Signal box LYR ( weathered )


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  • 2 weeks later...

here photos of the box now weathered and with interior.

longlane2009-1.jpg

 

 

longlane2010-1.jpg

 

 

longlane2016-1.jpg

 

 

longlane2008-2.jpg

 

 

longlane2013.jpg

 

 

<a href="http://s823.photobucket.com/albums/zz153/shawbridge_photos/?action=view&current=longlane2012-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz153/shawbridge_photos/longlane2012-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

 

cheers.

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  • RMweb Gold

hi ian,

Thanks for your comments,

the windows were formed by fixing microstrip to the clear plastic with mek-pak using a mek brush.

 

I had a feeling you'd say something like that. In other words, conventional techniques requiring precision cutting and fitting! That famously sorts the men from the muddlers. I shall be giving it a go.....

 

Thanks!

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Hi Poggy,

cheers for your favourable comments, its pretty much guess work with regard to the colouring and weathering as the photo was in black and white but looking at the photo you can get a good estimate of what it would look like in real life colour.

 

cheers

 

Peter

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Very nice indeed. Cracking finials, Grommit!

 

Is your weathering done using an airbrush or dry brushing?

 

As has been mentioned before, buildings tend to get ignored a bit by a lot of railway modellers. I tend to feel the same sometimes with steam subjects - diesels and the modern scene seem to be the in thing! Please be assured that I always enjoy looking at your output though.

 

Best wishes,

 

Michael

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Hi Mike,

Thanks for your kind comments, york locomotive, an unusual name would that be the name of the very large signal box?

Out of interest how big is that in 7mm scale?

 

cheers

 

Peter

 

 

I'm not sure of the exact length, but an estimate, counting windows, brings it to around 100-110 ft. 295 levers in one frame.

 

Now that would be a challenge, but I think you're up to itblink.gif .

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York Locomotive locking frame was actually 300 levers long, there was a 5 lever "Gap" in the middle to allow access to the observation platform. The locking frame would be 125ft 6ins in length, to this add approx 6ft at each end plus a wall thickness of roughly 12ins each end. Total length, and for round figures 140ft plus access steps etc at both ends, call it 170ft. 4mm scale = 2ft 3ins or 7mm scale = 4ft. Mick Nicholson.

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Hi 57xx,

I prefare to use the dry brush method for a structure like this as you need absolute control of wahat you are doing especially were athere are a lot of windows

to avoid.

After the initial paint colour is dry i apply matt black under the bargeboards and sills and at the base of the structure, you will notice pale areas in the centre of the main frame boards, this is acheived with matt white to give the tarnished effect of the cream colour going off.

I also find that matt white tends to lift out the base colour to give it a 3 Dimensional effect, i use this method often when creating a road surface ect.

I guess thats the jist of it but worth baring in mind that i don't often use the paint neat for the finish unless it is for an out of the paint shop look.

As a safe bet it is worth refaring to the photograph you have to work from rather than your imagination.

Hope that shed's some light on it.

 

cheers

Peter

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for that Peter. I have several buildings in N gauge that I need to attack with the weathering. The monotone slate roofs look so bad, I hope I can recreate something similar to yours.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi I K b,

The slates are formed from quality computer printing paper by means of forming a grid pattern to the correct size then cutting into strips then with a blunt knife cutting 3/4 way up to represent the ilusion of individual slates, its all old hat of course but i find it quicker and reasonably effective.

The sltes are fixed directly onto the plastic roof former with liquid poly then dry brush painted a couple of times rather than neat paint.

The weathering was also dry brushed on.

hope it makes some sense.

 

cheers

 

Peter

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Superb model, GT. Very nice, very nice indeed!

 

A question or two:

 

Regarding the windows:

I assume the apertures are cut out then glazed before adding the Microstrip frames?

What glazing material did you use?

 

TIA,

 

Don

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Hi Miss Prism,

You are right i am told by a reliable source that these boxes were very cold in the winter and like a greenhouse in summer.

a friend of mine who is a signalman told me that in the winter the draft would come up through the floor of the lever frame and you could here the rats underneath.

cheers

 

 

hi 2wo dee,

you are correct with your assumtions, i cut out the apertures first then add the clear plastic, that being whatever i can get hold of at the time, the glazing bars are Evergreen stip glued directly onto the clear plastic with Mek-Pak.

cheers

 

 

Hi Modelmaker87,

cheers for that Tony, perhaps see you at Wigan if you are over.

cheers

 

 

Hi Signalmaintainer,

I am sorry but there are no interior views, the interior was very basic just putting in the esentials, pot boiler, i think 6 levers a phone a chair, that kind of thing and i beleive it will be accomodated on a small 7mm scale shed layout called Long Lane based in the Lancashire area.

cheers.

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Hi Modelmaker87,

cheers for that Tony, perhaps see you at Wigan if you are over.

cheers

 

The plan is to be at Wigan, flights are booked etc. Steve needs me along with the rest of the WFRM crew to set up the expo, we help WFRM2 every year. Look forward to seeing you.

 

Later, Tony

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  • 1 month later...

Hi I K b,

The slates are formed from quality computer printing paper by means of forming a grid pattern to the correct size then cutting into strips then with a blunt knife cutting 3/4 way up to represent the ilusion of individual slates, its all old hat of course but i find it quicker and reasonably effective.

The sltes are fixed directly onto the plastic roof former with liquid poly then dry brush painted a couple of times rather than neat paint.

The weathering was also dry brushed on.

hope it makes some sense.

 

cheers

 

Peter

 

Fantastic work - please keep posting it - how do you do the ridge tiles?

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