Aston On Clun. A forgotten Great Western outpost.

[MrWolf]

4 hours ago, JustinDean said:

I wouldn’t be so sure!

I haven’t got the foggiest what folk are on about here half the time. 
 

Jay

 

It's far worse in the outside world. That's where people don't understand what you're on about.

You get remarks like "How do you know all this stuff?" Or, "How old are you really?" all in tones that imply you're making it up.

 

I read, I have a go at things that interest me, or have had to learn to do things because I couldn't afford to pay someone else to do it!

 

Miss R is often subjected to the "How can you know that at your age?" routine. I actually got fired from a job in my twenties because my boss kept trying to catch me out with jobs he was convinced I was telling porkies about being able to do and I kept proving him wrong.

[MrWolf]

A trip to the art shop drew a blank, foam board they have, but in no greater dimensions than A3, the big stuff apparently always gets mangled in transit.

 

No, the proprietor doesn't look like a mad cat lady or someone who got left behind at Woodstock...

 

She did give me an idea when I explained what I was trying to do and the best part about it is it will cost b****r all...

 

I'll post pictures once I've ####ed it up, ####ed it up again and finally arrived at something workable.

 

I'm also going to have to rope in the memsahib to get all the bits lined up and stuck together.

[Nick C]

26 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

 

It's far worse in the outside world. That's where people don't understand what you're on about.

You get remarks like "How do you know all this stuff?" Or, "How old are you really?" all in tones that imply you're making it up.

 

I read, I have a go at things that interest me, or have had to learn to do things because I couldn't afford to pay someone else to do it!

 

Miss R is often subjected to the "How can you know that at your age?" routine. I actually got fired from a job in my twenties because my boss kept trying to catch me out with jobs he was convinced I was telling porkies about being able to do and I kept proving him wrong.

That's another one that gets me - the idea that you shouldn't do stuff yourself, and should just pay someone else to do it. Like you, I've had to learn quite a few things out of necessity (such as maintaining a car - no way I could have afforded to keep one at University if I'd had to pay for mechanics), and found that it's usually far more satisfying to learn how to do something, and to be able to look at it afterwards and say "yep, I did/made that"

[MrWolf]

That's probably another reason why so many of us go about railway modelling in the way that we do.

To create something ourselves that is more than an assembly of ready made items, even then, you need imagination and creativity to make it work.

I enjoy making things anyway, but I enjoy the idea of setting out to create something where I'm not certain that it will work out. It's most rewarding when it does and a lesson learned when it doesn't.

[Podhunter]

On 22/12/2021 at 19:27, MrWolf said:

the dynamo will generate enough power to be able to see safely where you're going at half that speed

If the bike electrics are 6v, then it's more likely an alternator, with a large selenium plate rectifier to convert a/c to d/c.  The alternator is good for 12v, and you can substitute the selenium rectifier for a solid-state one with less electrical loss.  A 12v supply will help improve your lighting and you can substitute LEDs for some bulbs, such as the flashers and side-lights.

[MrWolf]

11 minutes ago, Podhunter said:

If the bike electrics are 6v, then it's more likely an alternator, with a large selenium plate rectifier to convert a/c to d/c.  The alternator is good for 12v, and you can substitute the selenium rectifier for a solid-state one with less electrical loss.  A 12v supply will help improve your lighting and you can substitute LEDs for some bulbs, such as the flashers and side-lights.

 

The generator fitted to most British motorcycles (and the one in question) between 1945-55 is the Lucas E3LM, regulated by the Lucas MCR2 mechanical regulator.

 

 

The dynamo runs only the lights and horn and trickle charges the battery. The ignition system is run separately by a high tension rotary magneto, so the bike will still start and run with a flat, or no battery. 

Although these units are long in the tooth, they are very reliable and infinitely repairable.

Where the system falls down is the regulator. Although the dynamo is capable of 28 volts unregulated, the regulators are wound to 6 volts only.

A way round this is to fit a modern solid state rectifier regulator inside the case of the old unit. These are designed to run 6 or 12 volts by snipping one wire.

The only downside to this is that the solid state regulators are rather like DCC chips, there are many on the market that purport to do the same job and don't.

If the solid state regulator (same price as repro mechanical ones) goes pop, all you can do is see how far you can throw it.

Also, they aren't too keen on vibration, which is a key part of most old bikes.

I've gone back to the MCR2 on the Triumph, because I had one, but am continuing the experiments with solid state regulators on one of the BSAs.

Alternators with seperate regulators come in on larger bikes in the late 50s, particularly when the makers were chasing police contracts where more battery capacity was needed to power radio telephones and wind sirens.

A number of my friends have been experimenting with LED bulbs with mixed results. Okay in headlights, but can't be trusted not to self dismantle in tail lights.

Again, quality is a big issue.

 

Indicators?

 

What are they? 

 

[57xx]

31 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

The ignition system is run separately by a high tension rotary magneto, so the bike will still start and run with a flat, or no battery. 

 

My RD250E was like that, the CDI was powered separately from the rest of the 12v circuit, two different stator coils. One day the bike started blowing headlight bulbs and fuses every trip, so the next weekend I decided to take a look at the electrics. When I came to get the battery out, I wiggled it in to position to undo the terminals and then noticed one wire had snapped and wasn't even connected! It had started first kick every time, just it always did and once running everything worked electrically, apart from the bulbs blowing after a while.

[John Besley]

2 hours ago, MrWolf said:

That's probably another reason why so many of us go about railway modelling in the way that we do.

To create something ourselves that is more than an assembly of ready made items, even then, you need imagination and creativity to make it work.

I enjoy making things anyway, but I enjoy the idea of setting out to create something where I'm not certain that it will work out. It's most rewarding when it does and a lesson learned when it doesn't.

 

Thats why I enjoy a challenge building in the scale I do as everything I plan is pushing into unchartered water, if it doesn't work out then 'rip it up and start again'...

[MrWolf]

1 hour ago, 57xx said:

 

My RD250E was like that, the CDI was powered separately from the rest of the 12v circuit, two different stator coils. One day the bike started blowing headlight bulbs and fuses every trip, so the next weekend I decided to take a look at the electrics. When I came to get the battery out, I wiggled it in to position to undo the terminals and then noticed one wire had snapped and wasn't even connected! It had started first kick every time, just it always did and once running everything worked electrically, apart from the bulbs blowing after a while.

 

The old East German MZ had a similar system (Not surprising as MZ's top rider defected to the west by turning up at Suzuki's workshop on the Isle of Man with a big pile of MZ factory drawings!) As the diode packs aged you could get a short that either killed the ignition or blew the bulbs. On British machinery, the ignition generator (magneto) is an entirely separate (and subsequently costly) unit.

Except for all those Villiers powered two strokes which had a flywheel magneto with one winding for the high tension and one or two more for the lighting.

This was fine with a battery and regulator but the "direct lighting" bargain basement models that worked like a bicycle, sans battery could put upwards of 10,000 volts at 0.5 amps through the light bulbs if there was a short in the winding insulation. You had to make sure that the light switch was turned to "OFF" when kicking the bike over. Once running, there was no chance of a lost spark.

Sitting at a junction ticking over, the headlight is like a cigarette lighter. As soon as you pull away, it's almost bright enough to see where you're going!

[MrWolf]

37 minutes ago, John Besley said:

 

Thats why I enjoy a challenge building in the scale I do as everything I plan is pushing into unchartered water, if it doesn't work out then 'rip it up and start again'...

 

What scale do you work in? Something that calls for 90% scratch building like S scale?

 

It's perhaps why I choose the subjects that I do, rather than a modern image main line. I can go I see that whenever I want, but by the time I was born branch lines and steam engines actually working for a living were long gone, so I have to create my own.

[John Besley]

21 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

 

What scale do you work in? Something that calls for 90% scratch building like S scale?

 

It's perhaps why I choose the subjects that I do, rather than a modern image main line. I can go I see that whenever I want, but by the time I was born branch lines and steam engines actually working for a living were long gone, so I have to create my own.

 

7/8ths on 0-16.5 track... Exhill Works... apart from track everything is scratch built, figures are resign castings

[MrWolf]

19 minutes ago, John Besley said:

 

7/8ths on 0-16.5 track... Exhill Works... apart from track everything is scratch built, figures are resign castings

 

That's not one I've come across. Feel free to post up a picture.

[John Besley]

17 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

 

That's not one I've come across. Feel free to post up a picture.

 

Here you go...

Look for my thread Exhil Works ...

 

 

 

Hope these are alright

[John Besley]

Bit of a work in progress, the corner shop building has just shy of 3500 scribbed bricks in plaster on a plywood frame

[MrWolf]

I like the brickwork, looks very damp and frost damaged.

I like the workshop interior too, old school electrical fittings and a lack of signs everywhere.

Will the stationary engine have a tin roof on stilts eventually?

[John Besley]

46 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

I like the brickwork, looks very damp and frost damaged.

I like the workshop interior too, old school electrical fittings and a lack of signs everywhere.

Will the stationary engine have a tin roof on stilts eventually?

 

That's still out for the jury, O might well build some semblance of a work in progress to give the impression that a roof is being built as a full size roof would hide all the detail.

 

This was built around a drain pipe and Wilesco traction engine parts powered by the 'dummy' generator 

[chuffinghell]

15 hours ago, John Besley said:

 

Here you go...

Look for my thread Exhil Works ...

 

 

 

Hope these are alright

Wonderful stuff!

[Gedward]

16 hours ago, John Besley said:

Here you go...

Look for my thread Exhil Works ...

 

Modelling par excellence.

 

[MrWolf]

Not much modelling done over the weekend, but I did get to a small model train sale not far away. I didn't think that there was much to inspire, the variety available and pricing was much as you would expect, but I had a dig around and got a result!

 

 

An undamaged Airfix autocoach, later version with Mainline type couplings. It was covered in black dust but responded to running under the tap. I have detailing and flush glazing kits for one of these somewhere!

 

 

An early wire axle Tri-ang clerestory brake with a yard brush paint job. The roof was glued on, but it's responded to the attentions of Miss R and a penknife as before.

 

I've got two donors in this state now. If anybody knows a way to remove old model enamel?

 

The rest of the haul was a pack of Gibson short handrail knobs, a 247 Developments brake standard, a pair of Romford sprung screw couplings and a pack of Gibson Hull & Barnsley wagon brake levers for my butchered Smith's crisps van.

 

I spent a whopping £12. Nobody was more surprised than me, well, the memsahib was, because I insisted on showing her the price tags.

 

I'm sure they do the same thing to us, insist on showing us the price of the genuine bargains so they can slip the expensive stuff under the radar! 

 

 

images lost.

 

 

 

Edited September 5, 2022 by MrWolf

[Winslow Boy]

27 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Not much modelling done over the weekend, but I did get to a small model train sale not far away. I didn't think that there was much to inspire, the variety available and pricing was much as you would expect, but I had a dig around and got a result!

 

 

An undamaged Airfix autocoach, later version with Mainline type couplings. It was covered in black dust but responded to running under the tap. I have detailing and flush glazing kits for one of these somewhere!

 

 

An early wire axle Tri-ang clerestory brake with a yard brush paint job. The roof was glued on, but it's responded to the attentions of Miss R and a penknife as before.

 

I've got two donors in this state now. If anybody knows a way to remove old model enamel?

 

The rest of the haul was a pack of Gibson short handrail knobs, a 247 Developments brake standard, a pair of Romford sprung screw couplings and a pack of Gibson Hull & Barnsley wagon brake levers for my butchered Smith's crisps van.

 

I spent a whopping £12. Nobody was more surprised than me, well, the memsahib was, because I insisted on showing her the price tags.

 

I'm sure they do the same thing to us, insist on showing us the price of the genuine bargains so they can slip the expensive stuff under the radar! 

 

 

 

 

 

Excellent bargains. Just don't make the same slip up i did and forget to change the receipts the next time your proving how frugal you are.

 

Cant help with the paint removal I'm afraid Rob but I'm certain one of the band will be able to you supply some pointers/advice.

Edited January 9, 2022 by Winslow Boy
BL...day autocorrect

[JustinDean]

Going to be tricky removing that paint from plastic. Nitro more and paint stripper I would reckon will attack the plastic before the paint. 
 

Jay

[CoombeTown]

33 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

I have detailing and flush glazing kits for one of these somewhere!

 

Sounds like a good plan Rob. I've used the laserglaze and dart castings detailing kit on mine and it makes a decent model at the end.

 

I confused my other today as I returned from the Frome show without any purchases. Only because I'm having to mail order it instead...

[MrWolf]

9 minutes ago, JustinDean said:

Going to be tricky removing that paint from plastic. Nitro more and paint stripper I would reckon will attack the plastic before the paint. 
 

Jay

 

I have chucked such things in brake fluid in the past, but unlike DOT 3, the modern versions are some sort of limp d*** chemical that doesn't attack paint. 

[MrWolf]

7 minutes ago, DRoe96 said:

 

Sounds like a good plan Rob. I've used the laserglaze and dart castings detailing kit on mine and it makes a decent model at the end.

 

I confused my other today as I returned from the Frome show without any purchases. Only because I'm having to mail order it instead...

 

Hopefully it's a small enough parcel to go unnoticed! 

 

I know they're considered a bit of a cliché (They shouldn't be, the GWR branch line was overtaken by several other modelling subjects twenty odd years ago!) but I do like an autotrain.

 

I've got a 14XX that actually works and will be backdated and an equally good but damaged BR liveried version that will become a late condition 517 class. 

[Winslow Boy]

Not certain but what about lime juice. We used to use it to remove graffetti on park notice boards as it didn't damage the plastic underneath. No we didn't squeeze limes before you ask it came in a spray.