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Chuffnell Regis


Graham T
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The blue cast to the light is interesting - I still use fluorescent tubes, though they will have to be replaced with LEDs as and when they pack up. The tubes I use are 'daylight' types and the light is definitely cooler than that used by most people but I like it. However it's not that blue. Perhaps 'cool white' is the way to go for those of us who don't like the bright sunny day look?

 

Looking like this at the moment and would like to keep it more or less the same...

 

Lighting.jpg.5ed115820a4f1c9cbcf05806188c159c.jpg

 

 

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Making slow but steady progress with the fiddle yard.  Lots of firtling was required to get a smooth connection to the scenic section.  Once the glue has set under the tracks it will be time for the moment of truth - testing!

 

 

image.png.4545dda539cc3d1ceb8280f8c5528db5.png

Edited by Graham T
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This is taken using just Ladmanlow's lighting, which comprises two strips of cool white 4000k LEDs. One in front of the layout edge, shining horizontally inwards, and the other in the middle shining vertical but slightly backwards. As you say, colour is a very subjective thing, but I've been happy with these both for photography and general viewing.

 

ladmanlow901b.jpg.b5c82453c952f6b020b1ea08582402ed.jpg

 

Al.

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14 hours ago, Alister_G said:

This is taken using just Ladmanlow's lighting, which comprises two strips of cool white 4000k LEDs. One in front of the layout edge, shining horizontally inwards, and the other in the middle shining vertical but slightly backwards. As you say, colour is a very subjective thing, but I've been happy with these both for photography and general viewing.

 

ladmanlow901b.jpg.b5c82453c952f6b020b1ea08582402ed.jpg

 

Al.

 

 

That's a cracking photo; everything looks superb.  But I especially like the road surface, it looks like worn out tarmac and chippings.  How did you do that part Al?

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36 minutes ago, Graham T said:

 

 

That's a cracking photo; everything looks superb.  But I especially like the road surface, it looks like worn out tarmac and chippings.  How did you do that part Al?

 

Thanks Graham.

 

It is a thin layer of "N" scale Woodland Scenics ballast laid over grey emulsion paint, and then sanded back a bit with a sanding block when completely dry. The verges are burnt umber artist acrylic paint with static grass applied in patches.

 

Al.

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It lives!  The fiddle yard is now temporarily wired up until I get some male-female connectors for it.  I'm going to build a removable barrier for the end next - just in case ...

 

 

image.png.cb716f769324f7f28aec0063f874ac6d.png

Edited by Graham T
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This is how the fiddle yard would look with the third section added.  That would make it a lot more useful, as it could then hold a three-coach train and loco.  I think it would be robust enough without legs at the right-hand end, but I really need to do some testing before I commit to it (and of course it would have the gate at the far end again).  At the left hand end it connects to the scenic section with bolts that feed into holes drilled into the end of the baseboard, so I'm not worried about the fiddle yard actually tipping, but there might be an issue with flexing.  I'm not sure about that; it looks and feels sturdy enough ...

 

 

image.png.9b1a4c6341963414692bb3105e39bc1f.png

Edited by Graham T
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I would be tempted to add a diagonal stay from the right-hand support to midway along the 3rd board, just to help ease the strain on any connecting bolts. Two locos at the end of the board would have quite some leverage. 

 

And some wasp-strips on the board sides.

Edited by Stubby47
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11 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

I would be tempted to add a diagonal stay from the right-hand support to midway along the 3rd board, just to help ease the strain on any connecting bolts. Two locos at the end of the board would have quite some leverage. 

 

And some wasp-strips on the board sides.


I couldn’t agree more, perhaps a vertically hinged stay off the end of the base unit (in the same finish) that can be neatly out of the way when not in use?

 

781953D0-7B88-45E0-926A-C8B281FF23E4.jpeg.917bb45b59cf448bbfbe4810dc53131f.jpeg
 

Poor sketch done on my phone

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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26 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

I would be tempted to add a diagonal stay from the right-hand support to midway along the 3rd board, just to help ease the strain on any connecting bolts. Two locos at the end of the board would have quite some leverage. 

 

And some wasp-strips on the board sides.

 

Good point Stu, thanks.  What are wasp-strips?  Black and yellow warning stripes?

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23 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:


I couldn’t agree more, perhaps a vertically hinged stay off the end of the base unit (in the same finish) that can be neatly out of the way when not in use?

 

781953D0-7B88-45E0-926A-C8B281FF23E4.jpeg.917bb45b59cf448bbfbe4810dc53131f.jpeg
 

Poor sketch done on my phone

 

 

Excellent idea Chris, thanks.  And your poor phone sketch is still way better than what I can turn out on my computer!  I need to get a Mac equivalent of MS Paint, but am struggling to find one.

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I had a bit of a brainwave (!) regarding a support for the fiddle yard.  I'll fit a small block at the bottom edge of the chest of drawers, so it won't be very noticeable, and then just put in a removable stay between there and the underside of the fiddle yard.  So that it forms a triangle, if that makes sense.

Edited by Graham T
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So, I got a new strip of LEDs, which are adjustable between 3000k and 6000k.  I've taped them in place, along with the previous 'blue' light strips.  At the moment there are two runs along the pelmet of the new 3000k strip and four runs of the 'blue' strip.  I have another set of the new LEDs as well, so can add a further two runs if I need to.  These pictures are taken in daylight, but they do give some idea of the different colour temperatures.  I'd be interested to hear what anyone thinks of these.  I'll do some more tinkering this evening, once the sun has moved away from the railway spare room.

 

'Blue' light only

 

 

image.png.f1cc7ee150f8c214844792e86613420d.png

 

Blue light and 3000k lights at same time

 

 

image.png.790228fda3c446d1e807bcfcf758210e.png

 

3000k light strip only

 

 

image.png.cd74131b327b5d5a57e11f9f31ebedb2.png

Edited by Graham T
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1 hour ago, Graham T said:

I'd agree with that, but as I say I'll check again this evening when it's dimmer in the room.

 

Are you going for a new look?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

image.png.bdd258e1e82950b5cb6c42235a0af8af.png


having finally being able to get through to the GP surgery the nurse practitioner has prescribed me some strong antihistamine and a antibiotic ointment as a precaution against cellulitis…..I’d prefer a parrot and a patch though aaaaarrrrrggggg

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Interesting. For your camera, it appears as though the 3000k on their own give the best results, but I wonder if for your eyes it looks best with the combination of both?

 

I'd be intrigued to see the same shots in darkness with just the LED strips illuminating it.

 

Al.

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3 hours ago, Alister_G said:

Interesting. For your camera, it appears as though the 3000k on their own give the best results, but I wonder if for your eyes it looks best with the combination of both?

 

I'd certainly agree when looking at camera shots (noting that they're just taken with a phone, so nothing special).  Hard to say about the naked eye.  At the moment, as it was this morning, there's still too much ambient daylight in the room to get a good feel for the different combinations of LED set-ups.

 

3 hours ago, Alister_G said:

 

I'd be intrigued to see the same shots in darkness with just the LED strips illuminating it.

 

Al.

 

Me too!  That's a project for later this evening.  There are a lot of permutations...  But what I'm leaning towards is getting rid of all the 'blue' light strips, and then using the two x 5m 3000k strips.  Each of those is adjustable up to 6000k, so I think with two of them I should be able to 'mix and match', and get a pleasing light that I can even adjust according to the time of day or weather conditions.  That also has the benefit of reducing the overall number of light strips, and so less power cables to manage, and less complexity overall.

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