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'Across the Yard' and now, 'On Shed'.


Worsdell forever
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A brand new Fordson tractor has arrived in the yard. Its just had the sheet taken off and has been untied. The crane should be OK to lift it off the wagon. 

 

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Now, where's it gone? Has anyone seen it?

 

No... not seen one of them in aaages.

 

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It's a 3D print from scale3d.co.uk not come across them until someone somewhere linked to them about something else, I'd been searching for a 1917 Fordson model for a while but came up with nothing as this is described as an 'Old vintage farm tractor'.

 

A very good quality print, as ever, delicate. The only fault is actually in the design, the exhaust came up the side of the engine where it should run to the rear under the back axle, sorted with a length of brass wire.  

 

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In other news I've sheeted some opens, not sure of the origins of the North Eastern ones, some would have been bought in as they were slightly glossy and the black was wearing a bit much as I distressed/crumpled them, I think the one front left is one I printed, downloaded from somewhere, the GN one is from Roger Smith and the LNWR one downloaded in a selection from http://igg.org.uk/rail/9-loads/9-tarps.htm which is probably the origin of the North Eastern ones. 

This film (3.45) from the Huntly film archive shows that we need more sheeted wagons! Also interesting shots across the yard of a cotton mill at 2.25, but that's far too far off the North Eastern...

 

20220508_103233_copy_1600x720.jpg.7973350bca2439e0ce8b72247d3f57f0.jpg

 

 

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They are sitting very realistically, I agree about sheets being a bit ignored by modellers. 

 

Good film clip too. I think there was one van in that train at the end, all the rest were sheeted opens. 

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Perhaps the main reason they are ignored is :- The cost of the wagon , all the work then making it and then you cover the model with a Tarp .

 

You might as well use Triang Wagons as all the work is hidden !!

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1 hour ago, micklner said:

You might as well use Triang Wagons as all the work is hidden !!

 

But the seriously duff bit of a Triang wagon is exactly what remains on view; conversely, the sophisticated modelling with a decent open wagon kit is chiefly below the curb rail.

 

I'm a believer in the doctrine that the wagon and the sheet are one. That is to say, a single modelled entity; adding the sheet should not be an afterthought but an integral part of the planning of the model - certainly not removable, if the tie-ropes are to be represented at all realistically. That saves a good deal of bother about interior detail, or in some cases even lettering of the body!

 

Incidentally, noting that these wagons are, I think, part of the "1918" fleet, the pooling arrangements introduced during the Great War also included, from Feb 1917, sheets, and from Aug 1917 (but only until Aug 1921), ropes. So it would be perfectly possible, as indeed photos show, for a wagon of one company to be covered with another company's sheet. 

 

I assume that sheets had to be returned to their home company's sheet stores by the "do not use after" date.

Edited by Compound2632
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4 minutes ago, micklner said:

The  Triang comment was in jest !!

 

Understood...

 

4 minutes ago, micklner said:

The eye is drawn to the body and interior of a wagon first (normally).

 

As an individual model. But a realistic model of a railway is not achieved by an agglomeration of individual models, however perfect they may each be on their own terms.   

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2 hours ago, Worsdell forever said:

'What the 'ell we meant ti do wi' that?'

 

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I'll be interested to see how you will convert that to EM......scratching my head on how to do mine. The axle diameters are so thin, and the bogies so narrow internally!

 

Pete

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8 minutes ago, pete55 said:

 

I'll be interested to see how you will convert that to EM......scratching my head on how to do mine. The axle diameters are so thin, and the bogies so narrow internally!

 

Pete

 

Oh, was wondering if you had any suggestions... 

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It's a very nice model indeed, I do like oddities like that and the electric autocar is a particular favorite as I've had a good look over the real thing, it being based near Skipton and only a short ride across country for me.

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Upgraded the speaker in the autocar, the factory fitted one is a bit pathetic, it played the whistles OK but couldn't really handle the engine rumble. I first changed it for a YouChoos 18x13x7mm IceCube. These speakers are a nice fit in the clerestory. This was a great improvement so then I added a second in parallel as an experiment and it's better still. It needs the volume lowering a bit as clarity, I think, is more important than volume. 

 

 

 

 

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50 minutes ago, Worsdell forever said:

Upgraded the speaker in the autocar, the factory fitted one is a bit pathetic, it played the whistles OK but couldn't really handle the engine rumble. I first changed it for a YouChoos 18x13x7mm IceCube. These speakers are a nice fit in the clerestory. This was a great improvement so then I added a second in parallel as an experiment and it's better still. It needs the volume lowering a bit as clarity, I think, is more important than volume. 

 

 

 

 

Good sound, but not EM yet!!

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NER Autocar regauging, hope this all makes sense...


The two bogies are different, even down to the wheels, the powered bogie has spoked and the trailing has disc with a plastic insert.
Starting with the trailing bogie, remove it from the chassis and gently ease off the two ends, unfortunately these can’t be reused as we need to move the bogie side frames apart. Next the centre bolster needs to be removed, the bottom half unclips and the two sideframes can be eased off the top part. The top part of the bolster will be found to have four square pegs, these need filing back from the centre line .5mm, the corresponding holes on the sideframes need filing in over by about .5mm so that when the sideframes are remounted they will each be 1mm further out. I also filed back the pick up strip a tiny amount as it was rubbing on the wheels. Next the wheels need attention, first, obviously, they need re gauging, holding the plastic axle sleeve with serrated pliers each wheel can be twisted and persuaded to the desired B2B. The plastic inserts now need working on, the outside flange needs removing as it sits proud of the tyre, then if the back of the insert is filed back until the four circles disappear they will fit in the wheel much better and will be lass likely to catch the pick up strips.  
Now the bogie needs re assembling, the two halves of the bolster should clip back together and the screw fixing it to the chassis should hold it all together, a little glue could be run into the holes around the four pegs to stop any movement but it’s a very glue resistant plastic. 

 

Showing the filed down pegs and opened up holes.

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Flanges removed from the wheel inserts and the back of one filed down until the circular holes disappeared.

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All back together, close but it all runs freely.

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The power bogie is more difficult to remove but easier to re gauge, the body needs to be unclipped and the interior removing, it won’t come off completely as there are pick up wires attaching it to the chassis, there’s no need to remove these. Remove the bogie clip from the top of the gearbox and ease the bogie and propshaft out of the chassis, the propshaft is a tight fit into the gearbox but is better removed to work on the bogie. Next remove the axle keeper plate and the bogie sideframes can be slid out and the wheels removed, re gauge the wheels as before, there’s no inserts here, this bogie has spoked wheels. As on the trailing bogie the square holes on the sideframes need filing in over, as this bogie already has a little sideplay there’s no need to file the pegs which are on the axle keeper plate. Clip it all back together and re fit the bogie, it’s a bit of a squeeze to get it in the right position, there’s a pin to locate the bogie which it also pivots on. 
 

With the keeper plate removed the sideframes slide out.

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Holes on the left have been enlarged towards the centreline of the bogie.

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Again, close but runs freely.

20220515_161934-001.jpg.458377930b8d0eefe3a91eb228f0ceb6.jpg


 

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Great work Paul.

I've done the trailing bogie the same way, but have not yet tackled the driven one, so thanks for posting.

 

Pete

Edited by pete55
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