Jump to content
 

Triang Brush Type 2


 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

In the process of refurbishment - wire handrails, a repaint and new decals.

 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.718bf38c28be048872aea28b3590c116.jpeg
 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.89e133ddab0a5df2f8b073ce0f70a7cf.jpeg

 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.dc1d29916f3ef63808fa4cc16931b576.jpeg

 

Triang wheels replaced with Ultrascale’s.

 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.fc836378db1e163ddd7c7fbce8f5db95.jpeg
 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.f8420d15cc126ca5c37df272e23f7d9b.jpeg

 

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Edited by Darius43
  • Like 8
  • Craftsmanship/clever 7
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Darius43 changed the title to Triang Brush Type 2

Type 3?  Are you modelling the 1600hp variant?  I know the 2000hp version had extra grilles, were there any external differences between the type 2 and type 3? If you are doing the type 3 version they were numbered D5545 and D5655-D5670.

Edited by Titan
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Rant deleted - I typed Brush Type 3 by mistake.

 

Didn’t know there was a Type 3.

 

This model belongs to a friend (childhood train set loco) and I am doing it up for him.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Edited by Darius43
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

SEF flush glazing fitted and test fit to the bogies.

 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.ab52800d2a3c99c828fb0893941802a7.jpeg
 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.b76337bfc5758562d100948884349331.jpeg

 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.86fa75797e677a5cf0847775f0d2325d.jpeg

 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.fd605cc607e67e072ab1c68d36a2cc10.jpeg

 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.e40414d40ea4b9ef78fba87c4be51b4e.jpeg

 

The headcode is a decal replica of the original Triang paper sticker.  I took a photo of the sticker before I removed it and used the photo to make the decals.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Edited by Darius43
  • Like 12
  • Agree 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Darius, 

Sharp work as ever - Ultra scale wheels must have been fun on such and old chassis, did you work up a way to do extra pick ups on the other bogie.

 

The model has stood the test of time well. Within the budget the Triang and the toolmakers  cut a good job.

You have done well with the flush glazing so the model looks just that bit better. The TT version as a skin head is also very good in the right hands.

Thanks for showing

Robert   

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Cab steps made from plasticard and fixed to bogies. Etched windscreen wipers added and light weathering applied to the undergibbons.

 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.45fad6e641dec79d26a325f56ee51013.jpeg
 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.d56c7a33fb3278d865bcdcef080f8d95.jpeg

 

 

 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.71dbaeedcd8b4517f7908e1aa4ffd8fd.jpeg
 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.e8838f3170b9fa18052adb61fb50b5b7.jpeg


Cheers

 

Darius

Edited by Darius43
  • Like 10
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 31/10/2021 at 18:25, Darius43 said:

So far this is a cosmetic restoration.  The next stage is to convert to DCC with a suitable high current decoder.  

 

Cheers

 

Darius 

High Darius,

 

I have converted that type of bogie on a number of Triang/Hornby  class 35's and class 37's.  I used a LaisDCC 8 pin decoder with no problems at all so you may not require a high current decoder.  This is the basic conversion, shown here with a blanking plug, but I have also fitted running lights to some.

 

 

178318377_BlueHymekDCCRdy(1of8).jpg.0345de1ed7b112e94adf8398de89a619.jpg

 

DCC conversion with running lights with direction sensitive switchable red; F1.

 

814683851_No7GreenSYWPDCCRdyABP(1of11).jpg.854773524576110b44751dab5b8adcff.jpg

 

Edited by NFWEM57
  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I went with a Zimo MX635R - with all the improvement work done, didn’t want to risk a meltdown with a cheaper decoder.

 

FullSizeRender.jpeg.15dfe5f92762eaebad0db2be00fe8c56.jpeg

 

Now working on this…

 

IMG_0557.jpeg.9bd7a181de7af5915c243f26d53e8e2f.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

 

Edited by Darius43
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent work. It goes to show how the triang 31 can be improved.

 

it isn’t a sow’s ear though. It is simply a victim of progress. For a model released way back in the 1960s it was excellent and really captured the look of the Brush Type 2. In my opinion triang Hornby missed a trick ditching it in the 1970s rather than giving it the ringfield treatment like the Hymek (far less universal type) or the 37 (incorrect fundamentally).

 

I guess the Airfix model put them off. 

 

This project shows how some simple upgrades can give it a new lease of life. 

  • Like 1
  • Agree 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, ianmacc said:

Excellent work. It goes to show how the triang 31 can be improved.

 

it isn’t a sow’s ear though. It is simply a victim of progress. For a model released way back in the 1960s it was excellent and really captured the look of the Brush Type 2. In my opinion triang Hornby missed a trick ditching it in the 1970s rather than giving it the ringfield treatment like the Hymek (far less universal type) or the 37 (incorrect fundamentally).

 

I guess the Airfix model put them off. 

 

This project shows how some simple upgrades can give it a new lease of life. 

 

I can't see how a ringfield motor could have been fitted into the Class 31 because, unlike the Hymek and the 37, it didn't have a separate chassis which could be retooled/replaced. As can be discerned from Darius's inside view above, the motor bogie and trailing bogie pivots were part of the bodyshell. This method of assembly required the separate roof. When you consider the way it was tooled, the reason for being able to see the exposed outer axle on the trailing bogie from above becomes clear, as a floor couldn't be provided below the cab 'inner roof' in a single moulding - it would have had to have been a separately-fitted part, and with no cab interior there was no point.

Hornby kept  the 31 going for as long as possible - longer than I thought in fact - but by the end the tooling was beginning to degrade, so they probably weren't too bothered about Airfix stepping in. Curious that the latter model repeated the fake centre wheelset on the motor bogie - not much progress there in 14 years....!

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 10/11/2021 at 18:51, ianmacc said:

Excellent work. It goes to show how the triang 31 can be improved.

 

it isn’t a sow’s ear though. It is simply a victim of progress. For a model released way back in the 1960s it was excellent and really captured the look of the Brush Type 2. In my opinion triang Hornby missed a trick ditching it in the 1970s rather than giving it the ringfield treatment like the Hymek (far less universal type) or the 37 (incorrect fundamentally).

 

I guess the Airfix model put them off. 

 

This project shows how some simple upgrades can give it a new lease of life. 

 

My understanding is that they decided to introduce a new locomotive to replace it - the class 25, also a Type 2.  So if they had opted for what would have effectively been a completely new 31, we may not have had a class 25, which I think would also have been a big trick to miss, as it was an excellent model.

  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Heavens, now I feel guilty about all of the effort and expense you put into the Tri-ang bogies :huh:!

When I bought a Railroad blue 31256 at launch I was impressed that Hornby had correctly fitted smaller wheels to the centre axles, that was one up on the superdetailed model (although the latter's all-axle drive would have required some careful gearing with smaller wheels in the middle of each bogie). I was less impressed with the weird mix of tooling though, and in the end fitted and detailed up a spare Airfix body.

Not surprised you didn't attempt excavation of the missing cab door hand rail recesses, the near-impossibility of achieving all eight in a neat and tidy manner would have put me off the idea too! I wonder if anyone has ever attempted it.....? 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I still plan to fettle the Triang motor bogies.  At the moment the motor bogie assembly works but sounds awful.  I think the armature bearings need to be replaced, which requires the worms to be removed. 
 

I have obtained replacement bearings and a gear puller for this purpose.  Ultrascale provides replacement worm gears with their wheels so I plan to replace the Triang ones with these.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Darius43 said:

I still plan to fettle the Triang motor bogies.  At the moment the motor bogie assembly works but sounds awful.  I think the armature bearings need to be replaced, which requires the worms to be removed. 
 

I have obtained replacement bearings and a gear puller for this purpose.  Ultrascale provides replacement worm gears with their wheels so I plan to replace the Triang ones with these.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

I'm in the same situation with my Triang 31 (a cheap Ebay non-runner). I've got the replacement bearings but haven't got round to attempting to replacing them yet so I'm watching this thread with interest. And learning a lot :)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
5 minutes ago, PaulaDoesTrains said:

I'm in the same situation with my Triang 31 (a cheap Ebay non-runner). I've got the replacement bearings but haven't got round to attempting to replacing them yet so I'm watching this thread with interest. And learning a lot :)


You will most likely need a gear puller to get the worm gears off the armature shaft so as to be able to replace the bearings.  I had never used one before but it was surprisingly easy.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah yes, those nylon bearings, not this motor bogie's best feature. If too slack the armature can vibrate which causes noise and a touch of lethargy. The small loop moulded onto the bearing as a kind of resilient retainer can break which doesn't help. Elsewhere here on RMWeb I seem to recall reading that it's possible to replace these loops with small off-cuts of plastic tube from a cotton bud, which I thought was quite inspired!

 

What's up next for overhaul from your friend's fleet Darius - must be a Hymek lurking in the wings, surely.....? ;) 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 14/11/2021 at 00:47, Halvarras said:

Ah yes, those nylon bearings, not this motor bogie's best feature. If too slack the armature can vibrate which causes noise and a touch of lethargy. The small loop moulded onto the bearing as a kind of resilient retainer can break which doesn't help. Elsewhere here on RMWeb I seem to recall reading that it's possible to replace these loops with small off-cuts of plastic tube from a cotton bud, which I thought was quite inspired!

 

What's up next for overhaul from your friend's fleet Darius - must be a Hymek lurking in the wings, surely.....? ;) 

For information, replacement bearings (S5451) are available on eBay at a reasonable price for a pair.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
46 minutes ago, NFWEM57 said:

For information, replacement bearings (S5451) are available on eBay at a reasonable price for a pair.


That’s where I obtained mine.  Fitting them reduced the motor noise from excruciating to just above painful.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok Darius,

It's all your fault. As if I do not have enough projects on the go at the moment. Now I have to get a Triang Class 31(Or in my world a Brush type 2). Looking for a decent one or two of them on Ebay. Plus I must admit I always liked the Airfix version. Might have to get one of those as well. OH !!! will it never end........ LOL

Edited by cypherman
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...