Starting out in 7mm scale

[Enfys_Rainbow]

Hi all,

 

First and foremost, I'm a 4mm modeller and that's not going to change (let's see in 12 months!).

 

I've always had a keen interest in 7mm scale, but there's always been lots of reasons for staying away.

 

I've finally taken the plunge: this is an experiment to see how it goes and I'll do it alongside my existing 4mm modelling.

 

My plan is to build a wagon and a few small buildings and go from there.

 

So, a wagon:

 

A few years ago I bought a Slater's Palvan kit on eBay. No real reason why, and in hindsight I should have bought something else. It's been sitting in a drawer all this time.

 

 

I've built many 4mm scale wagons, this is definitely a step up in every way.

 

 

 

Matt

[brossard]

Very good that you want to have a go at 0 gauge.  It eliminates some of the nasty compromises of 00 (track gauge and couplings) and allows you to add more detail.

 

Slaters kits are excellent, I have done a lot though not the Palvan - yet.

 

Peco/Parkside kits are very good too.

 

The thing that caught my eye was the Dapol 08 and I realized that it was actually affordable - not cheap mind you, but just look at the prices of 00 locos these days.

 

I sold off my 00 stuff because I felt that it was pointless to continue with a scale that was not up to the standards of 0.  Plus, time and resources are limited so I needed to pick one.

 

John

[Sweet pea]

Hi Matt this sounds very interesting. I'm certain you will have no problem when modelling O gauge kits as the work in your oo gauge wagon kits are excellent.

[Nick G]

33 minutes ago, Enfys_Rainbow said:

Hi all,

 

First and foremost, I'm a 4mm modeller and that's not going to change (let's see in 12 months!).

 

 

It's a slippery slope, good luck...

[brossard]

When I started, I told myself that I would only get the stock that I needed, but that quickly went out the window.  Kits are addictive.  Most of my wagons are kits with a few RTR.  Even the RTR wagons are modified, some heavily.

 

John

Edited July 23, 2022 by brossard

[Adrian Stevenson]

Looks like you have made a good start. 

[Enfys_Rainbow]

16 hours ago, brossard said:

Very good that you want to have a go at 0 gauge.  It eliminates some of the nasty compromises of 00 (track gauge and couplings) and allows you to add more detail.

 

Slaters kits are excellent, I have done a lot though not the Palvan - yet.

 

Peco/Parkside kits are very good too.

 

The thing that caught my eye was the Dapol 08 and I realized that it was actually affordable - not cheap mind you, but just look at the prices of 00 locos these days.

 

I sold off my 00 stuff because I felt that it was pointless to continue with a scale that was not up to the standards of 0.  Plus, time and resources are limited so I needed to pick one.

 

John

 

Hi John, I agree: it's the introduction of the Dapol locos that have made this a possibility and very comparable with new 4mm locos.

 

I also have a Parkside 16t mineral on order...

 

16 hours ago, Nick G said:

 

It's a slippery slope, good luck...

 

Hi Nick, I don't intend to stop modelling in 4mm, I've invested too much time and money over the years...

 

15 hours ago, Adrian Stevenson said:

Looks like you have made a good start. 

 

Thanks Adrian, still getting to grips with how big everything is!

 

Now a quick question:

 

What are people's preferred 3 link couplings?

 

Matt

[Hal Nail]

58 minutes ago, Enfys_Rainbow said:

What are people's preferred 3 link couplings?

For 3 link I just use whatever comes with the kit or the spares box but most of my stock, such as the fitted palvan, would have instanters and I always seem to be short!

 

Slaters do cast ones but they are quite pricey to buy undividually so I got one of the various etches that are available for the middle link.

 

For screw couplings I bought Dapol spares.

Edited July 24, 2022 by Hal Nail

[goldfish]

13 minutes ago, Hal Nail said:

For 3 link I just use whatever comes with the kit or the spares box but most of my stock, such as the fitted palvan, would have instanters and I always seem to be short!

 

Slaters do cast ones but they are quite pricey to buy undividually so I got one of the various etches that are available for the middle link.

 

For screw couplings I bought Dapol spares.

Dapol also supply intanter couplings as spares, as used on their mineral wagons  - 'Dapol 7A-000-011 Instanter Couplings & Hooks 5pr'

[F-UnitMad]

18 hours ago, Enfys_Rainbow said:

First and foremost, I'm a 4mm modeller and that's not going to change (let's see in 12 months!).

🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍

Good luck with that. You'll be getting the microscope out after working with O. 😁

[Hal Nail]

12 minutes ago, goldfish said:

Dapol also supply intanter couplings as spares, as used on their mineral wagons  - 'Dapol 7A-000-011 Instanter Couplings & Hooks 5pr'

Yes although adding an instanter to spare chain works out much cheaper.

 

I should have added Dapols links dont tend to stay put in their coupling which is probably why they supply spares.

[Nick G]

2 hours ago, Enfys_Rainbow said:

 

 

 

Hi Nick, I don't intend to stop modelling in 4mm, I've invested too much time and money over the years.

 

 

 

I will be keeping my two OO exhibition layouts and my 009 layout but I don't think I will ever build another layout in OO after playing with O gauge.

 

[brossard]

Agree with most of the above.  Couplings, esp. 3 link supplied with kits, are fine I think.  Parkside usually supply a plastic instanter link (note instanters were a GWR invention.  BR adopted them) which I dislike and prefer metal, such as Slaters.  I find Dapol's screw links to be good value and they are done for you.  Some kit supplied screw links require assembly and that can be a total faff.

 

To finish off, I made a couple of coupling tools from torches and steel wire:

 

 

These work well.  Coupling can be a PITA and it does take practice.  The added realism is worth the effort I think.

 

One other point - about vacuum pipes - the Slater's LWB pipes with spring hoses are best IMO.  Parkside tend to supply whitemetal castings which look horrid to me.

 

John

Edited July 24, 2022 by brossard

[markjj]

8 hours ago, goldfish said:

Dapol also supply intanter couplings as spares, as used on their mineral wagons  - 'Dapol 7A-000-011 Instanter Couplings & Hooks 5pr'

Avoid the Dapol instanter couplings they are shorter than everyone elses for some reason. I'm not quite sure who's are scale though. 

[brossard]

Some notes about  couplings.  Couplings supplied with kits are usually etched brass hook and steel links.

 

First, once the coupling is assembled, the links should be soldered at their joint.  Parkside hooks have an open hole for the links and these can fall out through the gap.

 

Colouring: I initially used chemical black to darken the couplings.  However, over time, the chemical black has been harder to find (here anyway), it is pretty expensive and, of course, is toxic.  Lately I simply use a black Sharpie.  Everything gets weathered anyway.

 

John

[Georgeham]

Welcome to O gauge modelling - like others have said - it is addictive!  Like you I modelled in OO gauge, but have found myself more and more drawn to O gauge, especially the kit building (I have a Slaters Vanwide on my desk at the moment).

 

Everyone here (7mm+ section) has been very friendly - especially when I have got stuck or made a mistake!

 

Your wagon looks to be coming on well - I will follow with interest.

[Enfys_Rainbow]

Thanks for all the comments about couplings - I think Slater's cast hooks may be the way to go.

 

Rapid progress with the Palvan, only the underframe bits to finish off now...

 

 

Matt 

[Enfys_Rainbow]

Hi all,

 

Progress has inevitably slowed with a return to work coupled with waiting for some bits to enable me to finish the Palvan.

 

I have, however, made a start on a small structure. I thought using a kit would be a good idea to enable me to get used to size and dimensions etc.

 

I chose a very simple kit from Lcut but have "customised" it somewhat. I'm not a fan of laser cut surface detail so, as with my 4mm buildings, I've elected to clad it in embossed brick.

 

 

 

The back has been left as it'll inevitably be "against" something in the future.

 

Matt

[brossard]

Excellent choice, LCut kits are great value and I have used a fair few on my layout.  Like you I don't like laser embossed brick but, in my case I use Scalescenes brick paper.  It is quick and some might call it a cheat but the rendering is excellent and much better than I could do with paint.

 

 

LCut weighbridge.  Embellished with downspouts.  I used the Scalescenes roof system.  The guard rail is brass strip.

 

Speaking of Scalescenes, I have used a number of these on my layout, blown up to 7mm.  Pricewise they can't be beat.  They do require considerable work to complete though and windows & doors are a pain since they have to be made from scratch.

 

John

[Enfys_Rainbow]

1 hour ago, brossard said:

Excellent choice, LCut kits are great value and I have used a fair few on my layout.  Like you I don't like laser embossed brick but, in my case I use Scalescenes brick paper.  It is quick and some might call it a cheat but the rendering is excellent and much better than I could do with paint.

 

 

LCut weighbridge.  Embellished with downspouts.  I used the Scalescenes roof system.  The guard rail is brass strip.

 

Speaking of Scalescenes, I have used a number of these on my layout, blown up to 7mm.  Pricewise they can't be beat.  They do require considerable work to complete though and windows & doors are a pain since they have to be made from scratch.

 

John

 

That's lovely, thanks for sharing John!

[Sweet pea]

Matt nice modelling of the office, the plastic brick sheet does look good.

[Enfys_Rainbow]

Well, having applied a bit of colour to my building, I'm not sure - definitely more challenging than 4mm scale. Might be back to the drawing board with this one!

 

 

Matt

[brossard]

Well, I don't know.  It looks fine if you are riding past on a bike.  I think I see the issue - the brick courses aren't aligned at the corners.  Tricky to get that right.  Keep at it.

 

John

[Sitham Yard]

9 minutes ago, brossard said:

Well, I don't know.  It looks fine if you are riding past on a bike.  I think I see the issue - the brick courses aren't aligned at the corners.  Tricky to get that right.  Keep at it.

 

John

Also the brickwork over the door and windows does not look right. There seems to be too much of it compared  to the weighbridge hut by @brossard which to my eye looks correct.

Andrew

[Hal Nail]

This guide, and others like it, always surprise me with the range of tones you can put into brickwork to end up with a realistic looking finish.

 

https://www.intentio.shop/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=7