Jump to content
 

TT:120 A4’s & Mallard


PaulRhB
 Share

Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, jjb1970 said:

Drawings are a minefield. Even in the case of official drawings. Is it the as designed or the as built drawing, not to mention updated drawings to reflect in-service changes.

 

The A4 is a classic.  Silver Link was being built before the drawings were finished.  Indeed some of the final drawings of the streamlined casing were done after the loco was complete by measuring what they'd made.

 

"Looks Good, now lets make 34 models at 1:1 scale...."

 

Les

  • Like 4
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
3 hours ago, idd15 said:

Sounds promising!

Mallard & Hornby HM7000 Video

 

Had thought sound in TT120 models might be a bit "thin", but this video I think disproves that. Will certainly be upgrading my Mallard when the app and decoders are available.

 

Cheers

idd


I hope the new chips will be adjustable for chuff rate as that has about two when it should be six per revolution, three cylinders. 
Their product info just keeps referring to the app to change settings but it appears from answers on the forum you chose a loco profile to match the loco but nothing on if it is further customisable. TTS was good for the money but reminds me of LGB chips of twenty years that could be changed from 2 they used before to more accurate 4 chuffs and that was it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, PaulRhB said:

I hope the new chips will be adjustable for chuff rate as that has about two when it should be six per revolution, three cylinders. 

 

He did say "This isn't the Mallard sound, of course, it is just the preinstalled sound." and his informational text in red at the bottom of the screen said "THE PRE-INSTALLED SOUND FILES UNTIL THE HM7000 APP' RELEASE" (his caps, not mine). Possibly this one is a 'generic' steam sound.

 

Presumably the correct sound file will be closer to the real thing for those that want it, although from what I've read it can only be an approximation. For my part I wouldn't know whether or not it was correct - for me it is just an overall 'atmosphere' effect.

Edited by Porfuera
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
2 minutes ago, Porfuera said:

 

He did say "This isn't the Mallard sound, of course, it is just the preinstalled sound." and his informational text in red at the bottom of the screen said "THE PRE-INSTALLED SOUND FILES UNTIL THE HM7000 APP' RELEASE" (his caps, not mine).

 

Yes that’s why I said I hope they are, whether by the user or as a specific file designed for the loco, and I did qualify it with asking because of the lack of information available at present 😉

 

2 minutes ago, Porfuera said:

 

Presumably the correct sound file will be closer to the real thing for those that want it, although from what I've read it can only be an approximation. For my part I wouldn't know whether or not it was correct - for me it is just an overall 'atmosphere' effect.


The advantage of getting it close is it truly sounds more like the loco if you compare it to a video or see it for real so it actually suits everyone even if they aren’t aware of it being a thing. In general terms there are two chuffs per cylinder for each rotation as the steam is exhausted each time the piston changes direction. So 2 cylinders gives 4 chuffs, 3 cylinders 6 chuffs 😀

Then you get into how the chuffs sound depending on a much wider variety of factors 😉

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, PaulRhB said:

The advantage of getting it close is it truly sounds more like the loco if you compare it to a video or see it for real so it actually suits everyone even if they aren’t aware of it being a thing. In general terms there are two chuffs per cylinder for each rotation as the steam is exhausted each time the piston changes direction. So 2 cylinders gives 4 chuffs, 3 cylinders 6 chuffs 😀

Then you get into how the chuffs sound depending on a much wider variety of factors 😉

 

Possibly this is heresy but it honestly makes no difference to me as I can't directly compare a model to the real thing, either in real life or on video - there's too much time elapsed between seeing one and then seeing the other for me to remember what the difference is and I don't watch/count the wheel rotations in videos or on the model in any case.

 

For me it is nice to have the sounds as they add another dimension to the model. Better, I guess, if different locos make different sounds but even then I'm not sure I'd notice if they didn't.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, PaulRhB said:


I hope the new chips will be adjustable for chuff rate as that has about two when it should be six per revolution, three cylinders. 
Their product info just keeps referring to the app to change settings but it appears from answers on the forum you chose a loco profile to match the loco but nothing on if it is further customisable. TTS was good for the money but reminds me of LGB chips of twenty years that could be changed from 2 they used before to more accurate 4 chuffs and that was it.

SK said in one of the TT Talk videos that the sound cant be synched to the wheel rotations in the early versions. However in the TV programme we saw them trying to get the sound and wheels in sync on an SR pacific so who knows

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 18/02/2023 at 22:44, Les1952 said:

 

Lacking the skills (through being mildly dyspraxic) to make a good enough job of engine building to satisfy myself with the result, I'm never going to have to rely on Ian Beattie's drawings, or those of anyone else for that matter.  Having tried to get hold of copies of the original drawings for J67 and J69 from the NRM collection I discovered that there are classes (this being one) for which no definitive drawing exists that covers even a majority of locos- in this particular case locos were built in batches of ten, and no batch was identical to the preceding one as parts were upgraded almost constantly.  Anyone trying to make a class drawing for modellers might hit a particular sub-set of the class on a particular day.  

 

That also probably explains in the case of the J67/J69 why no manufacturer has made a ready-to-run model of the class, apart from the early Graham Farish one in N, which looked something like a J69 but had a mechanism that was so poor it made the body almost stunning....

 

Les

Who in the past has built complete loco kits that even ran, but wouldn't attempt one now.

If you want drawings of these 0-6-0s then suggest you use those published by the Great Eastern Railway Society. The GERS drawings by Brooks & Gardiner are pretty good. If yoou want kits - then Jim McGeown has produced kits of J68 and J69/1 in the past.

Link to post
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Arun Sharma said:

If you want drawings of these 0-6-0s then suggest you use those published by the Great Eastern Railway Society. The GERS drawings by Brooks & Gardiner are pretty good. If yoou want kits - then Jim McGeown has produced kits of J68 and J69/1 in the past.

 

The point was that with locos being built in small batches that changed between batches, and being rebuilt periodically changing their appearance, the class is a nightmare for the R-T-R manufacturer, especially in these days when we want so much fidelity.  When Graham Farish released their generic J69 we were so glad to have any 0-6-0T at all its visual imperfections were overlooked, and remained so because its mechanical imperfections were far worse....

 

Les 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
14 hours ago, Les1952 said:

 

When Graham Farish released their generic J69 we were so glad to have any 0-6-0T at all its visual imperfections were overlooked, and remained so because its mechanical imperfections were far worse....

 

Les 

They needed to supply ear defenders with them. The later 0-6-0 chassis was quite a breakthrough, however. 
 

Tim

  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

20240210_142105.jpg.dd1833b3e35a67934ecd98d04cf30c1b.jpg

 

OK, so the glue spilled and I've some retouching to do, but the Silver Tay nameplates do make a big difference to Whitelaw.

 

Now, a question.

 

This one runs clockwise round Radius 2 curves, but not anticlockwise, and not in either direction slowly.  I remember seeing somewhere a post about where and how to carve round the bogie area to get enough play for the loco to take R2 happily.  It doesn't derail- a small amount of lead on the underside of the bogie has seen to that.  The issue is that the bogie can't swing out enough as it is prevented by the inside of the front fairing.

 

Les

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, Les1952 said:

20240210_142105.jpg.dd1833b3e35a67934ecd98d04cf30c1b.jpg

 

OK, so the glue spilled and I've some retouching to do, but the Silver Tay nameplates do make a big difference to Whitelaw.

 

Now, a question.

 

This one runs clockwise round Radius 2 curves, but not anticlockwise, and not in either direction slowly.  I remember seeing somewhere a post about where and how to carve round the bogie area to get enough play for the loco to take R2 happily.  It doesn't derail- a small amount of lead on the underside of the bogie has seen to that.  The issue is that the bogie can't swing out enough as it is prevented by the inside of the front fairing.

 

Les

I'd refer you to the definitive guide on A4 bogies on the Hornby Forum. There's also a new finding that's at the bottom of the post. Your issue probably falls into one of these categories:

https://community.hornbyhobbies.com/topic/33745-the-main-a1a3a4-chassis-bogie-problems-fixes/#comment-373922

Edited by GenericRMWebUsername
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll dismantle the bogie tomorrow and see if I can remove the guards at the front.  Hopefully that should work.  It would be nice to operate it on Bregstadt occasionally- it isn't as inappropriate as some of the European "preserved" stuff that might appear, and looks quite good on a rake of 6-wheel Umbauwagen.

 

It is a bit of a showcase queen at the moment- only really bought because 60004 was the only A4 I photographed in BR service.  I also saw it TWICE working tender first on goods trains!

 

I'll post how I get on.  At least mentioning it has bumped the thread more into the collective consciousness.....

 

Les

 

Edited by Les1952
typos...
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
14 hours ago, Les1952 said:

I'll dismantle the bogie tomorrow and see if I can remove the guards at the front.  Hopefully that should work.  It would be nice to operate it on Bregstadt occasionally- it isn't as inappropriate as some of the European "preserved" stuff that might appear, and looks quite good on a rake of 6-wheel Umbauwagen.

 

It is a bit of a showcase queen at the moment- only really bought because 60004 was the only A4 I photographed in BR service.  I also saw it TWICE working tender first on goods trains!

 

I'll post how I get on.  At least mentioning it has bumped the thread more into the collective consciousness.....

 

Les

 

 

Have you seen the following post and subsequent ones (apologies if you have but there seems to be a cats cradle of threads and links on this topic)?

 

https://community.hornbyhobbies.com/topic/35136-bogie-modification/?do=findComment&comment=373875

 

Before cutting bits off your precious loco, make sure the bogie pivot is moving freely in the slot in the bracket.

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

It is moving in the slot.  Removing the pieces from the front of the bogie may allow me to glue a Hunt coupling to the front end- I remember seeing 60004 on trains three times, all freight and two of them running tender first.

 

Progress backwards today- it is now stalling on the R2 bit with smoke rising (hopefully NOT from the motor....)

 

Les

 

Edited by Les1952
  • Like 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...