Building a Keyser GWR 15xx to EM gauge

[hayfield]

I was lucky enough to buy this K's 15xx at a very reasonable price on eBay

 

 

Pity its in a flat box for storage reasons as I will have to use one of my Cheltenham Model Centre's storage box. But on the plus side the vac packed card certainly protects the items

 

 

The first job is to decide what Items need replacing, as its being built to EM gauge the wheels are surplus as they come with 00 gauge axles, Also I will replace the HP2M motor and gears as I will either use a DS10 or small can motor with a High Level gearbox, which gearbox will depend on whether I use 00 or EM gauge frame spacers.

 

The main issue is how the chassis interacts with the front chassis plate which the cylinders attach to. I do have some EM gauge frame spacers similar to the 00 gauge ones in the kit.

 

The second issue is the clearance between the crankpins and the crosshead/piston rods, the kit supplies these cast in whitemetal. I think I have some brass ones which will be more robust. Using Alan Gibson wheels will reduce the clearance worries, as will reducing the wheels side play

 

The kit is a bit of a weird one, in that there is no real footplate, the rear part attaches to the body. The front part seems attached to the chassis

 

As its a reduced fee weekend the wheels, motor and gears will go on eBay

[Jeff Smith]

Alan Gibson lists milled main frames for this.

[hayfield]

6 minutes ago, Jeff Smith said:

Alan Gibson lists milled main frames for this.

 

Jeff

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I did notice them and they do still can be an option. The issue I can think of  is how the chassis interacts with both the body and cylinders

 

 

As you can see only the rear footplate attaches to the body. An 8bs nut is soldered to the inside of the smoke box

 

  The instructions clearly state screwing the Front chassis plate (16) to the chassis

 

The front part of the footplate is part of the chassis otherwise you would have to disconnect the connecting rods when removing the chassis from the body

 

 

The front chassis plate( front footplate) is attached to the chassis owing to the cylinders being attached to it. It may well be that I may want or need to use a set of Gibson frames, but as the front plate and cylinder assembly are screwed to the chassis hopefully its an easy adaption if needed

 

I guess the Alan Gibson frames could be used, but in their basic (not compensated) form are much the same. If I use 00 gauge frame spacers it does limit my choice of High Level gearboxes. Then its a simple job of adding 30 or 40 thou plasticard sides. Using EM gauge frame spacers will avoid doing this. Its simply unpacking the bits and checking how it all the parts interlock with each other 

[Barclay]

Those flat packs were a strange idea, they take up so much more room than the little old orange boxes. I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on as I have the LMS Dock Tank kit that is very similar I think.

[kevinlms]

8 minutes ago, Barclay said:

Those flat packs were a strange idea, they take up so much more room than the little old orange boxes. I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on as I have the LMS Dock Tank kit that is very similar I think.

Almost certainly eliminated customers ringing to say that such and such part(s) were missing from the box. Probably saved a fortune.

[hayfield]

1 minute ago, Barclay said:

Those flat packs were a strange idea, they take up so much more room than the little old orange boxes. I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on as I have the LMS Dock Tank kit that is very similar I think.

 

Most of the K's kits are on the easier side to build, those of us who model in the wider gauges get used to having to adapt the odd item. Thankfully the items that cause the most issues are the splashers, this loco does not have any, plus it has a firebox back head so the cab is nice and clear.

 

The biggest issue is how big the hole in the tanks/boiler is to fit the motor, this may affect which wheel is driven and what motor is used

I am hoping that by using Gibson wheels and crankpins will be narrow enough to absorb the widening the back to back of the wheels from 14.5 to 16.5, as K's and Romford wheels are much thicker. Plus I hope to use a better quality of crosshead

[hayfield]

2 minutes ago, kevinlms said:

Almost certainly eliminated customers ringing to say that such and such part(s) were missing from the box. Probably saved a fortune.

 

Also they protect the parts better, quite often cast parts get distorted over time when loose in a box ( after the buyer has initially handled the parts

 

The stock boxes from Cheltenham Model Centre are very good (I bought 8 at Alley Pally this year) SEF were happy to sell replacement boxes as I guess others also do

[46256]

I used Gibson frames and high level motor gears on this model. It is a combination of a Lima 94 xx and an Airfix city of Truro. Valve gear and cylinders from comet.

[hayfield]

 

The first stage is completed, the wheels and motor have both found new homes and since buying this loco I have increased my stash or Markits 18mm wheel sets and DS 10 motors, though I am assuming I will have to use Alan Gibson wheel sets to give sufficient clearance for the motion

[Pierview]

John

 

I will be interested to view your progress as the build proceeds. If it is any help I described my build in OO of the Nu Cast Partners version  last year. No doubt a little trickier in EM but it is a nice little kit.

 

Barry

[hayfield]

9 hours ago, Pierview said:

John

 

I will be interested to view your progress as the build proceeds. If it is any help I described my build in OO of the Nu Cast Partners version  last year. No doubt a little trickier in EM but it is a nice little kit.

 

Barry

 

Barry

 

Have you a link to it please as it will be interesting.

 

Initially I am hoping I can make a basic conversion to EM gauge, just waiting for my work bench to clear

[Pierview]

John

 

Here you are

 

Barry

[roythebus1]

Any tips on how to clean rust off Gibson wheels? I've got a couple of old projects underway, but the wheels have gone rusty. I'm finding them a PITA as one of the projects (Wrenn R1 with etched chassis) I got it all together and quartered then found I should have put the gearbox in...now it has wobbly wheels. Romford may be the answer. At least they won't go rusty.

 

Somewhere in the historic projects I've got a K's Beyer-Peacock. that too doesn't have a footplate so to get the body on and off the chassis involves sliding the crossheads out.

 

[Jeff Smith]

I usually use a fibreglass brush but be careful of the broken fibres........

[hayfield]

13 hours ago, roythebus1 said:

Any tips on how to clean rust off Gibson wheels? I've got a couple of old projects underway, but the wheels have gone rusty. I'm finding them a PITA as one of the projects (Wrenn R1 with etched chassis) I got it all together and quartered then found I should have put the gearbox in...now it has wobbly wheels. Romford may be the answer. At least they won't go rusty.

 

Somewhere in the historic projects I've got a K's Beyer-Peacock. that too doesn't have a footplate so to get the body on and off the chassis involves sliding the crossheads out.

 

 

It depends on the amount of rust that has formed on the wheels, start off with the least abrasive method and if all fails use fine emery paper

 

As for the Beyer Peacock I thought K's method was to attach the cylinders/ Assembly to the chassis then attach the chassis to the body ?

[roythebus1]

I can't remember about that, it's been in a box minus instructions for over 35 years! I'm getting round to the "round tuits" boxes... I'll have to have another look when it re-surfaces. I know it's missing some parts including one of the side rods and cab!

 

I've tried the fibre brushes and my fingers tend to find the bits thereof... got some 1200 grade emery as well. I'm beginning to regret using those wheels! I didn't realise the railway room was that damp it would make stuff in boxes go rusty.

[hayfield]

52 minutes ago, roythebus1 said:

I can't remember about that, it's been in a box minus instructions for over 35 years! I'm getting round to the "round tuits" boxes... I'll have to have another look when it re-surfaces. I know it's missing some parts including one of the side rods and cab!

 

I've tried the fibre brushes and my fingers tend to find the bits thereof... got some 1200 grade emery as well. I'm beginning to regret using those wheels! I didn't realise the railway room was that damp it would make stuff in boxes go rusty.

 

If you can temporally fit  the axel and put it in an electric drill or use a lathe, as the wheel spins gently use a mild abrasive paper

 

Its not only K's and Gibson's I have some Slaters 7mm wheels doing the same thing