Radio Controlled locos, lorries, cranes etc. Electroplating

[Pugsley]

Look what arrived this morning

Not bad for a £12 punt off ebay, it's going to need a bit of work body-wise, but that's no problem.  Looking at the undergubbins:

 

 

It looks like it should be pretty easy to convert, it certainly looks quite easy to disassemble.  It doesn't weigh very much at the moment though, which could be a problem, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

[TimC]

Martin 

 

Very nice - should be plenty of room to put the road / rail gear too   .... I'll get my coat..........

[Giles]

Well..........

 

 

[Pugsley]

Very nice - should be plenty of room to put the road / rail gear too   .... I'll get my coat..........

Funny you should mention that, I had planned on fitting road/rail gear to it.  Now that Giles has demonstrated that it can be done in 1:87 scale, I've got no excuse for not attempting it!  Did I mention that this was a long term project...

Edited March 7, 2013 by Pugsley

[PhilJ W]

Perhaps this will help >>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpKNKA1_kUw&feature=player_embedded

[TimC]

Didn't get as far as I hoped yesterday but at least I made some progress.  

 

 

The lorry put up a fight when it came to dismantling.  The small screws are not slotted or cross headed but an unusal indented triangle style and while all but one came out easily enough, the one under the cab was a real basket to get out   .

 

After stripping the model down I was going to build up the front wheels with milliput but having the lorry at the club rooms and leaving my milliput at home was not going to get that job done so I've started opeing out the space for the motor gearbox and bevel gears.   Just need to open out the space for the servo.

 

Hopefully next week will be more productive......

 

 

[Giles]

Great stuff - you've to to finish it now....!

 

WARNING! The headlights are loose, and can come out very easily - and are easily lost. It might be worth while popping them out and gluing them in.

[TimC]

Great stuff - you've to to finish it now....!

 

WARNING! The headlights are loose, and can come out very easily - and are easily lost. It might be worth while popping them out and gluing them in.

Giles

 

It'll get finished, no fear of that - there is already another vehicle waiting for conversion.......

 

Thanks for the tip regarding the headlights.  Now while I think about it, I'm guessing that you removed all the glazing, wipers and mirrors prior to respraying the cab - do they come off easy?  Also the old axle hub on the front wheels did you remove this prior to filling with milliput?

[Giles]

Painting - no, I just used maskol on the windows, wipers etc.... With no problem. If you get any paint on the windows, a quick wipe over with Duraglit or similar will have it straight off with no problem. (don't forget to mask off the open window though!)

 

I left the old hub in, put the Milliput in, and then bored the whole lot out - saved work!

[TimC]

Painting - no, I just used maskol on the windows, wipers etc.... With no problem. If you get any paint on the windows, a quick wipe over with Duraglit or similar will have it straight off with no problem. (don't forget to mask off the open window though!)

 

I left the old hub in, put the Milliput in, and then bored the whole lot out - saved work!

  

Giles - Great!

 

Many thanks.

[Barnaby]

Some more great and INTERESTING work going on here - keep it up gents.

 

Great stuff

 

Regards

[TimC]

A bit more of the lorry chassis got chopped away yesterday.

 

 

 

That hole under the cab grew in about four stages as I changed my mind on how best to mount the servo.  I've gone for across the back of the cab with the receiver and the charging socket in front under the hood - I've just got to make sure the steering gear doesn't get in the way of the charging plug.  The servo is small enough that it doesn't stick above the window line in the cab and it shouldn't be that noticeable once covered in masking tape which will be painted a suitable colour.

 

I remembered the milliput and have filled the holes in the front wheels and I've made up the rear axle which is ready for fitting once I've finally stopped filing away at the chassis.  Sods law was that I made the rear axle up with the plain bearings I had only for the shouldered or flanged ones I had ordered from China to arrive in the post after I got home from the morning session down the club - I'll use the flanged ones on the front wheels and subsequent projects.

 

Also arriving in the post were the three higher speed motor/g'boxes so I'll have a play with those at home to see what equivalent road speed I can get out of them with a 3.7V iPod battery.

 

Hopefully, next week,  I'll get those front wheels bored out and I'll knock up the steering gear....well thats then plan anyway.

[Barnaby]

There's nothing of it left, but deep into the strip down.

[TimC]

No progress this week as I've got a stinking cold so no club, hopefully be back there next week.

[johnlostcreek]

Hi All

 

I`m John Vogelaar From the Netherlands. I build American narrow gauge

 

Inspired by the movie of Giles “the and of the line” I`m going to make a new layout in

1:35n2, with a RC control A-ford in 1:35 .and want to youse a AAGazz 1:35 kit for it.

 

The frame of the kit and the rear axle and the frond axle I build in brass.

 

On a forum of rc control in the Nethelands I found what rc control I needed,

The people with the small airplanes give me a lot of information and the site`s where I can bay the small stuff.

but there are no people with small rc cars I want to make

so I order:

one Blade dsm2 transmitter 4 channel mode 2

a Rx41d-v5 DSM2 Ultra Micro Receiver with Bi-Directional ESC

one HK 2.2gm Micro Servo at DT RC control systems from the UK http://www.deltang.co.uk/index.htm

one Mini 3-6V DC Gear Box Elektromotor 12mm Diam

 

I have the parts at home now and it is incredible how small the receiver and the servo is

Now I`m still waiting for the small brass bevel gears and the small ball bearings

I order from http://www.lemo-solar.de/index.php

When I have this parts I can start .

 

I whas looking for some small cars with Radio control long times ago my frind Daniel Caso

give me the tread of Giles and i am verry that I can see here how the rc for cars in small scale works.

 

When I start with biulding , I will put some pictures on the tread

 

 

Regards John

Edited March 27, 2013 by johnlostcreek

[Giles]

Hi John - i'm delighted that you have found the thread and videos interesting!

 

That new 1.7gm servo is a great improvement, and is significantly smaller than the 2.3 that I've been using - I shall buy a couple -so thank you very much for that.... Similarly, the website where you are getting your gears is new to me, and extremely useful.

 

Please do post your progress - it will be extremely interesting!

[johnlostcreek]

Hi Giles

 

This day the small brass bevel gears and the small ball bearings arrives from http://www.lemo-solar.de/index.php

Verry small stuff

Ball bearing Lower 1.5 x 4 x 2 mm internal diameter 1.5 mm,

http://www.lemo-sola...1293000100g.jpg

Command brass Head Ø 4,5 mm, pitch circle diameter of 4 mm, height 1.8 mm, 2.5 mm Ø Bund x 0.8 mm high, 1.5 mm bore

http://www.lemo-sola...1292000000g.jpg

 

I make a plan of the frame so the frame can milling

 

How can I put pictures on the tread ? When ther is a treat for it , please let me now.

 

The servo and the ultra micro reciver I order on http://www.micronrad...o.uk/servo.html

not on http://www.deltang.co.uk/index.htm but i think you found the ride page

 

I searched for sound in my car and found this (they say *** Smalles soundunit available *** )

Look at Soundunit TBS Micro V2.0

http://www.benedini....products_e.html

I hope this later build in my car under the bank of the car and the speaker at the top of the cab

I hope it fits, I make it in cardboard and its a lidle bit to large, so I look for a smaller one.

The point is. I want nothing see of the RC in and under the car. that is my challenge

 

 

 

Regards John

Edited March 28, 2013 by johnlostcreek

[johnlostcreek]

xx test

 

this I want to make

Edited March 28, 2013 by johnlostcreek

[Giles]

John, that looks like it will make a delightful RC model!

[Switcher102]

Hello Giles

Well, I've been meaning to congratulate you on this magnificent work for some time now, in fact it's the main reason I've joined RMWeb. This is one of the most impressive threads I have ever seen, and it so happens it's also just what I've been looking for. I was directed to it over a year ago now I think when posting on the O Gauge Guild forum about road transport and my ideas for its future i.e. making it actually work, not like the Faller system where they dart about like toys, but working remotely and moving more like the real things, with sound decoders in them and many other big ideas, and I find someone's already had a go .... excellent.

Whenever you delve into the world of remote control models you get funny looks if you mention prototypical movement, but this shows it can be done and how much more exciting it is to watch. You've done an excellent job Giles, a man after my own heart in such matters, and I thank you very much for the great work you have done on this, also in photographing and explaining the procedure so well to help us who are not so skilled. When I get more experienced at modelling I now have a superb step-by-step guide.

A big thing with me and models is movement, in fact so much so that I am even going to attempt to make it mechanically impossible for my models to move in any other way than like the prototype, even if they break down or the power cuts off. The big difference between a model and the real thing is the relative power of momentum.  Momentum has much greater power in the real thing, so, as I see it, the way to redress the balance in models is by the use of weight, flywheels and weaker motors. The motor should not have the power to start and stop the model suddenly. Only via the additional help of the flywheel torque should the motor be able to get the model moving. Of course, this also involves other complications, such as a centrifugal clutch and preferably continuously variable gears …. eeeek!  So, for road vehicles I will try for the same accuracy of motion but of course there's less space. Won't stop me trying though
 

Two things I aim to add to all my models, road and rail:-

Flywheels - Have you considered a flywheel? Do you think there would be room for an effective flywheel? I notice you have gone for a 1:100 ratio gear box, a wise choice when you only have the choice of one gear ratio. With such a high gear ratio even a small flywheel might be very effective in stopping any sudden stops and starts. Smooth continual movement I think makes such a difference to a model. It removes it so effectively from the world of the toy.

Suspension - I don't mean the normal type given to locomotives which is mainly to keep the wheels in contact with the track, I mean a type that actually noticeably bounces, at a realistically slower balletic rate. A mammoth task at such a small scale but I haven't given up on it yet. I reckon it means deleting springs from the design. Unless you are a spring manufacturer I'm not sure any springs on the market could be adapted to make such a small scale model bounce like the real thing. I think the solution has something to do with a balancing mechanism rather than springs (a see-saw action). I'll let you know if I develop such a system (would especially improve your model when being loaded).

 

Also something to bear in mind for road vehicles is that they receive extra suspension help from pneumatic tyres. Here's an idea for replacing your hard tyres with a softer version, it's a joy to watch this if only to see an artist at work:-

 

 

Then of course it would be nice to add tread, but how would you do that?

 

Something I will be looking into for remote control models is remote battery charging. Man handling the model every so often in order to recharge the battery is a bit of an illusion spoiler. Do you know anything about induction charging? It seems to me that there could be a designated area on your layout where you could park up your lorry and recharge the battery without even touching it.

 

Bear in mind that all this is theory on my part at the moment.  You may be thinking these ideas are just going too far but for me quantity is not really a need, it's quality I am much more interested in, and you've made a superb start towards that aim. Thanks again Giles

 

Rich

[johnlostcreek]

Hi Rich.

 

Nice to have a new Member on this thread.

Tell us what your experiences are. and share it with us. we can always learn from each other.

 

You can only mount a flywheel on a motor shaft.

It makes no sense to put a flywheel on the gearbox, because the speed is slowly for effect.

You may require a motor without gearbox with flywheel mount.

Then make the gearbox on the drive shaft.

With cars there will be no room. Bevel gears with large delay are too large, I Think

Another gearbox on the rear axle seems to be too big, but maybey i`m wrong.

I want with a prototype differencieel. So the gearbox on the rear axel, too big for me,

The idea to create a charging station where the cars recharge I find a good plan.

But if you have only one car you want to continue to drive.

I think of a battery of a mobile phone.

If you have two battery`s, you can have one in the car and the other in the phone charging.

 

I was told in the Rx41d-v5 is drive control.

Has anyone out there experience with it.

 

I started making my side frames of the chassis.

I have 2 plates of 2 mm brass soldered.

I have a drawing glued on it and milling

It is a start.

More pictures on:http://www.lostcreek.nl/1op35%20de%20bouw%20van%20de%20a-ford.htm

 

I hope someone can tell me how I can post photos with text around it. or the explanation about this in the forum. Ihaven't found it yet,

 

Tim and martin

I look forward to see the progress of your model.

 

regards John

Edited March 30, 2013 by johnlostcreek

[Giles]

Hi Rich,

Thank you very much - and I'm delighted that you've enjoyed the thread - and I greatly look forward to seeing your srtuff!

 

It's great to carry on pushing the boundaries- and i'm all for it.

The only small centrifugal clutch that was avalable was 'dyna-drive' so far as I am aware - but even that would be large inour application. Still, it depends what vehicle one was making.

 

Some of the motor/gear units I use have a shaft extention outnthe back, and would take a light flywheel (you probably wouldn't want to over do it)!

 

One could spring the rear axle without adding more complications by having the rear axle bearings, and the motor/gearbox all mounted on a subframe, and springing that......

 

The tyres are nice, and you could probably further mould then in a thin layer of black latex rubber to give you treads ( youd have to take a cast of a finished one with an 'axle' to centre it). Once dry, polish it up with talc would grey it down and stop it from sticking

 

Induction charging.... I get bored before the battery runs out!. On exhibition, I'm getting over three hours out of each lorry.

 

All the very best, and Happy Easter

 

Giles

[Giles]

Hi John,

 

I've taken the liberty of translating your excellent page....

 

http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=nl&tl=en&u=http%3A//www.lostcreek.nl/1op35%2520de%2520bouw%2520van%2520de%2520a-ford.htm

 

I use the DelTang receivers, and dind them excellent. Buying them direct from David, I have found him extremely helpful in answering any queries I might have as well!

[johnlostcreek]

Hi Giles,

 

good idea to translate my page.

you have the experience that there is a speed controller in the Rx41d-v5 ???

or is standing still or driving

 

John

[Giles]

Hi John,

There certainly is a speed controller in the Rx41d-v5 - that is what is in my red lorry

 

 

And it works very well, and is very easy to drive. It was so good, I then put one in the blue lorry as well!