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Cannot get my airbrush clean... HELP!! with explanation video...


Ralf
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Ok, first an admission, this is the second time using my H&S Ultra airbrush, it looked and seemed clean after my last use but I had a couple of issues starting this session as the paint wouldn't flow and low paint volumes (kept the air on full), after a cleaner and poking about inside the nozzle things improved. 

 

So painting done (well it isn't but I've given up for today, it's cleaning time. No matter how many YouTube videos I use, no matter how much Vallejo Airbrush cleaner I squirt I cannot get rid of this grey primer that keeps on coming out, and honestly I've been cleaning, spraying, reaming, dismantling and watching videos for a hour or more now, then squirt more cleaner and there's more grey paint... 

 

So where's it coming from, how do I get rid of it? See (terrible) video attached that does at least illustrate my problem and features some heavy breathing...

 

 

 

Thanks
Ralf

 

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Ralf said:

Ok, first an admission, this is the second time using my H&S Ultra airbrush, it looked and seemed clean after my last use but I had a couple of issues starting this session as the paint wouldn't flow and low paint volumes (kept the air on full), after a cleaner and poking about inside the nozzle things improved. 

 

So painting done (well it isn't but I've given up for today, it's cleaning time. No matter how many YouTube videos I use, no matter how much Vallejo Airbrush cleaner I squirt I cannot get rid of this grey primer that keeps on coming out, and honestly I've been cleaning, spraying, reaming, dismantling and watching videos for a hour or more now, then squirt more cleaner and there's more grey paint... 

 

So where's it coming from, how do I get rid of it? See (terrible) video attached that does at least illustrate my problem and features some heavy breathing...

 

 

 

Thanks
Ralf

 

 

 

Must admit I wondered which part of your anatomy you were test spraying! 😎

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What I do to clean my airbrush is initially fill the reservoir about 3/4 full of cleaner then use a small clean paintbrush (e.g. size 4) and gently brush round all the insides and push it down onto the needle shaft, then spray it out into an airbrush pot and repeat. Then I dismantle it and make sure the needle and the nozzle parts are all clean, washing under the tap if necessary. Then dry everything, reassemble and finally connect it back up to the compressor and blow air through until no more water vapour comes out.

 

A good tip I read somewhere is, when dismantling, don’t pull the needle out backwards like it says in the instructions.

Instead, after unscrewing the nozzle, push it out forwards being very careful to avoid damaging the tip.

The reason being, if you pull it out backwards any paint that is still present is going to be dragged through the seals into the clean part of the airbrush and you’ll never be able to get rid of it.

 

When reassembling, I push the needle in backwards (I.e. from the front). When the back of the shaft pops out the back, pull it through until the needle is just behind the screw thread for the nozzle. Screw in the nozzle and the tip protector, then push the needle all the way forwards, then screw on the rear lock screw.

 

Doing it this way there is far less chance of damaging the delicate pointy bit.

 

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Buy some cellulose thinners - Halfords. Strip the air brush. Put all the parts (tips and spray nozzle) into a seal able jar. Cover in celly. Swill the parts around vigorously, leave for an hour or two, repeat swilling. 

Wet some paper towel with celly and wipe over the needle - don't apply any pressure to the needle. Gentle strokes.

 

Remove the small parts from the jam jar using some tweezers. Dispose of the celly - you could probably pour it back to the tin. Celly dries really quickly in air. Reassemble the air brush.

Put a small (tiny) amount of these thinners into the cup and blow it thru.

 

Cellulose will dissolve enamel and acrylic paint.

 

Best to do this outside, as celly really smells...and lingers!

 

regards

 

Mike

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10 hours ago, Mike G said:

Put all the parts (tips and spray nozzle) into a seal able jar. Cover in celly. Swill the parts around vigorously, leave for an hour or two, repeat swilling. 

Do ensure any none-metal parts are NOT soaked in Cellulose - by all means flush cellulose through the brush but be very cautious.

Chris H

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The airbrush cleaner I’ve used for years is a 50/50 mix of IPA and Railmatch Acrylic Waterborne Thinners.

 

A thorough strip down after every session (also the airbrush!!) For getting into the nozzle I use the extra small toothpick thingies - see photo.

To withdraw needle, slacken locknut, ease needle back a few millimetres, enough to clear nozzle then unscrew the nozzle section then push needle out frontwards (as others have mentioned).

After cleaning, I smear a tiny film of airbrush lubricant to the ball of my left thumb (I am right handed), then roll the needle in this and then insert lubricated needle from the rear  - ensuring the tapered point passes smoothly through the internal O ring.

The lubricant is also applied to the trigger button shaft.

 

For health reasons I can only use acrylic pigments and cannot offer suggestions for cleaning after using enamels.

 

IMG_1216.jpeg.ed99a39c523e06b20880d5eec4d4ea0c.jpeg

 

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‘Liquid Reamer’ from airbrushes.com is pretty effective.

 

After cleaning my airbrush I put all the parts in a untrasonic bath filled with water plus a little airbrush cleaner. After a few minutes in the machine I dry all the bits and reassemble it.  Works for me.  

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As I only use enamels I don't get the problems that acrylics seem to bring to airbrushes.  With enamels a good spray through with white spirit after painting is usully adequate, especially if you're just changing colours mid session, but I do usually do a partial strip down of the brush before putting it away - it doesn't take long and it ensures I start with a clean airbrush next session.  Like ColinK I also give the airbrush a go in the ultrsonic bath every now and again.

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Liquid reamer or Mr. Tool Cleaner R  is my cleaner of choice.

 

What make (Model Air, Tamiya, Etc)  and type of paint (acrylic, synthetic acrylic, lacquer, enamel)  were you spraying? 

 

A useful resource for hints and type is the Flory Models YouTube channel. His website he has a tutorials section with one on airbrush troubleshooting 

 

 

Jonathan

 

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13 hours ago, JeffP said:

I've also found Wickes paintbrush cleaner, the blue stuff, to be excellent.

Once it has done it's job it can be washed off with water as it is miscible.

 

Ok, I follow that, so do would I wash off Rustin's Cellulose thinners? 

 

 

11 hours ago, Gilbert said:

Do ensure any none-metal parts are NOT soaked in Cellulose - by all means flush cellulose through the brush but be very cautious.

 

 

Assume this mostly applies to o-rings and the like? It's beginning to sound a like a minefield that every YouTube channel promises it isn't...

 

8 hours ago, Gt.Shefford said:

What make (Model Air, Tamiya, Etc)  and type of paint (acrylic, synthetic acrylic, lacquer, enamel)  were you spraying? 

 

 

@ColinK it was Vellejo Grey Acrylic Primer - 74.601, so AFAIK it's not self-etching. 

 

Rustins Cellulose thinners order for a rinse and brief soak tomorrow... 

 

Thanks all for the input so far...


Ralf

 

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9 hours ago, Gt.Shefford said:

A useful resource for hints and type is the Flory Models YouTube channel. His website he has a tutorials section with one on airbrush troubleshooting 

 

 

Thanks Jonathon, watching through the video, at 17:42 his cleaner sprays grey on his cutting mat, in my world that's traces of grey primer that I've been using. 

 

How do I know if it's grey appearance atomised cleaner OR residual grey primer? 

 

Thanks
Ralf

 

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13 hours ago, Ralf said:

 

Thanks Jonathon, watching through the video, at 17:42 his cleaner sprays grey on his cutting mat, in my world that's traces of grey primer that I've been using. 

 

How do I know if it's grey appearance atomised cleaner OR residual grey primer? 

 

Thanks
Ralf

 


Rather than spraying onto your hand, spray onto a piece of white paper. When it dries, if it’s grey then it’s paint, if it’s clear it’s not.

 

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5 hours ago, GWR57xx said:


Rather than spraying onto your hand, spray onto a piece of white paper. When it dries, if it’s grey then it’s paint, if it’s clear it’s not.

 


That’s a simple, easy and effective answer, thanks!! 
 

Ralf 

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