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Swissrail's Carriage Works


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Hello all.

I thought I'd start a new thread for my latest coachbuilding saga as the the ones I have on the stocks at the moment are LMS and LNER.

No further pictures just now but a warning. I masked the shells this morning with Duck brand blue paper masking tape so I could spray their interiors. THIS TAPE IS RUBBISH AND MUST BE AVOIDED AT ALL COSTS! As I spray with car acrylic the tape was only on the sides for about two hours, however, when I came to remove it left its adhesive on every edge it had touched...grab handles,door hoods, top and bottom of the sides and every window edge. DISASTER!. It's taken me another hour to remove all the adhesive using judicious rubbing with my thumbs and picking at it with a scalpel blade. God knows what would have happened if it had been left on overnight as might have been the case if I'd sprayed with enamel. I'll have to source the 3M white paper variety of masking tape as it was fine.

 

Alan McMillan

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Thanks for that heads-up, Alan. Looking forward to pictures when you post them - you can never have enough LNER, really. And some of the red stuff can look smart.

 

Hi

For the sake of completeness I've decided to repost the 'under construction' pictures I had put on my original post about GW vehicles for the benefit of yourself and others who may not have seen them.

 

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Footboard Brackets

 

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Footboards

 

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Footboard Brackets attached to the bogie frame

 

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The finished article

 

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Brake rodding and dymano drive belt

 

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The three coaches in primer. The colourful stuff starts next week.

 

Alan McMillan

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Is the wire around the dynamo a sort of safety loop? I'd not seen that before, thanks.

 

 

Hi Craig

It's intended to be the wiring but I now realise from your comments that I may have gotten its layout a bit wrong!

 

Alan

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Hi Swissrail,

 

Enjoying the detail shots of the chassis/dynamo parts. Modellling the wiring looks easy to do and gives the model a very realistic appearance.

 

More photos please when you have time!

 

Colin

 

Hi Colin

The wiring is easy to do if you've got a steady hand! It just seemed like a little detail you don't often see that adds a touch of je ne sais quoi. Also I do like to have a sense of weight below the floor although I draw the line at putting in things that can't be seen unless the coach is upside down. More pictures will follow next week showing them in ex-works condition then after they're weathered.

 

Alan

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Hi Craig

It's intended to be the wiring but I now realise from your comments that I may have gotten its layout a bit wrong!

Alan

I haven't really looked closely at how these things were wired so you may be spot on, my comment was more curiosity from not knowing. I'm fully in wagon mode at the moment so haven't looked too closely under many coaches in that area!

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Excellent! Thanks Mike.

 

Alan

 

Hello all!

As promised here are pictures of two of the three coaches I have been building lately, now painted. They are unvarnished as yet and have no glazing so far as I want to weather them before it goes in. The Thompson corridor brake composite is not yet there - being carmine and cream it's taken a bit longer than the other two - I did the last of the lining this morning and I want to leave it alone for 24 hours. I'll post that one in a day or so. Sorry my photgraphy is rubbish!!

 

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Hi Steph,

 

Superb modelling! What type of paint do you use?

 

Colin

 

Hi Colin

It's Alan actually but thank you for your comments!

The paint I use is car cellulose. The maroon is BMC/Austin/Rover Damask Red and the carmine is Ford Venetian Red.

Regards

 

Alan

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Hi Colin

It's Alan actually but thank you for your comments!

The paint I use is car cellulose. The maroon is BMC/Austin/Rover Damask Red and the carmine is Ford Venetian Red.

Regards

 

Alan

 

 

Oops! Sorry Alan. I was flitting from one topic to another there and got confused (I must keep off the MEK). Thanks for the response to my question. Interesting to see that you use car colours. I suppose these are more durable for use on brass. I apologise for asking another question, but do you spray direct from the can?

 

Colin

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Oops! Sorry Alan. I was flitting from one topic to another there and got confused (I must keep off the MEK). Thanks for the response to my question. Interesting to see that you use car colours. I suppose these are more durable for use on brass. I apologise for asking another question, but do you spray direct from the can?

 

Colin

 

 

Yes I do although the spray head is one I disovered on a can I had years ago that produces a nicer finish than some heads I've found. Most seem to have a very wide spray pattern but this one doesn't. I've never been able to get cellulose to work from an airbrush. The few times I've tried it the paint was dry before it hit the coach side and as a result ended up looking like a fur coat. Disaster! However, cellulose is a better paint than enamel, not so much for brass as such but from the point of view that because it dries very quickly it means that dust is less of a factor.

Regards

 

Alan

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Yes I do although the spray head is one I disovered on a can I had years ago that produces a nicer finish than some heads I've found. Most seem to have a very wide spray pattern but this one doesn't. I've never been able to get cellulose to work from an airbrush. The few times I've tried it the paint was dry before it hit the coach side and as a result ended up looking like a fur coat. Disaster! However, cellulose is a better paint than enamel, not so much for brass as such but from the point of view that because it dries very quickly it means that dust is less of a factor.

Regards

 

Alan

 

 

Hi Alan,

 

Your reply explains a lot! I had never really thought about different types of spray heads, but I swore I'd never use cans again after a diaster with acrylic undercoat on a Ratio van..... maybe I'll try again.

 

Colin

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  • 3 years later...
  • RMweb Premium

OK so this is being very picky but it may help other builders of this type of coach; the D1703 with Comet sides.

I looked (was linked here from a RMWeb archive search) here as I was seeking inspiration for a build of the full Comet kit of a D1703 I am about to start. I found the inspiration as this is a lovely build, but with one thing I must point out.

As it is almost four years ago I am sure the builder has since realised that one needs to consider whether to  scribe the lower parts of the door etches on the lower panels of the sides on this and some other side etches. It needs to be done before forming the turn-under. It also needs to be done carefully as the etches are on quite thin brass.

 

I had failed to notice that before completing the sides on a couple of Gresleys I built way back.  They needed the same treatment and I'd forgotten what Geoff at Comet had told me - doh! You do notice if it's not done - honestly.

That's how I know............. :scared:

Anyhow, I've learnt some great new 'tricks' from here; e.g the dynamo belt and bogie footbards - very clever work. Thanks.

Sincerely,

P @ 36E

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This is what I was mumbling about; not that clear I'm sorry to say but shows some of the 'scribed' door 'edges' on the lower panels. They will probably not even show once it is painted :threaten:

Very neat little representations of the lower door hinges on this Comet Sides etch; not come across these before (sad boy..... obviously not done enough LMS/Midland stock). The top and middle prototype hinges were hardly noticeable so I won't bother with those. What a hinge fitting time saver - hooray.

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The sides have 'become' a little more 'sturdy with the turn-under having been formed  and the drops soldered in. However, I think I may still either solder some scrap etch along almost the length of the inside faces of the sides or recommend to the new owner that he puts in some sort of 'strengthening' devices; e.g. some sort of strip along the inner face of the sides and/or cross braces between the sides at just below cantrail height, once he has the interior in place. I'm sure square profile plastistrut would suffice for the sides.

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