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A new Inglenook? Pile Street?


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  • RMweb Gold
2 minutes ago, ColinK said:

What’s your thoughts on the sleeper things (sorry forgotten their name) you’ve used at the baseboard joint?

Used them on a few layouts now - so far so good and a lot less faff than copper clad sleepers or brass screws.

https://www.modeltech.uk/

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Many thanks, I’m helping a friend build a layout and am contemplatibg using them instead of my usual method of a piece of copper clad paxolin laid across the baseboard joint, often with several tracks on it, then cut along the baseboard joint.

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  • RMweb Gold

Given that in order to work the curved bits either side of the joint must be slightly proud of the edge how are you avoiding damage? Have you had to cut a small slot into your board end protector pieces or similar?

 

Edited by john new
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  • RMweb Gold
20 minutes ago, john new said:

Given that in order to work the curved bits either side of the joint must be slightly proud of the edge how are you avoiding damage? Have you had to cut a small slot into your board end protector pieces or similar?

 

I slightly off set the board end track protectors by about 3mm - using the same ply I inset into the cork - John. I don't have a photo but I'll sort one when I next have one of the layouts out. The layout still fits in the RUB with them in place.

Chris

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18 hours ago, Gilbert said:

Progress...and testing...

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I'm watching this build with particular interest Chris as my 77L box is currently sat on the dining room table ... and some wood has been cut !!

 

Your Lockdown Fen and Cropper Street layout threads and articles have also been re-read ... but progress will be slow and I'll start my own thread when it is more advanced, in the meantime I shall indulge in watching Pile Street develop.

 

Regards,

Ian.

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  • RMweb Gold
57 minutes ago, 03060 said:

 

I'm watching this build with particular interest Chris as my 77L box is currently sat on the dining room table ... and some wood has been cut !!

 

Your Lockdown Fen and Cropper Street layout threads and articles have also been re-read ... but progress will be slow and I'll start my own thread when it is more advanced, in the meantime I shall indulge in watching Pile Street develop.

 

Regards,

Ian.

Don't hold your breath Ian - 😉 - I plan to make sure all the stock, track, couplers etc work well before much else is done and fixed down . I may carry on with some buildings etc and I'm making and fitting S&W couplers to stock.

I made the mistake on Timsbury Bottom of not really testing everything - including the S&W couplers before I did scenery etc.

TB will re-emerge but rebuilt longer with points of at least medium length...( an RUB and a half)

Chris

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

I've had a bit of an issue with wagon axle B to Bs and Peco BH medium points - now hopefully resolved so the track painting has commenced....some test pieces have been thrown together.

First photo is of a test piece. Initial spray can of Railmatch sleeper grime, dusted with Humbrol #30 "Dark Earth" (as my generation would call it) followed by airbrushed Precision weathered wood track colour..front track has now Precision "Rusty Rails" applied thinly by rigger brush which really starts to bring things to life..

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Layout has had base sleeper colours applied now.

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I'm currently pondering next steps - I'd normally go for some dry brushing on the sleepers with a light blending over spray of Precision weathered wood track colour (after ballasting). However, I may experiment with some pigments along the lines of the approach adopted by Rob (NHY 581)

ChrisH

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On 12/05/2024 at 16:54, Gilbert said:

A bit of time was found today to prime the brick work on the signal box..

 

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Chris H

 

What is the origin of the laser-cut signal box, Chris?

 

David

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  • RMweb Gold
On 19/02/2024 at 12:54, Gilbert said:

Extra wood for mounting the point motors


What are you using for point motors, one of my stumbling blocks with SMS baseboards is the lack of room below them… 

 

Hoping to embark on a beginners inglenook soon to avoid failures to complete project (when I set the standards too high for my skills) soon, so watching with interest. 
 

thanks 

Ralf 

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Is the 77L RUB the size stated for wrapping paper etc? I looked at them recently for a small 2mm layout and discovered they are really just a few inches too short, under 30”. If this is what you’re using you have my total admiration for squeezing it all in 4mm. 
 

Bob

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40 minutes ago, Izzy said:

Is the 77L RUB the size stated for wrapping paper etc? I looked at them recently for a small 2mm layout and discovered they are really just a few inches too short, under 30”. If this is what you’re using you have my total admiration for squeezing it all in 4mm. 
 

Bob

Described as Christmas tree 🎄 box

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28 minutes ago, Izzy said:

Is the 77L RUB the size stated for wrapping paper etc? I looked at them recently for a small 2mm layout and discovered they are really just a few inches too short, under 30”. If this is what you’re using you have my total admiration for squeezing it all in 4mm. 
 

Bob


The 77L RUB boxes are 44" long and 9" wide, I got one via my local Argos store within 24 hrs of ordering it having also been inspired by @Gilbert's and a few others super layouts. It's a current WIP but not being rushed.

 

As with the comments above this and the Lockdown Fen and Cropper Street threads are great inspiration in showing what can be done to create an interesting, nicely modelled and most importantly useable layout in a small, containable and protected space ... although mine will need 2 77L boxes (and possibly a 3rd smaller box)to achieve what I want.

 

Regards,

Ian.

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Ah, thanks for all the replies about the 77L RUB's. I've been looking at the wrong ones in Hobbycraft it seems! About half the depth as well as shorter. And half the price @ £17. No wonder I couldn't work it out!

 

Bob

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  • RMweb Gold
On 01/06/2024 at 01:30, Ralf said:


What are you using for point motors, one of my stumbling blocks with SMS baseboards is the lack of room below them… 

 

Hoping to embark on a beginners inglenook soon to avoid failures to complete project (when I set the standards too high for my skills) soon, so watching with interest. 
 

thanks 

Ralf 

I'm using MTB MP1s (but with a Frog Juicer) I'll ry to do some photos of the current set up but here's an early view:

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Its worth looking at Chadwick on YT.

 

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While I had the layout out for some photos of the underneath I decided to rust the rails...

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including the first 100mm of the Fiddle Stick

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I've been experimenting with track work...this is a test piece and the ballast is just loose to get a feel for colours etc. I feel the sleepers may need to be a bit darker and once everything is done I will do an overall blending mist with the airbrush to give it a more weathered look...buffer is also just sat on the board and will need a bit of dry brushing etc.

53784125165_013041898d_c.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)

Having been distracted and slowed down by mojo-harming and unexpected running issues relating to back to backs on some rtr wagons and gauge tightening on the turnouts I decided to do something more progressive.

I've been making a few bits for a footbridge which were then mocked up - there will be brick sides on the front and it will go across to a ginnell of some sort between industrial buildings at the rear. Stairs and bridge sides are hopefully the finished articles. Brickwork to follow.

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"Inspired by" Guinea Street on the Bristol Harbour railway. This link shows both the footbridge (68) and the tiny yard (65) that set me thinking about a Bristol-based micro.

railway-route-lrg.jpg

and here's a better view of the bridge

Bathurst Basin Bascule Bridge 1964

 

Edited by Gilbert
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

A bit of concept testing has occurred. A few of the current workbench projects have been put in place (very roughly) this morning.

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Chris H

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