Stanley Melrose Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 I understand that the proprietor of PenBits may well be looking at making a springing conversion kit for the Bachmann 10000/1 available in due course. We may have to wait a little while to give him a chance to scheme it out and get it into production but if it's anything like as good as his kit for the Deltic Prototype (which is the only one I have completed so far), I shall be a happy purchaser. Stan The bogie axle centres are totally different between Cl37 and the Twins though......so doubt the Penbits etchings will do what you want without severe alteration, in which case making your own parts from scratch would possibly be easier? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Downer Posted November 10, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 10, 2013 Can anyone confirm that for 1958 running I should paint the buffer housings red? Colour Rail pic of 10000/10001 on the Royal Scot in August 1958 shows 10000 with red housings. Pic is on p11 of Modern Locomotives Illustrated 185. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 A green with yellow warning panel 10001 will soon be visiting my Croxley WRD layout in the near future most likely on a freight working to the Brewery on the extension! Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted November 11, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 11, 2013 Thanks Downer, some red paint will be applied before the next showing of Summat Colliery. Today I have done a test fit with a 28mm paper speaker in the standard housing. To say connecting wires to the contacts is fiddly is an understatement! More work please Bachmann.... I'll run it up tomorrow to see how it sounds. I also plan to remove the whole housing and fan to see if a good old 20x40mm speaker with the low profile housing sounds significantly better. More to follow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted November 12, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 12, 2013 OK, here's the vid As it stands its a bog standard Digitrains (Paul Chetter) class 50 Zimo chip. I fitted an ABS-221-RC (Maplin N97FU) 28mm round speaker in the standard enclosure, sealing the speaker to the enclosure with "black-tak" then sealed the enclosure to the fan housing with the same stuff. I think it sounds pretty good and will keep it as it is, sharn't bother with the 20x40mm speaker - I'll use it somewhere else no doubt Next step, some remapping to remove the horn off F3, move the sound from F2 to F3 so I get just the low tone and then remap the aux function for the cab lights to F2, hopefully Paul can save me hours of pouring over the manuals and send me some cv settings ...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 7013 Posted November 12, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 12, 2013 Sounds good Ian perhaps when you do your re-mapping you could share the CV settings you use when you get them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted November 12, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 12, 2013 Of course Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted November 13, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 13, 2013 Colour Rail pic of 10000/10001 on the Royal Scot in August 1958 shows 10000 with red housings. Pic is on p11 of Modern Locomotives Illustrated 185. One more question please - did it have overhead electrification warning signs or not? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Downer Posted November 13, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 13, 2013 One more question please - did it have overhead electrification warning signs or not? No. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Following the abandonment of the wholescale closure of the M&GN system that was supposed to happen in 1959, some change in motive power has been noticed. Today's afternoon through train from Leicester (well, actually Barwell) via Peterborough (T4U) duly arrived at Hunst'on (aka Hunstanton) hauled by 10000. However upon arrival, it seems the driver failed the loco, being unable to turn off the cab lights! The return working was therefore entrusted to another Ivatt, but newer, a "Flying Pig" 2-6-0 as normal. It appears the diesel may be dragged to Melton Constable for repair; the rumour mill says that the painters there are already stirring up tins of Golden Ochre just in case..... Stewart (once again applying Rule 1 in full) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry.ecmr Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 No. Don't know when they were applied but this 1962 shot of 10000 shows it with overhead warning flashes. Second photo is undated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Downer Posted November 13, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 13, 2013 Don't know when they were applied but this 1962 shot of 10000 shows it with overhead warning flashes. Second photo is undated. I think Redgate's question applied to 1958. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagrizz Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 One more question please - did it have overhead electrification warning signs or not? According to the Wild Swan book, overhead warning flashes were applied to 10000 and 10001 in 1960. Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Don't know when they were applied but this 1962 shot of 10000 shows it with overhead warning flashes. Second photo is undated. Where they in the same positions on the other end/side? Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagrizz Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Where they in the same positions on the other end/side? Regards From the Wild Swan book again; "...warning flashes were applied above the engine compartment doors and on the left-hand nose cone doors........." On 10001 though, a photo indicates that the warning flash on the end door is much lower - approx in the middle of the yellow panel. Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Just to add my tuppence to the accolades, 10000 with primrose roof c1957 arrived this week from Rails. Seems to me to run very well, not much noise I thought, and the overall appearance and finish is excellent. Fingers crossed 10001 in the same scheme will appear in the not too distant future - seriously Bachmann, I can't believe there will be many with one of these that won't snap up the other to make the pair! John Tomlinson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Don't know when they were applied but this 1962 shot of 10000 shows it with overhead warning flashes. Second photo is undated. D5029 went into traffic in November 1959 if that helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 7013 Posted November 17, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2013 Interesting development with my 10000. Tried to take the body off to put a decoder in, the screws either just carried on turning and did not come out, or stubbornly refused to undo despite putting much more pressure on than would normally be necessary. I was using my normal fine screwdriver I have used on several Bachmann bodies, but even a change to a finer driver yielded the same results. Also it is not made clear if it is the outer four screws only that need removing or the four outer and the four inner screws either side of the fuel tank need removing as well. I does not matter anyway because the loco is going back to Barwell for them to have a look. To say I am disappointed is an understatement, I hope nobody else has this problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Melrose Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Interesting development with my 10000. Tried to take the body off to put a decoder in, the screws either just carried on turning and did not come out, or stubbornly refused to undo despite putting much more pressure on than would normally be necessary. I was using my normal fine screwdriver I have used on several Bachmann bodies, but even a change to a finer driver yielded the same results. Also it is not made clear if it is the outer four screws only that need removing or the four outer and the four inner screws either side of the fuel tank need removing as well. I does not matter anyway because the loco is going back to Barwell for them to have a look. To say I am disappointed is an understatement, I hope nobody else has this problem. Persevere! 5 of the 8 screws in mine were as tight as anything you care to desire but surrendered eventually to a small flat-bladed screwdriver with the handle held in a small mole wrench. The screws all came out cleanly in the end. Stan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 7013 Posted November 17, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2013 Blimey! I will give it one more go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 7013 Posted November 17, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2013 Retry was useless as the screws turn but do not come out, and I think one of the screw housings is broken inside, this is a return for repair or refund sadly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Melrose Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Retry was useless as the screws turn but do not come out, and I think one of the screw housings is broken inside, this is a return for repair or refund sadly. OK, have you tried to ease the body away from the chassis now that the screws are freely moving? I reckon that it wasn't just superhuman strength on behalf of the Chinese assembler but the addition of some glue to the post into which the screws fit that caused mine to be so tight. Whether the screws in mine were in the same state as yours, I don't know but I found that once the screws moved a couple of turns, I could ease the body away from the chassis. I don't think 8 screws will be necessary once I put it all back together again (after it is converted to P4 for which I await delivery of the relevant wheels). I did run mine in for a couple of hours on a rolling road before I dismantled it and all was running well so I am happy that it will be OK again, once it has the "proper" wheels installed. Stan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaneofFife Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 if the screws are turning, whether the body now comes off seems superfluous. how would you secure the body when putting it back on if the threads are u/s? sounds like an over vigorous line assembler has over tightened them stripping the threads in the chassis. i would go for the exchange and maybe even try it in the shop. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 The 8 screws are self tappers into plastic pillars. A few turns to loosen them, and then pull the body up, unscrewing some more at the same time if neccessary. Some of mine stayed in the chassis with the body removed. Even with no screws, the body stays on ok, I wouldn't bother returning it for that. I only took mine apart to remove all the lights, so I don't know about decoder fitting. Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 7013 Posted November 17, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2013 Thanks chaps but the screws turn and the body still remains fixed, there is clearly something not right and I do not shell out good money for faulty goods so its going back to Bachmann for repair or exchange. I also found that one of the screw wells must have a hole in it because when I put a very fine screwdriver in it continued into the chassis, shame really but I am not one who accepts models with faults they go back for repair, replacement or refund (if they cannot be rectified simply), and this unfortunately appears not to be a simple problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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