Where is the best place to buy copper strips?

[SNCF stephen]

I know this might seem like a rather silly question to ask but I have no idea where to purchase some copper strip so that I can solder rails to either side of a join.

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction? Is this something a DIY specialist might stock?

 

Also does anyone have any hints about how to best do this? I have a very rough idea of how to do it and I am guessing my efforts will involve lots of swearing and possibly burnt fingers from soldering. I am modelling in N using code 80 Peco track.

 

Thanks for any help you might be able to offer.

 

Stephen

[corax67]

cheapest option is to use copper clad board from somewhere like Maplins

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=2112

 

 

or you can get copper clad sleeper material (the same thing pre-cut into scale sized strips) from specialist companies such as SMP

 

http://www.smpscaleway.com/

 

look at CCS2 for N Gauge sleeper material

[Kris]

Depending where your nearest Maplin is, you might need to order the copper clad, not all of their stores carry this as standard range.

[BigAndy]

Stephen,

 

Putting copper-clad at joints is a bit of a 'suck it and see' sort of skill to master.

 

I would reccomend that before you cut any copper clad, burnish it first with a glass fibre pen or wet and dry ( this will help for soldering and the solder adhering)

 

Once you've cut your copper clad to sleeper length,drill a hole at opposite ends of the sleeper, just wide enough to take a track pin, place it into the correct position and pack it to the right height ( just so its touching the underside of the rail)

You can pack it with bits of card.

 

Once positioned, pin the copper clad down to your board, so that it is now immobile. (if you'd rather, you could always use some 'no nails' or other such substance, but then of course, you have to wait whilst it sets)

 

Once everything is in place, apply a bit of flux ( so that the solder runs inbetween the rail and the copperclad) and place your iron , using as small an ammount of solder as possible.

 

That's it really! Just have a go, you'll know when you've got it right.

[SNCF stephen]

Thank you everyone for your quick responses. I shall have a look for a good Maplin and pay them a visit.

 

I always find soldering a nightmare so I think I may get my father in law to help with that part of the job. Although I have tried many different ways of trying to solder, I just cannot get it right.

[DerekEm8]

Stephen,

 

Putting copper-clad at joints is a bit of a 'suck it and see' sort of skill to master.

 

I would reccomend that before you cut any copper clad, burnish it first with a glass fibre pen or wet and dry ( this will help for soldering and the solder adhering)

 

Once you've cut your copper clad to sleeper length,drill a hole at opposite ends of the sleeper, just wide enough to take a track pin, place it into the correct position and pack it to the right height ( just so its touching the underside of the rail)

You can pack it with bits of card.

 

Once positioned, pin the copper clad down to your board, so that it is now immobile. (if you'd rather, you could always use some 'no nails' or other such substance, but then of course, you have to wait whilst it sets)

 

Once everything is in place, apply a bit of flux ( so that the solder runs inbetween the rail and the copperclad) and place your iron , using as small an ammount of solder as possible.

 

That's it really! Just have a go, you'll know when you've got it right.

 

And don't forget to carefully cut a gap in the copperclad between the rails.

[scotcent]

My own personal preference (and I write as one whose layout is very permanent) is to put in a countersunk head brass screw exactly underneath each rail, and close to the baseboard edge. Screw it in or out to get the level right and solder the rail very firmly to it. Incidentally for years I used Jenolite (rust remover from Halfords) as a flux for soldering. Exceedingly effective, but don't breathe in the fumes, and be sure to rinse off the residue. And be sure to clean all the surfaces with glass fibre brush or fine abrasive paper.

 

Allan F

[darren01]

Hi

C+L do copper clad strips cut to the same size as sleepers, I slid my sleepers under the rail across the base board join and then put a drop of super glue at each end .

The super glue will run under the sleeper and hold it down, one thing are you going to fit aliment Dows across the board joins.

If you do get them from C+L ask for the thickest one he has ,you will still have to put a slim piece of plasti card under to raise them up a little .

And don't forget to cut through the copper on both sides, just use a file or you will end up with an electrical short.

Hope this helps you

all the best

Darren

 

 

 

 

 

[AndyB]

I know this might seem like a rather silly question to ask...

 

Not at all, Stephen. This is something I'm about to embark on and was mulling over options!

Thanks to all who posted.

Andy

[gwrrob]

Does anyone know if this is available at somewhere like Hobbycraft or is it too specialist.

[Coombe Barton]

Does anyone know if this is available at somewhere like Hobbycraft or is it too specialist.

Much, much too specialist - Maplins at Gallagher Park had copperclad last time I was in there about 3 weeks ago.

[David Todd]

They have various sizes.....................but.......... not Hobbycraft...........

 

http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=copper&product_id=3478

[Pete 75C]

A quick question if I may?

When using copperclad at a baseboard join (for example), having fluxed, do you heat the rail, the copperclad or the solder?

[Baby Deltic]

A quick question if I may?

When using copperclad at a baseboard join (for example), having fluxed, do you heat the rail, the copperclad or the solder?

Both. Keep the iron in the 'corner' between the two and run a solder fillet joint in once its hot enough.

[TheQ]

Maplins have a very good web site from which you can order, there is a shop finder on there as well, I've used them for about 35 years from when they did mail order from one shop in Southend. As for soldering lay the rail to the board and hold in place without pressing down too hard, hold solder to the side of the copper/rail joint then heat, when you can remove the iron while leaving solder attached to the copper and rail you should have a good joint which intheory be a concave shape. If you were to try to heat the rail first you would need a large iron as it would heat the whole rail and possibly melt nearby sleepers. Heating just the copperclad first may lift the copper off of its board. Note the rail will get hot just over the joint use something other than your finger to give the light pressure!!! You know its a lot harder to explain than to show to solder!!

The Q

[Debs.]

Not perhaps applicable to the O.P`s requirements; but if a piece or thicker solid-copper sheet is needed for any purpose.....a 22 mm. dia. central heating pipe offcut, slit longitudinally and heated to cherry red with a gas-torch and then quickly quenched, will enable the annealed pipe to be easily unrolled by hand and tapped dead flat on a smooth bench with a wooden/plastic/rubber mallet.

 

In its annealed state it may be cut, worked and soldered easily and before not too much time passes, it will age/work-harden to a durable stability.

[Pete 75C]

Both. Keep the iron in the 'corner' between the two and run a solder fillet joint in once its hot enough.

 

Thanks. I need to make up some cassettes, so I'll try and elevate my soldering skills from "poor" to "mediocre". Appreciated, thank you.

[Baby Deltic]

Thanks. I need to make up some cassettes, so I'll try and elevate my soldering skills from "poor" to "mediocre". Appreciated, thank you.

If you want ideas for cassettes, check out my layout thread on the link in my signature.

 

Edit: see post #370 page 15 on the Sumatra Road thread.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6210-sumatra-road-the-north-london-railway-in-the-1960s/page-15

[Il Grifone]

Not perhaps applicable to the O.P`s requirements; but if a piece or thicker solid-copper sheet is needed for any purpose.....a 22 mm. dia. central heating pipe offcut, slit longitudinally and heated to cherry red with a gas-torch and then quickly quenched, will enable the annealed pipe to be easily unrolled by hand and tapped dead flat on a smooth bench with a wooden/plastic/rubber mallet.

 

In its annealed state it may be cut, worked and soldered easily and before not too much time passes, it will age/work-harden to a durable stability.

 

Be careful with quenching. Oil is recommended as water boils and spits hot water all other the surrounding area and you if in the way..

 

I'm coming rather late to this, but my supply of thin copper sheet came from old UHF tuners (the rotary/push button sort - shows his age!), but this source has long dried up.

 

Wire might be an option or even etched fishplates.

[Coombe Barton]

Not perhaps applicable to the O.P`s requirements; but if a piece or thicker solid-copper sheet is needed for any purpose.....a 22 mm. dia. central heating pipe offcut, slit longitudinally and heated to cherry red with a gas-torch and then quickly quenched, will enable the annealed pipe to be easily unrolled by hand and tapped dead flat on a smooth bench with a wooden/plastic/rubber mallet.

 

In its annealed state it may be cut, worked and soldered easily and before not too much time passes, it will age/work-harden to a durable stability.

Think we also need to say that this is NOT a kitchen table activity. Proper workbench, proper tools, proper protection is the name of the game. When I first read this advice it was obvious to me what had to be done, but then looking at David's advice above made me realise that not everyone would know, hence this posting.

 

If you ain't sure, don't do it.

[bigwordsmith]

So far I've stuck with lots of ballast with polyfilla mixed in so it sets rock hard around the joint area.