Scratchbuilding with Plastikard.

[bob hughes60]

As a novice I intend to model the station and yard buildings for Sedbergh which were originally LNWR.

As far as I can research nothing RTR fits the bill so I am down to scratchbuilding.

For those who have experience what thickness of plastikard do you use for :-

 

Station Buildings,Goods yard buildings etc.

Internal bracing of above.

 

I am going plastic as detached double garage can be somewhat damp so I am not too optimistic about card building prospects.

Guidance appreciated.

Thanks

Bob Hughes60

[Kris]

I normally build a shell out of 1mm plain plaisticard, followed by layers of 0.5 to give the brickwork. The internal structure is also 1mm plain stuff. Laminating the stuff with plastic solvent can cause some banana issues at times so expect to use quite a bit of bracing.

[scanman]

Exactly what Kris said. If you start 'building boxes' (and most buildings are!), leave roofs, windows etc until last. If you can still smell styrene solvent (and sometimes it takes ages to dissipate) it is still active. If possible model some doors & windows open.

 

General tip (if new to the material) - it is not neccessary to completely cut through sheet plastkard - score/fold/snap works well. Keep any straightedge on the 'inside' of the cut line (ie the face that might be seen). Using a blade will raise a slight 'lip' on the opposite side. Use liquid stryrene cement rather than tube & apply with a thin cheap brush. Rather than 'flooding' a join, 'spot' the liqui8d along the join allowing capilliary action to do most of the work.

 

You WILL make mistakes - but don't be dispirited, we do get better!

 

Best of luck - look forward to seeing some examples.

 

Regs

 

Ian

 

 

[scanman]

PS -

 

If a smoker - DONT when using styrene adhesives. the 'smell' is in fact a very potent vapour with lots of nasty by-products. Mix that with cigarette 'smoke' (also full of lots of nasty by-products) makes a potentially dangerous cocktail.

 

Puts smug face on - I don't smoke!

 

Ian

 

 

[PaulCheffus]

I normally build a shell out of 1mm plain plaisticard, followed by layers of 0.5 to give the brickwork. The internal structure is also 1mm plain stuff. Laminating the stuff with plastic solvent can cause some banana issues at times so expect to use quite a bit of bracing.

 

Hi

 

I've found that using an odd number of laminates prevents this from happening.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Revolution Mike]

If you start 'building boxes' (and most buildings are!), leave roofs, windows etc until last.

 

It is much easier to cut windows and doors out on flat pieces of plasticard rather than trying to wrestle with a part built building!

 

Cheers, Mike

[scanman]

It is much easier to cut windows and doors out on flat pieces of plasticard rather than trying to wrestle with a part built building!

 

Cheers, Mike

 

 

Ahh - I meant to say' leave fitting the windows and doors into their apertures until last'... It also makes painting wall-finishes easier.

Regs

 

Ian

[Kris]

 

I've found that using an odd number of laminates prevents this from happening.

 

 

That's interesting, might try it next time I'm building a larger structure.

 

 

 

[David C]

I assume you are modelling in 4mm scale .... I tend to use 30 or 40 thou (about 1mm thick) for the basic structure and also use laminations (odd numbers as has been mentioned previously. If using Slaters or SE embossed brick or stone work (or Evergreen), that goes on the outside and a lamination of plain styrene of the same thickness goes on the inside - hence 3 laminations. Again using 30 or 40 thou, bracing can be added fitting in the floors and room dividers - use black styrene sheet if possible as this saves painting the interiors (unless of course you're planning on detailing the interiors). A false roof also helps rigidity as well as providing a base for the roof itself.

 

Large sheets of styrene (like walls and roofs) tend to be difficult to laminate - try double sided sellotape instead.

 

Can't think of anything else at the moment - except beware of Slaters 4mm embossed brickwork. The vertical mortar lines on most sheets aren't at 90 degrees to the horizintal ones. You either have to ignore the odd sized bricks at corners and window/door apertures or have a trapezoid shaped model!

 

Why not start with something small e.g. platelayers hut or similar? If you cock it up (and we all have), you haven't wasted either much time or styrene!

 

Best of luck

 

David C

[Arthur]

Bob, I don't know if you are aware of them, nor if they are suitable for Sedbergh, but there is a range of modular parts specifically for standard, wooden, LNWR station buildings in the Grand Junction range available from Parkside. Might be worth a look, they're on Parksides website.

Arthur

[Dagworth]

All my structures are built from 60thou for the base 'boxes', but then some of my buildings are pretty large, see my Ravensclyffe thread, http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/3288-ravensclyffe/page__p__23801__hl__ravensclyffe__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=23801

 

Andi

[2ManySpams]

Hi Bob,

 

There's some step by step photos of buildings I've made on the first few pages of this thread: My link

 

Like others I tend to use 1mm sheet for the main structure, odd numbers of laminates and lots of bracing. MekPac is good for general joints, whereas I save Plastic Weld for the main structure as it's a stronger solvent.

[burgundy]

Bob

I am sorry if this is a glimpse of the obvious - but nobody has said it explicitly so far.

The critical relationship to keep in mind is that 1mm thickness is near enough equal to 40 thou (which is how the thickness of sheet is usually expressed), and that in turn represents 3" in 4 mm scale. From that point onwards, 10 thou, 20 thou, etc is fairly simple arithmetic.

I hope that this helps

Eric

[Penlan]

Boxes have been mentioned a few times - whatever their format etc., always make sure nothing is 'sealed', allow the air/fumes to vent, and not just short term, long term to, otherwise warping will occur (can't remember if due to vacuum or pressure now - or even the solvent vapour working long term on the Plastikard).

Edit - Holes can be seen in the first floor ceiling to the Par Inn in 2ManySpams link above in post #12.

 

This especially happens if your trying to make up thick walls of PlastiKard based on the construction like the 1:1 scale wall studding in your home.

 

Plastikards a great medium, I've been using it for 40+ years making coaches, wagons, structures and buildings, but like horses for courses, it's not always the right thing for everything in life.

 

Enjoy modelling....

[Fay Singpoint]

One method we have used to avoid the problems of banana shaped buildings (especially large buildings) using plasticard is to make part of the structure in plywood and then add the cladding.

 

F

[Armchair Modeller]

We all assume that Mekpak or similar is necessary for sticking plasticard, but is it? Does anyone use more general adhesives? I am thinking of the adhesives that don't dissolve the plastic. Looking through the array of adhesives on display at an average DIY store, there are a number that claim to stick most plastics - and allow adjustment before they set.

 

Richard

[2ManySpams]

We all assume that Mekpak or similar is necessary for sticking plasticard, but is it? Does anyone use more general adhesives? I am thinking of the adhesives that don't dissolve the plastic. Looking through the array of adhesives on display at an average DIY store, there are a number that claim to stick most plastics - and allow adjustment before they set.

 

Richard

 

Well it's horses for courses.

 

Solvents like Mek do a great job of 'welding' the plastic together. You get a good initial bond very quickly that strenghens over a day or so. They are a water-like liquid that can be applied in small quantities and run down seems easily. The solvent has no real thickness, so 2no 1mm parts become 2mm thick.

 

Evostick impact adhesive is ok for bonding plastic to say a ply frame if used sparingly. It can have a nasty habit of turning thinner sheet to mush if and eroding the detail on embossed sheets. This doesn't always happen straight away! It's stringy and can leave a trail. It's a thick substance so 2no 1mm will end up slightly more than 2mm thick. Not great for adding small plastic detail but ok for say adding white metal chimney pots. If used in small amounts it can be used to fix items like roofs to vans and buildings that you need to get off for access later.

 

UHU etc all purpose adhesives. Much the same as Evostick but seem to lack real strength in my experience. Third party repairs to a bridge i built had to be redone using solvent for instance.

 

Superglues differ greatly in ability, drying time and adhesive capabilities. I now use the Zap make - green and pink bottles. I wouldn't use them for the main laminations or structure but very useful for adding metal parts.

 

Epoxy. Good for filling and strenghening on the unseen side.

 

Copydex, no more nails and PVA are no real use.

 

 

Summary: solvents are best for most use.

[David Bigcheeseplant]

For laminating the three layers of walls on my engine shed I used double sided tape clean and very strong.

 

David

[2ManySpams]

For laminating the three layers of walls on my engine shed I used double sided tape clean and very strong.

 

David

 

yep, forgot to mention that option - and a good one it is too. I gave the plastic a quick wipe with IPA first to remove any grease. not sure if really needed but it doesn't take long.

[bob hughes60]

Could I thank members for sharing their expertise and very informative links.

This, hopefully, does not mean the end of the thread, but this forum is very good

at sharing and giving and this is appreciated.

I certainly need to join a local club I think.

Bob Hughes