Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 I have to produce a sawtooth form in plastic card 40thou/1mm thick The form is ^^^^^^^^ with a depth of 1mm and angles of exactly 45o The overall depth is 2mm The total overall length required is 9 metres. YES 9 metres Has anyone any practical ideas how this can be done, other than by a tedious 9000 individual cuts ? The object is to represent 2 rows of bricks laid at 45o , with the rows offset by a half a brick This photo shows what I am trying to achieve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hello Ron. One suggestion I would have which I picked up from the 2mm guys a while ago would be to get a bolt/screw which has the same profile you are looking for, then cut the bolt in half and then use half to bolt to form a scraper to drag across the plastic and form the profile. This can then be cut into strips to represent the brick pattern. Missy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hello Ron. One suggestion I would have which I picked up from the 2mm guys a while ago would be to get a bolt/screw which has the same profile you are looking for, then cut the bolt in half and then use half to bolt to form a scraper to drag across the plastic and form the profile. This can then be cut into strips to represent the brick pattern. Missy Hi, Missy Thanks for that suggestion. I don't think there any screw threads with a matching profile, but your idea of using a scraper has me thinking I could produce a suitable profile in steel I will try your basic idea, and let you know the result Thanks again Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hi Ron. You may also be able to use one of THESE as a scraper? It might work? Missy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave777 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Not sure what scale you're modelling in - at 4mm or 2mm I suspect the 45' degree angle might not be that noticeable really. At 7mm it may become more important. What about something like tank tracks? Don't they have pyramid shapes bits on the sides that fit into the wheels? A strip of that cut in half lengthways and then placed with the two strips set slightly out of line/sync might get the right effect. Not the best pic, but I was thinking of something like this: http://www.papermodelstore.com/images/4/scan0001vvvvv.jpg Probably too far apart, but there may be better examples. Or it might be a naff idea to be honest Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohmisterporter Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 This may be thinking outside the box but how about printing out the picture you have shown above and sticking that onto a plastic backing? Adjust the picture to give the sizes you want of course.I accept that you don't have an actual 3-D profile but from normal viewing distances the effect could be acceptable. Geoff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 30, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 30, 2011 Another idea would be to create a wheel ( about an inch in diameter) with the reverse pattern around the edge, and then run the wheel along a thin bead of clay/ grout / DAS. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hi Ron. You may also be able to use one of THESE as a scraper? It might work? Missy Hi, Missy Thanks for that suggestion I like the saw blades for use on another model project. But I think the steel or brass scraper could be the solution, as it is completely under my control to make and use Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Not sure what scale you're modelling in - at 4mm or 2mm I suspect the 45' degree angle might not be that noticeable really. At 7mm it may become more important. What about something like tank tracks? Don't they have pyramid shapes bits on the sides that fit into the wheels? A strip of that cut in half lengthways and then placed with the two strips set slightly out of line/sync might get the right effect. Not the best pic, but I was thinking of something like this: http://www.papermode...an0001vvvvv.jpg Probably too far apart, but there may be better examples. Or it might be a naff idea to be honest Hi, Thanks for your suggestion. They would probably wouldn't work for me in this instance, but thanks again Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 This may be thinking outside the box but how about printing out the picture you have shown above and sticking that onto a plastic backing? Adjust the picture to give the sizes you want of course.I accept that you don't have an actual 3-D profile but from normal viewing distances the effect could be acceptable. Geoff. Hi, Geoff I tried your suggestion as a first trial build, but it didn't quite fit with all the other detailing on the walls, thats why I came back to a trial with cutting the detail into plastic card. This gave the level of detail matching the rest on the walls Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Another idea would be to create a wheel ( about an inch in diameter) with the reverse pattern around the edge, and then run the wheel along a thin bead of clay/ grout / DAS. Stu Hi, Stu Thanks, definitely a different approach. I will trial it just to gain a bit of experience with that particular modelling medium. I will advise you of the outcome Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PhilH Posted January 30, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 30, 2011 Could you do something with pinking shears? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Could you do something with pinking shears? Hi, PhilH Thanks for your suggestion I have a pair of pinking shears, but the serrations are little larger than I need But your suggestion has me thinking along a similar tack. Using a steel profile which could be pressed on the face of the plastic card in a vice i.e using it as press tool Will let you know how I get on Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuartp Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Never used them but York Modelmaking have been mentioned on here before and will do bespoke sections in plastic or thin MDF. No idea of cost but 9 meters is an awful lot to hand cut ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Never used them but York Modelmaking have been mentioned on here before and will do bespoke sections in plastic or thin MDF. No idea of cost but 9 meters is an awful lot to hand cut ! Yeah i'd work out how high the bricks are and get the two layers lasercut otherwise you'll be there forever! Could do 3 layers of material built up for the vertical triangular bits as well. Manchester Central does have some nice detail on it. I didn't realise until a conversation last week there is actually canal wharfage under the Great Northern warehouse site too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hi Ron When I needed corrugated sections for my signal box I started by scouring diy shops for things like plastic trunking with the right section. I didn't find anything as it was all too small for what I needed but it might have been ok for brick. Failing that make a couple of masters by gluing triangle section to a plasticard backing then press the right section from thick tin foil. You could do as long as you like then for next to nothing and it would be pretty much instant too! Hth Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Yeah i'd work out how high the bricks are and get the two layers lasercut otherwise you'll be there forever! Could do 3 layers of material built up for the vertical triangular bits as well. Manchester Central does have some nice detail on it. I didn't realise until a conversation last week there is actually canal wharfage under the Great Northern warehouse site too. Hi, Craig Thanks for suggestion I think that the laser cutting route could well be the final solution Yes. The original scope for the warehouse included access to/from the underground canal. This canal also ran beneath Central Station, but was abandoned quite early on in the build process Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hi Ron When I needed corrugated sections for my signal box I started by scouring diy shops for things like plastic trunking with the right section. I didn't find anything as it was all too small for what I needed but it might have been ok for brick. Failing that make a couple of masters by gluing triangle section to a plasticard backing then press the right section from thick tin foil. You could do as long as you like then for next to nothing and it would be pretty much instant too! Hth Jim Hi, Jim Thanks for all your input across my topics, etc. Your info. has set me searching for plastic products with serrated surfaces. I will try to leave no stone unturned, there is an economical solution (cost and time) out there somewhere Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hi, All I think I have found the solution, and it was where I least expected it, right under my nose EG2080 Evergreen V-Groove 080" Spacing (2.0mm) - Sheet size 305 x 152 So at 1mm strips 135-140mm long, each sheet would give at least 300 pieces, and I only need a minimum of 60, leaving plenty for errors and waste The cost £5.40 + P&P I must thank all of you for your input and suggestions, some of which will certainly be followed up for future use Thanks again Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 30, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 30, 2011 That may be a simple and cheap solution, but after all the ideas on here it almost seems a bit like cheating Hope it works. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 That may be a simple and cheap solution, but after all the ideas on here it almost seems a bit like cheating Hope it works. Stu Hi, Stu Thanks for your observation. I have always found that after a great deal of tailchasing an idea, a thinktank discussion within a group of like minded people usually sparks a satisfactory solution from at least one of the group If it doesn't work it means I chose the wrong idea this time, and there are others still to test Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellicoe Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Bring a length of hacksaw blade up to red heat then plunge it in water; this will soften the metal. File the profile of the brickwork into the back edge of the blade then heat it again, allowing it to cool slowly. Cut a thin groove in a length of wood and insert the serrated edge of the blade into it then scape away at lengths of plastic stock. The profiled stock can then be cut off at the appropriate angle; you might consider making a jig for this part of the job. Alternatively, you could build up a length from diminishing widths of 1mm plastic card. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 ...Alternatively, you could build up a length from diminishing widths of 1mm plastic card. I don't understand the 'diminishing width bit. However, if you wanted to construct it, you could start with a strip of 1mm plastic, about 1.5mm wide (i.e. brick cross-section, 0.83x1.3 if not accounting for the mortar) and lay them side by side at a 45 degree angle, something like this /////////. A quick wipe of MEK over the top should give you something that could be sanwiched between the layers above and below with only the sawtooth part sticking out. Tedious compared with some of the shaping tool methods, though If you don't fancy doing the whole length this way, it would be a way of making a master like Jim suggested earlier. Nick ps. I think the Evergreen V groove stuff will have too wide a flat section between the Vs. I assumed that it was meant to represent v-grooved joints in boarding. I believe also that it is only 20thou thick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Bring a length of hacksaw blade up to red heat then plunge it in water; this will soften the metal. File the profile of the brickwork into the back edge of the blade then heat it again, allowing it to cool slowly. Cut a thin groove in a length of wood and insert the serrated edge of the blade into it then scape away at lengths of plastic stock. The profiled stock can then be cut off at the appropriate angle; you might consider making a jig for this part of the job. Alternatively, you could build up a length from diminishing widths of 1mm plastic card. Hi, Jellicoe Thanks, this looks a good and practical way of producing v grooved sheets. I will add it to my list of options Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Heggs Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 I don't understand the 'diminishing width bit. However, if you wanted to construct it, you could start with a strip of 1mm plastic, about 1.5mm wide (i.e. brick cross-section, 0.83x1.3 if not accounting for the mortar) and lay them side by side at a 45 degree angle, something like this /////////. A quick wipe of MEK over the top should give you something that could be sanwiched between the layers above and below with only the sawtooth part sticking out. Tedious compared with some of the shaping tool methods, though If you don't fancy doing the whole length this way, it would be a way of making a master like Jim suggested earlier. Nick ps. I think the Evergreen V groove stuff will have too wide a flat section between the Vs. I assumed that it was meant to represent v-grooved joints in boarding. I believe also that it is only 20thou thick. Hi, Nick Thanks for your input Tedious, yes, but it is still another practical solution Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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