Cambrian Brake Van

[mike morley]

First class. Congrats.

[Penlan]

I like the light grey, I think it's has the right feel.

[jamieb]

Thanks guys,it was you Sandy that put me onto the Humbrol 64 light grey, I would probably use GWR wagon grey to replace the black on the framing in future as I think pure black is a bit severe.Have either of you you noticed the deliberate omission?

 

Jamie

[mike morley]

Not numbered?

[billbedford]

Are there photos of these vans with black ironwork in service?

There are lots of photos of photos of wagons from many different companies showing black ironwork. Closer inspection of them show that they are invariably builder's photos and the black ironwork is a temporary artefact akin to the photographic grey livery given to locos.

[jamieb]

You're right Mike , not numbered as yet as I'm going to experiment with some decal sheet and a plain white '11' is the easiest possible thing to start with! Hope to get some at Railex.Need to do the makers plate too , recessed in the solebar channels.

 

In answer to your question Bill, I haven't seen ANY photo's of these vans in Cambrian livery, so it is conjecture.However Cambrian wagons DID run with black ironwork, and I've seen photos to prove it, although this would probably have faded very quickly to a darkish grey.I may have used modellers license here as the prototype was built in 1912, the same year that the livery was simplified.I did resist red ends which were present on brake vans until 1908!

 

If somebody wants to produce a photo to prove me wrong, I shall be more than happy (but I won't repaint it!)

 

Jamie

[jamieb]

Looking at the time of your post Mike, I hope you weren't up all night thinking about it!

[mike morley]

I'm a postman! Half past five was a bit of a lie-in!

[fottist]

Hi - thanks for all of the detail of how to get over the problems with this kit. I have just bought one on eBay which seems to be complete, but has no instructions. Looking at them, jamieb, they don't look very useful but the picture showing "what goes where" could be a help as I can't quite see where some of the riveted strips go. Is there any chance someone could do a scan of the picture and post it on this string, please. I'll let you all know how I get on - thanks again.

Mike C

[jamieb]

Hi Mike

 

Bit surprised to see this turn up in the new content listing!There's a photo showing the instructions on page 1 of the thread. and a side view which shows the position of the rivet strips.There's also 2 for each end.The positioning of them is not exact tbh as the model gives no guidelines,I just put them where they looked right.I worked from a photo (the only one I know of pre BR days) in CC Greens Cambrian Railways Album 2.Are you doing it in Cambrian,GWR or BR days?Good luck with the build and PM me if you want to know anything that's not covered in the thread

 

Jamie

[5050]

A long time since this thread had a post but I'm in the process of building one of these as my first excursion into RSU soldering.  I too have had the kit for many years, it is an original Jidenco with the plastic 'roof' and some 'excess' etched bits on the fret.  I'm using 1.5 x 1.5mm brass angle for the corner posts on the verandahs rather than the butt joint.  I will also be ignoring the W-Iron etches and using separate W-Iron units (probably S4 Society ones) with a rocking one at one end.  Wizard or similar clasp brakes will be fitted as well.  I'm not intending this to be a full accurate Cambrian or GWR version when finished.  It will in all probability be finished in my 'corporate blue' industrial livery to add to my collection of oddball brake vans!  I've drilled the handrail holes and tinned edges etc. for strapping while the body is still in the flat.  I may also attach some of the strapping that does not interfere with folding likewise.  I folded up the body first and then flattened it again  which should assist in the final folds.  The solebar folding will be a challenge.  I like the idea of using some Evergreen channel instead!  I'm hoping that using an RSU rather than an iron will make life a bit easier when attaching parts without (hopefully!) unsoldering already fitted ones.  Strapping parts have been pre-tinned on the fret, some of them are very delicate and I think I will use a minimum power setting on the RSU to avoid vapourising them!

 

There are a couple of very good photos of the Towyn van (incorrectly identified as a South Wales one) in Jim Russell's first GWR wagon book , the slim landscape one with a Grey cover.  I'm using these as my reference.

 

Regarding Cambrian Grey, when I was doing some Cambrian modelling BITD (probably late 70's) I found some Humbrol military paint, a German grey but I can't remember the number or colour name at the moment.  I'm sure I still have the tin somewhere but with all the changes over the years at Humbrol I doubt it is still available.  The main point though is that I showed this to Mike Morton Lloyd at the time and he reckoned it was pretty good and he might even have used it himself subsequently.  Here is a photo of the wagons I scratch built around that time showing the shade of grey - one of a lot more than 50!  Lettering is hand done as no transfers were then available.  The Steetley lime wagon was built from Mike's drawing in one of the mags (Constructor perhaps?) and this was painted in GWR grey.  The Brake should really have the red ends - but my round tuit has disappeared!

 

 

Please don't look to hard at the background.  The wagons were positioned on my HO American layout and the P4 wheels don't fit the Peco Code 100 track!

Edited February 17, 2018 by 5050

[5050]

Sorry to report that I have completely given up on this kit.  So much so in fact that it is now in a flattened state in the bin!  Badly designed, badly etched and with many variances from the prototype particularly the rivetted 'strapping' etc. around the balconies and doors.  I also didn't have much luck with the parts soldered on with my RSU either, many of them started to come loose as I was proceeding even though they appeared fixed at first - and were nowhere near items I was soldering at the time.

[wagonman]

Sorry you've given up, but Jidenco kits were well known for trying one's intestinal fortitude!

[Brian finn]

On 22/02/2012 at 17:21, jamieb said:

Hi Mike

 

Bit surprised to see this turn up in the new content listing!There's a photo showing the instructions on page 1 of the thread. and a side view which shows the position of the rivet strips.There's also 2 for each end.The positioning of them is not exact tbh as the model gives no guidelines,I just put them where they looked right.I worked from a photo (the only one I know of pre BR days) in CC Greens Cambrian Railways Album 2.Are you doing it in Cambrian,GWR or BR days?Good luck with the build and PM me if you want to know anything that's not covered in the thread

 

Jamie

This is next level modelling I could only dream of such skill.

[Ashley Bridge]

I’ve just stumbled upon this thread and to read of the trials and tribulations someone else has encountered encouraged me to have another try at a Falcon ballast plough which I stalled on about a year ago. I too managed to get the W iron etches unevenly spaced, then the sole bars looked dreadful. I’ve managed to dismantle it and am starting again with the benefit of hindsight and having lost the instructions I’ll have one less hindrance. I’ve cut away the brake shoe jokes, shortened the massive w irons and needed to pack the solebars out 0.75 mm to look right. At present I’m working on a way to strengthen the drawbar etch as you can almost see through it. 
 

Stay safe, people.    Rich