Lime Street Station

[Hroth]

 

More details from Geoff............

 

"Hi Steve - for those guys asking how to connect a camera to a TV set you could point them to the link for our new monitors (£26)

The cameras and monitor just connect together with no other cables required - just a 12VDC power supply to make them work...

Also the monitor has 2 camera inputs and a "wire" to switch between the cameras as a simple "twin" system for a model railway

TTFN

G"

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-Inch-TFT-LCD-Digital-Color-Screen-Monitor-for-Car-Rear-View-Reversing-Camera-/391362294219?hash=item5b1f02b1cb

 

Steve.

 

Just got one of those monitors as a head for the Raspberry Pi I use as a JMRI system (can't abide not knowing what the computer is up to!) Better than lugging a proper display about and as it can be incorporated into the control system, more compact too!  After a struggle with the composite output of the Pi, it works very nicely in console and xwindow mode, the screen text is even readable - just....

 

They've sold out of your link now, but there are others of a similar nature that are UK sourced and cheaper, mainly because they don't have audio in, which may or may not be a requirement!

 

For example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-TFT-LCD-Screen-Mirror-Monitor-Backup-Camera-Car-Reverse-Parking-Rear-View-/401078234197?hash=item5d62202c55:g:CYQAAOSwzgRWz-wR

 

A search for 7 monitor, then refining by UK, Buy Now and lowest price+p&p will throw up a good few examples.

 

As for cameras, I saw mono ones like the silver platform ones for £3.95

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222086483023?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

and colour bullet ones for 6.99

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222083450976?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Hope that helps!

 

Just thought, they all need a 12v power supply. Although there are plenty about on ebay, even Argos can supply a nice little 12v 4A power brick, intended for a fridge but it should be able to power a monitor and 2 camera setup very nicely!

 

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/1398948.htm

Edited April 22, 2016 by Hroth

[Revolution Mike B]

Just a few photos of the hotel in its last full build prior to painting. The roof is finished. Tiled and painted.

 

IMG_1888.jpg

 

IMG_1901.jpg

 

IMG_1909.jpg

 

 

Now on to the paint shop!!

 

IMG_1917.jpg

 

Wow!!

[ianLMS]

Is that a modified Metcalf kit by any chance?   absolutely stunning work!!!! the detail is incredible.

[Steve Hewitt]

And finally.........

 

The following is the latest update from John to the Lime Street Crew as he brings the major enhancements for 2016 to a conclusion.

 

"Hi Chaps,

 

Well, this will probably be the last update of this series. I finally have the chart all in red !!

 

 

As you know there were only some software issues left to complete and after two recent visits from Geoff, the last one today, all is now done.

 

Today Geoff installed the software for the CIL system, and after a couple of minor alterations it is now up and running. Any plug that is not now properly connected to it's appropriate socket will bring in an alarm, (any of the 71 plugs !).

 

I find it very comforting to know all these connections are now being monitored. If a plug did become loose or disconnected it could cause all manner of fault conditions that could send you down a dead end route trying to find the fault, but now this one LED lighting up would show you the right path to take! This could save loads of time fault finding under exhibition conditions.

 

The majority of the plugs are 25-way D series so that is potentially 1775 electrical connections being made and checked - Steve

 

The other big breakthrough today was the Down Line drop-off.

This feature now means that once trains reset the gantry signal on approach to the station, the section up to the gantry is released for the sector plate man to send a following train down to the gantry. This should help to speed up operations just that little bit more.

 

I know Steve can't wait to get running again to try out all the new features, I can't wait to see just how well they all work !!

 

We also tried to commission Cab Cam today but alas we had problems ! 

After talking to a chap in the USA this afternoon we tried a few ideas out, and just as we got it working, two wires touched and blew up the video transmitter.

So now it's do I buy a new one ??

 

Lastly Geoff and I experimented with the first pelmet monitor and have got it working, be it temporarily taped to the pelmet:

 

 

 Geoff has connected the first 6 cameras to the first pelmet switch just so we can test the system.

It's over to you lads now for comment as and when you see it before this project is taken any further.

 

I have Les and Steve coming on Friday with the hotel to fit in it's recess so I can fit the pavements neatly up to the building with no gaps showing, then I will complete all the pavements ready for Rob.

Incidentally Rob paid a visit last Wednesday and made a start on detailing the cutting ready for the people to be fitted by Peter next month. (What a mammoth job !)

 

That's all for now folks,

 

Onwards & Upwards,

 

John."

 

p.s.  Here's the pile of cables which the upgrades have made redundant:

 

I think John will soon be putting the "Operating Sessions" schedule together, when the team will get their hands on the layout and try out all these enhancements.

Pictures and Videos should follow.

 

​Don't forget, our next exhibition outing is the Peterborough show in October.

 

Steve.

[Les Green]

The North wall is now complete and ready for Rob to apply the weathering.

 

[Les Green]

The etched plates shown in the photo need painting. Black lettering and border with a white background. Has anyone any experience of an easy way of doing this to get a neat finish? 

 

[billbedford]

Paint the whole plate the colour of the lettering and leave until the paint hardens. Then paint the plate again the background colour but before the paint has dried wipe the paint from the lettering and border. And you should have some perfectly executed sign writing.  

[Les Green]

Paint the whole plate the colour of the lettering and leave until the paint hardens. Then paint the plate again the background colour but before the paint has dried wipe the paint from the lettering and border. And you should have some perfectly executed sign writing.  

 

How do you do the wiping bit? Tried that but it still wipes away the background where there are large areas of background colour.

[billbedford]

Use something stiff, like a strip of thin plasticard or an eraser.

Edited May 7, 2016 by billbedford

[Southernboy]

I'd paint the inset area first, using two or three washes, drawn in by osmosis.

 

Then I would use a dry-brush technique, drawn across the surface of letters and frame.  The finish would be reasonably crisp, but not 100% perfect, which in my mind suits old signage.

 

Finally perhaps, a little brush with weathering powders.

Edited May 7, 2016 by Southernboy

[Les Green]

Use something stiff, like a strip of thin plasticard or an eraser.

 

Dry eraser or are thinners involved?

How dry should the paint be before scraping off the surplus?

Edited May 7, 2016 by Les Green

[Les Green]

Use something stiff, like a strip of thin plasticard or an eraser.

 

Still struggling. When I wipe the paint all the paint does not come off the white lettering and leaves a smudgy finish. A light wipe with a little thinners on a cloth makes matters worse! Now I have stripped all the paint off ready to start again!

[billbedford]

If you are using enamels you should let the first coat harden for 2-3 days to make sure that the second coat doesn't soften the first. Alternatively you can use acrylics for the second coat as these would affect the enamel first coat and can be wiped off with kitchen paper dampened with water.

[Les Green]

If you are using enamels you should let the first coat harden for 2-3 days to make sure that the second coat doesn't soften the first. Alternatively you can use acrylics for the second coat as these would affect the enamel first coat and can be wiped off with kitchen paper dampened with water.

 

Thanks Bill. I will try the acrylic method next time. I did leave the white paint to dry for a week. I have now repainted the white and will paint the black in a couple of weeks. I will keep you posted!

Les

[devondynosoar118]

The method I use is to spray the whole sign/lettering in the desired lettering colour, using a tinted primer if something other than white/black is required (Army Painter cans are good for this if you are not using a spray gun/airbrush.)

When it's thoroughly dry I then paint the background colour in acrylic. I let that dry then use a bit of 800 grit wet paper glued to a lolly pop stick to sand the lettering, with a little water on the sanding stick. This makes an incredibly sharp edge on the letters as it takes off the acrylic, revealing the base colour. It can also be used to simulate fading etc.

You have to be careful not to sand through the base colour, hence needing a stick on the sand paper.

The only difficulty can be black letters on a white background. It's harder to get a clean looking white over the black. I wondered about using a micro ink roller for black letters, with a thick paint instead of block printing ink.

Edited May 8, 2016 by devondynosoar118

[Les Green]

The method I use is to spray the whole sign/lettering in the desired lettering colour, using a tinted primer if something other than white/black is required (Army Painter cans are good for this if you are not using a spray gun/airbrush.)

When it's thoroughly dry I then paint the background colour in acrylic. I let that dry then use a bit of 800 grit wet paper glued to a lolly pop stick to sand the lettering, with a little water on the sanding stick. This makes an incredibly sharp edge on the letters as it takes off the acrylic, revealing the base colour. It can also be used to simulate fading etc.

You have to be careful not to sand through the base colour, hence needing a stick on the sand paper.

The only difficulty can be black letters on a white background. It's harder to get a clean looking white over the black. I wondered about using a micro ink roller for black letters, with a thick paint instead of block printing ink.

 

Thanks for that. Looks like I am going to go with the acrylic. Any particular brand that is better than others. I am doing black lettering on a white background!!!!

[Michael Edge]

Still struggling. When I wipe the paint all the paint does not come off the white lettering and leaves a smudgy finish. A light wipe with a little thinners on a cloth makes matters worse! Now I have stripped all the paint off ready to start again!

Try using your thumb to wipe the paint off

[Les Green]

Try using your thumb to wipe the paint off

 

The etched plate is probably too big for a thumb wipe. It needs to be something flat. May try it though!

[amdaley]

The etched plate is probably too big for a thumb wipe. It needs to be something flat. May try it though!

 

Hi Les.

Try a wooden coffee stirrer with the end squared off.

[devondynosoar118]

Vallejo make good acrylics, if you are doing black letters on white, I would undercoat in white primer, then use a print roller to apply an enamel black. You could possibly use Lino print ink.

Example of a miniature print roller- one slightly wider than your sign would get it in one go.

http://www.lawrence.co.uk/shop/Narrow_Rollers.html#.Vy-TydR4WrUj

 

The roller could possibly have other uses, I haven't experimented with them much in model painting!

Edited May 8, 2016 by devondynosoar118

[Brocp]

I must say, I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of the new stock that was mentioned a while ago

[ozzyo]

The etched plates shown in the photo need painting. Black lettering and border with a white background. Has anyone any experience of an easy way of doing this to get a neat finish? 

 

IMG_2725.jpg

Hello Les,

 

I'm with spray painting the background white (use white primer) and then doing the letters black. For doing the black you could try the flat ink pads that are used for card making these come in sizes from about an 1" square. I' think that these are water based so should stick to the primer,but if it goes boobs up you should be able to wash the ink off and start again.

 

Just had a word with the wife about these and you can get them from "The Range". The down side is that you would have to fix them with some sort of varnish (and that could be fun)!

 

The other way paint as above then use a hard ink roller as you would for type setting, with this you could use a paint like acrylic so that if it didn't work you could wash it off.

 

ATB

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. the working part of the layout is coming along a lot. 

[Steve Hewitt]

The crowds are coming..........

 

....well, shortly.

 

Pete Goss and his wife Julie visited John yesterday to deliver and install the first couple of sets of "people" on the layout:

 

 

First were the working party in the Cutting:

 

 

 

Followed by students and staff in the University area:

 

 

 

 

 

This is the start of a major project to populate the layout.....

 

I believe Lime Street itself will be next.

 

Steve.

[ardbealach]

Looks good - but seems as if there are lots of men, though.  Are all the women going to be standing on the street corners of Lime Street?

[runs as required]

Looks good - but seems as if there are lots of men, though.  Are all the women going to be standing on the street corners of Lime Street?

The men all look to be lurking around the back of the students union on Brownlow Hill.

 

There were very few women students when I went to L'pool U in the mid 1950s.

So the men either went down to look for them around Lime St., got off with one another as in the pics above, or (in my case) imported one from home - who fortunately still manages me sixty odd years later.   

dh