Jump to content
 

My 7mm Workbench


Recommended Posts

many years ago l built a white metal kit of a southern K class 2-6-0 tender loco, it cost a lot of money even in those days, but the wheels and l think the motor were in the kit, l remember the chassis was just two lumps of brass, it was awful, but l built it eventually with the poor instructions, it ran like a bag of nails, but it was my pride and joy, the club l was with at time had a exhibition so l thought l would give K class its debut, what a big mistake remarks like 'ls that the right tender' or 'They did'nt have cab doors opening outwards' and 'l thought the driving wheels were bigger' did my head in, l know constructive criticism is very good and we all need it to improve our models, but the rivet counters really p.ss me off, so if l build anything without a good reliable drawing, then l say it is a southern type of whatever.. regards

 

Can't say I blame you then. I guess it says more about me than it does about you when I see your models, which are very good, and think "why doesn't he just build models of prototypes using drawings?".

 

Please keep posting the builds because the results are great.

 

Regards,

David.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Hayfield, thanks for the information on scale drawings, really think l could build an un-rebuilt bullied pacific (34055 Fighter Pilot) in plasticard with a brass chassis, just need a good drawing?

 

Regarding the rivets, l use the thinnest plasticard, thin a a sheet of paper, then l cut to shape the get a steel rule, to guide, then punch the rivets in line with a old small screwdriver shaped to a point..

 

Here are my poor examples and as you can see they are so old the solvent has gone yellow

 

post-1131-0-93852500-1302867675_thumb.jpg

 

post-1131-0-52845700-1302867696_thumb.jpg

 

The coach is a SECR all 3rd, I have the plans for 1st, composite,brake 3rd and full brake but lost the all 3rd. I guess I should finish it as it just need door knobs and grab handles. My club are building a 7mm layout but its the wrong region and era

 

I have tried my London Road Models Riviter on a piece of scrap, thanks for the ruler tip

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi George, The van looks good and I glad to see a brass chassis on the loco, it will be more substantial long term and the low down weight will help stability. Good luck with the Bullied ! Andy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

had a set of slaters wheels that were spare, and an old biscuit tin, so l put the two together with a few brass strips, and some white metal brake shoes from another project, and built a shorter version of a 20ton twin bolster wagon, just need to form some sides and prime, the only problem was removing the print on the tin, easy enough with a fibre pen, l have used tin before as you can cut and solder it, l found it is easier to form than brass, and a lot cheaper

post-7716-0-99057500-1303022566_thumb.jpg

post-7716-0-34485000-1303022695_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hi George,

 

I'm enjoying your thread, and the plasticard locos look superb. My first scratchbuilt loco was mostly plasticard, and twenty-five years later its still going strong. I cant remember how I did the rivits, but it was probably no more sophisticated than a sharp point from the rear. They are still clearly visible as rivits, even though the plasticard has tried to flatten out over time.

 

As an alternative to plasticard for chassis construction, have you considered copperclad circuitboard? I use t to make loco footplates, but I've yet to try it for frames. its easy to cut/file/drill etc using handtools, its insulating AND you can solder it, etc.

 

All the best,

Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Rob, Must say severn looks fantastic quite a few awkward bits to solder there l guess, anyway l had a bit of trouble with the tin being to thin, so l pondered a while and came up with the idea of laminating two pieces of tin together, and that has solved the problem............

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dave (DLT) l have tried copperclad board before, but didnt do too well, l think brass is the only medium for a chassis, everything else seems to distort in time, and if you really want reliable running then it brass, l will still build in Plastic/Tin in the future, the tin l find is easier to form than brass as its softer, thats my opinion, l know others will disagree,

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Dave (DAJT) l have taken your advice and l am going to build from a proper drawing, first will be a BR Standard 20ton Vacuum fitted brake van, the build will be mainly tin, and l will use all my of-cuts of brass for support, here are the first pictures.......Regards

post-7716-0-40007200-1303141642_thumb.jpg

post-7716-0-88627100-1303141709_thumb.jpg

post-7716-0-27102900-1303141795_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, you work very quickly. In the time it has taken me to drill about 6 holes in a chassis you've got three models :mellow:

 

Both the wagon and the brake van are looking great. You've been doing this a while, I take it?

 

Regards,

David.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, More pictures a requested, the brake van is coming on leaps and bounds,... Dave its not that l am quick, its just that l have had two weeks off, and as the governor is at work l have all day to do my modelling, back to work soon so progress will slow down.......

post-7716-0-64591800-1303291760_thumb.jpg

post-7716-0-48874800-1303291854_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...