Mark 37 Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Hello all, I have a Lima class 156 which has had it's motos stripped down and cleaned. I have replaced the brushes and springs. I would really like to convert this to DCC and add some lights. With only returning to the hobby in the last year or so, I am at a loss as to what other things I can do to improve this model for running on DCC. And probably more to the point, where I would find them. Would there be a better decoder over others for the old Lima motor. I know of the modeltorque motors, would this be worth the investment? I plan on adding running lights, this does not faze me if I hard wire the decoder, I probably have all the led's I need to do this and coach lighting from my RC model boats. I actually have a spare 8 pin socket that I can add if you would think it to be a better idea? Anyway, if you can give me some pointers in what is worth doing and what would be a waste of cash. I would be very greatful. Just an after thought, would it be worth getting a modern Hornby DCC ready chassis and would this fit or would their be a lot of modifying needed? Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 This will work wonders - http://chrisgibbon.com/webftp/Pages/loriderpage.htm Other wise maybe a Black Beetle may be a worthwhile investment Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzie Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 If you are going to all the effort of getting a Hornby chassis, you might as well sell the Lima and get a Hornby. That said I put a Lenz gold in mine and it does not run too badly with the original Lima motor, I think I am lucky and have good motors in all my Lima stock. For lighting I used an Express Models lighting kit which comes with some stiff 3-core wire and a plug and socket to connect the lighting to the trailer. I like the Lenz Gold because it has a 9-pin jst harness so there is no need to hard wire the decoder or fit another socket, and if you like separate control of the trailer lights it has four functions. There are some other decoders available with the 9-pin jst connector too if the gold is a little too expensive. With hindsight I would probably have used a 4-pole Roco conductive coupling to connect the lighting wires between the cars rather than use the Express Models connector. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 James, Thank you for the link. When the wee man goes to bed I'll take a proper look when I can actually study it properly. Suzie, Thanks for the invaluable information. The reason for trying to make this particular loco work and work well on DCC is that it is in Strathclyde Transport red (but it's really orange) and was given as a christmas present as I did not know at the time if I would be capable of building a class 303 kit from DC kits. As they said it would not be an ideal starter kit. Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigAndy Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Hi Mark, If I could just add my own humble bit of advice as well. If you're planning on doing a full job on your 156, may I suggest you aslo have a go at replacing the large lump of plastic that passes for chassis detail. Hurst models do a cracking detailing kit, which admittedly takes a bit of whittling, but makes a huge impact on the overall look of the model. http://www.hurstmodels.co.uk/ If you just follow the directions in the site and click on Unit detailing parts and kits, you will find a photo there of a converted 156. Usual disclaimers apply - I have no financial link with Hurst............ HTH cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Andy, That does look good and information is taken on board (no pun intended). Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Would the new low-profile motorised chassis from Replica be of use in this? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Would the new low-profile motorised chassis from Replica be of use in this? Is this the one priced at £65 on their web site? If it is I would probably just buy a 156 DCC ready from Hornby (same price) and have a tinker around with it. Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted March 24, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2011 A while ago I did a conversion to one of my old Lima 156s. I purchased and built a High Level Kits Lo-Rider, and fitted the Express Models lighting kit. I used two decoders, a Lenz Gold in the motorised car, and a Hornby R8249 in the unpowered car. The Lenz has programmable outputs, so they were changed to allow both decoders to have the same address and to allow the lighting to be reversible dependent on direction. Unfortunately I can't remember the exact set up, and since I have now sold my Lenz kit I don't have a DCC system to query it on until I find something that suits my needs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Hi all, A lot of people are recommending Express Models lighting kit on this thread and another couple of mine. Are there any real benefits to it for £20 over the correct size led's with resistors (a couple of £££'s)? Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigAndy Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 G'day Mark, When I did my 156, I used the led's that Express models sell, on their website and then made my own system up, pretty much, from what you describe, as you plan to do. Admittedly, my unit was working in one direction only on Runswick Leamside, so I only fitted the appropriate lights for one direction, but I don't see why you can't fit the whole shooting match, by yourself. The advantage that the Express kits has, over doing it yourself, is that all the led's are fitted and spaced to the correct length etc, so that you can virtually just plug them straight in and then fix. This is a massive time saver, but as you point out, you're paying for that, so if you're prepared to spend a little time over it ( and why not? Rome wasn't built in a day ) then I would advocate fitting the led's separately, yourself. At the time, Leamside wasn't DCC, so I wired my lights up via a switch and an onboard 9v battery ( so the lights stayed lit when the unit was stopped ), so unfortunately I cannot give you any pointers as to how to wire it all up for DCC, sorry!. cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwaterscotland Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Hi all, A lot of people are recommending Express Models lighting kit on this thread and another couple of mine. Are there any real benefits to it for £20 over the correct size led's with resistors (a couple of £££'s)? Best regards, Mark I would look at making your own - I've had 2 sets of 156 lights on order from Express Models for several months with no idea when they will be coming, I'm just told that they are on back order. (edit - just spoken to Express Models and the 156 sets are next to be produced - delay is due to some of the LEDs not being in stock) The main advantage is that you can just put the board into place without having to glue each led in place individually and then wire up. Makes for a neater installation and neater wiring. Andy B) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Andy, Thanks for dropping in on the thread. I've no problem with the led's, kinda looking forward to it. The only thing I'm trying to work out is a way of running the power to the rear coach using only one decoder. I'm sure there are loads of ideas out their, I've just not got it straight in my head yet. The other option will be to run two decoders as mentioned already (Suzie). I'm just not rushing in yet because I may have the perfect solution lying around in my boat stuff (time will tell). On another note without replacing the motor (just for talkings sake) are there any more modifications that will be worth the time and money to improve running? Im not 100% on extra pick ups but with a little input I think I'll figure it out. Actually on the subject, will I be able to add them to the existing wheels or will they need replaced with a more conductive type? As I said earlier if it takes a lot of mods and cash, then the more sensible way would probably be to replace the chassis and install my own lights. But I'm happy to do the work (I love seeing the end results). I should be it can take a year or two to complete some RC boats. Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwaterscotland Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 The only thing I'm trying to work out is a way of running the power to the rear coach using only one decoder. I'm sure there are loads of ideas out their, I've just not got it straight in my head yet. The other option will be to run two decoders as mentioned already (Suzie). I'm just not rushing in yet because I may have the perfect solution lying around in my boat stuff (time will tell). My plan was to use some minature connectors I got from Intercity Models a year or two ago (part no ICE1 : http://www.intercitymodels.com/Electronics.html). (for scale, the squares on the mat at 10mm) I currently have 4 156s awaiting work - 2 in strathclyde Red and 2 in Super Sprinter livery - some will get Hornby motor bogies fitted, some will retain the lima ones. Plan is to fit lights, underframe details (I have one Railway Lines detailing kit and a pile of Bachmann 150 underframe bits so I can do 2 at least) and renumber the units. Andy B) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSWR Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 The simplest thing you can do to improve the running of a Lima locomotive or DMU is to put extra pick-ups on the unpowered bogie. The more wheels that are picking up power the better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share Posted March 25, 2011 Hi Andy, I hope you will share your work with us on the forum? My thoughts were to run brass strip in the couplers to take power to the rear coach, but looking at the supplied ones there useless for this idea so I'll see if I can get something more appropriate for the job, may mean new boggies altogether to use this meathod. My other option are these http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=A0320122&pid=D1438411 I should have a couple of micro connectors lying around in my RC boat stuff. The simplest thing you can do to improve the running of a Lima locomotive or DMU is to put extra pick-ups on the unpowered bogie. The more wheels that are picking up power the better. LSWR, I'm going to order some brass strip for the job. Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lochnagar Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 I'd go for a black beetle or find a replacement Hornby chassis, in that order. But dependent on the livery it may be worth just flogging it and buying a Hornby one to start with. . they can be quite cheap. If it's a Strathclyde or sprinter/provincial, you'd better keep and remotorise it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share Posted March 25, 2011 I'd go for a black beetle or find a replacement Hornby chassis, in that order. But dependent on the livery it may be worth just flogging it and buying a Hornby one to start with. . they can be quite cheap. If it's a Strathclyde or sprinter/provincial, you'd better keep and remotorise it! It's the Strathclyde red. I had been looking for about 18 months when this one came up. The wife bought it for my Christmas and ironically four have appeared since then (go figure). It does run well and the body is spotless. Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretsquirrel Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Hi Mark, I am thinking of embarking on the same quest of updating my Lima 156 to be DCC compatable and wondered how you were getting on or if you had hit any major snags. The other issue that i have is that my layout is on code 75 track and i have heard that the Lima wheels don't travel too well on it?? So far i have only tested the unit in DC on SMP code 75 which seems to be ok but i have peco points which may prove problematic? Can you or any of the thread followers advise? Are there alternative wheelsets avaliable to buy if so? Anyway, hope it is going to plan and i will be interested to see the finished product! Cheers Secretsquirrel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Eh Up Squirrel, Ultrascale, do a set, the unpowered drop in pin points are 24mm axles so are shorter than the normal 26mm DCkits does some shorter ones, I have a mixture of new power bogies to go in my fleet allowing some lima bogies to be cleaned up and go for an F exam! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
secretsquirrel Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Cheers Ian, Thanks for the speedy reply, will try that, i'm hoping i can get away with it but it's good to know there's a way round the problem before throwing money at it!! All the best Mr S. Squirrel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Hi Mark The Lima motor with a lens silver or gold will perform better than the Hornby motor or a black beetle. However of you really want to change the drive the replica chassis (or half of one) is a complete no-brainer. Where the motor is hidden I am sticking with the Lima ones for my dmu's Hth Jim Hi Mark The Lima motor with a lens silver or gold will perform better than the Hornby motor or a black beetle. However of you really want to change the drive the replica chassis (or half of one) is a complete no-brainer. Where the motor is hidden I am sticking with the Lima ones for my dmu's Hth Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 Hi Jim, I may just go for a Lenz Silver. If it's no use with my particular 156 I'll find a loco that needs it. I did see a review on the Replica chassis not long after posting my question here. I'll keep it in mind if the "silver" doesn't work out. Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted June 19, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 19, 2011 Are there alternative wheelsets avaliable to buy if so? If you want a cheap and cheerful (and reliable) fix, then remove the wheelsets, fix them firmly in a power drill (or lathe if you have access to one) and use a small file to take about 0.5mm of the tip of the flanges. It may sound a very agricultural way to sort out the oversize flanges, but it DOES work! I've used this on 156's, HST's and wagons to good effect on Peco Code 75 Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Hi Mike, I've not even considered flange sizes yet. I've been consentrating on running properties, but you raise a valid point. Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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