Farish Class 14

[locoworks]

Hi

 

Has anyone taken a picture with the body off?

 

I'm wondering if there is space to mill part of the weight in order to fit a chip in the long bonnet end.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

loads of room, but width is the issue. a CT elektronics CTX75 fits with a bit of the chasis block to removed. PM me an email address and i can send you 17 pics ( 800kb ) and a few words on the subject. it is fairly straight forward.

[Pixie]

Evening Pete!

 

That etch looks interesting - did I recall reading you were going to replace the cab with an etch or are you going to modify the existing one?

 

I was thinking about it at first but having compared the two I don't think it's worth the effort. The Farish cab is very good, the finese of the window frames and rainstrip is far better than those on the etching. Other thing is that the etch is shot down from a 4mm kit and the work needed to do the rivet detail would be enough to push a man over the edge. With mine I've taken the easy option and just carved out the door, thinned out the walls and added the etched door - I think it shows off the interior nicely! Just need to add the door handle now and the cabs ready for paint and numbering.

 

 

 

Decided this one will be D9555 although I'm quite tempted to do D9502 and D9517 too now!

 

OMS -

 

Pix

[bcnPete]

Thanks Pix - Nice work indeed

 

...one couldn't help but notice that in your first image, it was photographed on easitrac on plain paper...and this image on what looks like a templot print out...a new 2FS blog is on the horizon one feels

[Revolution Ben]

Hello Pix,

 

I'd be interested to see how you get on with replacing the coupling rods with your finer etched ones. A conversion I'd be tempted with too, if it goes well!

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

[Pixie]

...one couldn't help but notice that in your first image, it was photographed on easitrac on plain paper...and this image on what looks like a templot print out...a new 2FS blog is on the horizon one feels

 

Nothing like a bit of viral marketing - consider it the railway version of Cloverfield.

 

I'd be interested to see how you get on with replacing the coupling rods with your finer etched ones. A conversion I'd be tempted with too, if it goes well!

 

Morning Ben - I don't think the ones on the etch I've got are useable, they're just too fragile and I think that they've been disproportioned a little when they've been scaled down. Jon (43179) got some very good effects with his 08 rods (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/397/entry-3842-improving-the-farish-08/) so I'm starting to think that an all new etch may be the key. The only worry is that the locating bosses for the con rods on the wheels are 1.5mm diameter so to get something nearer scale they may need removing and replacing with some crank pins from the 2mm association shop. It would be really nice to add some wheels with a closer to scale tread but the wheels under the 14s are really distinctive so I think I'll have to make do with the Farish ones, although admittedly they're not too visible when under the loco.

 

Pix

[Marty Mc]

Hi

If I was to add a 4 function decoder to this loco what lights would you have working and more to the point where are the lights on this. I understand it does not have lights so I will fit them but where. I will use 1 function for a cab light leaving me 3.

 

What would you suggest?

 

Cheers

 

Martin

[Adam1701D]

Might be tricky to make the marker lights work, as these are small protruberances on top of the buffer-beam. Lighting the headcode panel might be a better bet.

[BernardTPM]

Hi

If I was to add a 4 function decoder to this loco what lights would you have working and more to the point where are the lights on this. I understand it does not have lights so I will fit them but where.

 

They had one red and one clear light on the left and right respectively, each end. Assuming you mean when they were in service with BR, these would only be used after sunset or in fog or falling snow. The headcode could be illuminated too and was sometimes lit during the day, though not brightly. You'd probably only notice if it was illuminated if the loco were standing in a dark shadow or had a blind missing, showing the bare bulbs behind. WR style side mount brackets were provided at each end for oil lamps.

I'd have thought a cab light would only be used if the loco was stationary, in the dark. Having the light on and trying to see out might be difficult - would you drive a car with the interior lights on at night?

[Pixie]

'Scuse fingers! I've passed the point of return with my 14 now and fitted the crankpins from the 2mm Assoc. To fit them I had to open up the farish screw hole to 1.1 mm and insert some 1mm diameter tubing with a 0.5mm bore to which the crankpin just drops in. A tiny touch of superglue should hold it in but I'll wait until the wheels come back from turning. Losing the Farish locating lug and fitting something more scale has really improved the look I think and should give the model a really scale look - can't wait to get this one finished!

 

 

If there is interest I'll shift my musings onto a workbench post to keep this thread about the Farish model out of the box.

 

Pix

[Kris]

Thats a good fix to get the 2mm crankpins in. I can see how that will make the model look better.

[Pixie]

I'd be interested to see how you get on with replacing the coupling rods with your finer etched ones. A conversion I'd be tempted with too, if it goes well!

 

Had a nice surprise from the postman today when the postie dropped a reinforced jiffy bag through the post with the test etch for the 14 among other things. First time I've had a go at etching so I'm really chuffed with how it's come out! B) If anyone is interested in a set of etches (includes new coupling rods, separate doors and front valances (with and without gap for DG couplings)), drop me a PM - I'm not sure on price yet but if I can get a rough idea on numbers then I'll be able to let you know.

 

 

Quickly mocked up the bits on the Farish model and I'm really pleased!

 

 

An extremmmeeee cloossseee upppp (sorry, been watching Waynes World) of the new coupling rods and crank pins with the old ones for comparison.

 

 

All the best,

 

Pix

[Kris]

Those etches make quite a difference, you have obviously replaced the buffers as well. Where have these come from?

[Pixie]

Those etches make quite a difference, you have obviously replaced the buffers as well. Where have these come from?

 

Thanks Kris! The buffers are from the 2mm Association, item 3-512 from Shop 3. Not sure if they're spot on but they look pretty close enough to me!

 

All the best,

 

Pix

[Kris]

Thanks Pix. I need to put an order in to shop 3 at some point so they may well get added.

[Tom J]

This is not a prototype I am overly familiar with, but looking at various pictures of the class, can I please just confirm that the steps at either end of the loco should be dead vertical, and not be angled in towards the the centre of the loco at the bottom when looking at it side on?

 

I have a feeling the body moulding on my son's example may be a dud...

[Crepello]

Thought I'd just add that I'm asking Hatton's to pressurise Bachmann to produce a pristine 14 as I prefer to do my own weathering; I missed out on the first batch and it now seems weathering is standard for this class. Hopefully this method will be more productive.

['CHARD]

This is not a prototype I am overly familiar with, but looking at various pictures of the class, can I please just confirm that the steps at either end of the loco should be dead vertical, and not be angled in towards the the centre of the loco at the bottom when looking at it side on?

 

I have a feeling the body moulding on my son's example may be a dud...

 

From memory, in side elevation at least, all the steps on the prototype are squared at 90 degrees.

[Crepello]

Hatton's have replied saying they don't have any say in what Bachmann produce; oh well, it was worth a try. Looking back at 2010 comments on this thread, it seems the factory weathering may come off easier than I expected. Although they had a maximum speed of only 40mph, pictures of the prototype suggest the 14s did pick up shades of brown; I always treat slower-moving shunting types with  blacker, oily shades.

[Tom J]

From memory, in side elevation at least, all the steps on the prototype are squared at 90 degrees.

Thanks - my pictures seem to confirm this. Have swapped the loco for one possibly no better having seen at least one worse one on the running front, but with slightly straighter steps. Looks like there is a slight issue with the castings being slightly deformed though.