2mm Andy Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 (edited) No need to be quite so pessimistic, Thos. The NRM at York hold a vast collection of drawings from Wolverton works (where the LNWR built and repaired a huge quantity of rolling stock). The drawing catalogue is on the NRM website, so a trawl through it may well find something of use. Given that the saloon was restored prior to it going to the KESR (it was an ex-Longmoor Military Railway vehicle and came to the KESR via the Severn Valley Railway) I doubt if they will have prepared many drawings for it. Andy Edited October 17, 2012 by 2mm Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Strat Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) Hi, just a quick question to do with the 2mm Association sample kit. I'm currently building this as my first real attempt (I did try the Bryn / Stephen Harris group build ages ago but this looks a little bit safer before I go back and attempt those again) and I've come across a very slight problem, though I suspect it may have more to do with the instructions. I've built the plastic body (2-501) and as per instructions added the buffers (step 6 - Plastic Body Kit Assembly). For the chassis, (2-353A) I've also soldered the top hat bearings in, added the bufferbeam strengtheners and it all runs true and square (I'm quite amazed to be honest). However, the shanks of the buffers that protrude through the bufferbeams prevent me attaching the body to the chassis (step 8 ) Indeed it looks from the gaps in the strengtheners as though I should have fitted the buffers last. It's no big deal, I'll try and trim them in situ (another question, would my xuron track cutters be suitable for trimming the buffer shanks?). Anyway, I was just wondering if it was my mistake, the instructions or both? Oh, and another question, I intend to build it as unfitted so I don't need the tie bar (if my research is anything to go by) but I forgot and left it on. Is it best practise to trim this off beforehand, or later on in the build as it may help strengthen the chassis during the construction. It is an excellent learning process in problem solving, btw. Paul Edited October 21, 2012 by 54Strat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 It is sometimes easiest to add the buffers once the body and chassis are fitted together. This is one of those kits because the head stocks are part of the body. You could either chop/file the buffers back or chop/file the chassis between the sole bars so that there is enough clearance to unite the assembled body with the assembled chassis. I've never read the instructions so I cannot comment on them. As for Xurons: I've used them to cut buffers myself however I'm not sure that it should be recommended. Brass is soft enough that it shouldn't damage them significantly. You will probably still have some filing to do because the track cutters will not cut flush. You can chop the tie bar before or after. I usually leave them on until near the end once everything is folded up and fixed. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Strat Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Thanks for the reply Rich. I re-read the instructions and they do lead you to this situation if followed properly. I've managed to get a good fit now by cutting and filing and I left the Xurons alone after finding my hard wire cutters. And the tie bars will wait til later. Thanks again. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Paul, Thanks for the feedback on the kit instructions - I had a hand in amending them a few years ago, so I will try to get them altered to remove the discrepancy. TBH I think the chassis etch has been revised at some point in the past as I have some photos from the original instructions which show whitemetal axleboxes and springs being added to the chassis - the original etch didn't include them. I have cut buffer tails before with an old pair of Xuron rail cutters with no noticeable damage to the cutting edge (I'm not sure I'd want to use a brand new pair though!). I quite often do this before fitting the buffers to the wagon. As Richard mentions, it doesn't really matter when the tie bar is removed. I find it easier to cut it off fairly early-on in the build before it gets damaged. Andy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 (edited) Hi eveyone, Just a quick question. Does anyone know if the Dapol A3/A4 and Farish A1 will require rewheeling to run on easitrac. I am just contemplating dipping my feet into 2FS and building a very small test track with a motive power shed based on East Coast operations late 50's. (alongside building my long term cornish N scale layout! I must be mad! ) Best regards, Jeremy Edited October 26, 2012 by cornish trains jez Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted October 26, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 26, 2012 Hi eveyone, Just a quick question. Does anyone know if the Dapol A3/A4 and Farish A1 will require rewheeling to run on easitrac. They would run on the plain easitrac but if you have any thoughts of 2fs pointwork then they will need rewheeling - Not an easy job with those locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 They would run on the plain easitrac but if you have any thoughts of 2fs pointwork then they will need rewheeling - Not an easy job with those locos. Thanks Kris. Is it more of a long job to replace the wheels? Or is it just really tricky? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Re wheeling might require as much work as replacement frames/wheels/gears etc, or it might be possible to get the wheels reprofiled with the back to back increased if you are lucky, or anywhere in between. The minimum amount of work required for conversion of a steam locomotive is usually dictated by the wheel/axle materials/construction and the chassis assembly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted October 26, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 26, 2012 Thanks Kris. Is it more of a long job to replace the wheels? Or is it just really tricky? The easiest option would be to have the wheels reprofiled, however this has been known to fail. Even this would not be a quick option as you would still need to take the loco's to bits then rebuild them. With all the valve gear this is not a simple task. The best option would be a new chassis but that would be a scratch job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Re wheeling might require as much work as replacement frames/wheels/gears etc, or it might be possible to get the wheels reprofiled with the back to back increased if you are lucky, or anywhere in between. The minimum amount of work required for conversion of a steam locomotive is usually dictated by the wheel/axle materials/construction and the chassis assembly. The easiest option would be to have the wheels reprofiled, however this has been known to fail. Even this would not be a quick option as you would still need to take the loco's to bits then rebuild them. With all the valve gear this is not a simple task. The best option would be a new chassis but that would be a scratch job. Thanks guys for your advice. I'll see if I can get the wheels reprofiled first then if that fails, have a bash at a scratchbuilt chassis. However I have never done this before so will be a challenge for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Thanks guys for your advice. I'll see if I can get the wheels reprofiled first then if that fails, have a bash at a scratchbuilt chassis. However I have never done this before so will be a challenge for me. The other option is to use Easitrac bits, but build to allow N gauge wheels to run. Have a look at TomE's 'Ropley' layout for a superb example of this approach. There is a chap developing an N gauge track system along the lines of 2FS 'Easitrac'. I don't think it's on the market yet though. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Thanks guys for your advice. I'll see if I can get the wheels reprofiled first then if that fails, have a bash at a scratchbuilt chassis. However I have never done this before so will be a challenge for me. Before you start, you may want to check the availability of spare parts. If it reprofiling goes wrong, you have wheels which don't work with N or 2FS. You've picked a difficult starting place for a conversion or re-chassis. Outside valve gear and lots of wheels usually makes things complicated. - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Ok 2mmFolkS, I have hunted high and low on RMweb's search facility but have found no reasonable answer (though some old posts of mine ) so I turn to you for some guidance about point tiebars. I am aware that soldering to a pcb sleep is not the recommended way of doing things so what do people reckon is the best way to do this? Thanks Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Ok 2mmFolkS, I have hunted high and low on RMweb's search facility but have found no reasonable answer (though some old posts of mine ) so I turn to you for some guidance about point tiebars. I am aware that soldering to a pcb sleep is not the recommended way of doing things so what do people reckon is the best way to do this? Thanks Tom Have you bought our new and wonderful book 'Track'? If you are not a member, then not as it's only on general release in the new year. That will tell you all sorts of tiebar mechanisms, plus more or less everything you could ever want to know about 2mm trackwork. However, soldering to a moving sleeper is still very much a valid method. The solder joints have to be small but strong. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi, Earlier today I've found (Google has found) this website: Somersham. I don't think is 2mm but I liked the idea for the TOUs. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi Chris, yes I am hoping to get the book at Warley and may have to wait till then. I just wondered if there was a stronger method. T. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi,Earlier today I've found (Google has found) this website: Somersham. I don't think is 2mm but I liked the idea for the TOUs. Valentin, thanks for that and a lovely layout.. always good to see others ideas T. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted November 12, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 12, 2012 Hi Chris, yes I am hoping to get the book at Warley and may have to wait till then. I just wondered if there was a stronger method. T. Hi Tom, as Chris says soldering rail to a moving PCB sleeper is perfectly acceptable. I beefed up the joint with a chair plate (small square of brass). They have been in use on Highbury for about thirteen years and over sixty shows without a problem. On Tucking Mill I have done similar but turned the sleeper upside down and soldered the rail to a pin which passes through the sleeper into the chair plate thus giving a pivot which takes the strain off the joint. I will be next to the 2mm Association stand at Warley so when you come to buy your copy of the track book, say hello and have a look. Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Are there going to be any Track Books left by then? I was going to pick up mine at Warley. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Are there going to be any Track Books left by then? I was going to pick up mine at Warley. More can easily be printed with a quick turnaround. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Thanks Jerry will do and Ill have another look at those point levers! Might wait to finish other points till I get the manual... Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 As far as I know there are plenty remaining (the print run was over 1000), but there will be a limited amount at Warley (mainly cos they're heavy!). Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted November 13, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 13, 2012 Are there going to be any Track Books left by then? I was going to pick up mine at Warley. I'm supposed to be picking up another box at Warley so I will make sure you get one Tim, Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Jerry, can I be cheeky and ask for dibs on one as I will be coming Sunday and there may have been a stampede for them by then Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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