Any Question Answered

[cornish trains jez]

Hi everyone,

 

I'm just converting my trackwork from N to 2FS and was wondering what is the best way/easiest way to motorise the turnouts? I would be really greatful please for any tips / pictures of how it should look and how to do it. Or maybe there is a good thread on here that I haven't come across yet. Being a "newbie" to 2FS, turnouts and there motorisation scare me!!

I also need to produce a Y turnout and any tips on this would be welcome too!! Lots of "asks", but I would be very grateful for any help and info.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

[-missy-]

Hello Jeremy.

 

There are so many answers to your question. May I suggest you purchase the book 'TRACK', there are a few suggestions in there. It will help you with lots of aspects of 2mm trackwork including operating points. Its £15 and available here ;- http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/trackbook/

 

Missy

[queensquare]

Hi everyone,

 

I'm just converting my trackwork from N to 2FS and was wondering what is the best way/easiest way to motorise the turnouts? I would be really greatful please for any tips / pictures of how it should look and how to do it. Or maybe there is a good thread on here that I haven't come across yet. Being a "newbie" to 2FS, turnouts and there motorisation scare me!!

I also need to produce a Y turnout and any tips on this would be welcome too!! Lots of "asks", but I would be very grateful for any help and info.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

 

To answer your questions briefly, I would operate turnouts in much the same way as you would in any other scale although I would be wary of using solenoids in 2mm because of the substantial thwack they deliver. As regards Y turnouts, they are built exactly the same as any other turnout. If you are new to track building I would go with soldered PCB rather than easitrack as I find it a lot easier to both build and adjust.

 

The best advice by far is, as Julia has said, get hold of the Track book from the Association and have a go. 

 

Jerry

[cornish trains jez]

Hi Jerry and Julia,

 

Many thanks for your advice. I'll get a copy of the book, sounds like a very good investment.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

[chrisveitch]

2mm Association Loco chassis kits - I know the association price list has links to drawings and instructions for the replacement chassis kits (I'm particularly thinking of the 57xx and Austerity) but is there a shopping list of the bits you need for each anywhere? I realise it can probably be worked out from the drawings but I haven't seen a list of recommended parts. 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

P.S. Yes, I am a member.

Edited April 18, 2013 by chrisveitch

[Kris]

There was a list that went out about the time of release, but I can't remember if it was in a magazine or on the yahoo email list.

[2mm Andy]

There is a list of the parts required - it doesn't include shop code numbers though, and there alternatives for some of the parts (e.g. metric vs. imperial gears). It's in the instruction sheet which can be found via the link from the shop listing (which I think you have found anyway?)

 

Andy

[djgriff]

Hi Chris in the shop listing click the blue info icon then click on instructions for inside framed loco's where you will find a list with wheels gears and bits needed , hope this helps.  Dave

2mm Association Loco chassis kits - I know the association price list has links to drawings and instructions for the replacement chassis kits (I'm particularly thinking of the 57xx and Austerity) but is there a shopping list of the bits you need for each anywhere? I realise it can probably be worked out from the drawings but I haven't seen a list of recommended parts. 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

P.S. Yes, I am a member.

[Valentin]

What I used for For J94 / Austerity:

• Motor: 3-257
• Association frame spacer PCB 3-157
• Loco wheels (3 pairs): 3-006
• Crankpins (6): 3-107
• Crankpin washers (6): 3-109
• 30:1 Worm set with 1.5mm bore worm: 3-362
• Phosphor Bronze bushes (10): 3-113
• gear muffs (2): 3-101
• axle muffs (2): 3-100
• Final drive gear: 3-343
• 14 tooth 64DP spur gear: 3-341
• Locomotive axle steel 1.5mm dia x 75mm long (4): 3-110
• 0.3 mm brass or nickel silver wire (I used Phosphor Bronze - Eileen Emporium)
• 0.12 mm Phosphor Bronze wire for Simpson springs (if used)

The 30:1 worm set (3-362) is out of stock and it has been replaced by 3-364; for this I have enlarged the bore to accommodate it on the gear muff 3-101.

 

Good luck!

[2mmMark]

Hi everyone,

 

I'm just converting my trackwork from N to 2FS and was wondering what is the best way/easiest way to motorise the turnouts? I would be really greatful please for any tips / pictures of how it should look and how to do it. Or maybe there is a good thread on here that I haven't come across yet. Being a "newbie" to 2FS, turnouts and there motorisation scare me!!

I also need to produce a Y turnout and any tips on this would be welcome too!! Lots of "asks", but I would be very grateful for any help and info.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

Apologies for the late reply. The "Beginners Guide to 2mm Finescale Modelling" features a small demo layout which comprises 2 Y points. There's a comprehensive set of instructions on building them, plus a section on how to operate the turnouts when completed.

 

Mark

[chrisveitch]

What I used for For J94 / Austerity:

• Motor: 3-257
• Association frame spacer PCB 3-157
• Loco wheels (3 pairs): 3-006
• Crankpins (6): 3-107
• Crankpin washers (6): 3-109
• 30:1 Worm set with 1.5mm bore worm: 3-362
• Phosphor Bronze bushes (10): 3-113
• gear muffs (2): 3-101
• axle muffs (2): 3-100
• Final drive gear: 3-343
• 14 tooth 64DP spur gear: 3-341
• Locomotive axle steel 1.5mm dia x 75mm long (4): 3-110
• 0.3 mm brass or nickel silver wire (I used Phosphor Bronze - Eileen Emporium)
• 0.12 mm Phosphor Bronze wire for Simpson springs (if used)

The 30:1 worm set (3-362) is out of stock and it has been replaced by 3-364; for this I have enlarged the bore to accommodate it on the gear muff 3-101.

 

Good luck!

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll get working on a shopping list. 

[54Strat]

Hi all.

 

I've just started a couple of 21t minerals (pic of body 2-502 kit here) and I'm using the Fence House 2-351 12' chassis (pic here). Would anyone be able to tell me where the buffer beams are? I've looked through the association's shop and not found any to buy separately. So is this something I should make myself, not hard I guess but I can't help thinking I'm missing something?

 

Thanks

 

Paul

[Pixie]

Hi Paul,

 

Perhaps not the answer you're looking for, but try using chassis 2-358 for the 21T mineral. Same design, but with the buffer beams. The 2-351 is good for kits like the BR Pipe where the bufferbeam is part of the body moulding.

 

Cheers,

 

Pix

[54Strat]

Thank Pix, that's top advice.

 

I'll order some, and use the 2-351 chassis for some more 24.5t minerals I'm building alongside the 21t wagons.

 

Paul

[Will J]

Hi all in the 2mmFS area!

 

Not so much a question, more an idea whereby I'm checking that my thinking is along the right lines. I am keen to make my next project fully finescale. At the moment I model in straight from the box N gauge with my Victoria Bridge diorama appearing in my blog. I'm on quite a steep modelling learning curve, my only previous experience being OO gauge stuff on a flat board as a kid. My N gauge work has at least got me modelling scenery in three dimensions...!

 

The minute I embark on the project, I will of course send off my association application form, dont worry Jerry, it will be the one with 'Highbury' scribbled in the corner.... I have to confess I am holding off for now until I convince myself it is the way to go.

 

I want to model a local scene, set in the fifties with short freight trains and slightly scruffy Pannier tanks (I think this has something to do with Highclere...). I regularly cycle along the remains of the Wyre Forest section of the railway from Bewdley towards Tenbury and Wooferton.

 

I fancy recreating Wyre Forest station, which still exists in recognisable form as a private dwelling.

See: http://www.blountarms.co.uk/?p=p_11&sName=Wyre-Forest-Station

 

Am I right in thinking a Farish GWR railcar would be a good first model for a painless finescale conversion? I am thinking of a simple wheel swap and replacement of the upper superstructure with 3D printed windows and frames to add to the scale fidelity? I have been collecting books on the line, and have seen railcars with single wagon tail loads, so I would even end up with a 'locomotive' of sorts.

 

I am still persevering with 3D printing, despite some perplexing failiures to print, and hope to bring this into the equation.. maybe even creating a printed base for the two points that the station would require.

 

The next step would be a Pannier tank, but one thing at a time... Other locations in the area that would be interesting would be the Clee Hill branch, but that is one for another day!

[richbrummitt]

Am I right in thinking a Farish GWR railcar would be a good first model for a painless finescale conversion?

Yes. I had the wheels done via the wheel turning service on the example I have. Cheaper than replacements, although more difficult to go back.

[Will J]

Thanks Rich, sounds like I have my starter project lined up. You'll have to forgive me asking basic questions (though I suppose I'm in the right thread!) but are turned Farish wheels the same as 'proper' replacement wheelsets? In other words is the more expensive (and more reversible) option of all new wheelsets a better option in terms of running qualities...

 

...or are they the same give or take a few thousandths of something...?

 

Also I understand why the ultimate option for a small loco is a whole new build 2mmFS chassis, but is a similar 'quick fix' with turned wheels possible with an old metal bodied 57XX pannier?

 

I am thinking of short term running solutions while I get my model engineering skills up to speed (starting with track, then stock, then locos).. at the moment what skills I have are more based on the scenic, fluffy side of things than micro-metal bashing...!

[richbrummitt]

Thanks Rich, sounds like I have my starter project lined up. You'll have to forgive me asking basic questions (though I suppose I'm in the right thread!) but are turned Farish wheels the same as 'proper' replacement wheelsets? In other words is the more expensive (and more reversible) option of all new wheelsets a better option in terms of running qualities...

 

...or are they the same give or take a few thousandths of something...?

The width of the tyre is the same as it was but the flange has some material removed to make it match the 2FS standard. The fat wheels are not so obvious behind the bogies side frames.

 

Running quality will be the same as with replacements because all else being equal it is most dependant upon motor/gearing/cleanliness etc. rather than the shape of the wheel flange.

 

 Also I understand why the ultimate option for a small loco is a whole new build 2mmFS chassis, but is a similar 'quick fix' with turned wheels possible with an old metal bodied 57XX pannier?

Should be. The fat wheels will be more obvious here. The etched replacement chassis would be a good thing to move onto subsequently.

 

I am thinking of short term running solutions while I get my model engineering skills up to speed (starting with track, then stock, then locos).. at the moment what skills I have are more based on the scenic, fluffy side of things than micro-metal bashing.

Your Victoria bridge looks good in all the photos on here.

[Will J]

Thank you for your replies Rich, they stack up to give me the nudge to get going on the project, soon!

[richbrummitt]

Thank you for your replies Rich, they stack up to give me the nudge to get going on the project, soon!

Do it you know it makes sense

[Ian Smith]

DG Coupling Height Above Rails

 

All,

 

I know this question has probably been answered somewhere else before but a search of RMweb and the 2mm VAG did not yield an answer.  Therefore can anyone please tell me what height the buffing plate should be above the rails?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Ian

[-missy-]

4.5mm to the bottom of the buffing plate, 5.5mm to the top.

 

Missy

[Ian Smith]

4.5mm to the bottom of the buffing plate, 5.5mm to the top.

 

Missy

Thank you Julia.

 

I've spent a few hours today building up and fitting the DG's to some of my stock but couldn't for the life of me find out how high to adjust them to!

 

Ian

[queensquare]

Hi Ian, 

as Julia said, 4.5mm to the bottom of the buffing plate. I've been using this crude but effective jig for best part of twenty years - four bits of 40 thou and one 20 thou plasticard

 

 

Jerry

[nick_bastable]

 

 

im getting increasingly frustrated at brass/nickle models flaking paint on final assembly

 

There scrubbed and rinsed followed by ultrasonic cleaning primed with etch under coat and the paint still flakes !

 

any tips ?