cactustrain Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 It's time to throw my hat into the ring and disclose my entry for the 2011 challenge. Basically, I'm going to do a scrapyard. Not too sure exactly what is going to be in it yet, but it will be made using the Dapol plastic kits. The track layout will be very simple, probably just two straight pieces of track. I will be painting the backscene using watercolours. (I'm not a fan of using photos - I like to create everything on my layouts using my own creative abilities. Also definitely out is the idea of using the real world (as in 1:1 scale) as a background - that isn't modelling in my book) Normally scrapyard engines are the poor relations on model railway layouts and are made from old substandard stock. I'm hoping to go one better than that. I'm starting with the 9F and I think I'm right in saying that this is one of the old Kitmaster designs, which means it must be getting on for 50 years old. The basic dimensions seem okay, but there are areas that have been simplified. I've started by cleaning up the pieces (the quality is pretty dire by modern standards - flash and sink marks all over the place- , but that's hardly surprising!) and removing unwanted detail. Now it's a question of adding detail back on where I want it. In this shot you can see that I've taken some of the footplate away and added distressed floorboards to the cab. The main frames have been strengthened and extra holes drilled that are prototypical but not included on the kit moulding. Here are various parts I have scratchbuilt, including motion brackets. They're not completely accurate, but they give the correct impression. I've added the spring detail to the front bogie and reused a metal wheel from another project The cab roof vents have been removed and I cleaned the firebox backplate of detail Revamped cylinders and smokebox door. The wheels have had the correct treads put back on (only the centre wheels are flangeless). More updates as and when. May be sporadic as DIY, gardening, and of course work, keep getting in the way! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJH584 Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Nice idea, but surely in a scrapyard would you not have more than two pieces of track? I appreciate that your are limited on space i.e. 11 inches wide BUT, according to the rules, you can have 11 inches long by 20 inches WIDE - if I have read that correctly. Having seen pictures of Barry scrapyard, it is a big wide open space with several loco's stacked one behind the other on several tracks so 20 inchs wide would accomodate you, albeit with one loco on each track. It will be interesting to see how you deal with the backscene. Regards David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactustrain Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 Thanks for the idea David. I hadn't really thought about whether to make the layout taller or wider - I'll have to ponder on that one. Certainly gives me more options to play with. It seems that Wales has become synonymous with scrap and so everyone immediately things of Barry scrapyard - not suprising really. I would agree that recollections of the early days of Barry bring to mind long rows of engines spread over a large area. I don't think I'll have time to model more than 2 or 3 engines though, so I'll probably go for the latter days - really decreprid wrecks surrounded by quite a lot of vegetation. No doubt the idea will evolve as time goes on. You're right about the background though - I might be biting off more than I can chew! Again, I'll just try out ideas and see what works. There's a large element of experiementation involved with watercolour anyway. Part of the fun of the medium is its unpredicatbility - you can do the same scene the same way several times and they'll all come out different and you never know quite what you're getting until its dry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Even on 11" wide, you should be able to get 4 or 5 tracks, depending on how much space you want between them. And this is probably one of the few places where you can realisitically extend the scene using mirrors (not usually a big fan of mirror backscenes as it tends to end up with odd things like vehicles on the wrong side of the rod or trains having near head-on collisons, but should work here provided you can stop viewers seeing themselves in the mirrors!) . You might also be able to find some models you can adapt on a second hand stall/shop/ebay. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted June 25, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 25, 2011 Who says you need a backscene? When I started modelling as a lad, it was with Airfix and Tamiya planes and tanks, long before I got an interest in modelling railways (I left that to my dad to make our layout ). I often made dioramas for my tanks and in typical military modelling style, none had backscenes. Don't get trapped in the layout building mindset for this challenge (e.g. it has to operate, it has to have a backscene etc), it'll give you more scope to play with. You may come up with a good solution for a backscene in which case all well and good, but don't feel you have to have one. Case in point, and in keeping with the challenge theme. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactustrain Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 Thanks for your valued input. Some good ideas coming up! I never thought of using a mirror! I'll check that one out, although, as you say, it's keeping the viewer/camera out of view. Ric: that diorama is lovely. There's no doubt that the millitary modelling guys are the ones to follow. I can always fall back on the option of no backscene if I'm unhappy with my efforts and not be too disappointed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Thinking more about the mirrors - even if you can't use them at the back, should work as endscenes where they won't be viewed square-on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Vale Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I'd be interested to see something without backscenes - I'm not sure there's enough space in the challenge footprint for a backscene to read as distant, especially if you're modelling an urban environment. Being able to take photos from all directions is a plus as well, and you might be able to shoot in front of a suitable real scene to get a "complete" image. Just my 2p, mind you. The loco bits look excellent, I look forward to seeing how this comes out. Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactustrain Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Well it's all happening here. The baseboard is up, the first loco is, more or less, complete and, for once, I've actually made a plan! First, the baseboard. I decided to make a removable backscene that will give me the option of taking photos with it in place, or removing it when on display. I will experiment with a further backscene that employs mirrors at a later stage - this has a lower priority than other areas. The three lengths of track I will use have been temporarily laid in place. One piece has a claim to fame as it is a bit of James May track from the challenge shown on TV! I believe all the Hornby dealers have some (what are you going to do with yours!) This is my plan and it's a rather crude sketch. Basically, there are two storage sidings over the back holding locos that have been around for a while (just because I want to model some rust!). Towards the front will be a cutting area with a loco being dispatched. I could do with sourcing a crane. It's needs to be mobile and road based, as this is what seems to have been employed at most yards. Do you know of a suitable model? The building is one I was going to use on Byworth, but didn't use in the end. It needs a fair bit of work yet, as only the walls have been stuck together so far. The 9Fs tender is basically finished, except I haven't added any decals yet. I need to experiement here and get a technique that works for peeling paint. Watch this space... (do you know a way?) Here is the 9F itself. It's all either Dapol or scratchbuilt apart from the front wheel (Gibson), and the brakes (Bachmann). It's come out pretty well, but I can improve for the next locos. I'm now working on a Bulleid pacific and a 4MT, both from the Dapol range. I have to admit that I'm not particularly enjoying working to a time limit - for me it's counterproductive. I prefer to model when I feel like it and go at my own pace. So I think I'll just cut down on the content if it all gets too much for me. As it is, I think I will struggle to get everything in I'd like and finish on time. It isn't in my nature to compromise on quality as I would just bin the results. Let's see how it goes. 13 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Interesting idea The 9F looks excellent! the quality is pretty dire by modern standards - flash and sink marks all over the place- , but that's hardly surprising I suspect you have a pretty recent production - the original kits are pretty sharp but the tooling must be rather worn by now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 That 9f..............10/10 absolute;y lovely! Spent loads of time at Barry as a kid. from 1969 onwards really so you have really captured the look. Loving it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 The 9F looks brilliant, the rusting looks spot on! Any more pics? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalescenes Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 That looks brilliant! I have always fancied having a crack at a scrap yard and it is great to see that you really pushing this idea to another level! Really looking forward to following your build! FYI here are are a couple of other nice rust techniques of military modelling origin: Hairspray weathering (my attempt on South Oak Road) and another rather nice paint chipping technique that uses salt (Fichten foo - amazing website!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 The 9F looks excellent, the weathering is especially good! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post cactustrain Posted August 9, 2011 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 9, 2011 Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm working flat out at the moment while I have a chance. The Bulleid is in the paintshop and the 4MT is being built. (Although with these kits, there's quite a bit of destruction goes on before any construction starts!). Here is a peek at the Bulleid. It isn't weathered yet and the decals are yet to be applied. Some more shots of the 9F. Better ones this time as I got the studio lights out. This still needs weathering and decals as well. After these 3 locos are finished I'm going to start on the baseboard. I'll need quite a lot of scrap around too, so that should take up a good deal of the time remaining, 24 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 totally amazing rusting effect and the locos look fantastic, really caught my eye these have stunning work,what process did you use to get the look. Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactustrain Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 Hi Neil, Scalescenes has given links to the techniques I use further up the thread. Also, if you want to know how to build models, subscribe to the plastic modelling mags - their stuff puts ours to shame and you'll learn a lot. All the best, Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 Just read throught the 2 links and there brillent, never ceases to amaze me the things you can use and the results you get in modelling. Thanks Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackrob Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 Excuse my French but, that is flipping amazing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 This is taking Airfix/Dapol to another level! Very interesting weathering techniques, particularly the use of the salt, must have a go here! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactustrain Posted August 11, 2011 Author Share Posted August 11, 2011 There's all sorts of things you can use as release agents. I've heard of people using Marmite or even peanut butter. The thing is to experiment and see what works for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Vale Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 I think the really nice thing about your results is that the rust and flaking is very much in-scale. You occasionally see these techniques massively overdone with lots of relief, which looks lovely and crunchy but not very realistic. Whereas the above looks terrific! Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Grafarman Posted August 11, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 11, 2011 Truly excellent; almost feel sorry for the poor thing in that state...whip round for the SVR anyone??!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Funnily enough I have just remembered whilst spraying cam onto Landrovers in the RM, we used to cover the windows etc and anything glass with grease, then spray the green/black and when dry, powerwash off. I suppose anything greasy could be used on a model, perhaps something water soluble (KY Jelly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) ! Imagine explaining, "Actually its for a model!" 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 11, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 11, 2011 Imagine explaining, "Actually its for a model!" A model, sir, of course; blonde, is she ? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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