Michael Delamar Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Pre-TOPS electric by Fray Bentos, on Flickr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 cant embed this one but its a nice colour shot. 85012 with 0O00 headcode at Wigan with a train of bogie tank wagons, 21st February 1976. http://www.flickr.com/photos/pics-by-john/6657903851/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl BR Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 I think the guys who have Bee Lane have a couple of 85s now and if they run their models extensively then this could be a good barometer as to the durability of the pans used under tension with catenary. So far my two 85's have done around 2 hours of running on Bee Lane and the Pan dose seem to be up to the job of riding up against the wires. One of them even got the better of a base board joint wire that had unclipped from a head span. The wire was left buckled so I think the Bachmann Pan is as robust as the Summerfeldt ones. One thing a lot of you may find is the pin that holds the elbow of the pan together is a loose fit and it may work it's way out over time. I found one of the pins already missing in one of my 85's on delivery and had to make a replacement out of brass rod that is a tighter fit. Carl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnw1 Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 85012 with 0O00 headcode at Wigan with a train of bogie tank wagons, 21st February 1976. http://www.flickr.co...ohn/6657903851/ 85009 with 0O00 at Euston, 20th April 1976 http://www.flickr.com/photos/pics-by-john/5847449465/ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Hi All One thing I forgot with my detailing is the lamp irons that are fitted above the buffers. For the pipe people are talking about I used 0.8mm wire filed flat on the back so that it can sit over the moulded detail. I have started weathering my pair and will post how I did it at the end if people would like to see it (just like the post rather than clog up the thread if thats the case) Cheers Jim 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 clog the thread up Jim, thats what I do with all these flickr pics 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave flint Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) Don't we know. It's really appreciated by those who mainly view this site on their phones.... You can post just the url on here Edited May 21, 2012 by dave flint Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 I know I go on my phone aswel. I just think its a bit better as not everyone clicks the links as that takes time too and they might be clicking a link for something that doesnt interest them. but will keep that in mind, maybe post them at smaller thumnail res. I dont do it for any thanks, Im looking for pics for myself mainly but do like to share them if it find something that could help or be of interest to someone else. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tetsudofan Posted May 21, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 21, 2012 Picked up my 85 from the Hobby Shop at Faversham on Friday and having being laid out over the weekend by one of those 24-hour bugs managed to do some testing today - as everybody says, the Cl.85 certainly does run sweetly. Having managed to get the pantograph up, just got to work out how to clip it down now..... The Belle is dcc-fitted and runs well but at slow speed not as smoothly as the Cl.85 on analogue. Keith 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
87023Velocity Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I was going to try and resist temptation and hold off from buying one of these, however, don't think that will happen. A business trip into Liverpool I think is required, with a diversion via Smithdown Road. Failing that, I could always pick one up at the Wigan Exhibition in June! Cav, that 85 you have renumbered and weathered looks brilliant, I cannot wait to see it on Outon Road. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 email from Hattons today.. "Bachmann UK 31-676 Class 85 (AL5) Bo-Bo Electric E3058 in BR Electric Blue with twin pantograph. Price up to £86 on Sunday 20th May. £86.00 Our latest information from the supplier suggests this item will arrive with us on or after Monday 28th May 2012 Whilst we are hopeful this information is accurate, manufacturer lead times are frequently prone to be delayed. This information is to be used as a guide only" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Hi all I might be biased as I like leccies but I didn't realise the Heljan DP2 is also available(seems to have gone somewhat un-noticed) I hope Bachmann are paying attention to the fuss the 85 has generated. It's slightly interesting to note that the etched double arrows are marked as LMR 25kv and not class 85! Cheers Jim 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
frobisher Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 It's slightly interesting to note that the etched double arrows are marked as LMR 25kv and not class 85! Oooh Just had a quick check of the dimensions listed on therailwaycentre.com (which may or may not be correct). An 81 looks like an obvious next step if you want to reuse the drive mechanism. Are the bogies themselves actually the same on the two classes? Are they shared with the AL6 as well..? Happy hunting ground for Bachmann if that's the case. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 The bogies are the same yes (their mounting braket is different but that's moulded on the body) They are different to the 86 but that would just need a new plastic bit - the mechanicals are fine (same for an 87 and 90) Cheers Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 A Bachmann 87 or/& 90 would be nice!! Cav 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 details of wheel and chassis dimensions http://www.clag.org.uk/wheelbase.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Comparison shot of a before and after. Not much more to do to the 85 now. I dont think. Cav 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaneofFife Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) Comparison shot of a before and after. Not much more to do to the 85 now. I dont think. Cav Re-gear to 80mph? Talk about not hanging around though.........The best work Ive seen Cav. Edited May 22, 2012 by ThaneofFife Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Hi All This is how I have weathered my class 85's (other methods are available but I hope this is useful.) I use 3 different techniques and the first is washes. I use neat turps substitute to 'wet' the model and then with small amounts of paint add streaks and dirt around the details - those used to water colour painting will find this very familiar. For 85020 I found a pic with the front looking quite chipped and to replicate this I loaded my brush with a small amount of grey and used a screwdriver to flick the paint onto the front. I also washed the roof and the corridor while I was at it. The next stage (when thats dried for a few days) is airbrushing. I Use humbrol 29 for the dust and a mix of gunmetal and black for the greased bits. Final stage is drybrushing Referring to pictures class 85s seem to collect dark patches on the brake push rods, the axleboxes, on the battery box hinges and below the dampers - use gunmetal for this and also to highlight the springs. Use metal coat aluminim for the edges of the footsteps and finally a touch of clear floor polish (or gloss varnish) for the shiny bits on the push rods. (you can better see the chips on the front in this picture) Below a couple of pics on the layout Cheers Jim 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaneofFife Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Nice touch with the silver showing behind the back of the buffers (something I suggested to Bachmann last year in order to retain the sprung buffers-painting just bungs them up). Is there any story behind choosing to renumber them 18 and 20 Jim? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philiprporter Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 This model is a belter, no doubt about it - and it looks even better weathered - great job Bachmann and great weathering Jim and Cav! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 what it should be about! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Cav I see that you've modelled 108, was there any changes to the locos other than, Just the speed restriction for the /1s? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted May 22, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 22, 2012 I got the first of my Bachy 85s today (£85 from Cheltenham Model Centre). Very pleased with it, definitely one of the best RTR locos we've ever had. I'm also very pleased with how close the body shell matches my own scratchbuilt one. The pan is very nice, with suitably weak springing, so much so that it passes my pencil test and will be permitted to run under my OHLE. My test is that the springing has to be weak enough that the weight of a pencil will push the pan down. The pipework in the roof well is good, I haven't had the chance to compare it with the roof pics I have on the laptop yet but I'll get to that later this evening. There's a vey definite mould line down the corners of the nose that could benefit from some attention with a file but would then require the nose being touched up. I haven't been able to run it yet either, I'll need to find the brake release first anyway - the brakes are moulded in the on position a consequence of laser scanning a parked loco I guess... Other thoughts on the bogies:- they seem a little 2d, the brake cylinders are very low relief and the angle looks wrong (possibly because they are moulded 'on'?) On the whole though for first impressions I'll give it 9&3/4 out of 10... Andi 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oldlugger Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I am pretty unsure or what you are saying here oldlugger. The loco should have a fine scale pantograph so that the average modeller can use a hugely over scale completely wrong overhead system with it? Using 0.3 wire is 20% over scale (00 track is only 13% under scale!) however the technique for scale overhead is the same, it's just a case of sourcing the right stuff. Colin Craig does Insulators and I can produce my registration arm etch for those interested. If people are drop me a pm with numbers. Cheers Jim It is perfectly clear what I am saying if you just choose not to be deliberately perverse. I'll spell it out yet again; why can't manufacturers supplying the British market produce a pantograph that works out of the box, that doesn't require modifications of some sort or replacing altogether? Also in answer to the post of another here, it was suggested that the average UK modeller does not understand or know how to erect catenary. My answer is, Sommerfeldt for the average UK modeller. It may be over scale but it still looks perfectly acceptable and performs very well. For those like you who feel the need to produce catenary with microscopic wires (judging by your remark I can only surmise that your wires are under 0.3mm) Sommerfeldt is not an option. I was building, and pioneering with a friend of mine (who scratch built a scale model of Tiefencastel station on the Albula line in Switzerland; one of the finest layouts I have ever seen, putting most of the best P4 layouts to shame) very fine scale RhB and SBB catenary way back in the 1980's, just as fine and finer than your stuff on BNS, and it was energised. I'm sorry to say. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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