RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted December 3, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2011 A shame, though I guess understandable given how much of an undertaking that would be. If only the collection of GW drawings was in Swindon, would have made life much easier!!! I understood that Eric Mountford left all his drawings to the GWS at Didcot and that they included a number of Pipe Drawings. It was Eric's view, and I have heard it elsewhere, that when looking for detail on a Western loco the best drawings to use are the Pipe Drawings because they were done last and as they were for the pipework they had to accurately reflect the construction rest of the loco. I haven't got a clue if the drawings are indeed at Didcot although Eric's daughter did tell me that that everything her father had said should be left to the GWS had gone there and equally i don't know what there is or whether they are accessible. So perhaps an inquiry with the GWS archivist might be the next step? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 6, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2012 Progress at last, I've finally sat down and spent a Friday afternoon working on the 2251 cab drawing. So far I have prepared the the fold up cab front / sides and the roof (with fold up rain strips on the left/right hand side. I'm a little unsure how I will add the rain strip on the back edge, if it was not for the two curved cut ins on the sides I would have added a flat tab/slot soldered onto the back of the roof, however doing that with the curves will need a bit more thought into the design I might just leave it off the etch and have a go at fabricating it once I have built it. Im not too happy with the positioning of the cab front windows, unfortunately I do not have a dimensioned drawing of this area and have had to work with hand taken measurements off a print out. Are there any members of the south Devon railway on here who could take a couple of measurements of the prototype? In particular I am in need of the distance between the out side edge of the window and the edge of the cab side, but any more would be much appreciated. The next step once I decide the outline of the cab sides is finalised is going to be adding the rivets, then drawing the internal support details, seats etc. The more I look at photos the more the footplates lack of rivets is bothering me, though I think the work to rectify this is probably a step too far..... If anyone wants a look at the drawings so far I can send the file (Autocad 07) or a screen shot via email (the latter will be uploaded here once the Image Upload starts working properly again. I do keep wondering whether I should just buy the Finney kit and save myself a lot of work, though with my current ability are forming curves I'd need a lot more practice first. I was also wondering about making a sort of Mainline Finney hybrid, adapting my firebox/boiler/smokebox to fit the Finney cab/footplate.... Any idea if Finney will sell the etches for the body separate to the chassis? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Any idea if Finney will sell the etches for the body separate to the chassis? Think its all etched on one sheet Rich although it is in separate sections on there. You'd want all of the castings as well though anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 7, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2012 Think its all etched on one sheet Rich although it is in separate sections on there. You'd want all of the castings as well though anyway. Will keep that in mind if the current approach fails and I need a re think. For the time being I will stick to the current method and see how far I can take it. That said, I will have a crack at trying Finney for a couple of castings (assuming the bits I am after are actually castings) For a start I could do with the 4 raised 'mounds' 2 either side on the top of the fire box, along with the box that is located behind the whistles Really wishing I still had access to Solid Works to build up a 3d model to help see how all the rivets are going to turn out... Speaking of Rivets. Which would turn out looking better, half etching them on or pushing through from the back? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonesome_whistle Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 For a start I could do with the 4 raised 'mounds' 2 either side on the top of the fire box, along with the box that is located behind the whistles That'll be the mudhole door covers. David Geen does a rather nice lost wax casting for these. The Modelex prairie that you have has a (slightly less well-defined) whitemetal casting that you could steal for the time being. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 7, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2012 Cheers There were a few other bits in daves range that I'm after so will order some Just the central line of rivets on the cab side to go then it's onto the inside Another question (I know I've asked before but not quite got an answer) what size boiler back head is needed? I know 247 developments offer 3 sizes and assume I need the small one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Speaking of Rivets. Which would turn out looking better, half etching them on or pushing through from the back? I think they look better pushed out from half etched holes in the reverse. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 That'll be the mudhole door covers. David Geen does a rather nice lost wax casting for these. T They are copper pressings, I picked up a load off him at Scale4 this year. But these can also be found on ebay...being sold by a M Mitchell. As to rivet detail...why not try the Archer decals? They are really good. I added some to the running plate of the Brit that I have under construction. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 ....I do keep wondering whether I should just buy the Finney kit and save myself a lot of work, though with my current ability are forming curves I'd need a lot more practice first. Equip yourself with a rolling mill and bending bars. GW Models produce very good ones. You won't look back after that. I was also wondering about making a sort of Mainline Finney hybrid, adapting my firebox/boiler/smokebox to fit the Finney cab/footplate.... ...but nothing wrong with a hybrid - there are many ways to skin a cat. Any idea if Finney will sell the etches for the body separate to the chassis? He may have done it for some people, as far as I know (that's how builders like Tom Mallard are able to get their bits without any apparent difficulty), but it helps if you're a good customer of his. Don't forget that the smokebox/ no.10 boiler/firebox and inside cylinders/motion from the 2251 were used on the 94xx, so you might want to use your drafting time profitably by having a go at etches for the 94xx footplate, pannier tanks, cab/bunker and chassis to incorporate the Finney or Bachmann boiler. There hasn't been a decent 4mm scale 94xx for some years now. They are copper pressings, I picked up a load off him at Scale4 this year. But these can also be found on ebay...being sold by a M Mitchell...... Damn right there - he recently sent me a few packs. The first time Malcolm offered his 4mm scale mudhole covers on eBay, I couldn't believe that bidding touched a tenner for a pack of 4! When I wrote to him about this, he replied that he couldn't believe it either!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 7, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2012 Will keep an eye on ebay in case they come up, if not when I finally make my Geen order I will get some. I've just dug out the castings from the ModelEx kit, Will fit them for now but they will be coming off and being replaced once I get the better ones I think.... Either way, another good improvement over the original Next question, also re detail parts. Does anyone make an etch for what I think are the washout plugs? (the round recessed bits further down the firebox) If nothing suitable is available I will add a couple of rings to the etch to glue on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 .....Does anyone make an etch for what I think are the washout plugs? (the round recessed bits further down the firebox) If nothing suitable is available I will add a couple of rings to the etch to glue on. In the 1980s you could get things like these from quite a few outlets, Crownline being probably the best-known. Nowadays, the standards have moved on, and people prefer to produce full kits as opposed to separate component parts. What would be useful would be the 4mm scale equivalent of Warren Shephard, who offers his 7mm scale engines (mostly GW) in the form of component packs, so you can build your loco stage-by-stage, as and when you can afford it or have sufficient time to build. For example, you can buy just the bare bodywork etches as a pack. Then, when you're ready, you can buy individual castings / pressings separately. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 7, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2012 What would be useful would be the 4mm scale equivalent of Warren Shephard, who offers his 7mm scale engines (mostly GW) in the form of component packs, so you can build your loco stage-by-stage, as and when you can afford it or have sufficient time to build. For example, you can buy just the bare bodywork etches as a pack. Then, when you're ready, you can buy individual castings / pressings separately. A shame that sort of thing isnt available It would be nice to not only be able to pick and choose component for castings separately from kits (I get the impression the Geen castings are available in this way, the problem there is knowing which bits he does (given the website does not appear to list everything) Having kits designed in such away that should you mess up a component (say for example you miss role a curve) it would be a lot more helpful if you could buy (especially for people who are just starting out in etched loco building and hence more likley to end up miss forming a component) In this case I am happy enough with the actual detail of the plugs, its just the top flange that stands proud of the firebox thats the real issue. Now added to my etch Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 ...Next question, also re detail parts. Does anyone make an etch for what I think are the washout plugs? (the round recessed bits further down the firebox) If nothing suitable is available I will add a couple of rings to the etch to glue on. When I needed washout plugs for my 14XX, I made them from 2mm long sections of brass tube (1.6mm IIRC) drilled out to thin the wall then pressed 1mm square rod in from behind with a touch of solder to stop them coming apart. The rod was filed to a taper so that it was a tight fit from behind, but roughly scale size at the outside end. Very simple to make. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 7, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2012 When I needed washout plugs for my 14XX, I made them from 2mm long sections of brass tube (1.6mm IIRC) drilled out to thin the wall then pressed 1mm square rod in from behind with a touch of solder to stop them coming apart. The rod was filed to a taper so that it was a tight fit from behind, but roughly scale size at the outside end. Very simple to make. Nick Is that 1.6mm internal or external diameter? Will have a damaged Mainline 4300 bodyshell on which I will expiriment, if it comes out as well as yours on the 14xx then they will definitely be used on the Collett (and on my 14xx and 58xx when they get done later on once a few projects have been completed) At any rate looks like I have another Eilienes order to place! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Is that 1.6mm internal or external diameter? External. I've just dug it out to check and it is 1.6mm (aka 1/16") Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 7, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2012 Cheers, Will get some ordered asap! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 7, 2012 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2012 A bit more work. I've just removed what I believe to be the superheater off the boiler (a separate part) After an attempt at reprofiling the Mainline tooling (which had a square profile rather than the round of the prototype). I am still not happy with the result, might be another candidate for replacing...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonesome_whistle Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 They are copper pressings, I picked up a load off him at Scale4 this year. But these can also be found on ebay...being sold by a M Mitchell. As to rivet detail...why not try the Archer decals? They are really good. I added some to the running plate of the Brit that I have under construction. regards Mike Interesting about the mudhole covers - the ones in my Geen 45XX are still attached to the sprue and are very definitely lost wax. [Edit: Time to eat humble pie! I have found the pressed copper mudhole covers in another bag of bits and pieces, goodness knows what the lost wax thingies are - hopefully all will become clear when I eventually build the thing!] I'll second the Archer decals recommendation - they can be bought directly from the manufacturer and arrive quickly for a transatlantic purchase. T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.