'O' gauge ? first tentative steps. Corrugated goods shed part 3: Painting and weathering

[the penguin of doom]

Thanks for that Sean, however the Severmill individual numbers I've used distort slightly when separating them from the etch (no mater how carefully I tried). I initially tried varnish but ended up using a tiny amount of  superglue so that I could get them to sit dead flat to the body-side (hence the bloom which will need a touch a paint).

 

I'm not sure you can handle Heljan Hymeks delicately either... they weight about a ton and a half ;-)

 

David

You're right there David.

 

I nearly dropped my 26 when I first got it. Well, I say when I first got it, I hadn't actually handed over the cash, so in theory.....

 

Well, I'll leave it there.

 

I've taken on board your reply, so please don't think I'm labouring the point, but how difficult would it be to re-flatten the digits, (on the Hymek, not your fingers.....).

 

Only reason I'm going on about it is that sods law dictates that if it was me, I'd end up sticking a digit to a digit, or worse still, leaving a dirty super glued finger print on the body side.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

[N15class]

Looks good.

I always try and have a hard floor when model making as it is easier to sweep and sift the sweepings for the lost parts.

[David Siddall]

Sean, no worries... you're not labouring the point at all. The individual characters I've got come from Severmill Nameplates and are tiny even in 7mm scale! They're beautifully etched (I think) from stainless steel – far stronger than brass and thus challenging to cut from the fret. Chopping defo' not an option, they'd have vanished into orbit at the first attempt! Best solution I could come up with was a very small pair of very sharp snips used very, very carefully. Even then I found some characters bowed slightly hence the need for something with a bit more grab than varnish to attach them securely to the flat cab-side.

 

'N15', have a feeling that removing the carpet from the spare bedroom might be frowned upon. There are also gurt gaps between the floorboards beneath ;-)

 

D

[David Siddall]

Just managed to unpack my purchases after returning from a somewhat quiet but highly enjoyable Bristol Show. As of 10.30 this morning I wasn't actually even considering trying to get there however the efforts of a group of local farmers to grit the parts of our route to the main roads other gritters do not reach came good at the last minute – partially a community thing but mainly because they need their milk collected!

 

And um... I might have mentioned that the main reason I wanted to go today was to take a final close look at Westdale's 121 prior to buying one – I however came back with one from EasyBuild! Why, because they had a three-car set in green on the stand which convinced me, despite previous misgivings, that their kits can produce a fine looking model in this livery. The kit also features a redesigned and re-engineered power bogie in response to comments about the previous version. Everyone on the stand furthermore went out of their way to show me precisely what's involved, to re-assure me that if I get stuck I can just contact them; even to the point of offering free replacement parts if I cock anything up so badly that it puts the build in jeopardy! The price was also 'all in' – no extras apart from adhesive, paint and transfers... I like that :-)

 

Highlights 1: Getting the chance to meet and talk with Brian Daniels and to say thanks for his help (on here) in resolving the buffer spacing issue on my JLTRT van. I was particularly impressed with his tablet-catcher fitted Heljan 31 – OK and with the magnificent forthcoming Heljan Western which IMO really 'looks' like a Western despite the detractors pointing out flaws I can't see! Unfortunately neither have a place on 'Little Shuffling on the Plank' (or in my budget) so all I can say is ...hey ho :-/

 

Highlights 2: Being invited operator-side on Andy Goulding's superb 'Courtover Town'. I complimented him on the layout's smooth running assuming DCC, he invited me round the back to view the layout's magnificent 'DC' control panel! He also gave me some advice about turnout drives and offered any help I might need in the future. What a nice bloke, privileged access much appreciated :-)

 

TTFN...

 

David

 

PS: 'Get well soon' wishes to the proprietor of C&L. Ill health apparently being the reason for their non-attendance. No worries, I'll order my next turnout kit on-line.

[Warspite]

Highlights 1: Getting the chance to meet and talk with Brian Daniels and to say thanks for his help (on here) in resolving the buffer spacing issue on my JLTRT van. I was particularly impressed with his tablet-catcher fitted Heljan 31 – OK and with the magnificent forthcoming Heljan Western which IMO really 'looks' like a Western despite the detractors pointing out flaws I can't see! Unfortunately neither have a place on 'Little Shuffling on the Plank' (or in my budget) so all I can say is ...hey ho :-/

 

David

 

David

 

Class 31 ..... ? Western .... ?

 

Others may disagree, but if you have a goods yard or even just a goods siding, you can run either on your layout. Think of all those delightful West Country goods yards where practically anything could turn up. If I remember correctly, your loco headshunt was 20" (?) which should be just long enough for either plus buffer stop.

 

That Western would look very nice next to your impressive Hymek!

 

Stephen

[David Siddall]

If I remember correctly, your loco headshunt was 20" (?) which should be just long enough for either plus buffer stop.

 

That Western would look very nice next to your impressive Hymek!

Ah... unfortunately, whilst a 20" headshunt looked OK at the planning stage, I had to reduce it to 18" when I laid the track. At 20" the curve from the loop into the turnout looked too tight so two inches of headshunt had to go. I also reduced the loco holding tracks at the end of my traverser to match to give me more room for a fully modelled bridge and approach embankment as a scenic break. :-(

 

I would agree with you philosophically though, either a 31 or a Western 'could' turn up without stretching the bounds of prototype credibility to extremes– though it would like as not have been the end of the local civil engineer's career if it did. My motive-power plans are therefore focused on shorter wheelbases such as the forthcoming DJH Class 14 ;-)

 

D

[David Siddall]

Should be working but currently having a bit of a skive and making a start on familiarising myself with Easybuild's 19-pages of instructions for my 121. These days customers are asked to download the instructions as a PDF. Particularly impressed with the DVD featuring prototype and model photos which also came with the kit. All the big bits in the box look very well made but have resisted the temptation to start opening any of the bags – I've got the other end of a Hymek to detail yet :-)

 

I also treated myself to a Skytrex corrugated goods shed kit, the one on the elevated platform which looks very similar to the example which stood at Hemyock. Easier I reckon to figure its location and the clearances needed by building it 'before' I start laying track for my sidings.

 

David

 

PS: Just discovered that the instruction PDFs for everything Easybuild do is also on the DVD – good thinking that man, and also that the kit includes parts for both the 121 and 122 :-)

[two tone green]

Hi David,

 

Pleased to hear you made it to the show and about your Easybuild purchase. I have enjoyed building their two car 108 and almost went for the 121 as well on Sunday. The 108 does build into a very nice unit as you have seen on their stand and I suspect the 121 will be as good.

 

I have just about finished putting all the electronics in my 108 and will soon get to the painting stage as all the major building has been done. Would be very interested in the upgraded motor bogie that has been mentioned as I gave up with mine and went down the ABC gear box bogie route with great success.

 

The instructions as you have found out are very good. Far better than JLTRT and the DVD with photos of the real thing and model are very big help. Do keep us posted as to progress. Take time with the body side, roof and ends. A little bit of effort getting to marry up is worth it.

 

Just by way of a side line, I have bought a mint TTG Hymek from a trader at yesterdays show. A bit odd really as I did not know he had it until 7am today!  It seems he had it advertised using a sticky label at the back of his stall on some racking. A friend saw it and told me about it which resulted in a phone call being made and its in the bag. A good price as well so well happy. I have toyed for quite a while over the Hymek and your talk of detailing one finally pushed me over the edge into buying one. ESU V4 XL will be fitted etc and hopefully I'll get some video posted in the next few weeks after I make it home. Will look very nice next to the Heljan Maroon 52

[David Siddall]

That's good news about your Hymek Andy, I'll look forward to your take on how to wire in.a decoder. Warspite generously emailed over some instructions but I'm still a bit baffled. Suspect when I have a go I'll ditch the Heljan board – I managed OK hard-wiring a Lima Class 67 in 4-mil (even down to adding fully working Wipac marker lights), but at least the the Lenz Silvers I used to use had colour coded wiring!

 

I'll probably give the 121's motor bogie a go before attempting anything else on the kit but there's a saying that involves the words 'don't', 'hold' 'your' and 'breath'. Hymek detailing and some track fettling to finish first :-)

 

David

[David Siddall]

OK, now I'm confused! Have just installed a rather nice white-metal, rail-built buffer stop. Now you'd have thought white-metal would have been conductive and would have created a 'short' wouldn't you? Apparently not...

 

David

[two tone green]

Hi David,

 

Make a mental note to keep and eye on the buffer stop. If strange things start t happen it should be your first point of call,

 

As for the Hymek, a friend of mine is collecting it this weekend for me of the dealer and should be in my hands Monday morning in work. I will whip the top off Monday evening and get back to you once I have had a butchers hook inside.

 

Its Heljans first go at O gauge and the insides have come along nicely with each iteration they have released of this ever increasing popular range. I have done quite a few now so have a good idea what needs doing. But with it being number one in their range there may be a few more issues to deal with. The 47 was relatively easy, the 37 is easy. Early releases needs the resistors adding in the lighting circuit, the later version are already in line.

 

The motor wiring is the same for all, just need to decide on series or parallel wiring for the motors.

 

As for the 121, it is supposed to have an improved motor bogie so fingers crossed you wont need a replacement. Do post your progress with it please. I must upload photos of my 108 and the progress made with that. The sound installation may be of interest as it will be similar to your set up. I would have thought.

 

Have fun.

[David Siddall]

Had a quick look at the 'new' power-bogie components on my EasyBuild 121 late yesterday evening Andy and they're definitely very different to the example shown on Spenc's thread.

 

I'll post a pic when the camera battery is re-charged.

 

David

[PatB]

OK, now I'm confused! Have just installed a rather nice white-metal, rail-built buffer stop. Now you'd have thought white-metal would have been conductive and would have created a 'short' wouldn't you? Apparently not...

 

David

 

I would have thought you'd need an isolating gap in at least one of the running rails.  Both if any of your locos' buffers happen to be live.  Whilst whitemetal isn't a particularly brilliant conductor it is a conductor and so I would expect to need some provision for preventing a short.  I guess if you fit it after painting the rails, the paint layer may provide sufficient insulation but I wouldn't be inclined to count on it.

[David Siddall]

Thanks Pat... you've confirmed my suspicions. I'll gap one of the rails.

 

David

[David Siddall]

Components for the 'improved' DMU power bogie from Easybuild (supplied with my 121), intended to counter issues raised by customers about noisy operation with the previous version. When we spoke at the Bristol Show Shawn pointed out the new, more robust brass frames, and the use of different axle bearings and gears aimed at producing a smoother, quieter unit.

 

 

David

[two tone green]

Hi David,

 

Thanks for the photo. It does look different in that you have to make up the brass motor bogie brass frame. It also looks like a different worm drive that goes on the motor shaft.

 

Will be interesting to hear, no pun intended , your comments on it once built. Mine using the old one piece motor mounting was awful. Even with the sound turned on on the V4 Loksound decoder all I had ringing in my ears was the dam gear box.

 

Also watch out for the top hat brass bearings. Mine wore through the end in less than half hours running. A small black dot right in the centre of the end of the bearing on the outside is the clue all is not well. The axles have quite sharp ends. Are yours blunt, they look a little different. What about the non powered wheel sets, are they blunt?

 

Good luck.

[dikitriki]

Just a thought for those considering a purchase..... When I bought my 105, I negotiated a price to exclude power bogie wheels and motorizing components, and then scratchbuilt a simple brass frame power bogie using an ABC motor gearbox and Delrin drive. Shawn was very fair on the discount.

 

Richard

[two tone green]

I got a good refund on my motor gear box from Easy Build as I went and bought the ABC motor gearbox bogie.

[David Siddall]

...watch out for the top hat brass bearings. Mine wore through the end in less than half hours running. A small black dot right in the centre of the end of the bearing on the outside is the clue all is not well. The axles have quite sharp ends. Are yours blunt, they look a little different. What about the non powered wheel sets, are they blunt?

The 'new' power-bogie axle ends are squared off which Shawn mentioned is a change intended to help locate the driven axles with greater precision. The trailing bogie axles feature pin-points. I'll think I'll treat both types to a drop of light lubricating oil.

 

David

[two tone green]

Yes, a sound move adding oil. I did but made little difference.

 

The setting of the wheel sets is a bit hit and miss in my version as it relied on almost guessing where the top hat bearings sat in the side frames. The strip of plastic card suggested to set the 'gap' did little unfortunately.

 

Anyway, you have the new version and I await news on your success with it. The 121 is still on my shopping list and it would be nice to know if I order it with their motor bogie or go straight for another ABC motor bogie.  The support and the way the problem with the motor bogie was dealt with has made me realise just how good Easy Build are and I can buy from them in confidence. Sounds a contradictory but I will buy from them again.  

[hmrspaul]

Yes, a sound move adding oil. I did but made little difference.

 

The setting of the wheel sets is a bit hit and miss in my version as it relied on almost guessing where the top hat bearings sat in the side frames. The strip of plastic card suggested to set the 'gap' did little unfortunately.

 

Anyway, you have the new version and I await news on your success with it. The 121 is still on my shopping list and it would be nice to know if I order it with their motor bogie or go straight for another ABC motor bogie.  The support and the way the problem with the motor bogie was dealt with has made me realise just how good Easy Build are and I can buy from them in confidence. Sounds a contradictory but I will buy from them again.  

Thanks to all of you discussing the Easy build DMU. A recent GoG GAzette had what purported to be a review of this model (GAzette August 2012 page 18 - 23. (possibly viewable http://www.gauge0guild.com/gazette_archive/gaz_index_glink.asp?id=222  It was a very good review for the body and a useful read, but completely ignored the advice given on how to power the thing, instead doing the all too usual O gauge thing of going to a scratch build, even using different wheels.

 

It will be interesting to hear how this build goes.

 

Paul Bartlett

[David Siddall]

Still on the subject of 121s but moving slightly off motor-bogies for a moment... the plan is for mine to be finished in green with small yellow warning panels, white roof domes and oval buffers (late 1960s as per this example).

 

Now... I've got a set rather nice Northants Model Railway Supplies oval diesel buffers (Invertrains - ML02s) to go on my Hymek and was wondering if this type would be suitable for the 121 as well? Detail photos and information about the type of the oval buffers originally fitted to 121s seems to be a bit scarce on line and the best photos I've come across so far are in Stuart Mackay's book 'British Railways First Generation DMUs in Colour'  (on pages 75 and 75) – but they don't really provide enough detail for me to be sure :-/

 

Any ideas anyone...?

 

David

[daifly]

Still on the subject of 121s but moving slightly off motor-bogies for a moment... the plan is for mine to be finished in green with small yellow warning panels, white roof domes and oval buffers (late 1960s as per this example).

 

Now... I've got a set rather nice Northants Model Railway Supplies oval diesel buffers (Invertrains - ML02s) to go on my Hymek and was wondering if this type would be suitable for the 121 as well? Detail photos and information about the type of the oval buffers originally fitted to 121s seems to be a bit scarce on line and the best photos I've come across so far are in Stuart Mackay's book 'British Railways First Generation DMUs in Colour'  (on pages 75 and 75) – but they don't really provide enough detail for me to be sure :-/

 

Any ideas anyone...?

 

David

Here's another pic:

http://www.railcar.co.uk/images/2883

 

That's the style of bewhiskered car that I'm aiming for - just as I remember them as a lad. I bought a set of Markits 'M7BufLBRStdTank' buffers (I think!). Page 52 of the Markits catalogue. I hope that they suit. I prefer the ovals to the later big round buffers.

[David Siddall]

Thanks for the heads up re. Markits. Neither the their STD 4 buffers nor the Northants Model Railway Supplies buffers mentioned above feature the triangular reinforcements on the shank which I think should be on a 121. I'm wondering whether the buffers that I'm going to take off the Hymek (which are, apart from the slightly over-thick heads, actually rather nice) might form a basis? They are after all plastic and I might be able to add the reinforcements...?

 

In 7mm scale these details are really rather noticeable... back in 4-mil days I'd have probably accepted the relatively minor inaccuracy on the grounds that I could barely see it :-/

 

Hey ho...

 

David

 

EDIT ...after some pondering and experimenting it's going to be the other way round. The Heljan buffers are going to stay on the Hymek because the Northants Model Railway Supplies versions need a fine wire soldered between the shafts to stop them rotating in their bodies – and on the Hymek the vac' tanks are in the way! Might just have to live with a lack of triangular reinforcements on the 121 to get the appropriate style heads for the era.

[David Siddall]

Some Hymek detailing work-in-progress photos – flash can be cruel, however it all looks far nicer under natural light and there's still plenty more painting/weathering to be done...

 

Replacement, flush-mounted cab-front windows
...as I think I mentioned, flash can be cruel but I think the 'face' of the loco is significantly improved by replacing the Hejan cab-front glazing.

 

Headcode box glazing replaced
Cut from some thin flexible glazing material so that it sits back into the body aperture as per prototype. The hardest job was filling the very visible mounting holes for the spigots which form part of the original Heljan glazing pieces. I ended up having to break the headcode lighting unit away from the inside of the body so I could get some filler where it was needed. Hopefully anyone else trying this will find the headcode box as lightly glued to the body as mine were, though care is still needed. In the process I was a bit heavy handed and managed to catch one of the marker light, the stem of which snapped off flush with the inside of the body shell – it would appear they're rather fragile. More compact LED replacements beckon I think.

 

Individual etched numbers

If you ever feel the urge to try this I'd suggest you go and lie down in a darkened room for half an hour. If the urge remains, be prepared for a bit of a challenge and quite possibly some frustration too – although the results do look rather splendid (I got mine from Servernside). Once again they look far better without the glare of the flash bouncing all over the place..

 

 

 

Etched replacement cab access steps

The PH Designs steps look superb and are a massive improvement on Helan's chunky mouldings. They fit straight into the originals' locating holes if you get the etched metal origami spot on. Four parts make up each step and I have a horrible feeling I've soldered the treads in back-to-front (I think the lip should hang down at the front) – blast! I have no intention of taking them all apart again so I might just add some micro-strip across the front edges of each step.

 

 

 

 

The 121's motor-bogie beckons for tomorrow... if I can 1) find some time and 2) pluck up sufficient courage.

 

David