'O' gauge ? first tentative steps. Corrugated goods shed part 3: Painting and weathering

[David Siddall]

How much soldering have you had to do on the easy build kit?

To be honest I reckon I could build mine without any soldering at all apart from connecting the pick-up wires to the motor. You could probably build the whole kit with a Butanone solvent, a thick and a thin Cyanoacrylate (Superglue) for adding detail and an epoxy for reinforcing the folds on the etched brass motor-bogie sub-frames. I've only used solder for the headcode boxes, to reinforce the folds on the motor bogie sub-frame and to attach the guard irons to the bogie cross-bearers because I'm totally hopeless and need to learn so that one day I WILL be able to tackle a soldered loco kit ;-)

 

Easybuild's instructions contain some helpful tips and you can download them from their website.

 

Definitely within the scope of a beginner like me :-)

 

David

[David Siddall]

I've managed to make a little progress on my 121's roof and headcode boxes during the week – including allowing myself to get enjoyably and semi-professionally distracted by research into the font used to recreate the reporting numbers that will appear on its headcode blinds (the full delights of which are revealed here).

 

During the process of learning about reporting numbers in the mid 1960s generally – and creating some original characters and numerals based on prototype photos (when of course I should have been working seeing as we're away this weekend!) – it did strike me that were I to attach the headcode boxes to the cab roofs as intended they'd have any glazing and reporting number in situ for life and would be nigh on impossible to illuminate where I to choose to try that at some point in the future!

 

My solution (well hardly a solution, that sounds a bit grand) has been to cut a hole in the cab roofs enabling the glazing and reporting numbers to be added at the end of the build after painting thereby avoiding all sorts of nasty masking AND, most importantly, allowing me better access with yet more filler to blend the boxes (hopefully) seamlessly into the curve of the cab roof.

 

This wheeze has however highlighted the fact that the Easybuild roof profile is a lot more MK1 than 121 (something they openly admit for reasons of economy) so the next decision is whether the top of the box should be level with the top of the roof curve or just below it. This photo of preserved 55003 suggests that it lies slightly below the highest point of the curve; but this one of in-service 55032 suggests that at the nearer end it's at the same level :-/

 

The hole I've cut in the cab roof to allow the reporting numbers and glazing to be fitted from the inside.

 

...and evidence of the amount of filling that's going to be required to recreate the prototype reality shown in the overhead shot of 55032 mentioned above – admittedly slightly exaggerated in this shot which was taken before the box was finally secured, it needs to come forward and down a mil or two!

 

Hey ho (again)... 

 

David

[two tone green]

Brave, very brave. I plumbed for the stick it on and go for the masking route.

 

As I had also already drilled and fixed the headcode lighting into the cab roof, cutting the area out with all the extra modifications to the wiring made me think it was easier to mask it off during painting.

 

In the end I painted the headcode box before adding the headcode and glazing before attaching it to the roof. Then painted the area around the headcode to stop bleed through from the LED's in the roof. I think it wont be too difficult to mask off the front of the box to protect the glazing.  

 

Hope your weekend away goes well. Similar for me and I have a new Heljan GSYP 31 sat at home awaiting me to arrive home, look at the box and leave for a weekend away with the wife. I wonder if she would mind if I took it with me?

[David Siddall]

The next train I see (tomorrow morning) will be one of those smart silver EMU's which shuttle along the Costa del Sol so I don't think it would be diplomatic to take any modelling this weekend. Trying might also cause issues with a certain Irish budget airline's paltry cabin baggage allowance! Eldest son and his wife are treating us to a long weekend in Malaga where they live and work – they claim it's because we don't get to see them enough but I suspect they just want to make the point that their smart new house has more bedrooms than ours and a pool ;-)

 

Back to reality (and winter) on Monday...

 

D

[two tone green]

Sounds like a nice weekend ahead. Enjoy the sun

 

Monday is not that far away.

[Kev_Lewis]

Hi David,

 

Hope you had a good weekend away.

Just to let you know that I've started building the Connioseur GWR Macaw F over on my workbench.

Starting here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/51710-kevs-7mm-workbench/?p=953616

[David Siddall]

It was good thanks Kev, a couple of days doing very little in the warm (19–20 degrees) almost made up for missing a weekend's modeling opportunities...

 

Impressive progress on the Macaw – I'm seriously looking forward to watching and learning :-)

 

David

[David Siddall]

Ponderous progress on my Easybuild 121 DMU continues and there's one thing I'm coming to appreciate... in 7mm scale if the detail aint right it doesn't half show!

 

Having spend a couple of evenings during the week and most of yesterday patiently fairing the cab roof domes into the main roof extrusion (or was it the other way round ;-) and adding the headcode boxes – the glazing and blinds for which can now be fitted from the inside – I fitted the roof ventilators and to my eyes anyway they're far to prominent and don't really look anything like the prototype fittings!

 

 

 

An hour or so of Googling has so far not turned up any suitable replacement – any suggestions?

 

I did find this magnificent illustration of what they should look like as does this pic' showing roof detail which I've been referring to throughout the build so far.

 

BFN

 

David

[trisonic]

David, I dunno anything about how they compare to the real thing but the "high contrast" between them and the roof in your photos may make them look more obtrusive than when the kit is painted?

 

Best, Pete.

[David Siddall]

...the "high contrast" between them and the roof in your photos may make them look more obtrusive than when the kit is painted?

I started off thinking along those lines Pete but then discovered that they should (in very simplified terms) be a dome with the strip over them as in Bob-65b's illustration.

 

This photo of a 121 built by Easybuild themselves shows that their take on the vents vents still look (IMO) too prominent even when the roof is painted and that they appear to have three elements – this photo of a preserved 121 at Chinnor shows that they should only have two :-/

 

I've found suppliers of the correct type in 4mm scale... just so far none in 7mm :-(

 

D

[the penguin of doom]

Hi David.

 

Having finally got one cab "right" on my O gauge class 27 conversion, I whole heartedly agree that if it isn't right it don't half show! I'd also agree with you that the roof vents are a little prominent but as Pete says, this may be due to contrast.

 

Can I suggest whacking a little Grey primer over them to make the colour uniform. Even at this early stage it won't detract from the final finish and its a method I swear by to show up any blemishes on my models before it gets too late.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

 

*Edit*

 

It appears you posted while I was typing away David.

 

If the vents are the wrong type, (they look like shell dome whereas they should be ridge dome), I'd suggest complete replacement. Let me know if you find any though as I'll need some for a couple of MKI's.....

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

[TimC]

David

 

Drop Shaun a line.  If you look at this coach http://www.easybuildcoaches.co.uk/TOP/MAINLINE%20STOCK/MOD%2027.html I think these are the same as the ones you would like (maybe?).

 

If not, you could try ABS who have the old Cavalier range of coach castings.  No website I'm afraid so you'll have to call him http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/suppliers/40158-ABS_Models. 

[David Siddall]

Drop Shaun a line.  If you look at this coach http://www.easybuildcoaches.co.uk/TOP/MAINLINE%20STOCK/MOD%2027.html I think these are the same as the ones you would like (maybe?).

Good thinking and good spot Tim, the ventilators on that Mk1 look much more like the sort a 121 should be fitted with. I'll email Shawn, he's been outstanding when it comes to help and support ever since I started this build.

 

D

[daifly]

David

 

I think you may be being a little harsh on the supplied vents. I'll be interested to know what Shawn says.

 

Apart from the optical aspects of the unpainted white vents on black roof, there is some evidence to suggest that these vents may have been changed over the life of the vehicle. What you need will depend on the period you are modelling. These early photos seem to show 'large' vents:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/robertcwp/7031895545/in/set-72157603648796702

https://www.flickr.com/photos/robertcwp/4103295277/in/set-72157603648796702

but this later photo would suggest something smaller in use:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/robertcwp/3095239969/in/set-72157603648796702

 

Of course, it could be just my interpretation of the pics!

 

Dave

[two tone green]

I used the ones of JLTRT Mk1's available as an extra from them.

[Kev_Lewis]

There were three different types of vents used on Mark 1 stock and early DMU's. They are very nicely illustrated in Keith Parkins book on Mark 1 Coaches.

 

I've not seen any real pattern as to what vehicles recieved which vents. The photo of the 121 at Chinnor appears to have the "dome and ridge" type of vents", where as your kit has come with the "shell" type of vents.

[David Siddall]

I was starting to think that might be a case for invoking the 'prototype for everything' rule here however inspired by all the advice and contributions I decided to do a bit more research... ;-)

 

Dave's (Daifly's) photo links show what I think are:

 

1. A fairly recent Midline 121 (W55033 in 1990) with a 122 small roof indicator box at one end and the normal 121 large box at t'other with what Kev confirms to be 'dome and ridge' ventilators on the roof: https://www.flickr.c...157603648796702

 

2. An early 121 (W55035 undated but perhaps 1960s?), in BR dark green green with oval buffers, white roof dome and box and 'speed whiskers' and 'dome and ridge' ventilators: https://www.flickr.c...157603648796702

 

3. An early 122 (W55000 likewise undated but perhaps even earlier than 2) in the same livery as the above sporting 'shell vents': https://www.flickr.c...157603648796702

 

Which started me wondering whether it was the manufacturer which would have determined what type of ventilator was originally carried – 121's originating from Pressed Steel and 122s from Gloucester Railway Carriage & Wagon. 'British Rail First Generation DMU's in Colour' by Stuart Mackay provides some evidence for this theory as all the colour photos of 121s (pages 74 – 78) feature 'dome and ridge' ventilators whereas all the 122s (pages 79 – 81) feature 'shell vents'?

 

Since my inspiration is Mackay's colour photo of 121 55029 in green with white roof domes and small yellow warning panels I've emailed Shawn to ask if he'll sell me a couple of sprues of 'dome and ridge' ventilators from his Mk1 kits so I can see how they look as an alternative :-)

 

D

 

PS: Thanks for the steer towards the RW Caroll collection on Flickr Dave, it's turned up two excellent photos of green 121s with small yellow panels – and most importantly oval buffers – to add to my reference collection:

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/robertcwp/6349929747/in/set-72157603648796702/

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/robertcwp/6349929543/in/set-72157603648796702/

[David Siddall]

Not withstanding the foregoing discussion about roof ventilators, which I do think I'm going to change, here are a couple of photos of my 121 with the floor in and on its bogies for the first time.

 

Leaving the traverser and passing under my as yet imaginary scenic break over-bridge clearly displaying its Northants Model Railway Supplies sprung oval buffers (Invertrains ML02). That well wonky bogie foor-step will be straightened – I only noticed it when I looked at the photo on my monitor! Drilling out the headlights was a bit of a heart-stopping procedure – I started with a .075mm bit and progressed in several stages until they were opened out as far as I dare – the plastic from which the cab-ends are moulded is surprisingly soft!

 

And having made slow and stately progress down what will be the scenic section of the layout (all 10 feet of it!) at a very creditable walking pace, entering the loop headshunt to test its ability to negotiate one of my hand-built turnouts – which it did without a falter even though it's still only picking up power from the motor bogie!

 

Long way to go but this certainly feels like progress :-)

 

David

[two tone green]

Looking good David. You head code panels do look nice.

 

I know what you mean about the headlights. It does take a bit of doing and I did very similar you you but elected to file the last few thou up to the head light rim. Line the hole if you can to stop light bleed through from the light source and it adds to the 'image' as such as it looks like the back of the reflector at the back of the light. Silver foil is ok but I used speed tape which has an adhesive back to it and can be smoothed to a very flat shiny surface.

 

What are you using for lenses.

[David Siddall]

Looking good David... What are you using for lenses.

Thanks Andy, as yet I'm not sure but I'm thinking either 'Glue N Glaze' or 'Micro Krystal Klear'???

 

D

[Donw]

My knowledge of details on these modern things is scant but that does look very nice and the front with those oval buffers looks about right to me.

Don

[TimC]

 

What are you using for lenses.

 

 

David/TTG

 

I'm not sure what size you're after but I have used 30thou plasticard blanks out off a hole punch on one of my JLTRT 37s and when I get back at my Cravens I'll drill out the glue'n'glaze and use the same there too.  My hole punch did the required size of 3.5mm for the 37.

 

Thicker plastic is a real devil to get out of the punch - actually 30thou was a pain.  You need to get them out one at a time as you can't get much down from the far end so you struggle applying sufficient force to pop them out. 10thou/20thou were too flimsy and they didn't hold their shape.

 

I first ran a felt pen around the hole to represent the rubber seal (not sure you need that on a DMU though as maybe they were all metal?) and then glued them in from the back with glue'n'glaze.  You can set the depth with smaller disk of plasticard than the lens stuck to a scrap piece and then push the lens back from the front.  I found it difficult to do this by hand and get consistent results (that headcode insert is about 2.5mm deep so similar to the EB DMU fronts) but the little jig worked a treat.

 

 

I was well chuffed with the result so its worth a try - though they'll need masking when I get to the painting stage - so maybe hold off fitting the lenses until you've painted the cab.

[the penguin of doom]

Tim.

 

Do you know where you got the hole punch from? I was going to do this with my 27 but could only find a 3mm punch. I have ended up messing about with various fonts and different sized "O's" using microsoft word.....

 

Yours look spot on if you'll pardon the pun.

[TimC]

Tim.

 

Do you know where you got the hole punch from? I was going to do this with my 27 but could only find a 3mm punch. I have ended up messing about with various fonts and different sized "O's" using microsoft word.....

 

Yours look spot on if you'll pardon the pun.

 

I'm pretty sure it came form B&Q - it certainly came from Yate and there's not much there!  Its made by Draper and on Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expert-63637-Revolving-Pliers/dp/B0001K9YL0 but I don't think I paid that much for it - maybe I bought it in a sale so probably worth shopping around. 

[the penguin of doom]

Thanks Tim.

 

I'll look out for one on my travels then. I'd just assumed they we're all 3mm.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.