GER_Jon Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 Hi Jerrry hopefully you wont mind this pic the J69 was a complete beginners job and has sat in a box since I moved 4 years ago the body is not photogenic - But the chassis runs fine so I intend to complete it and showing it here means I will have motivation to finish it this year (I'll start my own thread). I dont know how to share the chassis running film as its mp4 but if there is a way I would like to. Ta Jon 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuffer Davies Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 18 minutes ago, GER_Jon said: Hi Jerrry hopefully you wont mind this pic the J69 was a complete beginners job and has sat in a box since I moved 4 years ago the body is not photogenic - But the chassis runs fine so I intend to complete it and showing it here means I will have motivation to finish it this year (I'll start my own thread). I dont know how to share the chassis running film as its mp4 but if there is a way I would like to. Ta Jon The way I show MP4 on RM Web is to load the video to YouTube and then imbed the link in the RM Web entry. I was told when I loaded my first video that this was standard practice. Regards, Frank 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 14 minutes ago, Chuffer Davies said: The way I show MP4 on RM Web is to load the video to YouTube and then imbed the link in the RM Web entry. I was told when I loaded my first video that this was standard practice. Regards, Frank And you can make the video private so it is only visible via the embedded link and not searchable on YouTube itself. I've uploaded several videos this way and the only way anyone else can view them is from the link I embedded here. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators AY Mod Posted January 3, 2022 Moderators Share Posted January 3, 2022 8 minutes ago, woodenhead said: And you can make the video private so it is only visible via the embedded link and not searchable on YouTube itself. You need 'Unlisted' rather than 'Private'. Private will only show to the account holder. 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 1 minute ago, AY Mod said: You need 'Unlisted' rather than 'Private'. Private will only show to the account holder. Oops, yes unlisted as mine are now I look again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GER_Jon Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 Thanks to Woodenhead, Chuffer Davis and AY I have learned something new so here is the short video note the track gauges used for ballast. Apologise to Jerry for hijacking his thread - this is the last one. Jon 3 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted January 5, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2022 13 hours ago, GER_Jon said: Thanks to Woodenhead, Chuffer Davis and AY I have learned something new so here is the short video note the track gauges used for ballast. Apologise to Jerry for hijacking his thread - this is the last one. Jon That’s looking very promising. No need to apologise about hijacking the thread Jon, always good to see and hear of people’s progress on projects. Jerry 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post queensquare Posted January 15, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted January 15, 2022 (edited) The M class 0-6-0 is now painted and awaiting a flash of varnish and weathering - I will post pictures as soon as it’s finished. Since Christmas I’ve spent my evenings putting together a pair of Nigel Hunt 483s which I’ve been looking forward to getting on with for some time. They are superb kits and are going together a treat. I will erect the chassis next as it will be easier to sort clearances with the bodies in this state. The kit as supplied has a modified 3250 tender which most of the locos ran with in LMS and BR days ( a handful were modified in MR days) but Nigel has now done a small subsidiary etch with the lower coal plate and full length rails, to allow the original tender to be built from the kit. Jerry Edited to add that the subsidiary etch is still at the test stage. Edited January 15, 2022 by queensquare 25 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post queensquare Posted January 17, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted January 17, 2022 On 02/01/2022 at 19:34, Lacathedrale said: Jerry, you must have a wall of stock at this point! Hi William, apologies, forgot to respond to this. The answer is that I do have a fair amount of stock and over the last year or two I have been trying to be more disciplined and only build stock for my chosen period, a long 1920s covering the years from the end of WW1 to 1930 when the S&D lost the blue livery. I've also been trying to focus on building complete trains or filling gaps so that eventually I will be able to run a representative service. This has proved successful in that I have been pretty productive and its been a while since I built anything for myself that isn't suitable for Bath. That said, it cant last and sooner or later I shall build something wholly inappropriate just for the fun of it - the last such thing was the wonderfully ugly L&Y 0-8-0 from the excellent Nigel Hunt kit seen here posed with its P4 big brother at the Portsmouth show in December. Jerry 19 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted January 17, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2022 4 hours ago, queensquare said: the last such thing was the wonderfully ugly L&Y 0-8-0 from the excellent Nigel Hunt kit seen here posed with its P4 big brother at the Portsmouth show in December. Interesting photo. If you hadn't told us I would have assumed that was a P4 model posed alongside its tinplate Gauge 1 big brother - there's something about the finish of the smaller model that makes it look more realistic to my eye. Or maybe the 4 mm scale one just needs a better smokebox door casting? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 3 hours ago, Compound2632 said: Interesting photo. If you hadn't told us I would have assumed that was a P4 model posed alongside its tinplate Gauge 1 big brother - there's something about the finish of the smaller model that makes it look more realistic to my eye. Or maybe the 4 mm scale one just needs a better smokebox door casting? The casting may be okay, it just looks poorly fitted. A shame as the loco otherwise looks well made. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted January 17, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2022 6 minutes ago, Jol Wilkinson said: The casting may be okay, it just looks poorly fitted. A shame as the loco otherwise looks well made. I thought the dogs looked a little crude: [L&Y Society webpages, embedded link.] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted January 18, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2022 Even though a King Arthur probably never got to Bath, It’s important to get the smokebox dogs right… (the bolts/nuts will be changed - see the ME thread for more info). Tim 6 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Smith Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 On 17/01/2022 at 18:33, Jol Wilkinson said: The casting may be okay, it just looks poorly fitted. A shame as the loco otherwise looks well made. Looks to me like it might be rejecting the smoke box door, starting at the top. :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post queensquare Posted January 19, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted January 19, 2022 A rare midwinters evening in the workshop tonight saw the M nudged ever closer to completion with the tender coaled and the unpainted bits on the chassis - brakes, sandboxes etc coloured in with my Sharpie pen. Chip, couplings, weathering and crew to go. Jerry 28 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted January 19, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2022 1 hour ago, queensquare said: A rare midwinters evening in the workshop tonight saw the M nudged ever closer to completion with the tender coaled and the unpainted bits on the chassis - brakes, sandboxes etc coloured in with my Sharpie pen. Chip, couplings, weathering and crew to go. Jerry Golden Virginia tins! Still the best for storage. I got dozens from a colleague over 40 years ago... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted January 19, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2022 On 17/01/2022 at 18:41, Compound2632 said: I thought the dogs looked a little crude: [L&Y Society webpages, embedded link.] Have you checked their kennel club pedigree certificate? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted January 20, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 20, 2022 9 hours ago, St Enodoc said: Golden Virginia tins! Still the best for storage. I got dozens from a colleague over 40 years ago... I love old tins and have lots in use in the workshop, here’s just a small selection keeping my toolbox in some sort of order. The After Eight tin is modern ( birthday last year) and is perfect for the job though I did have to empty it first! My favourite at the moment is the pop up Elastoplast tin which a friend gave me a couple of years ago - perfect for solder. Jerry 16 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 There's a warning above: if you cut your finger, don't go to Jerry, or he'll use solder to stop the bleeding. 1 1 1 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted January 20, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 20, 2022 3 hours ago, Nigelcliffe said: There's a warning above: if you cut your finger, don't go to Jerry, or he'll use solder to stop the bleeding. I believe this is called cauterizing? 2 1 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted January 21, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2022 On 20/01/2022 at 08:32, queensquare said: I love old tins and have lots in use in the workshop, here’s just a small selection keeping my toolbox in some sort of order. The After Eight tin is modern ( birthday last year) and is perfect for the job though I did have to empty it first! My favourite at the moment is the pop up Elastoplast tin which a friend gave me a couple of years ago - perfect for solder. Jerry Tins ain't what they used to be. 2 2 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseagull Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 On 20/01/2022 at 11:29, Nigelcliffe said: There's a warning above: if you cut your finger, don't go to Jerry, or he'll use solder to stop the bleeding. Worked for Robocop... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post queensquare Posted January 22, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted January 22, 2022 More progress on the pair of 483s this evening whilst waiting for MOTD to come on. The chassis frames, along with bearings and PCB pads were prepared a while ago so this evening I assembled them using the etched spacers in the kit, including a clever, tapered front spacer which should ensure they get round my 2’ minimum radius curves without any drama. I also prepared the boiler tubes this afternoon so that I can check clearances and do any necessary cutouts as the chassis progress. Next up are brake hangers and bogie pivot then I can paint the frames ready to put the wheels in. Jerry 20 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted January 23, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 23, 2022 (edited) Leafing through a second-hand book that I didn't buy yesterday, I came upon a photo of a 483 in BR lined black, with 2P in Gill Sans above the number in the usual way but also still with the old Midland brass 2 on the upper cab side sheet. The P and F suffixes were an early LMS innovation, although the S&DJR had been using P and G for some years before 1923. Now, if I've understood correctly, your modelling period straddles the grouping. So I have to ask: 2P or not 2P? Edited January 23, 2022 by Compound2632 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted January 23, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Compound2632 said: Leafing through a second-hand book that I didn't buy yesterday, I came upon a photo of a 483 in BR lined black, with 2P in Gill Sans above the number in the usual way but also still with the old Midland brass 2 on the upper cab side sheet. The P and F suffixes were an early LMS innovation, although the S&DJR had been using P and G for some years before 1923. Now, if I've understood correctly, your modelling period straddles the grouping. So I have to ask: 2P or not 2P? That is the question .... The LMS used 2P for all of them. Just to confuse the issue, the S&D referred to them as a No.4 class or 4P - see table below from the 1927 working timetable. I tend to use 2P for the LMS built examples and 483 for Midland/SDJR ones (although the SDJR had a small batch of LMS built examples delivered in 1928 which were 2Ps, not 483s - hope you’re keeping up at the back!). The picture below of a pair climbing Bath bank illustrates this perfectly. The leading loco is an ex Midland 483, 7’ drivers, r/h drive, Johnson tender. The rear one is a 2P, 6’9” drivers, l/h drive, Fowler tender. Tender variations is a whole other can of worms ..... Jerry Edited January 23, 2022 by queensquare 15 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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