delticman

Surely a candidate for the "When The Real Thing Looks Like A Model" thread? Geoff

Good idea Ravenser about paring away the edge of the base, less work than replacing it, but those Oleo buffers really lift the models. Damn, more spending needed now!! Geoff

Ooh those walkways do look good James and the ladders are very fine, NO I must look away now to prevent spending more cash!! I see what you mean about replacing the thick tank bases with thin plasticard, it makes a difference. Nice work but ditch those tension locks. Geoff

Well James I was originally going to use the brass walkways but as these models are crude in other areas I decided to stick with the moulded walkways which when weathered give a fair representation. It`s just a case of how far you want to go with trying to make a silk purse etc, also the cost mounts up after new wheels, ladders, paint and transfers have been added, you have to draw the line somewhere. I would love to see your TTAs, post a picture soon. Regards, Geoff

Replacing the end ladders with finer brass offerings improves the look along with finer wheels from Bachmann. My rake is permanently close coupled using bent paper clips, I agree with James these models can be made to look more convincing with a little work. Regards, Geoff

Many thanks for the update Jamie, I have been checking for updates on Ellerby for these last 3 months to no avail but I now see you had a lot on your plate. So sorry to hear of sad news in your family but I wish you luck with the house move. I know the frustration only too well as we only moved from West London to Scarborough last year and my railway was dismantled and out of action for a year up to the move. Luckily we found a house with an extended garage which has just been insulated and plastered but the railway had to go into storage while the work was done. I just started erecting a couple of the baseboards when I got my appointment for a double hernia operation, all went well but now I am not allowed to lift anything for 3 months. I have been using the time constructively sitting at the dining table repairing signalling damaged in the move and making new working BR platform lamps of the T variety of which I am very proud as these lamps were something of a Holy Grail for me as they are not available commercially. Oh and Barclay I know what you mean as when we were viewing properties the estate agents were surprised when I walked in with an extending ladder and torch! Regards, Geoff

Interesting to note the two different shades of Warning Yellow on the cab fronts proving you dont have to stress out over getting the "correct" colour on your models. Geoff

Meadow Hall box on the former Sheffield to Barnsley branch of the Great Central had its main corner timbers driven deep into the embankment but later in life had to have large timber baulks to shore up the rear of the box to prevent it falling backwards into the river below. I remember talking to the signalman when I was taking photos of the box and he remembered being on duty one night when he heard the timbers groan followed by a window pane cracking..... he was out of that box like a shot!!!

I always use enamel paints to spray my models and seal all transfers with Halfords lacquer and it has never reacted with the enamel, as Type 2 says let the enamel fully harden before applying the lacquer. I tend to leave my models at least a week before applying it. Geoff

I agree with Type 2, Humbrol spray enamel varnish is great if you get a can that works but 3 out of 5 cans will do just one pass then completely jam up. I have used the Halfords matt lacquer and that goes on a treat with an even controllable spray all the way to the end of the can, it doesnt dry with a completely flat matt finish though more eggshell. I would assume their gloss lacquer would be just as good. Geoff

Rekoboy, I am loving the old Woolworths tumbler switches on the baseboard edge, brings back memories of schoolboy pilfering days.

Another chancer pushing his luck I fear https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354412450167 Last week it was £100 starting bid or £200 BIN !!!!

Ah yes Phoenix Precision paint is good stuff (as long as you avoid their aerosols), I have never tried the Rail Grey but the Rail Blue is spot on and airbrushes well. Surely you still have to mask the windows if you brush paint? Geoff

Well, the issue with Railmatch Rail Grey has been mentioned before on RMweb, in the past I have tried using paint mixed to BS 381C 627 which was the BR spec for Rail Grey but it is a little on the pale side. I recently purchased Belton Spectral aerosol paint to RAL 7038 Agate Grey from eBay which is looking promising but I havent had a chance to try it on a model as we are preparing to move house at the moment. Maybe someone on here has tried it with a successful outcome?

The old Great Western green was nowhere near the new green which is both darker and has more blue in it. I was commissioned by First Group in 2015 to produce models of a Class 166, HST and Class 57 (with a couple of sleeper cars to represent the Night Riviera) in the proposed new green GWR livery. As the livery did not exist at that time I had no choice but to mix my own paint but you would think it would be available now. The decals were made for me by John Peck at Precision Labels using the drawings from the design team responsible for the new livery, happily he has updated them and they are now available to order from them, he has included a photo of my 166, HST, and 57 on the web page to which I have provided a link :- http://www.precisionlabels.com/d77gwr.html? I hope this is helpful, Regards, Geoff

I found that Phoenix Precision P323 Southern Dark Olive was quite close but needed to be a bit more blue. Mixing 6-10ml of Revell SM350 Dark Blue into a 50ml tinlet of the Dark Olive came out about right. Regards, Geoff

This is what railway modelling is all about, using what is available to achieve an end goal, and at a bargain price....result!!

I use wire wound guitar strings, they are cheap come in many gauges and one string will make dozens of vac pipes. Geoff

Many thanks for the info DCB, I will have a look at the Triang TT Jinty wheels but I suspect they will be rather course and solid. I may end up using the 0-4-0 16mm wheels but with the flanges ground down a little. Geoff

Many thanks for all your replies especially sawyermodels for taking the time to photograph the chassis. It is a lovely chassis and, as commented by DCB, has reduction gearing to get better slow speed running. Alas it is not what I am after, I require 14mm spoked drivers for an old Playcraft North British 0-4-0 diesel hydraulic shunter I am , ahem, "improving". I have a Hornby 0-4-0 chassis for it but need the smaller wheels. I know Romford do them but this was meant to be a budget project so it looks like I will have to locate an old Mainline 03 chassis/wheels from somewhere, and my next question......"anyone out there with some Mainline 03 wheelsets I could purchase?" Geoff

Well I had thought the same as you DCB but I have read that Toby utilised a unique chassis that was probably from the Hornby Continental range. Many thanks to sawyermodels, I appreciate your help. Geoff

Does anyone know the diameter of the wheels on the Hornby Toby chassis, I have searched RMweb but cant find the answer? Many thanks, Geoff

I totally agree with Steven B and forest2807, Phoenix paint in tins is great and when suitably thinned airbrushes well but the aerosol just clogs up and splutters the paint over your precious model. Halfords aerosols spray perfectly throughout the life of the aerosol, cover well and leave an even finish but as they dont produce an off the shelf match for Rail Blue I ordered paint from Riolett UK Aerosols. They supply any degree of gloss or matt finish and come with adjustable nozzles in RAL, BS or Pantone colours. https://www.riolettcustomaerosols.co.uk/ I did find that Halfords Rover Inca Yellow was very close to pre 80s Warning Yellow BS381C 356.

Ooh, I like the effect of the MEK on the fish van roof, I think I will try that on my disused Express Parcels SPV which is languishing in my parcels dock. Nicely recovered with the Transpennine paint finish by the way. Geoff

I wouldn`t worry too much about an exact match ( even an exact match would probably have a different level of sheen necessitating a blow over with a varnish), just mix something near as you can then, as its the lower bodyside, give the loco a fair old weathering. If you didnt want it weathered I would respray the entire body then re apply decals. Geoff