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Kirkby Luneside (Original): End of the line....


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For those of you that haven't seen it, the "inventor" of the DAS stone-walling technique (RM, Feb 13), Ian Nuttall, has an article on his layout "Dentdale" in the November RM. Very nice it is, too - along with a fair number of his stone walls.

 

They look a bit neater than the ones I've created! 

 

Jeff

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Hi Jeff

 

As you say, it will be a while before you start but it's always good to get a bit of practice in in your spare moments (A rare commodity!). Have a look at Paul Bason's book and play around with different techniques using plasticard offcuts, which can help solve problems before you start in earnest! I have a scratch building thread over on www.yourmodelrailway.net (membership required before you view the threads but well worth the effort) which covers building and painting in detail. Alternatively I have all the posts in Word format which I'd be happy to send you if they would be of help!

 

Regards

 

Bill

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Hi Jeff

 

As you say, it will be a while before you start but it's always good to get a bit of practice in in your spare moments (A rare commodity!). Have a look at Paul Bason's book and play around with different techniques using plasticard offcuts, which can help solve problems before you start in earnest! I have a scratch building thread over on www.yourmodelrailway.net (membership required before you view the threads but well worth the effort) which covers building and painting in detail. Alternatively I have all the posts in Word format which I'd be happy to send you if they would be of help!

 

Regards

 

Bill

 

Evening Bill,

 

I'll PM you on this matter, rather than woffling on here!

 

Jeff

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Jeff, Have you considered using plaster to reproduce the stonework on the station?  On mine, modelled on Lazonby, I used a basic shell of several layers of plastikard, then covered it in soft "base coat" plaster, there used to be a name for it but I can't remember.

You have to do each side at a time, let dry overnight then soak in solvent.  I remember using chloroform (naughty) on mine, being a chemist I had access.  When each side is covered and the solvent dry, smooth over and scribe in the stones,,  I used a pointed scriber,  and it is surprising how small the stones can be produced.  It's also easy because the plaster is soft (and very cheap).  However when painted using Humbrol let down with much white spirit it is surprising how hard and durable the stonework becomes.  I built a Midland 24,000 gallon water tank on a large stone base and used this method to produce the stone finish.  I succeeded in knocking it of my layout onto a concrete floor from a height of 4 feet without any damage.  It actually won a modelling competition just a little later on.

Don't wish to put you off using plastikard but just another alternative, and doesn't take too long.  The secret is to mark feint lines with dividers as guides, then fill in with the stones.  I have tried to include a rather poor pic of my building but I keep getting messages so say I can't, although the file is only1.3MB. Strange!

Derek

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Jeff, Have you considered using plaster to reproduce the stonework on the station?  On mine, modelled on Lazonby, I used a basic shell of several layers of plastikard, then covered it in soft "base coat" plaster, there used to be a name for it but I can't remember.

You have to do each side at a time, let dry overnight then soak in solvent.  I remember using chloroform (naughty) on mine, being a chemist I had access.  When each side is covered and the solvent dry, smooth over and scribe in the stones,,  I used a pointed scriber,  and it is surprising how small the stones can be produced.  It's also easy because the plaster is soft (and very cheap).  However when painted using Humbrol let down with much white spirit it is surprising how hard and durable the stonework becomes.  I built a Midland 24,000 gallon water tank on a large stone base and used this method to produce the stone finish.  I succeeded in knocking it of my layout onto a concrete floor from a height of 4 feet without any damage.  It actually won a modelling competition just a little later on.

Don't wish to put you off using plastikard but just another alternative, and doesn't take too long.  The secret is to mark feint lines with dividers as guides, then fill in with the stones.  I have tried to include a rather poor pic of my building but I keep getting messages so say I can't, although the file is only1.3MB. Strange!

Derek

 

Today has been quite amazing and demonstrates one of the strengths of the Forum. I merely mentioned the possibility of a station building and I've had so many kind, thoughtful contributions from the Lunester community! Many, many thanks.

 

Derek, I'm almost certain to use plastikard as it's a technique I've come to like as I've built viaducts, bridges and the like. Thanks for your suggestion. Chloroform, eh? Blimey - last time I saw that was in the fume cupboard at my school, 40 years ago!

 

And btw, Andy Y has put a temporary 1Mb limit on images due to Forum problems. If I want to resize, I usually dump my images into Paint and resize them down, saving as jpegs.

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

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For those of you that haven't seen it, the "inventor" of the DAS stone-walling technique (RM, Feb 13), Ian Nuttall, has an article on his layout "Dentdale" in the November RM. Very nice it is, too - along with a fair number of his stone walls.

 

They look a bit neater than the ones I've created! 

 

Jeff

 

Jeff,

I must admit I thought they were too neat.  I did not know it was his technque you were using and I wondered how he did his walls.  I actu.ally think your look better because dry walls are rougher than ones with mortar

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Hi Jeff,

 

Really interesting reading on the station building front, some absolutely brilliant tip's coming in ( I will be trying to remember them myself) as for the windows I would contact York Modelmaking as a 1st point of call, reason being I had the windows done by them for 'Dent' and they look absolutely fantastic, they did say that I was the first to order some S&C style windows and that it would have been cheaper had the design work been done, well now it has you may as well make use of it, and anyone else for that matter.

 

Oh, BTW you have to go for the full size, it would be criminal not to! I am still struggling to decide a floor plan whereas you don't!

 

(The windows for 'Dent' are still in the box needless to say but I think I will soon be making a bit of progress once I get over the spiral ordeal!)

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Hi Jeff and all, I have just got back from the show and had a very quick catch up and I see I was nominated to for something and I need to go back and find out just what it was.

 

I got some good ideas at the show for Fiddlers Yard and so will be working on these over the coming weeks.

 

I am still looking forward to the finished barn.

 

Bodgie :boast:

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A little bit of work on the cottage roof - a few joists and laths added.

 

The roof section isn't fixed in place yet - I'll do that when I've painted the inside of the cottage. A few tiles will be added on top when everything is set.

 

post-13778-0-92998000-1381696929_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-19216300-1381696934_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-93500700-1381696937_thumb.jpg

 

Jeff

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Hi Jeff,

 

Really interesting reading on the station building front, some absolutely brilliant tip's coming in ( I will be trying to remember them myself) as for the windows I would contact York Modelmaking as a 1st point of call, reason being I had the windows done by them for 'Dent' and they look absolutely fantastic, they did say that I was the first to order some S&C style windows and that it would have been cheaper had the design work been done, well now it has you may as well make use of it, and anyone else for that matter.

 

Oh, BTW you have to go for the full size, it would be criminal not to! I am still struggling to decide a floor plan whereas you don't!

 

(The windows for 'Dent' are still in the box needless to say but I think I will soon be making a bit of progress once I get over the spiral ordeal!)

 

Cheers Mike.

 

I'll use your recommendation for the windows when the time comes and I AM going to build the entire structure as per the plan (no interior though!)

 

Btw, have you seen Ian Nuttall's layout "Dentdale" in the November RM?

 

Jeff

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Hi Jeff and all, I have just got back from the show and had a very quick catch up and I see I was nominated to for something and I need to go back and find out just what it was.

 

I got some good ideas at the show for Fiddlers Yard and so will be working on these over the coming weeks.

 

I am still looking forward to the finished barn.

 

Bodgie :boast:

 

Good to hear from you, Andy. I can't say it's been quiet without you around as it's actually been very busy with discussions on modelling KL's future station building. Very, very helpful!

 

Glad you had fun and came away with lots of ideas for FY.... As if you needed any more!!

 

I'll put tiles on the roof tomorrow (so the roof is, maybe, a tenth covered) and then start the paintwork. The stone will be given the same multiple acrylic washes as I used on the walls (after all, it's made from the same "stone").

 

Jeff

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That barn is going to look the bee's knees when weathered and encased in the effects of age and weeds around the base.

 

Meanwhile, back at Carlisle, our 'Clan' class has been spotted. A quick photo before being thrown out by the shed foreman. Will be photographed on Ais Gill sometime soon.

 

post-7929-0-56496300-1381718531.jpg

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Just a thought but wouldn't there be a rafter or whatever atop each end wall? Somehow having the lathes sat on the stonework doesn't look quite right. Of course if it is up high on that massive fell nobody will be able to see!

 

Great stuff.

 

Cheers

Dave

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Jmie92208, re the bargeboards.

They are dead easy.  I took a photo at as nearly 90 degrees to one on the actual station as I could..  This was on film in the days before I had a digital camera.  When I got the pic back, I  photocopied it, adjusting the size to fit my station roof, and using cheap copy paper.  All I did then was to stick the paper to thin  (10 thou) plastikard with Pritt Stick (or similar) and cut round the differing shapes on the bargeboard with a sharp scalpel, or where there is a round hole use the correct size drill.  When done, peel off the paper, clean up and paint.  Takes no time at all. Simples!

I added a small piece of 10 thou to the ridge.  Handy as it covers the join.

 

Derek

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Just a thought but wouldn't there be a rafter or whatever atop each end wall? Somehow having the lathes sat on the stonework doesn't look quite right. Of course if it is up high on that massive fell nobody will be able to see!

 

Great stuff.

 

Cheers

Dave

 

Funny you should say that as I made an equivalent modification last night. I'll try and post a couple of pics later (when paint and PVA has dried a bit!) to show the current state of the thing.

 

Cheers Dave,

 

Jeff

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A little bit of work on the cottage roof - a few joists and laths added.

 

The roof section isn't fixed in place yet - I'll do that when I've painted the inside of the cottage. A few tiles will be added on top when everything is set.

 

attachicon.gif100_4374.JPG

 

attachicon.gif100_4375.JPG

 

attachicon.gif100_4376.JPG

 

Jeff

Jeff, can I rent this Barn as my NEW DEN?

 

hahhaaa

 

Bodgit is back :no:

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Jeff, can I rent this Barn as my NEW DEN?

 

hahhaaa

 

Bodgit is back :no:

 

On second thoughts now it has a roof its a bit to posh for me.

 

HAHHAHAH

 

BBooddgiitt :stinker:

 

Well, there's an added premium as it comes with air conditioning. And plenty of natural light. Woodworm and dry rot, too!!

 

Jeff

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I thought I'd be selfish and nab the 9000th post on KL.

 

Many thanks for all the contributions and the plethora of ideas you've chucked in here over the last 19 months!!

 

Jeff

Edited by Physicsman
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