Kirkby Luneside (Original): End of the line....

[Physicsman]

Mike, it's not the lens, you are correct. This is only a trial run, but I wanted to ensure that the fiddle yard area was as near to the wall as I could get it, in order to ensure as much clearance space for the hillside.

 

The sidings to either side of the mainline still come in at 190 - 200cm.

 

I've also shifted the left end (see prev. plan) of the yard to allow a simple sweeping curve from the viaducts into the yard. Maybe I'll change this. But at least I know it works.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Mike, I partly missed your point (no pun intended). I'll have a look at re-arranging the spurs directly off the curved points. That could gain a metre or so on some of the sidings. Pretty obvious now I look at the photo!!

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Mike, here is the changed left-hand fiddle-yard format. It can still be modified, of course, but is much simpler, gives better access to the main line and has longer storage.

 

You've also saved me some money!! The original had 2 curved points and 9 medium radius. The new one has 4 curved points and 2 medium radius. So I reckon that's a saving of about £75.....

 

Here's a couple of pics.

 

Jeff

[The Stationmaster]

That looks much better Jeff - but perhaps the left hand point (on the right in the upper picture - hoping that makes sense?) should become a right hand point coming off the next road to the right and therefore sited further back towards the end of the curve/transition (unless you specifically want two shortened loops of course - don't forget that by having a point further away from the initial fan you shorten not only the loop it leads to but also the one it comes out of).

[Physicsman]

That looks much better Jeff - but perhaps the left hand point (on the right in the upper picture - hoping that makes sense?) should become a right hand point coming off the next road to the right and therefore sited further back towards the end of the curve/transition (unless you specifically want two shortened loops of course - don't forget that by having a point further away from the initial fan you shorten not only the loop it leads to but also the one it comes out of).

 

Yes, that makes perfect sense Mike. I can change that in a matter of seconds. If we ever meet up I'll buy you a couple of pints for the money you've saved me here (and the much simpler arrangement!!).

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Actually, you've made me think of something else. If I do the same kind of thing with the other point, it moves both points off the central main line and into the sidings loops. It keeps the main line clean and increases storage space.... Excellent.

 

Will go and change them now and re-post a photo asap.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Here you go Mike. How's that? Neater again, I think.

 

Jeff

[peach james]

Jeff,

 

Is there a reason why not to use curved turnouts and move the start of those two loops even closer to the other turnouts? I am aware of the price difference on curved vs straight turnouts, but if they are going to be electrically operated, that almost becomes moot. Also, you can NEVER have sidings which are too long. (except when 2 trains try to occupy the same one...)

 

It also may make the transitions smoother into the sidings, I have found that curved turnouts seem to be smoother from that than going through the S bend of a regular turnout and then straightening out again. (it all does depend on what best fits the space, just like real life...imagine that !)

 

James

[Jason T]

I agree with Peach James, and it would be nice to keep the radii as large as you can in the fiddle yard as well, to enable you to close-couple stock, etc. if you wish to. I have to admit that I have a medium radius Pecorino turnout in the fiddle yard (what there is of one so far) and it does concern me slightly that it may be the one that causes problems, but I had little choice unfortunately.

 

As our American friends would say, go large :-)

[Physicsman]

Jeff,

 

Is there a reason why not to use curved turnouts and move the start of those two loops even closer to the other turnouts? I am aware of the price difference on curved vs straight turnouts, but if they are going to be electrically operated, that almost becomes moot. Also, you can NEVER have sidings which are too long. (except when 2 trains try to occupy the same one...)

 

It also may make the transitions smoother into the sidings, I have found that curved turnouts seem to be smoother from that than going through the S bend of a regular turnout and then straightening out again. (it all does depend on what best fits the space, just like real life...imagine that !)

 

James

 

Thanks James. No reason at all - except that I didn't think about it! I think you are right on all counts and I'll have a look at changing it.

 

Another example of an external objective view being really useful. Cheers.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

I agree with Peach James, and it would be nice to keep the radii as large as you can in the fiddle yard as well, to enable you to close-couple stock, etc. if you wish to. I have to admit that I have a medium radius Pecorino turnout in the fiddle yard (what there is of one so far) and it does concern me slightly that it may be the one that causes problems, but I had little choice unfortunately.

 

As our American friends would say, go large :-)

 

Hi Jason. I'll have a look at changing to curved points when I get the chance. I'm forcing myself to have a break for a few days. Really enjoy all the layout work, but I'm starting to feel a bit "bogged down" and want to regain a bit of vitality!!

 

As I've mentioned to Mike, James and now to you, it's good to put stuff up on the Forum for others to suggest alternative strategies.

 

I think I'll spend a bit of time just sitting back and watching developments in "Bacup"!!

 

Jeff

[gordon s]

You'll have to start building your own turnouts to solve those problems, Jeff. Anyone who can build those viaducts will find building track a piece of cake.....

[Physicsman]

You'll have to start building your own turnouts to solve those problems, Jeff. Anyone who can build those viaducts will find building track a piece of cake.....

 

Thanks for the compliment Gordon. The problem is, there's only so much anyone can do if progress is to be made. I think I might "give it a go" once KL is up-and-running and I'm onto the next project. Great thing about this hobby is the number of skill areas involved - and it's never boring (though it can be tiring!!).

 

Jeff

[Jason T]

There won't be much progress in the next week I'm afraid, as I am busy all weekend and then up in London all week with work.

 

Gordon's right, building your own turnouts is easier than you think. I find the most frustrating part to be cutting the sleepers to length; the rest is very therapeutic and doesn't take anywhere near as long as you'd imagine.

[The Stationmaster]

Definitely looking better Jeff but also a lot of sense in Peach James comments about reverse curves etc. What you do need to watch - and obviously fully understand - is the transitions coming out of curvature however you run into and out of pointwork and you might be constrained with Peco point geometry on that one.

[Physicsman]

Definitely looking better Jeff but also a lot of sense in Peach James comments about reverse curves etc. What you do need to watch - and obviously fully understand - is the transitions coming out of curvature however you run into and out of pointwork and you might be constrained with Peco point geometry on that one.

 

Quite right, Mike. I've tried to do transitional curves - and have succeeded on most of the "roads". The Peco curve has radii 30"/60", so it's not too bad.

 

Will post some photos of the results - including Branch line - shortly!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

There won't be much progress in the next week I'm afraid, as I am busy all weekend and then up in London all week with work.

 

Gordon's right, building your own turnouts is easier than you think. I find the most frustrating part to be cutting the sleepers to length; the rest is very therapeutic and doesn't take anywhere near as long as you'd imagine.

 

No problems Jason. I won't be doing much either. I think the next task - can't put it off much longer - is to get the cutters out and start track-laying!

 

Enjoy sunny London!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

I wasn't going to do any more fiddling for a few days - I'm supposed to be on the other side of the country by now! But couldn't resist - I HATE leaving things half-done.

 

I've now followed all the advice you guys have given and come up with what you see in the photos below.

 

There are 3 roads either side of the main, lengths 1.7 - 3m, and the Branch (along with a loop). So there you go!!

 

Jeff

[gordon s]

That looks a great improvement, Jeff. Have you considered doing something similar at the other end?.....

[Jason T]

Poor Jeff is never going to get across the country at this rate :-)

 

Off to Barrow I presume?

[Physicsman]

Poor Jeff is never going to get across the country at this rate :-)

 

Off to Barrow I presume?

 

Got it in one Jason. Now I don't have to do my daily penance at the salt-mines I'm free to pop over and see dad at my leisure. Apparently, Barrow has one of the highest percentages of terraced housing in the UK. Certainly plenty of it when I grew up, which is why I can relate to Bacup so well!

 

 

That looks a great improvement, Jeff. Have you considered doing something similar at the other end?.....

 

Haven't really got the space at the other end - or was that a rhetorical question!! Lol.

 

I'm very pleased with the result - much better than on the original plan. I know things will change a bit when the track actually goes down, but even a 5-10% change won't make much difference. Looks like I'll have the space I need to build my hillside structures. If you thought the viaducts were a bit over the top, I hope you'll like how I build the hillside!

 

Btw, anybody like to comment on the ease of connecting SMP to Peco (both code 75) ... the sleeper width on SMP is thinner ... presumably I only need to slip a piece of plastikard under the SMP at the join point? Jason, you've used both?

 

Jeff

[coachmann]

I've used SMP flexible track coupled to Peco points in the past. Peco Code 75 fishplates did the job perfectly but as the SMP sleepers are somewhat thinner, I made up the thickness with strips of Cornflake box card. On the Diggle layout I didn't even do this but the track was minutely up and down between points as one would expect. In place of card, plastikard it fine if it is glued down with something like Evostick but definitely not PVA as it won't dry out benieth the plastikard.

Edited September 22, 2012 by coachmann

[Physicsman]

I've used SMP flexible track coupled to Peco points in the past. Peco Code 75 fishplates did the job perfectly but as the SMP sleepers are somewhat thinner, I made up the thickness with strips of Cornflake box card. On the Diggle layout I didn't even do this but the track was minutely up and down between points as one would expect. In place of card, plastikard it fine if it is glued down with something like Evostick but definitely not PVA as it won't dry out benieth the plastikard.

 

Thanks Larry. The entire fiddle yard is Peco track, the joins only being required just inside the tunnel points where the main line and branch disappear from sight. Sounds like it'll be a straightforward joining!

 

Jeff

[The Stationmaster]

Btw, anybody like to comment on the ease of connecting SMP to Peco (both code 75) ... the sleeper width on SMP is thinner ... presumably I only need to slip a piece of plastikard under the SMP at the join point? Jason, you've used both?

Jeff

Not sure if I dare show this in such august company but here is a section (well two actually, the joint shows!) of the unfinished portable layout which now is stacked in and takes up too much of 'the room'. Immediately in front of the pannier is a transition from SMP to Peco Code 75 right on a baseboard joint and with the SMP packed up to level the rail head with the Peco. The transition joint to the right uses Peco Code 75 rail joiners which go over the top of a shaved SMP sleeper - which would later have had either part of the shaved off chair or a blob of glue to represent it to hide the trick. Packing up is probably the best answer (and before anyone asks the white stuff is kitchen towel used to create a camber at the edge of the rubber material I use as underlay as it is cut to ballast top width level and the supplier can only cut it vertically).

 

[Physicsman]

Not sure if I dare show this in such august company but here is a section (well two actually, the joint shows!) of the unfinished portable layout which now is stacked in and takes up too much of 'the room'. Immediately in front of the pannier is a transition from SMP to Peco Code 75 right on a baseboard joint and with the SMP packed up to level the rail head with the Peco. The transition joint to the right uses Peco Code 75 rail joiners which go over the top of a shaved SMP sleeper - which would later have had either part of the shaved off chair or a blob of glue to represent it to hide the trick. Packing up is probably the best answer (and before anyone asks the white stuff is kitchen towel used to create a camber at the edge of the rubber material I use as underlay as it is cut to ballast top width level and the supplier can only cut it vertically).

 

Blimey Mike, you're a bit behind the times! August? It's the 22nd of September!! Sorry, I just couldn't resist!

 

Thanks for the photo and description of your method. I'll probably use a small piece of plastikard and experiment 'til it works ok.

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff