neal Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 I know it has a large-ish flywheel, I'm not sure on the winding spec of the motor but I can assure you that the slow speed running is absolutely fantastic. You can actually see the flywheel spinning by looking down the chimney! As mentioned by many, this is a great running loco. For details, the service sheet is available on the Hornby website. N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted December 29, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 29, 2012 Great Central main line,Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 Great Central main line,Rob. Ah! I knew you were a man of taste! The pic does show a fairly ample amount of land on either side of the right-of-way... at least as may have been in the south on the London Extension. On the other hand I presume that 63670 shedded at Staveley GC would have worked in all directions... Nottingham, Lincoln, north east... and not withdrawn until mid-1964 according to Modelmaster Publications Shedcode booklet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted December 30, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2012 I was just looking at the 'Model Rail' review of the O1, and notice they mention there's no metal fall plate between the cab and tender, and indeed their pictures don't show one. However, there is one on my O1, and it seems to be preventing the loco from going round Peco double slips with the drawbar on the 'short' setting - most Hornby locos will run on my layout with the drawbars on this setting. It looks as though the fall plate catches the boxes (sandbox tops?) moulded on the tender footplate; I might try trimming the corners of the fall plate a little. Or, make a new drawbar with a 'compromise' setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 7013 Posted December 30, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2012 Hi 31A I dont know if you use DCC or Hornby decoders, however the R8249 standard decoder comes with a Matt soft sheath to cover the decoder with. I have used this to great effect making fall plates as it is easily cut to size and is pliable. I find it simply moves out of harms way when the loco goes around a corner and slips back into place on the straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted December 30, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2012 Hi 31A I dont know if you use DCC or Hornby decoders, however the R8249 standard decoder comes with a Matt soft sheath to cover the decoder with. I have used this to great effect making fall plates as it is easily cut to size and is pliable. I find it simply moves out of harms way when the loco goes around a corner and slips back into place on the straight. Hi, I don't use DCC at all - not sure whether you may be confusing me with someone else?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted December 30, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2012 I made a 'compromise length' drawbar in the end; I couldn't bear to start chopping bits off! Made it from some scrap brass etch, with holes at 19mm centres (the original gives a choice of approx 17mm or 22mm) - it goes round my Peco double slips nicely now! Also fitted the brake rigging, which seemed more of a faff than usual, on the loco in particular - the brake shoes are very solid, with no 'give' in them, and there's minimal clearance to get tweezers between the tops of the yokes and the bottom of the base plate. Still, no vac pipes to bother about on this one, and the front steps don't interfere with the movement of the pony wheels! Tender doesn't seem very heavy - I might get some more weight into it when I come to fit real coal - although it hasn't shown any sign of derailing yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted December 31, 2012 Author Share Posted December 31, 2012 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidw Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 (edited) That looks very good - looking forward to getting mine weathered! Edited December 31, 2012 by davidw 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 Thank you kindly David. I wrote up how I weathered mine here. Still missing work on the cylinder drain cocks and a few other bits, but no doubt I'll get a chance to work on them tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Looking good there SAC Martin... I must admit that basic black is not great on model locos it can hide a lot of detail. I must say I have yet to have the courage to weather a loco, though your example above looks great. My LNER (DCC ready version) arrived on Monday but as I went back to work on Monday have only had time to run it in! The slow speed running is getting progressively better. the DCC does allow the movement at lower speeds more easily (you know higher current and voltage on the track at all times) But it has yet to get down to speed step 1 or 2 as a number of others have over time. I am mightily happy with it. So after being disappointed with the L1 (the pony does look strange at times) happy with the New B1 again very slow running ...though latter unhappy to see it so discounted so serverely... the O1 has put my faith back in Hornby. Would I buy a P2... Don't know.... all the best from a burning south east Australia. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markeg Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Hi Sac martin, I too like the look of your weathering job on the 01, but have not succumbed to the weathering bug yet. Nor have I a 01 as I have enough 2-8-0's at the moment. I will wait for the Heljan 02 if it appears. Though I have an Airfix pug to build and will have a go at that first. I might then tackle something else like the 8F if it looks alright. Hi Doug, I have been working on the solution to the L1 front bogie and it works. I can not claim to be the inventor, but it certainly improves the side play. I have attached a photo. The hole goes under the first screw in the base plate. I bought a B1 at full price too and was disappointed when they discounted them. But it does run nicely and the Bachmann went onto ebay. I have ordered the P2 and will go nicely next to P2 Thane of Fife. And thats it. Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted January 9, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 9, 2013 (edited) That looks very much like my photo of my L1 mod, which I posted in the thread about GW 8-coupled tanks !!! Glad you found it worked for you on the L1; it doesn't seem to be necessary on the O1 though - the pony truck seems well behaved, on mine at least. Edited January 9, 2013 by 31A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Received my weathered 01 yesterday and I have to say I think it is the best out of the box runner I have ever had. It is quiet, smooth and powerful and I have had no problems with the front bogie. Bit disappointed with the weathering (upper body and tender) but will fix that soon. Will also have to make a new drawbar (as per 31A). The one supplied is too close on the close setting and too far apart on the other setting. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Certainly qualifies as a genuinely 'ready to run' loco based on my specimen too. Unlike my Hornby L1 and B1 examples which were a little noisy and took an hour or so to quiet, this one was near silent from the off, and would imediately perform a creep into motion and do a smooth dead slow crawl in both directions, very refined. Close setting of the drawbar is fine on my 30" minimum radius running lines and it went through a 24" radius in the yard area without trouble. Managed a 36g force drawbar pull, plenty for 60+ free rolling 4W wagons; and that figure will probably improve as the tyres polish up. Will get an extra 100g of weight at some point; as while traction is satisfactory on the level it won't do a start on a 1 in 80 with a scale length train, I don't see that as a fault, it's just a requirement for my operational set up. Heavens above, four heavy freight types allocated on ER now available in RTR, and an O2 to come. Detail stuff. Am I alone in feeling that the lack of representation of the lifting arms on the end of the bridle rod does rather show up against the generally good detail? Going to have to apply an overlay there. The small flanges on all but the pony truck are an asset to appearance. The normal size flange on the pony truck wheelset rather stands out as a result. Going to trim that down when it gets the single pivot conversion. But whatever, fine model that's going to make a great canvas for a whole heap of sh1t as it is rendered into a portrait of March's 63890 circa 1960; which truly looked like a mobile pile of rust and filth when I saw it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Have just found out - much to my annoyance - that like the L1, the O1 will activate my in-track reed switches. This presents a number of complications since my automated fiddle yard is based around reed switches. Another challenge as the PC would say! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 How about lining the underside of the loco with aluminium foil to shield the magnetic field? Stewart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 (edited) Pieces of soft iron wire above and out beyond either end of the motor are more likely to succeed. The effect looked for is to get as much of the stray field outside the motor can as high above the reed switches as physically possible. A late friend who worked on hi-fi design was outstanding at aspects like this. He could hear on a new amp I bought in the pre-amp section with a motor driven volume control the effect of the motor magnetic field - and was able to demonstrate the audibility of the effect with carefully selected music samples. Then he dropped in a couple of oddly bent pieces of iron wire near the motor - and the distortion disappeared. (He still didn't really like the amp after that, for some low order harmonic ringing that he alone could hear, but that is another story.) New product opportunity: locomotive de-gaussing kit... Edited January 21, 2013 by 34theletterbetweenB&D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Well did a bit more looking at the magnetic field today. As per my memory although i did not want to say until i had confirmed it, not much (in our world) will mitigate a magnetic field and Al is no exception. The magnet is really strong and the vertical field extends at least 3 cm from the top of the dome and is common to a friends loco so I dont think a dispersion solution will work. However, the field appears to be very weak at the running plate level and as such does not seem to activate a reed switch. I use seem deliberately as I know the reed switch can be sensitive and fast enough to throw a solenoid but not show up on a continuity tester or a bulb. Anyway, I now plan to build a vertical detector and put the magnet in the side of a wagon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Vertical detector works although placement is critical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 After numerous laps around my circuit with no problems, I got round to adding coal, adding a driving crew, weathering the upper portion, etc. FYI, 1st problem, on removing the plug from the tender I discovered one wire was not properly crimped into the connector and it separated. Fortunately it was an outside wire and i was able to solder it to the end of the crimp. 2nd problem, when put back together it would not run through one curved point configuration despite having done so many time before. After much examination it turned out that the cab door was fowling what looks like a tender bumper. Cab door was aligned equally with the opposite one so if I had bumped one then I had bumped the other equally, probability low. Solved problem by carving off may-bee approx 0.2mm. Still cannot figure out why it should have changed though. Also managed to break off part of the tender brake lever but that was my cack handed issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tom F Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) I've already posted these photos in my thread, but thought some of you may find them of interest in here. I have now finished my modifications to my O1. She now has the more common smokebox door type, and heavily weathered to reflect the condition seen in a photo dated August 1950. Here are some photos taken on the layout last night. Edited February 3, 2013 by Tom F 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Your weathering has really captured the essence of a work-grimed Class 01. I bet a lot of NE modellers would also like to see one of those beasties produced RTR as seen behind your 01, namely the B16. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tom F Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Your weathering has really captured the essence of a work-grimed Class 01. I bet a lot of NE modellers would also like to see one of those beasties produced RTR as seen behind your 01, namely the B16. Thanks Larry I certainly wouldn't mind a B16 RTR.... I need a few modelling my location, and RTR would be a cheaper option. I'm currently modifying the Bachmann V2 body to try and make a 'more acceptable' looking model. I certainly would appreciate a more hight spec V2 from Margate or Barwell in the coming years. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 One for next year perhaps? If the O1 sells well a O4/8 is a natural follow on. The only major difference is the Valve Gear . Design clever !! sort off 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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