Black Sheep Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Need some help please....! As recommend - I am hoping to go with medium or large radius points instead of setrack points (on the front of my layout) as they look more realistic, only thing is I don't know how to get the spacing (gap) between points right. Because the rest of layout is setrack there is a set width apart: But when using medium radius points the width gets narrower so I need to put some track in-between the points to space it out. But no piece of setrack is small enough so will have to use flexitrack but when I do it looks all wrong, bent and twisted (basically - not realistic): Please help the newbie! Need some help please....! As recommend - I am hoping to go with medium or large radius points instead of setrack points (on the front of my layout) as they look more realistic, only thing is I don't know how to get the spacing (gap) between points right. Because the rest of layout is setrack there is a set width apart: But when using medium radius points the width gets narrower so I need to put some track in-between the points to space it out. But no piece of setrack is small enough so will have to use flexitrack but when I do it looks all wrong, bent and twisted (basically - not realistic): Please help the newbie! Don't put the bit of track in-between would be my advice my layout uses medium turn-outs butted together, if you need to use set-track for the corners then position that so that coaches don't clip each other and use lengths of flexi for the straights. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Personally i would go with option 2 as it gives you fairly long sidings/loops. Looking to be a really nice layout MNG. Graham. Thanks for that Graham. Might make a option 4 now lol! Don't put the bit of track in-between would be my advice my layout uses medium turn-outs butted together, if you need to use set-track for the corners then position that so that coaches don't clip each other and use lengths of flexi for the straights. Thanks Black Sheep. Will play around with Anyrail tomorrow and see what I can do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 don't trust anyrail as being infallible, you still need to do the longest coach and pencil test to make sure it's not going to hit other stock. the way of doing this seems to be to hold track down with screws between the sleepers and adjusting as needed, then cut flex to suit unless you choose to use flex for the curves too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 don't trust anyrail as being infallible, you still need to do the longest coach and pencil test to make sure it's not going to hit other stock. the way of doing this seems to be to hold track down with screws between the sleepers and adjusting as needed, then cut flex to suit unless you choose to use flex for the curves too. Thanks for that advice Black Sheep, but.... I don't really have any rolling stock at the moment to test it with so with have to hold my faith with Anyrail and hopefully get buying some track!... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Hello everyone, have made a bit of a decision regarding my layout... because this is my first layout and I am on a very tight budget (and the fact that I am rubbish at modelling) I am going to make things much simpler by just mainly using setrack points (bar one on the front) and reducing the length of the board from 5ft 6" to someting around 4ft 9" to save space, money and time! Taking all this into account I have made a new track plan (well basically the same but just down-sized!) So here is it (spilt into two parts....): FRONT: TINY FIDDLE YARD: Please leave any feedback or tips/advice. Tomorrow I need to ask you about my board, so be prepared lol! But bye for now....! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 would it make sense to have the long storage sidings in the fiddle yard going the other way so that when backing trains out they don't come peeking out from under the bridge into the scenic section? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 would it make sense to have the long storage sidings in the fiddle yard going the other way so that when backing trains out they don't come peeking out from under the bridge into the scenic section? Thanks..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Steven B Posted May 1, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 1, 2012 because this is my first layout and I am on a very tight budget (and the fact that I am rubbish at modelling) I am going to make things much simpler by just mainly using setrack points Please leave any feedback or tips/advice. Tomorrow I need to ask you about my board, so be prepared lol! I appreciate the lack of money problem but will say that I've found that modelling skills don't really improve if you stay well inside your comfort zone. The best modellers I know are the ones that push the boundaries. Whilst their "cutting edge" projects might fail the level of their average modelling goes up. Happy modelling. Steven B. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I appreciate the lack of money problem but will say that I've found that modelling skills don't really improve if you stay well inside your comfort zone. The best modellers I know are the ones that push the boundaries. Whilst their "cutting edge" projects might fail the level of their average modelling goes up. Happy modelling. Steven B. Thanks Steven, I would love to make things more complex and try and improve my modelling skills but I simply don't have the space - or the money as I mentioned earlier. Hopefully when I am older I can take on something a bit better and more challenging to improve my skills. Thanks! MNG Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 we do appreciate that you are on a budget, but believe me, the streamline points (code 80 to be compatible with set-track) will look a lot better than the set-track points, steam locos will run better over them too - although feel free to use them in the fiddle yard and just run slowly when turning out from them to keep costs down. I understand that for the cost of 6 streamline points you could have bought 7 set track ones, we're just trying to encourage you to give things a go and hopefully be amazed at what you can achieve in the same way that other people have done for us over the years Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 we do appreciate that you are on a budget, but believe me, the streamline points (code 80 to be compatible with set-track) will look a lot better than the set-track points, steam locos will run better over them too - although feel free to use them in the fiddle yard and just run slowly when turning out from them to keep costs down. I understand that for the cost of 6 streamline points you could have bought 7 set track ones, we're just trying to encourage you to give things a go and hopefully be amazed at what you can achieve in the same way that other people have done for us over the years Thanks for that Black Sheep. It's not actually the cost that is putting me off - infact for the medium strealime points they are the same price as setrack points. The things that are putting me off are: - Won't be correct width so will have to add bit in middle or use flexi track for straights (and I don't want too) - Will have to cut sleepers, attach rail joiners (never done before and don't know how) - I understand that power connection is not very good so would have to feed extra wires (which takes more time and money) So those are why, I suppose if I knew how to join setrack and streamline together without having to make extra power feeds I may consider switching all the front points to streamline. Thanks..... MNG Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 This post is a combination of about 3 days but I waited until I had all the pictures so could put all into 1 post... The empty space in my bedroom where the layout may go (still not finalised yet, may re-arrange room): The units on which my main board will be on (I know I should be building proper legs but this is too permanent for me and too much money - this way the board will be able to be taken down and stored under my bed any time in just seconds and saves having to buy separate units): One completed unit after building: The empty space in my room is now filled...!: The join where the 2 units meet in the middle: Now I need to ask you guys about what sheet material is best to get for the board but I haven't got time at the moment to type everything as I need to do some more homework and revision! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Bit of free time so now is my chance to ask about boards! (sorry guys!) As seen in last post it will be on top of 2 IKEA storage units. There will be probably 2 pieces of pine running the length of the board raising it up slightly so room for wiring underneath. What type of sheet material is best for my circumstances...? Here is B&Q's full range of sheet materials: From what I have read, MDF and Chipboard are my best two options for a decent price.... MDF: http://www.diy.com/n...-T-12mm-9276267 CHIPBOARD: http://www.diy.com/n...-T-12mm-9276282 So which is best guys? Disadvantages and advantages of both...... Really need your help please! Previous experiences, rumours, stories or general knowledge about these boards - what should I go for? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanks522 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Hi MNG, I would stay well away from MDF personally, it will be very hard to drive track pins in and will swell with any liquid that comes into contact with it unless sealed plus its heavy. My choice would be Plywood, 1/2 inch should do with a couple of lengths of 2x1 screwed along it to strengthen it. Graham. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Hi MNG, I would stay well away from MDF personally, it will be very hard to drive track pins in and will swell with any liquid that comes into contact with it unless sealed plus its heavy. My choice would be Plywood, 1/2 inch should do with a couple of lengths of 2x1 screwed along it to strengthen it. Graham. Thanks Graham, I have heard people recommending Plywood but it is VERY expensive for my budget, well from B&Q it is anyway..... Any other places sell it cheaper? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanks522 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 If you have a builders or timber yard near you it will probably be cheaper plus they normally can cut it to size, It may be a bit expensive but the base board is the keystone of the whole layout, If it sags or warps then all your hard work will be ruined. Graham. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 If you have a builders or timber yard near you it will probably be cheaper plus they normally can cut it to size, It may be a bit expensive but the base board is the keystone of the whole layout, If it sags or warps then all your hard work will be ruined. Graham. Yeah I suppose it is.... I just looked on Wickes which is slightly cheaper. I noticed you didn't mention anything about Chipboard.... what do you think to this? My Dad said I should get it because it is cheap, fairly strong and just right for what I need (nothing to complex or pricey) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanks522 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Chipboard is cheaper and would be ok for what you want, again it is heavy but if your layout is staying in one place i suppose it doesn't matter so much. Graham. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Chipboard is cheaper and would be ok for what you want, again it is heavy but if your layout is staying in one place i suppose it doesn't matter so much. Graham. Yes it would be staying in one place (well may have to be moved under bed every now and then) And it is much cheaper Was just going to run some pine battens underneath it to give support and raise it for wiring.... Think it will be OK then? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Oh... I just thought. Will track pins go into Chipboard....!? If not then is there any other method of holding down track like double sided sticky tape or is that just plain stupid? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingsignalman Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Oh... I just thought. Will track pins go into Chipboard....!? If not then is there any other method of holding down track like double sided sticky tape or is that just plain stupid? Track pins will go into chipboard only with a lot of "difficulty". Double sided tape can be used to hold track in place. I once used MDF on a 00 layout, but topped it off with the softboard that goes under laminate flooring; the softboard allowed me to put track pins in easily with only a short length of pin to go into the MDF (which need a tap with a small hammer to do it). The softboard was dusty and fibrous though I had to seal it with dilute pva before laying the track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanks522 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 If your going to stick with setrack MNG you could certainly use double sided tape, will hold the track fine and will also save your fingers from all the bruises trying to drive track pins in. Graham. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oggy1953 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Plywood is definately best, but expensive. As Shanks says, try a builders merchant or 'Wickes' is usualy cheaper. Is your layout going to be portable/ Exhibit. If not then i would use the cheaper MDF and glue down track with PVA glue. It is still quite easy to get the track up using a scraper. I know your on a tight budget, and bank of mum & dad may not stay open, but there is no rush. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I have used MDF for my boards and then coated it in PVA glue brushed on in order to seal it. With regards to the set track / streamline, you only have to slide the rail joiners onto the rail (sold separately) other than that no modification needed. If you use electrofrog points (code normally looks like SL-345E, the E denotes electrofrog) then you need insulating joiners on the diverging ends Flexi track isn't as hard as you think, easiest way is removing the sleepers from where your sliding joiners on, cosmetic sleepers can be bought to go under the joins. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
devondynosoar118 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Please take blacksheeps advice and ditch the set track points. Flexi track laying is demonstrated on ngaugingtv on you tube. The easiest way of doing power feeds (I think) is this stuff, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COPPER-TAPE-5mm-WIDE-33-METERS-LONG-SELF-ADHESIVE-LIGHTS-DCC-BUS-ETC-/320857450399?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D310233840949%252B310233840949%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8117992026250668410#ht_1727wt_689 simply stuck along the route of the rails then you can add as many power feeds as you like just the same way as you would do 1. To cut the sleepers use a sharp craft knife and cut the rail with Xuron track cutters, which are really easy to use. I will post a full picture how to if you need it. I have taught 10 year olds to do wiring and lay flexi track so you should find it easier than you think! Set track points cause far more problems than they solve in the long run. I now use nothing but flexi, having never used it before I started Kingsbridge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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