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Fishplates


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Fishplates in model railway both insulated and metal - do they still have a place in our model railways.

 

For more years than I can remember I have used them and see them used on the finest examples of modeling. But are they of any use?

 

I always wire my layouts with droppers to a bus from every length of track (small, large or points) so they have no benefit for electrical continuity.

 

Physically my track is glued down and eventually ballasted solid to the base board.

 

Yet I find them quite ugly on a model, if they are supposed to represent the real thing, they do not do a good job of it and insulated ones in particular are even worse.

 

Is it about time we relegated this hang over from the days of settrack to the bin?

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Physically my track is glued down and eventually ballasted solid to the base board.

I cannot speak for others but I would not be physically able to align the ends of adjacent rails accurately enough in N gauge without them. I am impressed by those who make their own track but I cannot imagine how they avoid constant derailments.

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OK, fair point but I was considering 4mm and O gauge when I was musing on the question. Certainly in those gauges, maybe not in P4, a bulldog clip is sufficient a temporary alignment while the glue sets. At worst case use insulated throughout and a pointed scalpel to remove them when track is set?

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As fishplates are/were an integral part of the permanent way, a poor representation is better than none at all, but as I'm building a large layout, I aint mad enough to go as far as putting finescale versions on each 60 foot panel. :sungum:

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Fish plates or an equivalent joiner are still an essential part of the model railway scene. For those who like to lay track but not glue it down then how else do they achieve a satisfactory outcome? Whilst these layouts may only be temporary they do inspire many to develop and put down more permeant layouts.

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Fishplates in model railway both insulated and metal - do they still have a place in our model railways.

 

For more years than I can remember I have used them and see them used on the finest examples of modeling. But are they of any use?

 

I always wire my layouts with droppers to a bus from every length of track (small, large or points) so they have no benefit for electrical continuity.

 

Physically my track is glued down and eventually ballasted solid to the base board.

 

Yet I find them quite ugly on a model, if they are supposed to represent the real thing, they do not do a good job of it and insulated ones in particular are even worse.

 

Is it about time we relegated this hang over from the days of settrack to the bin?

 

Kenton, as far as electrical continuity is concerned, I couldn't agree more.

 

But I've just taken a few lengths of track on my old layout and removed the fishplates. Result? Still runs ok, but it looks strangely odd! Probably as we are so used to them without really noticing they are there. And as Paul says, they are prototypical so I'll continue to grin and bear them!

 

Jeff

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...I aint mad enough to go as far as putting finescale versions on each 60 foot panel. :sungum:

Some of us are mad enough to put them on 44' 6" or even 30' panels :sungum: If you are going to the effort of hand built track, then it makes sense to make it as realistic as possible and that includes scale fishplates, sleeper spacing, etc. On the other hand, I've found when laying Peco track without rail joiners it is more difficult to get the rails to line up than when hand building track. Like track pins, rail joiners have no part in my modelling but, as Kris says, there are many situations in which folk find them useful or even essential. In the end it boils down to what you are trying to achieve and what you feel comfortable with.

 

Nick

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I still use rail joiners on all my track even though I also use droppers under every length of rail in O gauge. I find it difficult to align the rail ends accurately non curves without them. However from experience with my previous layout I would not use them for electrical connections.

 

Jamie

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Whilst these layouts may only be temporary they do inspire many to develop and put down more permeant layouts.

 

I'm not knocking their use on temporary layouts and for those starting out. But we all like to move forward. and they just look so wrong and unnecessary to me.Yes I am aware of the prototype but wouldn't it be better to see a better representation used, glued to the rail sides at more appropriate intervals. I'm not a track purist, having given up EM years ago and have little desire to go P4 it just surprises me to see them used as if no one gives them any thought.

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Fishplates or railjoiners?

 

Railjoiners we can do without and they are an invention for model railways.

 

Fishplates are rarely modelled, and as above, C&L do some very nice cosmetic ones, something we should ALL use :)

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Fishplates! Something used on the prototype. I prefer Masokits etched brass ones as they also have a rail dropper tag. The old Colin Waite ones were also good. Exactoscale plastic ones where an insulated "joint" is required.

 

Rail joiners. A device used on model railways that don't look like the real thing.

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Some of us are mad enough to put them on 44' 6" or even 30' panels :sungum: If you are going to the effort of hand built track, then it makes sense to make it as realistic as possible and that includes scale fishplates, sleeper spacing, etc. On the other hand, I've found when laying Peco track without rail joiners it is more difficult to get the rails to line up than when hand building track. Like track pins, rail joiners have no part in my modelling but, as Kris says, there are many situations in which folk find them useful or even essential. In the end it boils down to what you are trying to achieve and what you feel comfortable with.

 

Nick

 

Sorry, on re-reading the post it did sound wrong, so it's been edited. :sungum:

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In 7mm scale you can buy fishplates from Exactoscale which are both functional and cosmetic. I wouldn't (personally) use anything else to join rails together. I also like to fit cosmetic fishplates at appropriate intervals because it looks better. In this scale such things can be noticed.

 

In 7mm scale the PECO things look dreadful, but they're fine to align rails in areas where cosmetic appearance is unimportant. I don't rely on them to conduct electricity, as experience has taught me that they are unreliable for this purpose.

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But they are one of Peco's (and others) top selling products - perhaps the No1? Almost everyone who goes to their local shop and buys one length, comes out with a pack of joiners, maybe even both types.

 

 

Kevin Martin

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...and of course, if you don't like them, and don't need them, then no one is forcing you to put them on.

 

Like set track and insulated frogs, they are there for those who choose or need them. Those that have "grown out of them" can direct their budget elsewhere.

 

Surely that's a win-win?

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I'm just surprised that continuous welded rail hasn't been mentioned-it is accurate without having to worry about looks (much), and has good electrical conductivity :D

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Guest Natalie Graham

I thought fishplates were something to do with the dining car!

 

They are essential, they stop the vinegar staining the tablecloths. ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm just surprised that continuous welded rail hasn't been mentioned-it is accurate without having to worry about looks (much), and has good electrical conductivity :D

 

Thats all well and good if your planning on modeling an unbroken section of Main line, but if you want to model a siding or a yard of any sort you run into the same problem. What about this as an alternative; a small length of thin but strong plate about the wight of single rail, 00 or 0, at the end of a length of track, extending about 6MM, that fits into a small slot under the rail of the next length. So that when both lengths are fitted together the plate is more or less hidden by the Rail above, the track can then be glued down.

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In 4 mm scale (00, EM & P4) Exactoscale now do both cast and plastic fishplates. I am now using the plastic versions to join the track pannels and using Colin Waites etched fishplates where I put a notch(s) in a length of rail to represent track pannels.

 

Providing the track will be attached to the trackbed the plastic ones have enough strength to hold the rails in line and at £3 for a pack of 48 super value, the cast metal ones are very expensive and as I will be using droppers plastic is fine. I am using it on code 75 bullhead rail, though for 0 16.5. Up close they look much better than rail joiners, from a distance once painted and weathered perhapps invisable

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