Comet LMS Suburban bk third

[Michael Delamar]

thanks Larry, ill change the battery box its a bit wonky too, I couldnt work out how it went, same with the smaller box the other side which im still to do.

 

was the grey common?

[coachmann]

The grey 'slate' panels were common on ex LMS stock up to at least 1960 when they seemed to drop out of favour on repaints.

[Michael Delamar]

thanks again Larry, so if its getting painted Crimson it would be best to do the grey.

 

Ive got the paint from Halfords, went for Vauxhall Crimson red.

[Mallard60022]

MIke do you mean the long step-board all the way along the sole-bar? If so does this help? I know it's only an example of a short board but the method is the same.

 

Holes drilled in the sole-bar at appropriate points, (0.45mm or 0.50mm 'L' shaped wire soldered in holes and trimmed) to support long piece of 'scrap' etch at the appropriate height (ascertained from pics).

If using the excellent Comet method as above it is (sorry) easier to prep/drill whilst the sole-bar is still in the etch.

If this isn't what you meant then ignore

Larry probably has a neater method?

Cheers, Phil R.

Edited July 6, 2012 by Mallard60022

[Michael Delamar]

yes thats the one thank you it does help, so in the middle, ill solder it right along, I didnt know if there was a gap between the board and coach.

[Mallard60022]

There might have been a gap in reality, however I've no idea and I've always just soldered the things flush to the bar.

Your picture in that book indicates the position quite well. Also great that we have Larry to point out all the positions of stuff; good job he doesn't see too much of my stuff and even when he has he has been too polite to 'correct' unless it has been a glaring mistake!

If you need any print stuff just let me know.

P

[coachmann]

Concerning footboards, I have my own etchings. I also have standard LMS solebars (22thou) with rivet detail (plain ones for corridor stock and ready slotted for non-corridor stock etc as shown below). When I'm building a coach using another manufacturers coach sides I simply cut footboards to the required length, mark off the 'leg holes' onto the solebar and drill holes. Sorry but I do not retail them, but 247 Developments sell plain sets (no detail) for LMS and LNWR coaches....

[Michael Delamar]

there was a spare chassis width strip in the kit, maybe it is intended for the footboard im not sure, in the instructions it says make some from scrap, anyway ive soldered it on all along, tinning it with the normal iron then attaching it with the RSU. not sure if its 100% prototypical, its not very neat but it is pretty straight and solid,anyway its a quick job and looks alright in the flesh, as my dad always said, you wont see it when its running round

also repositioned the battery box

 

next time I would do the footboard first when doing the chassis, something else learned.

 

Edited July 6, 2012 by michael delamar

[Michael Delamar]

just seen this from Robert Carroll

 

D5075_Bushey_1713-Euston-Bletchley_10-8-63 by robertcwp, on Flickr

[coachmann]

That image shows the final form of lining I described earlier. Previously it had only been applied to LMR push-pull fitted coaches.

[Michael Delamar]

couple of shots of it on Dolgellau, had a test run and ran well. also gave it a good run fast on the club test track,

we where debating on painting the grey panels, I want to do them but he wasnt too convinced but we talked him into it.

will mask them off and leave the grey primer.

its had the roof vents fitted and the roof primered after lots of buffing down.

not too sure if the little auxilery box is fitted the right way round but it was starting to melt so I just stuck it on.

 

think its ready for paint now, just the handrails on the ends, and the bar that goes along the end from cantrail to cantrail which Im not sure what they are.

 

 

[Michael Delamar]

stuck

 

just doing the ends, ive got a picture of the plain end of a similar coach in the Jenkinson Essery book, Ive done the horizontal bar that goes from cantrail to cantrail and also the vertical one which attaches to it.

 

what I need to know is whether the other end with the window matches?

 

also thinking on doing the 2 vertical strips on the ends which I think are part of the structure. but I cant be sure they had them as some did and some didnt.

[Gordon A]

Are the horizontal and vertical bars on the end part of the emergency operating gear that destroys the vacum in the braking system when a passenger pulls the emergency chain inside. If so the bars had a flat indicators at the ends that lay horizontal when in the normal position, and vertical when operated by a passenger. The indicator could then be seen by the guard identifing which coach, by looking along the train.

 

Gordon A

Bristol

[coachmann]

The little horizontal bar on the end is the emergency apparatus and is on one end only (never the brake end). When the emergency chord is pulled it turns the horizontal bar on the coach end, which is geared to the verticle bar that in turn allows air to access the vacuum pipe to apply the brakes.

[Michael Delamar]

thats the one Gordon, what I need to know did they have them at both ends or just the one?

[Michael Delamar]

brilliant, thanks Coach.

 

now just the 2 vertical ribs, I can do them with some very fine plasticard, but I dont know if this coach d1964 had them or if they where a flush end.

[Michael Delamar]

I left them off, here it is with a few coats of Halfords vauxhall carmine red, colour looks a lot nicer in real life although it could do with a light polish with t-cut or similar

 

.

[Mallard60022]

Now that's looking really, really good. I predict that you will now become an etched coach building addict. Excellent.

P

[Michael Delamar]

cheers, there is lots of things Ive learned and would do different next time.

nice to practice on someone else's, you take care a bit more.

[Michael Delamar]

and now the black..

 

[Michael Delamar]

just putting the glazing in, for this Im cutting a strip of 020 plastic, I was tempted to try 040 to help with glare, but I dont think the seats would then fit in. the thinner plastic also means you can get away with one long strip along the coach, its nice and easy to cut with a pair of scissors and has backing either side so that it isnt scratched, then a blob of canopy glue applied straight from the tube to the inside of the coach at each thick pillar, held in with clothes pegs until its dry, for a metal coach I would probably suggest a cloth against the coach side when doing this so it doesnt get scratched or just take extra care.

 

[Michael Delamar]

its getting there..

 

since last night it has had the paint scraped off the handrails to reveal the brass, brass door handles fitted (not sure how long they are going to last)

it has been t-cut and waxed, then the hinges door stops and door gaps given a touch up of a brown/black weathering mix to highlight them.

bogies painted black but still not finished, roof weathered. and guard and weight decals added, im not sure where the M number should go the one in the book doesnt have any.

 

roof is only just placed on for these shots, wrong way round too ive just noticed, still has the cream and wood interior to paint and a few other jobs.

 

[Mike G]

Michael

 

With everything painted, I'm interested as to how you're going to secure the roof? Like the way you've caught the door breaks.

 

Mike

[Michael Delamar]

Hi Mike, it will be stuck on with Evo stick and held in place with rubber bands and blocks of polystyrene until it dries.

Edited July 9, 2012 by michael delamar

[90164]

Coach numbers would be at the right hand end. Pre-nationalisation coaches had regional letters at both beginning and end, so yours would be M xxxxx M.