Spratt and Winkle couplings

[blueeighties]

Tonight, I have been mainly...messing around with Spratt and Winkle couplings I have built a one up, but I really haven't a clue if its right, or how it works.

I could really do with some decent pictures of assembled units as I am not sure if I have constructed this correctly. Can anyone with any experience of these items offer any advice?

 

Regards,

 

Lee.

 

 

[jwealleans]

This is one from my WB thread.

 

 

Looking at yours, I'd have said the goalpost is too deep; the hook should rest against it with the crossbar in that little dip just behind the head of the hook.

 

Here's another I've just found;

 

 

I don't have one from underneath, but this is what they look like when set up for use. The goalpost is on a line with the centre of the buffers and about in line with them. The hook rests such that the point of the hook is slightly below the goalpost, so that when it meets another one it pushes down and then engages. It's a good idea to make a jig to set them up - they must be consistent to work properly. Looking at yours, I think your hook may be too high and those bent wire ends on top may interfere when you attach it. The chap who does all ours uses two lace pins to suspend the hook, which gives separate height adjustment each side.

 

Here are a couple of pictures I took of Derek's jig at Tolworth last year. You can see he has a goalpost set up at one end to check height and a magnet at the other to ensure that the rocker works and the hook both drops fully and returns to the correct height when it moves away from the magnet.

 

 

[blueeighties]

Morning Jonathan, thank you for taking the time to provide a very useful reply. Your pictures explain a few things I couldn't work out from the instructions.

The 'goalpost' looks longer than yours I think, because I have purchased 4mm mounting plates, to ensure negotiation of tighter curves. The bar when placed under the vehicle looks correct in relation to the buffers. I see what you mean about the placement of the hook in relation to the bar though.

 

Thanks again.

 

Lee.

[Andy C]

Lee, its diffcult to tell from your photo but it looks like the "staple" which holds the hook and paddle to the mounting plate may not be deep enough to allow it to pivot very freely.

 

I jig build S and W couplings in batches - the jig is literally a piece of wood with various saw cuts at the right distances to endue the goal poast and the staple are uniform every time, then another to ensure the goal post at the right depth. I dont bother with the staple as I knoe exact where Im making the bends on the ends of my pliers to ensure the right depth to enable the paddle to swing freely.

[blueeighties]

Thanks Andy. The paddle does have some movement, can I ask how much space you need to leave between the mounting paddle surface and the bent over ends of the staple that secure it in place?

I appreciate once I get to grips with this I will need to construct a jig to ensure consistency.

Another question if I may. Once the unit is installed on the vehicle, should the paddle be the closest thing to the track, or is it mounted above the fixing plate?

 

Lee.

[jwealleans]

The paddle hangs below the fixing plate so it can rock. If you look at the first picture I posted you can see where the two pinheads stick out underneath the cradle which holds the paddle. From memory it's positioned about 2mm below the cradle.

[Andy C]

Jonathom is bang on there 2-3 mm drop on the staple at most - looking at the photo again of your first, the paddle is the wrong way up! - the staple bit hangs down below the vehicle so you need to have the paddle the other way round so the hook is facing upwards and can engage on the next vehicle. You need to make sure the paddle clears the axle as well, some of my vehicles are shorter between the headstock and the axle centreline so it can interfere, but a judicial bend cures that! - I post some pics later of my stuff but at the moment engaged upon domestic duties ie bacon sarnie time.

[blueeighties]

Hi guys, after all of these tips, I am trying again, as the first attempt was a bit wrong.

Another question....does anyone make their own 3 links up, and if so, what do you use as a former to bend them? The only thing I can think of to try is some plasticard filed down to an appropriate shape.

 

Lee.

[jcm@gwr]

Hi Lee,

I wouldn't recommend using plasticard, it's a bit too soft.

I use an offcut of aluminium I had, I also don't like the

wire that is supplied now, [it's a bit thin].

You might be lucky if you have old stock, but I now use

florist's wire. The reason being that if the wire is too thin

you need a more powerful magnet or you have to be very

careful lining up the wagons.

BTW I also use jigs for the loops and staples, a block of

plasticard and marks on pliers, [brass is not a problem on

plasticard, steel is, esp the way that you have cut off the

links]

Good luck, Jeff

[Mikkel]

Lee, FWIW here are a few more photos here of assembled units (but using the 3mm version). Take it with a grain of salt though, as my method is rather primitive!

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/75/entry-1087-sprat-winkle-couplings/

[jwealleans]

Note that Mikkel's single ended couplings have straight hooks. Ours are all double ended and so the hook is bent about 30 degrees right (viewed from above). This prevents them fouling one another when coupling up.

[blueeighties]

Gentlemen, I have a much better understanding of the system now thanks to your excellent comments and photographs. I really appreciate the help. I think I may also order some ready made links to simplify the process.

 

Regards,

 

Lee.

[BG John]

I only got part way with my conversion from 3-link to S&W, but on some of my stock I fixed a straight wire between the buffers, rather than a loop attached to the buffer beam. It's not always easy to do, but where possible it may be less obtrusive.

[blueeighties]

An update to show progress made after all of the advice given today. I had indeed made the 'bar' too long, this one has the correct length. The only other issue I have had is that I have made the coupling links a bit small...they need to be bigger so they are closer to the magnet in the trackbed.

Voila!

 

My 1st test vehicle is a Hornby ballast wagon, these are always getting shunted, so were a good place to start.

 

Unit fitted to the underside.

 

Unit fitted from topside.

 

Now then, here's the clever bit. In this view, you can see the 3 link coupling, being pulled towards the magnet set between the tracks. The coupling bar is still level, and will be attached to the next wagon.

 

In this view, the 3 link is right over the magnet, and you can now see the coupling bar pulled down, uncoupling the wagon. At this point the rake would be reversed a bit more, and then the loco can stop, change direction, and move off. How cool is that? Total hands free operation!

 

They have been a bit fiddly to construct, and I still have to construct a couple more to see how they work together, and of course they need painting to hide them. Something else I have discovered is that I have made the links of the couplings a bit small...they need to be closer to the magnet to work 100%. Ill make them an extra couple of mil bigger on the next batch. Another little task under the Annitsford workbelt.

[sixteen 12by 10s]

Hi looks good

i have been using these for years, a bit of advise, polish the front leading edge of the hook and keep the backs of the goal post wires smooth and free from paint.

 

 

Gary

[blueeighties]

More top tips, thank you very much!

 

Lee.

[jcm@gwr]

Hi Lee,

A couple more things;

firstly, I would put a bit more of a bend on the hook shaft [so the 'paddle'

hangs down more]

secondly, if you add some solder to the writing on the paddle [ie more

weight] you will have a more positive return [coupling] action.

Finally, you either want chemically blacken the assy., or you could use

a black permenant marker pen, this improves the look no end. In fact,

it becomes almost invisible!

Keep up the good work, Jeff

[Guest Dave.C]

Finally, you either want chemically blacken the assy., or you could use

a black permenant marker pen, this improves the look no end.

I have found that using a marker before assembly is far easier than trying to colour the hook once fitted.

[Il Grifone]

3 link couplings are 10" inside when new. I make mine 4mm to give a little more room for coupling and sharp curves. As a former, I use two pieces of 2mm rod fastened together. These are for working 3 links, S & W are going to need shorter links to not foul the track - possibly 1.5mm? At a push, the shanks of drill bits can be used, with the advantage of a wide choice of diameters.

 

I make mine from bare copper wire, which oxidises to a nice rusty colour, without needing paint which could clog them up or nasty blackening chemicals. For magnetic coupling/uncoupling. the last link needs to be iron wire of course.