Havenhouse - the reboot

[Alister_G]

Blimey Jason, you do crack on with things, don't you!

 

The coach parts look brilliant, they've turned out really well, and the way you've made the different layers should mean construction will be relatively easy. You'll just have to be very aware of the warping problem.

 

I agree with Andy G abut the way to form the tumblehome, however, just a word of caution: make sure that in the backing layer you make a few holes into the void where the curve of the tumblehome is, so that whilst it dries the gases released during the curing process don't cause problems. A 6mm hole on the inside every 10mm or so should do it, and won't be visible on the finished model.

 

Excellent work, as always, mate, can't wait to see how it turns out.

 

Al.

[ess1uk]

I'm in awe.

Superb stuff.

I hadn't realised why the railing were at a strange angle until reading this then it makes sense that the footbridge would have been there.

There are some nice pictures in the signal box of the station that I must try to take photos of when next there with work.

[uax6]

Oh, I see, this?

 

side 2.jpg

 

There would be an air pocket and the red sheet would effectively glued to the floor at its lower edge. That certainly looks easier!

Yes thats it. You will need a couple of holes in the backing to let the solvent escape mind....

 

Andy G

[uax6]

Thinking again on the window holding in method. If the roof will be removable, make the green outside layer go up to cantrail height, but make sure the windows are cut much larger in it. The you can just add some small strips that slightly overlap the edge of this. Then the window strip will just slide in from the top, which means that you can re-paint the coach and remove the glass! The droplights might be a bit tricky like this mind, but they would be part of this outer green layer wouldn't they? So they would have to have a little frame stuck to the inside of that layer.

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Blimey Jason, you do crack on with things, don't you!

I have to, I'm on borrowed time as once I get to Christmas this will all have to stop for the winter season. Then I'll be reduced to reading up about everyone else's work"

 

Excellent work, as always, mate, can't wait to see how it turns out.

I'm as much in the dark as you at the moment! Fingers crossed

 

For anyone interested,I found some plastic sheet that was ridiculously cheap. Look for the bulk packs at the bottom of the page. I'm hoping this isn't a typo . If it's true then it might even be worth importing it into the UK!

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/41387-bargain-hunters/?p=1228298 or you can use the direct link http://www.dollhousesupplies.com/hobby-supplies/plastic-styrene-sheet-stripstock-1.html?p=2 - scroll to the bottom. If it's not there keep paging through.

Edited November 16, 2013 by JCL

[JCL]

I've put together a test side using the diagram in post 353 and it seems to do the trick. Before I do it for real I think I'll lightly chamfer the bottom edge of the backing so that don't put a crease in the panelling layer. Doing the test has also made me realise that I need to go over the scored lines for the beading before gluing up.

 

Here's a photo of the test side. It's a bit rough and ready because it was a miss-cut, and I haven't got the beading technique right yet. The beading by the way is .020" rod that I've sanded - mainly because I couldn't get any of the .010" stuff. I've done a couple of sections, but I'm wondering whether I should just do all the verticals first, then cut where the horizontals will need to pass through, then glue them down afterwards. I think it'll look neater. Obviously the beading will go on after it's been glued up!

 

[uax6]

For your round beading I would be tempted to do the longest runs as one piece, as they will show up more if they aren't in line. Then add the others in. Can you put a 45* cut at each end of the short length to get it to mate up properly? You'll probably find that when the solvent is applied the small gap will disappear.

 

It might be worth trying to get some 10 thou rod for your proper go, as I think that this beading is actually rounded in real life, and by sanding you will make it appear wider and flatter than it should be.

 

I must say that it does look the dogs dodars BTW!

 

Andy G

[t-b-g]

A little hint for the beading on the lower sides, in case you hadn't considered it!

 

Try to scribe a groove first (or perhaps your cutter will allow you to do a shallow cut). It is so much easier to keep the beading straight laying it in a slight depression. I would get hold of some 10 thou if I was you. I have used both and the 10 thou looks miles better. I use the Slaters stuff because being red it shows up against the white background and it is easier to spot mistakes. I have never worked out whether it is best to do the horizontals or verticals first but I always do the box round the outside and then cut the centre horizontal to fit afterwards.

 

That is some seriously nice work going on there and I look forward to seeing the finished results. 

 

Proper modelling I calls it!

 

At the risk of intruding on your lovely thread, I am attaching a photo of an MS&LR 4 wheeled carriage to illustrate what I mean.

 

This originally had 20 thou lower beading but it looked way too heavy so I took it off and replaced it with 10 thou.

 

 

Tony

Edited November 16, 2013 by t-b-g

[Alister_G]

As a first go that's pretty darn good.

 

I agree with you that a slight chamfer would make the transition less abrupt, but I have to say that it's a very minor thing, and the overall effect is excellent.

 

I'm not sure about Andy's suggestion of using round rod - not that I necessarily disagree with it, I'm just not able to visualise how it would look.

 

Coming on a treat!

 

Al.

[uax6]

Tony,

 

what scale is that coach? I love the use of round rod for the bolections, it looks very effective, I might have to try it. How do you get that lovely curve in it?

 

Andy G

[t-b-g]

Tony,

 

what scale is that coach? I love the use of round rod for the bolections, it looks very effective, I might have to try it. How do you get that lovely curve in it?

 

Andy G

 

Hello Andy,

 

Thanks for the kind words.

 

It is one of a very small number of scratchbuilt vehicles I have built in 4mm scale (EM Gauge). This particular one is a model of one that lasted well into the 1960s as an S & T Departmental vehicle.

 

I should do more as I really enjoy scratchbuilding.

 

The window bolection mouldings were made from 20 thou round rod, built up in sections. I found it very difficult to get two curves in the right places so I bent a 90 degree angle, just using fine pointed round nosed pliers and then cut the lengths to fit afterwards.

 

As it happens I took a stage by stage photo of the windows as I was writing an article on the construction for MRJ and I took photos as I went along.

 

I hope this explains it.

Regards

 

Tony

Edited November 16, 2013 by t-b-g

[uax6]

I take it that you shape then afterwards so that the inside is a flat chamfer?

 

Amazing work, I must try harder!

 

Andy G

[t-b-g]

I take it that you shape then afterwards so that the inside is a flat chamfer?

 

Amazing work, I must try harder!

 

Andy G

 

I forgot to include that bit in the sequence shot! I just scrape it with a scalpel blade to create a slight chamfer.

 

I feel the same about trying harder. I look at the photos and just see the slight gaps and inconsistencies here and there! A coat of paint hides much and the photo is quite a bit larger than real life. At least that is my excuse!

 

It comes from seeing the work of the master of plasticard modelling, Geoff Kent, at close quarters. Sometimes he inspires me and sometimes I just have to accept that I will never ever be that good!

 

This is what it looked like after a coat of mucky black. I can't seem to find the photos of it lettered at the moment.

 

Tony 

Edited November 17, 2013 by t-b-g

[uax6]

Tony,

 

That is a lovely looking coach, and I would be dead proud of it! Shame about the black paint, I'm sure it would look lovely in a proper colour!

 

Do you take slight liberties with the size of the panel inbetween the windows so that the bolection fits with the window being the correct size, or do you use some other black magic??

 

Andy g

[JCL]

Andy, you took the words right out of my mouth! Thanks for posting your work on here, it really is amazing, and thanks for the helps as well. I will definitely be looking into getting some .010" rod when I drive over to Vancouver as there seem to be a few model shops between here and there.

 

The cutter can do a shallow cut, but the knife is so thin that you have to go over the cut with the back of a scalpel or similar. Some people have had a go at hacking at an old knife and converting it into a scribing tool. Without it the scored line can be "dirtied up a bit" and provide an indication of where to scribe - basically it takes the place of the pencil lines. I will do the back of a scalpel thing with my next test to see how I get on.

 

In the meantime, as I don't have any rod, and as this is partly a test of the cutter (as well as hopefully putting together a coach that I can be pleased with), I had a go at cutting out the beading.The top beading is .9mm thick, while the bottom beading is supposed to be .5mm thick. Both are on .010" card The line in the middle is some of the .020" rod. Each set of beading is joined to the next at top middle and bottom, and the thick section is to try to keep everything as square as possible. Of course, what I should have done is to have the bottom tabs line up with the sections I'd be cutting away anyway. Frankly I was surprised the beading came out at all. Of course, I still have to do something with it!

 

[JCL]

One of the reasons why I was inside most of yesterday with the heating up. The weather forecast got it wrong; they said 2cm, we had about 20cm in the end.

 

[Alister_G]

That's looking good!

 

It's amazing to me that you can accurately cut such fine details using the plotter / cutter.

 

Al

[Alister_G]

Doh, crossed posts.

 

The snow's looking good as well

[t-b-g]

Andy, you took the words right out of my mouth! Thanks for posting your work on here, it really is amazing, and thanks for the helps as well. I will definitely be looking into getting some .010" rod when I drive over to Vancouver as there seem to be a few model shops between here and there.

 

The cutter can do a shallow cut, but the knife is so thin that you have to go over the cut with the back of a scalpel or similar. Some people have had a go at hacking at an old knife and converting it into a scribing tool. Without it the scored line can be "dirtied up a bit" and provide an indication of where to scribe - basically it takes the place of the pencil lines. I will do the back of a scalpel thing with my next test to see how I get on.

 

In the meantime, as I don't have any rod, and as this is partly a test of the cutter (as well as hopefully putting together a coach that I can be pleased with), I had a go at cutting out the beading.The top beading is .9mm thick, while the bottom beading is supposed to be .5mm thick. Both are on .010" card The line in the middle is some of the .020" rod. Each set of beading is joined to the next at top middle and bottom, and the thick section is to try to keep everything as square as possible. Of course, what I should have done is to have the bottom tabs line up with the sections I'd be cutting away anyway. Frankly I was surprised the beading came out at all. Of course, I still have to do something with it!

 

photo.PNG

 

Very clever! Have you explored the limits of just how thin you can get a bit of plastic with the cutter? Is the limit the settings on the machine or the strength of the plastic, which will probably wave about and break below a certain size?

 

To make the grooves I use a scraperboard knife, which is just a handle with a diamond shaped blade, available from most good art suppliers. It is used for making those foil pictures. Recently I purchased an OLFA cutter and that does the job too. Either will make a nice even groove with little or no burr to clean up.

 

Tony

[t-b-g]

Tony,

 

That is a lovely looking coach, and I would be dead proud of it! Shame about the black paint, I'm sure it would look lovely in a proper colour!

 

Do you take slight liberties with the size of the panel inbetween the windows so that the bolection fits with the window being the correct size, or do you use some other black magic??

 

Andy g

 

Luckily, the real vehicle was measured and drawn in the 1960s and the dimensions are based on that drawing. I drew out the side on some plasticard and worked from that. The bolections were shown on the drawing so I didn't have to do anything other than follow that for sizes. The windows in what were the 3rd Class compartments look tiny and I did wonder just how good the drawing was but when you look at the real thing, they really were that small.

 

You are right about the colour though! The real vehicle was saved for preservation and is now at the KWVR as part of the Vintage Carriage Trust collection. It is their MS&LR Tri Composite and it looks superb. My only excuse is that it wasn't for one of my own layouts otherwise it would have been in GCR livery.

 

Tony

[westerhamstation]

One of the reasons why I was inside most of yesterday with the heating up. The weather forecast got it wrong; they said 2cm, we had about 20cm in the end.

 

_JCL2685.jpg _JCL2705.jpg

 

One of the reasons why I was inside most of yesterday with the heating up. The weather forecast got it wrong; they said 2cm, we had about 20cm in the end.

 

_JCL2685.jpg _JCL2705.jpg

 

One of the reasons why I was inside most of yesterday with the heating up. The weather forecast got it wrong; they said 2cm, we had about 20cm in the end.

 

_JCL2685.jpg _JCL2705.jpg

Hi Jason, Great modelling on the house, and the dog looks really good, How do you get the snow effect is it weathering powders or talc :no:

[JCL]

Hi Tony & Al

 

I think the limit is a combination of the strength of the plastic, the tackiness of the mat (I'm having to get underneath the cut outs with a Stanley blade), the sharpness if the knife, and finally, the cutting method I'm using. The software allows you to create lines, rectangles, circles, etc. if you use the rectangle tool to create a rectangle, the knife stays in the material as it moves around the corner from one side of the shape to the next. If you create a rectangle using four independent lines, the cutter rises out of the material at the end of each line. This, I think, produces a more accurate cut.

 

To be honest I wasn't at all sure that the beading would come out that thin. And even less sure that I would be able to pop out the inserts, that is, the scrap between the beading. In all I've managed to cut another two sides, these have the frame all the way around them and are much straighter.

 

Hmm, I know the type of scraper you mean. We have a tiny stationers in town that gas some art gear, so I'll try in there first. Failing that, I'm popping down into Montana next week depending on the weather to pick up a parcel. I'll try to pick up a scraper there if town doesn't have one. Thinking about it, I'll also call unto our local hardware store as well.

 

Cheers, Jason

[JCL]

Argh, it's the day for crossed posts! It's grizzly dandruff

[freebs]

Wow Jason. although coaches aren't really my thing, you\re doing amazing things with that cutter! I want one

 

Lee

[JCL]

The cutter is great. What I have to do next is make sure that the post cutting work is up to scratch as well. I'm busy this morning clearing the garage. It's raining so I'm going to put the van into hibernation before it snows again (it's a lot easier with no snow on the van than with 6 inches on the roof that I'd then have to scrape off or it would puddle on the garage floor. Then this afternoon I'll be doing the first two layers on the sides. I want to get this right so it'll be slow going with lots of weights to make sure everything stays flat. The test that I did the other day is making a successful attempt of impersonating a banana.

 

On that, the sides will be 2x.020" glued with tester's plastic cement (methyl ethyl ketone & acetates) with a brush. How long would people recommend that I keep the sides under a press for?

 

Edited November 18, 2013 by JCL