Havenhouse - the reboot

[uax6]

Jason,

 

I have no experience with that stuff I use Plasticweld instead. They way I laminate the sides is to line the top up with the bottom and hold very tightly at one end (Bulldog clip might work!) then hold it in mid air from that end. It will fall a bit at the far side. Now run the solvent along the edges and it should come together and fix. Give it a couple of minutes and then bring it onto a flat surface and just weigh for an hour or so.

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Well, here's a photos of the sides as they are now Two backing layers and the front panelling. On top of them is a metal ruler, then the wood to spread the pressure and a half brindle for a spot of weight.

 

 

I'll come back to it in a couple of hours. Hopefully the basic sides will be done this evening. I'll put up a proper photo when I take everything off.

[JCL]

The sides were briefly exposed, eyes watering under the kitchen lights as I beveled the mitre at the ends ready for gluing up, and glued on the beading.

 

In the end I put a frame around all four sides of the beading

 

 

Then used a paper clip to hold one end (a bit more square than in this photo)

 

 

Before gluing them together. Because of the tabs between each section I only glued the horizontal beading and then a light dab in the middle of the vertical beading. Tomorrow I'll remove the tabs and frame around the outside before finishing gluing in the verticals.

 

Right now they are back under the brick.

 

 

Catch you tomorrow.

[JCL]

One more before I go. This is the side with the beading glued on. I've a bit of fettling to do, but I'm really pleased with this so far, especially as a first go. I've learnt a lot already, thanks everyone. I've a way to go though. Starting with squaring up the window openings. I'm still going to try scoring .010" beading though.

Cheers

Jason

Edited November 19, 2013 by JCL

[Alister_G]

That looks really great, amazing for a first go.

 

The amount of detail you've managed to capture is brilliant.

 

Well done!

 

Al

[uax6]

What a result! That, may I say, is a really good looking side! It makes me want to get going on making some coaches again now, and I've so many half finished loco projects!

 

The texture of the side looks just right.

 

Have you tryed to assemble the ducket yet?

 

Andy G

Edited November 19, 2013 by uax6

[freebs]

I've got a rake of Pullman coaches with no roofs... hmm should I have a go at making my own?.... This is inspirational!

[LNER4479]

Now that's REALLY clever! Intricate though it was, I couldn't make out how the ultra-fine etch was going to work but that last picture explains it perfectly. Presumably you glue then cut through the tabs in a certain order to avoid i) the whole thing falling apart or ii) sticking bits to the sides that aren't supposed to be there(!)

Edited November 20, 2013 by LNER4479

[JCL]

Hi Robert to be honest when I looked at the fret at times I had to keep in my mind which bit I was gluing and which bit I was cutting

 

Just to really show what I did I've put together a diagram as follows:

1. The fret as cut
2. Where I initially glued the fret to the coach side
3. The tabs that were cut, both top and bottom and between the panels
4. I then finished gluing the verticals and anything that was missed to give the result at the bottom.

The dot on the left hand side just a confirmation that I have the fret the right way around on the coach side. While this should be obvious, well, you never know...

 

 

 

 

 

[JCL]

Wow, what happened to the evening? One minute it's 5pm, then suddenly it 10pm. On the other hand, I'm a lot further on than I was as I've got the body shell finished and "only" the roof and details to do! There's been a lot of starts and false starts this evening, but as they say, the first one is always the slowest. I'm really pleased with how it's turned out so far. Of course the chassis lets it down! I hadn't realised it was so high for a start! This was just a fun thing to do and hang the chassis, but I've a feeling that this coach needs a proper chassis underneath it now as I don't want to do half a job. More research, hooray! (On that, any pointers are very welcome)

 

Anyway, as always, photos.

 

 

Oh, the duckets. Well, apart from giving myself no ability at all to glaze them (doh!), they weren't too bad. Basically I cut slots into the top layer of the slides and slid the ducket sides into them, making sure they were square and the same height. Then I cut some .060" x .080" plastic strip the length of which fit between the sides below the windows, and some .020" above them (due to lack of space) to keep everything solid. The panneling on the ducket is just scored in to keep the number of layers down to one. This was then curled between my fingers and thumbnail to form an S shape before gluing it down. The panelling was drawn to size on the computer based on the length of the ducket edge (if you see what I mean).

 

I'm really hoping that I have the duckets on at the right end. If I haven't, don't tell me as it's too late now!

 

Seriously, how do you put together a 6 wheel chassis with no brass experience??

Edited November 20, 2013 by JCL

[Ian Smeeton]

Don't know about a chassis, but for glazing the duckets, how about some Micro-Sol Krystal Klear. No personal experience of it, but I saw it being used to good effect in a recent thread.

 

If I can remember where it was, I'll  put in a link.

 

Regards

 

Ian

 

PS, seriously nice work!

[JCL]

Fantastic Ian, I completely forgot about that stuff. I'll be at a model shop next week so I'll see if they have some.

 

Cheers

 

Jason

 

Edited to remove auto correct...

Edited November 20, 2013 by JCL

[Alister_G]

Jason, that's looking excellent, really, really good.

 

I get what you're saying about the chassis - here's a radical thought - can't you build one?

 

I mean, cut it out and laminate layers together to form it?

 

This may be a chassis too far but just a thought.

 

Al

[jrg1]

An excellent job.  If you are going to build a six-wheel chassis, I suggest a bogie plus half bogie arrangement to prevent the derailments these vehicles are prone to on sharp curves.

[t-b-g]

Looking very nice indeed!

 

For the underframe, it is certainly worth doing a new one as the GNR pattern underframe was quite distinctive.

 

I can thoroughly recommend the 6 wheeled underframe from Brassmasters. It runs really well and has outside pin point bearings.

 

There is a 4mm scale drawing in Campling/Jenkinson Historic Carriage drawings book or there was an article in Model Railway Journal by Nick Campling but I can't recall which issue it is in.

 

For the ducket, is there any mileage in cutting one from clear plastic sheet then doing a panelling overlay? Just an idea thrown into the pot!

 

Tony

[uax6]

The 6 wheel underframe can be quite easy. Fixed w irons with the center wheelsets floating on a tube on the axle. Or you can build a bogie one end and fixed the other. This may have more advantages as you can put more slop on the bogie so that it can go over hills.

Cutting the solebars should be easy on the machine, and you can cut out the w-irons too. Fit something like the MR axleboxes shown here:

http://www.wizardmodels.co.uk/images/51lcomp/phsmrc008.jpg

http://www.wizardmodels.co.uk/images/51lcomp/phsmrc007.jpg

 

Use the long J hangers on the centre w iron, and the short ones on the outer ones.

 

The bogie could be a very basic brass construction, two tubes that fit inside the wheels (which the axle passes through) then solder a flat strip (that you shape to a n shape the length of the wheelbase) to the centre of the tubes. Drill a hole in the strip for a pivot. You can make it slightly off centre so that it steers a tad too. Make sure that the bogie and the fixed axle are the same height (or make the bogie slightly lower so you can add some packing to get it spot on) and job is done. 

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Thanks everyone. There are a lot of ideas there. I have the underframe details in the plans I'm looking at, so I'm going to give it a go.

 

I was looking for the Cleminson 6 wheel underframe without knowing what it was called (I ended up on google looking at lots of pictures of buses - 6 wheel chassis you see). I know I said not brass, but in for a penny, in for £9, I'm going to order one and see how I get on.

 

I'm going to use formers for the roof with strip stretchers going across them (no balsa here and I'm not good at shaping it). I saw somewhere a roof being made with tissue paper glued on it to look like canvas, but I can't remember the scale - a test piece needed I think. I wonder if that would work.

 

In the meantime, (paying) guests today, so I'm Mrs Mop, tomorrow I'll start testing the painting method that I linked to a few posts ago.

[freebs]

Superb. That is all.

[JCL]

I was saying earlier I'd been looking at Mike Trice's thread about painting teak, so I thought, unless this is going to be a ghost train I'm going to have to give it a go (it'll be easier to slop paint about now than when the roof goes on!), so here goes.

 

This is a spare side that I cut out last night and glued down onto a sheet of plastic just to have a go at it. We don't have a Halfords around here, so I've ended up spraying it with Krylon white for plastic and then Krylon Matte finish to make sure that there's something for the colour to grip on to. Mike's recommendation is for Vallejo Model Color light orange, and would you believe that the store in Lethbridge I visited a while ago carried the stuff? I realise I've cross posted on the other thread, but here's the photo for completeness sake on here as well.

 

 

The email is in to Brassmasters, so hopefully they'll get it. I also have some 4-wheel Ratio chassis coming over courtesy of a friend, so I'll have a go at one of those as well. Apparently as I'm in Canada I can use Brassmaster's Paypal facility, which is a lot easier than sending trans-Atlantic cheques!

[uax6]

That side already looks teak, what an amazing colour! If only i could find somewhere that will stock it, I can't even find an internet site that has it! My LNER stock all needs this treatment, so it's interesting to see another persons attempt!

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Have a chat with Mike Trice mister. Here's his thread: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/75178-reproducing-varnished-teak-improving-latest-Hornby-thompsons/page-4

 

After this it's a "scumbling" of Burnt Umber oil paint (laced with liquin). His thread is amazing.

Edited November 22, 2013 by JCL

[JCL]

Right then, I overdid the burnt umber a bit, but I think it looks ok.

 

[Alister_G]

That's looking pretty good.

 

Did you do all your brush strokes down the panels, I think this gives the wood grain effect?

 

Al.

[JCL]

The brush strokes were down on the upper half, across on the lower half, but I'm not too happy about the lower half, so I think I'll have ago at the right hand tomorrow if I get a chance. It's not an easy one! Hmm, should've gone Southern - maybe not

[westerhamstation]

Hi Jason, It's coming on a treat, scumbling is an art form all to itself, Tricky to replicate full size, let alone in minature. Here is a link to a site which may give you a interesting bedtime read.

http://www.ecollege.ie/site/liu/Paint_Decorating/M3U4.pdf

      I really think this is going to look great when it's done, and yes you should have gone Southern   Regards Adrian