RMweb Premium uax6 Posted March 21, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 21, 2014 You don't need a book on scratchbuilding anything out of styrene, you seem to know instinctively what to do! BTW have you fitted brake cylinders to the barnum? The lever coming off the v-hangers looks odd, is itpart of the v-hanger? Andy G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rail-Online Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 It seems that three different D3s were stationed in Wainfleet for along time until Wainfleet's engine shed was closed. They were rotated every few days because they had to be regularly cleaned out; the water available was very poor. This was an issue across the area - Mablethorpe water was also a serious issue, Boston not quite so much, but hardly ideal. The D3s took over from a cavalcade of small locos, starting with smal 2-2-2T machines, used because of a lack of turning facilities, ending with the Small Hawthornes. The D3s were to be found all over Lincolnshire, with at least one shedded in Louth, and eight at one point in Boston.................................................. and I'll have to have a search for a diagram somewhere. Here's a photo of what I'm looking at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/blue-diesels/5539775596/ 4mm Drawings for D3's are available from Isinglass models http://www.isinglass-models.co.uk/index.html Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmsforever Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 In the April issue of Back Track railway magazine on page 252 there is a very interesting article about Wainfleet which you would find interesting hope you will be able to accses this issue.The website is www.pendragonpublishing.co.uk hope this is of help. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 21, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2014 You don't need a book on scratchbuilding anything out of styrene, you seem to know instinctively what to do! BTW have you fitted brake cylinders to the barnum? The lever coming off the v-hangers looks odd, is itpart of the v-hanger? Andy G Yep, ones fitted, but maybe I need to look at alignment. Thanks Tony, I've just had a look and there seems to be a couple of different plans, so I'll hang on until the book turns up to make sure I get the right one. And finally, after me harping on about spring being around the corner, we had 2ft of snow yesterday! If nothing else, my dog's loving it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Out of interest, are there any books about scratch building locos in styrene? Not that I'm thinking about doing one any time soon,......./ No books as far as I'm aware but there have been a few articles down the years. I remember a rather good model of Fury, the LMS High Pressure loco, in the RM in the early 1980s. I was also wondering if the Silhouette could be used to build Plasticard locos. Curved splashers with beading would be a doodle, for example. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 21, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2014 Curved splashers with beading would be a doodle, for example. Absolutely, and those splashers with the cutouts on the Stirling Singles should come out pretty well. In the April issue of Back Track railway magazine on page 252 there is a very interesting article about Wainfleet which you would find interesting hope you will be able to accses this issue.The website is www.pendragonpublishing.co.uk hope this is of help. Thank you! What are the chances? Unfortunately, although I should be able to get it digitally, it seems there's a problem with paying for it, so I'll try again later. Hopefully there might be a photo or two that I've not seen before, and the "day in the life" article would be interesting to read. A.J.Ludlum, I think is the author of a book I have about Wainfleet, I wonder if I can contact him. I'll get in touch with the mag, it's worth a try. That stream of consciousness was brought to you by a lack of coffee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted March 21, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 21, 2014 I've got that issue from Dad at the minute and i thought of you straight away, I'll get it sorted for you in the next couple of days..... Andy G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 21, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2014 so this coach is a huge learning process, but I'm getting there. Another thing that I've learned this morning is that I need to offer a ruler up to the ends and the inner ends to make sure that they are all absolutely the same width (taking into account the width of the sides) before gluing everything up and painting it. I've just spent half an hour prying off the sides with a knife, filing them down and regluing them. Done now, so I can keep moving forward with it Tell you what, you can certainly see the matchboarding on this photo! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrg Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Out of interest, are there any books about scratch building locos in styrene? Not that I'm thinking about doing one any time soon, but I'll be going on holiday in a few weeks, and I'm daydreaming about maybe scratch building or boding a D3 so I'll be after something to read. It seems that three different D3s were stationed in Wainfleet for along time until Wainfleet's engine shed was closed. They were rotated every few days because they had to be regularly cleaned out; the water available was very poor. This was an issue across the area - Mablethorpe water was also a serious issue, Boston not quite so much, but hardly ideal. The D3s took over from a cavalcade of small locos, starting with smal 2-2-2T machines, used because of a lack of turning facilities, ending with the Small Hawthornes. The D3s were to be found all over Lincolnshire, with at least one shedded in Louth, and eight at one point in Boston. I definitely want something easier after the Barnum, and this will be the station building and maybe a tourist stock carriage, but maybe I can start knocking together a passable D3 before the end of the year. I'm thinking of doing an Andy G and see if I can find an old chassis as a base. Even if that means compromises I'm not too worried about rounding errors if needs be. I think I'll avoid a brass kit as I think my brain is nearly full from the last few months of constant learning! :-O Anyway, I have the relevant Yeadons on order as a birthday present (it's not happened yet, and if your in town on my birthday I'll buy you a drink - it's the least I can do!) and I'll have to have a search for a diagram somewhere. Here's a photo of what I'm looking at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/blue-diesels/5539775596/ There were various articles in old Railway Modellers based on building locomotives in styrene-especially in the sixties and seventies. Model Railways March 1972 has an extensive article on building an LNER J37, which would be useful for you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 21, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2014 In post 728 I mentioned the cowl around the corridor connection and showed the end plan glued to some foam card. Well I've had a go and it doesn't look too shabby. First of all I cut the four pieces of .010" card to the right width and glued one end. Then I put it into the hole in the foamboard, pushed in the middle and wedged it to the top of the doorway. You'll see that I had bevelled the edges for two reasons - I don't want glue on the foamboard, and I want to be able to get in there with a pointy thing to make sure everything is square. I carefully stroked glue along the top edge, waited for it to dry, pulled the strip out, turned it upsside down, and then glued the other edge. This is the result. Even though I tried to square everything up, I still had to file the edges down a bit. At this point I was able to glue one side to the carriage end and straighten it up as much as possible. Once this was dry, I glued the other side in and manipulated into shape as much as I could. Next I have to put some plasticard strip along the bottom, cut the "legs" off and file them back. Then it's the other end, but that's for tomorrow! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted March 22, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 22, 2014 I know that this is probably no use to you now, but the way i would do it it to make another door in 10thou, laminate it on another sheet of 10thou so its now on a 20thou thickness. The inside of the gangway would be the outer shape of the door, so that you can then stick it inside the cowl, that way the cowl will be held more firmly to shape. Mind you I wouldn't worry about the door on the insdie piece, as I cover the end of the bellows, so that when two coaches are coupled with the gangways touching, they can slide across each other when they go round curves. Mount the bellows on a bit of sponge rubber and allow them to move inside the cowl and they should then allow the gangways to move and not cause the coach to derail. Andy G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 22, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 22, 2014 I know that this is probably no use to you now, but the way i would do it it to make another door in 10thou, laminate it on another sheet of 10thou so its now on a 20thou thickness. The inside of the gangway would be the outer shape of the door, so that you can then stick it inside the cowl, that way the cowl will be held more firmly to shape. Mind you I wouldn't worry about the door on the insdie piece, as I cover the end of the bellows, so that when two coaches are coupled with the gangways touching, they can slide across each other when they go round curves. Mount the bellows on a bit of sponge rubber and allow them to move inside the cowl and they should then allow the gangways to move and not cause the coach to derail. Andy G I did think that, ('corse you did), but I'd come too far along. The floor has gone in now to strengthen it, and it's been reglued onto the end. I've given it a coat of paint and it looks quite cool. I'll do the other later and take a photo, hopefully in natural light. This morning's breakfast is Eggs Benedict, y'all are welcome! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrkirtley800 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 I'll be right over, say 7.am? Derek Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buhar Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Will do Andy! On the limonene front though, I don't seem to be able to buy it in Canada. Limonene is banned in Canada! Something to do with causing respiratory problems! It seems it cannot be imported for delivery to private residences. I don't know if the B&B will count as a business for importing it as a cleaning agent, but you may be able to get someone to help. It is often sold as d-limonene. There appears to be an orange variety (orangina?) but I ghave no idea if it works the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrg Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 I know that this is probably no use to you now, but the way i would do it it to make another door in 10thou, laminate it on another sheet of 10thou so its now on a 20thou thickness. The inside of the gangway would be the outer shape of the door, so that you can then stick it inside the cowl, that way the cowl will be held more firmly to shape. Mind you I wouldn't worry about the door on the insdie piece, as I cover the end of the bellows, so that when two coaches are coupled with the gangways touching, they can slide across each other when they go round curves. Mount the bellows on a bit of sponge rubber and allow them to move inside the cowl and they should then allow the gangways to move and not cause the coach to derail. Andy G Having a telescopic outer and sponge spring inner corridor connection was covered in Model Railways July-September 1973 articles on coach building in plasticard-simple and effective, particularly on tight cirves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 23, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2014 BTW have you fitted brake cylinders to the barnum? The lever coming off the v-hangers looks odd, is itpart of the v-hanger? I meant to say something here, yep, made a mistake based upon using the drawing and not knowing really what the underneath of the coach looks like. I've since seen a photo of the underneath and will be making changes accordingly! :-/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
manna Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 G'Day Gents To drift back to the D3, a chassis that is fairly close, is the Hornby 4-4-0 County (D3 33mm) County 34.5 / 35 mm) I am intending to use one, one day for a D3. manna Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 23, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) Hi Manna, thanks for that, I was hoping someone would take the bait! Limonene is banned in Canada! That's what I was thinking. I'm happy with the MEK, and my dog loves having the back door open, so I think I'll stick with that. I know I'm being needy, but I've a couple of questions about forming roofs in styrene sheet. I've tried butting up against a ruler and using the rounded end of an implement, and using the hot water method, but I've found I'm rubbish at it. I've seen other threads mention different ideas, but here goes: On the boiling water idea, I used duct tape to make sure the styrene was against the rolling pin, but this started coming away. So what type of tape do you use, and how long to you submerge? On the rubbing along the length of the roof using the ruler as a way of forming the curve, how thick is your ruler? How close to the thing do you rub it? How many times do you do each rub each position? You might say, give it a go, you'll get it in the end, but I'm currently frustrated from Tring and any info would be great. Assume I know nothing about bending plastic to form roofs/rooves, and you won't be far wrong! Edited March 23, 2014 by JCL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted March 23, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2014 Hi mister frustrated, Have you tried the "wrap round former and shove in oven" technique? Suitable formers include rolling pins, wine bottles, lumps of scaffold pole - that sort of thing. CAUTION - may lead to burnt hands and funny looks from family members... Al. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted March 23, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) Why not use masking tape and tape it to your rolling pin (cover the whole sheet to the same tightness) and then put in the oven at a low setting and cook? leave it for about 10 mins and the curve should get formed. It works for me! Andy G Oh and do it after you have finished cooking, so you use the waste heat.... and don't flavour the food! (The rayburns oven is perfect, as it is vented into the chimney, so the smell goes up that!) Edited March 23, 2014 by uax6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 23, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2014 Thanks guys, Hmm, the thing curled up instead of down, I'll have another go later. I might use smaller strips until I get it right as this could get expensive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) In answer to your earlier question here is the method using the rounded object. The technique uses a steel ruler and a craft embossing tool. The ruler is 1mm thick and the embossing tool has a 6mm ball end to it, although any suitable rounded tool can be used. I must say the embossing tool is probably the easier option. A piece of 20thou is arranged over the ruler with about a 1mm overlap, then the embossing tool is run along the styrene as close to the ruler as possible using downward pressure. Repeat two or three times. Move the styrene further over the ruler, say another 1mm and repeat. The styrene show here has been moved and curved three times The curve produced against a 5p coin. For those of you who do not have such a coin handy it is approx 17.5mm in diameter. Does that help? Edited March 23, 2014 by MikeTrice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 23, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2014 Yep, I think I wasn't rubbing the sheet close enough to the ruler, so I was creating a wider curve than I needed. I only had a pen end, so I think I need to find something with a smaller globe on it. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 24, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2014 Thankyou everyone for your help. I've managed to get something sorted that resembles a roof, and as a first go it looks ok. This what my attempt at using an oven - 80C for 15 minutes. I tried this before Al's and Andy's advice. I thought that when balanced on top of the rolling pin, the styrene would just head down because it's softer and because of gravity. In fact it curled up like a two day old sandwich! Then I had another go at Mike's technique. I found an embossing insert that was slightly smaller than Mikes that's made to fit Exacto knives and started rubbing. The ruler was taped to some graph paper because I'm not very good at keeping things parallel (which in a previous life meant that I had problems building fences). Anyway, this is what I've come up with. I'm thinking that a quick sand and the ridges should be sorted. The first time I tried to glue the curved sheet to the formers the whole lot seemed to get twisted, so the second time I just put glue at the very top of the arch, and then weighed everything down. This time there's not nearly so much twisting. The roof is slightly up in the middle at the bottom, but this edge hasn't been glued yet, so that should come good. As you can see the roof is a bit higher than the ends, but buggrit, the original plan calls for something similar to barge boards on the end, so I'll make them slightly bigger than the actual ends and this should deal with the slight gap. And the carriage really is that colour! Needs a bit of toning down. Just need to get the roof furniture on first, then I'll start practicing the paint job. Again, thanks everyone. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrg Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Mike Trice's RMWeb articles on teak colouring and weathering may be helpful Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now